A guide to hair product testing techniques / Adriana Tomas in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 9 (10/2022)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 9 (10/2022) . - p. 79-83 Titre : A guide to hair product testing techniques Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Adriana Tomas, Auteur ; Ana Carvalheira, Auteur ; Sofia Lopes, Auteur ; Ana Luisa Fonseca, Auteur ; Marta S. Ferreira, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 79-83 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Produits capillaires Qualité -- Contrôle Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The health of human hair plays a crucial role in both male and female appearance, and has a strong psychological and social importance. Beautiful, strong and heatlhy hair is broadly desired. However, hair is highly exposed to harsh factors such as heat, chemical treatments, pollution and watering that can cause damage on the hair physicochemical properties, mainly in the hair cuticle. There is great interest not only in developing products for the protection and recovery of damaged hair, but also in developing effective protocols to investigate the efficacy of innovative hair care products. Claims for cosmetic products, as well as hair care products, are a strategy to obtain successful marketing and promotion. The claims need to be substantiated by efficacy tests, whether they be in vivo, ex vivo or in vitro studies. For high reliability, clinical studies should be designed, conducted, recorded and reported following good clinical practices principles to provide a unified standard for ICH (International Conference on Harmonisation) regions to facilitate the mutual acceptance of clinical data by regulatory authorities. In this article, we present a range of hair testing techniques that can show damage sustained, from the cortex to the hair surface, for both quantitative and/or qualitative techniques. In the interest of better understanding the complexity behind these techniques, it is important to make reference to the hair structure, as well as hair care products and how they act on the hair. This is because the knowledge of these matters will greatly facilitate the understanding of the techniques. Note de contenu : - Hair structure - Hair products - Testing with human hair tresses - Hair care products : ToF-SIMS to evaluate hair surface damage - Optical profilometry to evaluate the hair damage - Split ends evaluation through brightfield microscope and clinical score - Hair strength evaluation with texturometer - Hair styling/enhancement products : Anti-frizz evaluation - Combability evaluation with texturometer - Anti-static efficacy - Final considerations - Fig. 1 : The structure of hair - Table 1 : Ex vivo methodologies to test the effect of hair care products and provide support for substantiating hair care claims En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Z9Xli-GvLByWefgkNYdbxs4ecyyufo3a/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38669 [article]

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Sensitive skin : Active ingredients on the spotlight / Marta S. Ferreira in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 1 (02/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 1 (02/2022) . - p. 56-73 Titre : Sensitive skin : Active ingredients on the spotlight Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Marta S. Ferreira, Auteur ; José M. Sousa Lobo, Auteur ; Isabel F. Almeida, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 56-73 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Allergies Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Justification de l'allégation Peau -- Inflammation Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Sensibilité cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Sensitive skin is characterized by self-reported sensory perceptions in response to stimuli that should not provoke unpleasant sensations. Cosmetic products for sensitive skin are designed to minimize these symptoms. This study aimed to unveil the most used active ingredients for sensitive skin in facial care products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel. - Methods : A pool of products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel whose label included the expressions 'sensitive skin', 'reactive skin' or 'intolerant skin' were analysed. The active ingredients were identified from product compositions and ranked in descending order of occurrence. The scientific evidence regarding the mechanism of action and efficacy of each ingredient was also compiled. - Results : Eighty-eight products from 19 multinational brands were included. Niacinamide leads the top, followed by Avena sativa, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives and Laminaria ochroleuca. Ingredients that can reduce skin inflammation and act on the skin barrier were used in more than half of the products analysed. The clinical studies regarding the active ingredients used in these products remain sparse and lack methodological quality. Among the top ingredients, niacinamide, panthenol and acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester were the only ones studied on volunteers having sensitive skin, while acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester and palmitoyl tripeptide-8 were designed to act on the molecular targets involved in this condition. - Conclusion : This study reveals the most used active ingredients in cosmetic products for sensitive skin, as well as the scientific evidence supporting their efficacy and the mechanisms of action. This insight is meaningful for dermatologists and other health professionals to provide customized advice based on the symptomatology of individuals with sensitive skin, and for the formulation of cosmetic products and design of new active ingredients. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Data collection - Data analysis - Ingredient use and combinations - Top ingredients for sensitive skin - Scientific evidence of active ingredients for sensitive skin - Mechanisms of action - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Ingredient use and combinations - Top ingredients for sensitive skin - Scientific evidence of active ingredients for sensitive skin - Mechanisms of action - Table 1 : Active ingredients found at INCI lists from analysed products for sensitive skin and their relative usage - Table 2 : Summary of the top ingredients used for sensitive skin DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12754 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pXO_8nSog6e-XzSdmHiEgsVN2oDohzTp/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37266 [article]

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