Targeted dry skin treatment using a multifunctional topical moisturizer / Hans Stettler in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 191-200 Titre : Targeted dry skin treatment using a multifunctional topical moisturizer Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Hans Stettler, Auteur ; Jonathan M. Crowther, Auteur ; Marianne Brandt, Auteur ; Bailu Lu, Auteur ; Alison Boxshall, Auteur ; Raffaella de Salvo, Auteur ; Sabrina Laing, Auteur ; Natascha Hennighausen, Auteur ; Stephan Bielfeldt, Auteur ; Peter Blenkiron, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 191-200 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale Barrière cutanée Biotechnologie Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Sécheresse cutanée Une xérose est un dessèchement de la peau. Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The development of dry skin is a complex process, with a wide variety of factors each playing different roles in its evolution. Given this, it is important when designing a formulation to tackle dry skin that these varied aspects of skin behaviour are addressed. Presented here are the results of a 3-week moisturization study carried out on dry legs. A wide range of traditional and more recently developed biophysical measurement methods have been combined with visual assessment of skin condition to enable multiple aspects of skin function to be determined. The observed changes in the skin are discussed in terms of the ingredients used in the moisturizing formulation. - Methods : A range of novel and traditional skin assessment methods and techniques were used to assess the effects of an oil in water-based moisturizing product compared to an untreated site during a 3-week in vivo study on dry lower leg skin. Results : Statistically significant improvements were observed in a range of skin parameters as a result of product usage. Skin hydration assessed using Corneometer®, Epsilon® and visual dry skin grading all increased after 3 weeks of use. Skin barrier function measured using transepidermal water loss also improved. Levels of cholesterol, free fatty acids and Ceramide NH increased, as well as the average length of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid lamella bilayers, and the ratio of lipid to protein increased (measured using Lipbarvis® and in vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy). Increases in the levels of Ceramide EOS and NP were also observed, along with an improvement in corneocyte maturity, although these were not statistically significant. - Conclusions : Using a variety of traditional and novel skin assessment techniques, a wide range of factors associated with the evolution of dry skin have been assessed upon treatment with a new topical moisturizer. Product usage resulted in significant improvements to skin hydration and barrier function, the levels and morphology of SC barrier lipids, and overall epidermal differentiation. As a result there was a significant reduction in the characteristics associated with the development of dry skin after use of the test product. Note de contenu : - Table 1 : Differences to baseline and between the treated and untreated sites for the hydration measures and assessments throughout the study (Week 1, 2 and 3 – W1, W2 and W3). Also shown are the differences between the treated and untreated sites. Statistical differences (paired t-test) with >95% significance are shown in bold - Table 2 : Differences to baseline and between the treated and untreated sites at the end of Week 3 for SC barrier function, Confocal Raman Spectroscopy parameters (SC/SD thickness and lipid to protein ratio), Lipbarvis ® SC lipid levels and lamella bilayer length, and corneocyte maturity. Also shown are the differences between the treated and untreated sites at the end of the study. Data given to 2 decimal points where available. Statistical differences (paired t-test) with >95% significance are shown in bold DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12680 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/16ul5o2NCoj5vS5-XOLrJeC2z8AmYkWKz/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35762 [article]

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