An eco-friendly system for stabilization of retinol : A step towards attending performance with improved environmental respect / Huey Mei Wang Pamella in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023) . - p. 581-591 Titre : An eco-friendly system for stabilization of retinol : A step towards attending performance with improved environmental respect Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Huey Mei Wang Pamella, Auteur ; Mickael Agach, Auteur ; Majolie Libii, Auteur ; Stéphan Chonez, Auteur ; Sébastien Gregoire, Auteur ; Brittany Lee, Auteur ; Jean-Thierry Simonnet, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 581-591 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biodégradation Chimie analytique Chimie écologique Formulation (Génie chimique) Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Ingrédients cosmétiques Stabilisants (chimie) Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie) Vitamine A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Retinol (Vitamin A) is one of the most effective molecules for the treatment of skin aging. However, it degrades rapidly under the influence of light, oxygen, metal ions, and oxidizing agents. To prevent this, stabilizing systems are used commonly. Notably, butylated hydroxytoluene (2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol) (BHT) and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) salts exhibit excellent antioxidant and metal-chelating properties but are not eco-friendly. In this study, our goal was to develop a new eco-friendly stabilization system for retinol-based formulations such that the system does not interfere with retinol skin absorption, nor its clinical efficacy. - Methods : An evaluation tool called the Sustainable Product Optimization Tool (SPOT) was used to assess the environmental performance of formulations containing retinol and the various stabilizers investigated. Accelerated stability tests were performed on formulations stored for 2 months at 4 and 45°C (ISO/TR Standard 18811 2018 directives). Long-term stability evaluation was done on formulations stored for 24-months at room temperature. Retinol skin absorption was assessed by the Franz cell method using human skin explants (OECD guideline 428). Finally, a clinical study was performed to evaluate the cosmetic performance of a 0.3% stabilized retinol formulation. - Results : N,N’-ethylenediamine disuccinic acid ([S,S]-EDDS isomer) and pentaerythritol tetrakis(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate) (PBHC) showed higher biodegradability and a reduced water footprint compared with those of BHT and EDTA. The SPOT simulation gave [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC a score of 10 versus 8.84 for EDTA + BHT. Moreover, [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC better controlled the chemical degradation of retinol compared with EDTA + BHT. Retinol skin absorption was also achieved in the case of a formulation containing [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC, and several skin attributes improved significantly after 12 weeks of product use, with over 75% of the panel perceiving benefits. - Conclusion : Regarding retinol stabilization, the PBHC + [S,S]-EDDS combination is an eco-friendlier and more effective alternative to BHT + EDTA. Note de contenu : - Eco-design of formulations for reaching sustainable goals - New system for stabilizing retinol in formulations - Pentaerythritol 3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate as alternative to BHT - Impact of [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC combination on retinol - METHODS AND MATERIALS : Raw materials - SPOT analysis - Formulation protocol - Stability measurements - Absorption of retinol by skin - Clinical evaluation - RESULTS : Environmental impact of [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC - SPOT score of [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC - Effects of [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC on retinol stability in formulations - Skin absorption of retinol+[S,S]-EDDS + PBHC - Beneficial effects of retinol and [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC on skin En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TmvNNWD2_D2eFvzoZ4-lDwII40w-nOaj/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40079 [article]

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