Contribution of cosmetic ingredients and skin care textures to emotions / Alicia Roso in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 262-283 Titre : Contribution of cosmetic ingredients and skin care textures to emotions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alicia Roso, Auteur ; Arnaud Aubert, Auteur ; Sophie Cambos, Auteur ; Francis Vial, Auteur ; Julia Schäfer, Auteur ; Marielle Belin, Auteur ; Damien Gabriel, Auteur ; Cécile Bize, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 262-283 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Emollients Emotions -- Mesure Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Ingrédients cosmétiques Polymères Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Emotions play an important role in consumers' perception of a sensory experience. The objective of this work was to investigate the ability of basic skin care formulas (i.e. without interference of odour, colour and packaging) and pillar ingredients (i.e. emollients and rheology modifiers) to elicit emotions. Another objective was to track, as claimed by neurocosmetics, the possible effect of formulas to trigger emotions from their direct biochemical effects on the skin. - Methods : Standard methodologies were mobilized, combining subjective and behavioural parameters (i.e. verbatim, prosody and gesture). Sense and Story methodology based on a collection of metaphoric verbatim was conducted after an induction phase. In addition, an experimental electrophysiological real-time visualization method was tried as a first experience in cosmetics. Finally, the ability of formulations with emotional benefits to modulate the release of neuropeptides by sensory neurons was evaluated on a 3D human model (epidermis co-cultured with sensory neurons). - Results : Skin care formulas were shown to play a role in emotional potential and the types of emotion generated, while changing one ingredient mostly acted on the intensity of the emotions. Verbatim provided contrasted answers depending on the protocol, highlighting the interest of non-verbal approaches to detect subtle effects. The in vitro model substantiated physiological effects of skin care formulas with emotional potential on human skin sensory neuron activity. - Conclusion : Emotions were impacted by the change in ingredients and were better captured through non-verbal methods. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Emotions : Definition and characterization - Emotions and cosmetics, summary from formulations to ingredients - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Tested formulations and ingredients - Methodologies to characterize emotions - RESULTS : Effects of formulation textures - Effects of ingredients - DISCUSSION : Impact of formulation texture on emotions—Skin care universe - Influence of ingredients on emotions - Learning, methodological improvements and perspectives DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12928 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1v9HnfqWB1tJ7hIDhPN1nvB0fOl-PLmcK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40911 [article]

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