Safety and efficacy of combined essential oils for the skin barrier properties : In vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies / Victor H. P. Infante in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 1 (02/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 1 (02/2022) . - p. 118-130 Titre : Safety and efficacy of combined essential oils for the skin barrier properties : In vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Victor H. P. Infante, Auteur ; Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos, Auteur ; Lorena Rigo Gaspar, Auteur ; Maxim E. Darvin, Auteur ; Johannes Schleusener, Auteur ; Karen C. Rangel, Auteur ; Martina C. Meinke, Auteur ; Jürgen Lademann, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 118-130 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Huiles essentielles -- Analyse Peau -- analyse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pénétration (physique) Produits de beauté Spectroscopie Raman Tests de toxicité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To evaluate the safety and the synergistic effects of tea tree, lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine essential oils in combination on the skin using in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies. - Methods : The phototoxicity was predicted using 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxicity test (OECD TG 432). Skin penetration was evaluated by confocal Raman microspectroscopy using direct application of essential oils to pig ears. For the clinical studies, 40 participants were enrolled and randomized in three groups: (1) lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine, (2) the same essential oils plus melaleuca and (3) placebo group. The skin was evaluated by noninvasive techniques before and after a 90-day period of topical use. - Results : The essential oils were non-phototoxic, but the tangerine oil showed dose-dependent cytotoxicity (IC50: 33.1 µg/ml), presenting 35% of penetration in the viable epidermis. On the contrary, 17.7 µg/ml in combination was applied per day in the clinical study and the penetration rate for the combinations (10%, 1.77 µg/ml achieving the viable epidermis) guaranteed the safety, since in the clinical study, the application of the four essential oils improved skin barrier and morphologic skin characteristics, as well as increased skin hydration and decreased sebum levels, with no unwanted effects reported. - Conclusions : All essential oils studied were considered non-cytotoxic or non-phototoxic separately except tangerine, which present a dose-dependent cytotoxicity. Finally, the essential oils in combination in an appropriate amount were safe and effective in the improvement of the hydrolipidic balance and morphological properties of the skin. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Developed formulations - Photoxicity evaluation - Confocal raman microspectroscopy - Clinical study - Stratum corneum water content - Transepidermal water loss - Sebum content of the skin surface - Amount of sebum in the infundibulum - Reflectance confocal microscopy - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Phototoxicity - Skin penetration - Skin hydration –SCWC, TEWL and sebum amount - Reflectance confocal microscopy - DISCUSSION : In vitro and ex vivo studies - In vivo efficacy study - Table 1 : Phototoxicity assay of essential oils and their combinations in 3T3 fibroblast cells, expressed as mean photoeffect (MPE; n = 2) - Table 2 : Epidermal thickness measured by RCM, according to group and time of usage DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12761 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1StU_2jXH8mIwzoWr0S8n1fzozbk0cTQp/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37264 [article]

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