Barrier disruption, dehydration and inflammation : Investigation of the vicious circle underlying dry skin / Cécile Bize in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 729-737 Titre : Barrier disruption, dehydration and inflammation : Investigation of the vicious circle underlying dry skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Cécile Bize, Auteur ; Erwan Le Gelebart, Auteur ; Alain Moga, Auteur ; Bruno Payré, Auteur ; Christine Garcia, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 729-737 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Inflammation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Sécheresse cutanée Une xérose est un dessèchement de la peau. Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments. Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Many endogenous or exogenous factors, isolated or combined, can trigger dry skin disorder, leading to a water/lipids-depleted stratum corneum concomitant with uncomfortable rough and scaly skin surface. In a defensive reaction, the alteration of the skin barrier stimulates the production of cytokines to initiate homeostasis restoration but this can also induce an inflammatory response that further weakens the barrier. The two phenomena intertwining one another lead to the creation of a vicious circle, here called Inflamm'dryness, that maintains dry skin state. It is thus very important to investigate biological mechanisms involved in Inflamm'dryness to better manage dry skin. - Methods : A 3D model mimicking dry skin has been developed. Adjustment of tape stripping level allowed to reproduce skin barrier alterations and resulting inflammation involved in dry skin. The effect of Helichrysum stoechas extract on this downward spiral was then investigated to validate the concept. - Results : Tape-stripping permitted to successively remove the cell layers of the stratum corneum: the barrier function was altered and skin was inflamed creating a vicious circle, mimicking very dry skin prone to Inflamm'dryness. Helichrysum stoechas extract was not only able to resolve inflammation but also to reverse concurrently adverse tape-stripping effects and imparted significant structural and functional recovery of the barrier (e.g. on NMF and ceramides levels, TEWL, tissue organization). - Conclusion : This 3D model reproduces Inflamm'dryness vicious circle present in dry skin and highlights the importance of breaking this process to improve dry skin conditions. Helichrysum stoechas extract is a promising active ingredient for the management of dry skin. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Helichrysum stoechas extract - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Inflamm'dryness 3D model - Helichrysum stoechas extract breaks the vicious circle of Inflamm'dryness - Table 1 : Evolution of skin barrier and inflammation markers DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12748 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GSbf9XzqmBbg_WiO611oAsLfiSZBO-gV/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37053 [article]

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Efficacy of a wheat polar lipid complex in reducing hair loss and improving hair growth in healthy women : A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study / Stéphanie Dudonné in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 284-296 Titre : Efficacy of a wheat polar lipid complex in reducing hair loss and improving hair growth in healthy women : A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stéphanie Dudonné, Auteur ; Catherine Kern, Auteur ; Christine Garcia, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 284-296 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Croissance Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Dermo-pharmacie Justification de l'allégation Nutricosmétique Produits capillaires Sphingolipides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Hair loss is a major source of psychological distress for affected people. Safe and natural ingredients are therefore needed to help reduce hair loss and stimulate hair growth. This pilot clinical study aimed at exploring the efficacy of a wheat polar lipid complex (WPLC, Ceramosidesâ„¢), containing sphingolipids and digalactosyl diglycerides, on hair characteristics improvement in women showing acute hair shedding. - Methods : Sixty-six women presenting a proportion of hair in the telogen phase greater than 15% were recruited and allocated to two groups, each including at least 10 postmenopausal women. For 84 days, participants consumed 30 mg/day of the WPLC supplement, or the placebo. Their hair characteristics were assessed after 56 and 84 days using phototrichogram evaluations of hairs in anagen/telogen phases, measuring hair shedding by a pull test, hair diameter and elongation at break point, hair growth and scalp sebum content. Hair density and volume were also clinically evaluated. All these parameters were also investigated in the subgroup of postmenopausal women. - Results : WPLC supplementation decreased telogen hair density/proportion while increasing the anagen hair density/proportion. These effects were significant compared with the placebo as early as within 56 days. It also led to reduced hair shedding upon pull test analyses. If no changes were evidenced in hair diameter, WPLC improved hair growth and resistance to breakage after 84 days. Clinical evaluations also showed hair density and volume improvement. Furthermore, supplementation decreased scalp sebum content in women with oily hair. The beneficial effects were also observed in the subgroup of postmenopausal women. Finally, WPLC supplementation improved participants' perception of their hair conditions. - Conclusion : Through a reducing effect on hair shedding and a stimulating effect on hair reappearance and growth, WPLC dietary supplementation was shown to significantly reduce hair loss in women. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Study design and ethics - Intervention - Participants - Compliance of participants to the treatment - Outcome assessment - Phototrichogram analyses - Pull test - Hair diameter and elongation - Hair growth - Scalp sebum content - Clinical evaluation - Self-assessment questionnaire - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Study participants - Effects of WPLC supplementation on telogen and anagen parameters - Effects of WPLC supplementation on the number of hairs tugged upon pull test - Effects of WPLC supplementation on hair characteristics and growth - Effects of WPLC supplementation on clinically evaluated hair improvement - Effects of WPLC supplementation on scalp sebum content - Effects of WPLC supplementation on hair characteristics of postmenopausal women - Self-assessment questionnaire DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12929 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oYLVEV9AjenjQJAjchRvNetRHbN6IkOX/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40912 [article]

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