Contribution of cosmetic ingredients and skin care textures to emotions / Alicia Roso in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 262-283 Titre : Contribution of cosmetic ingredients and skin care textures to emotions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alicia Roso, Auteur ; Arnaud Aubert, Auteur ; Sophie Cambos, Auteur ; Francis Vial, Auteur ; Julia Schäfer, Auteur ; Marielle Belin, Auteur ; Damien Gabriel, Auteur ; Cécile Bize, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 262-283 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Emollients Emotions -- Mesure Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Ingrédients cosmétiques Polymères Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Emotions play an important role in consumers' perception of a sensory experience. The objective of this work was to investigate the ability of basic skin care formulas (i.e. without interference of odour, colour and packaging) and pillar ingredients (i.e. emollients and rheology modifiers) to elicit emotions. Another objective was to track, as claimed by neurocosmetics, the possible effect of formulas to trigger emotions from their direct biochemical effects on the skin. - Methods : Standard methodologies were mobilized, combining subjective and behavioural parameters (i.e. verbatim, prosody and gesture). Sense and Story methodology based on a collection of metaphoric verbatim was conducted after an induction phase. In addition, an experimental electrophysiological real-time visualization method was tried as a first experience in cosmetics. Finally, the ability of formulations with emotional benefits to modulate the release of neuropeptides by sensory neurons was evaluated on a 3D human model (epidermis co-cultured with sensory neurons). - Results : Skin care formulas were shown to play a role in emotional potential and the types of emotion generated, while changing one ingredient mostly acted on the intensity of the emotions. Verbatim provided contrasted answers depending on the protocol, highlighting the interest of non-verbal approaches to detect subtle effects. The in vitro model substantiated physiological effects of skin care formulas with emotional potential on human skin sensory neuron activity. - Conclusion : Emotions were impacted by the change in ingredients and were better captured through non-verbal methods. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Emotions : Definition and characterization - Emotions and cosmetics, summary from formulations to ingredients - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Tested formulations and ingredients - Methodologies to characterize emotions - RESULTS : Effects of formulation textures - Effects of ingredients - DISCUSSION : Impact of formulation texture on emotions—Skin care universe - Influence of ingredients on emotions - Learning, methodological improvements and perspectives DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12928 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1v9HnfqWB1tJ7hIDhPN1nvB0fOl-PLmcK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40911 [article]

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Positive impact of emulsifiers on end-user skin benefits / Sophie Cambos in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020) . - p. 28-33 Titre : Positive impact of emulsifiers on end-user skin benefits Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sophie Cambos, Auteur ; Alicia Roso, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 28-33 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Agent mattant Analyse quantitative (chimie) Cornéométrie Couche cornée Emulsifiants Evaluation Hydratation Ingrédients cosmétiques Métaux lourds Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eau Rugosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The aim of this study was to investigate the contribution of two oil-in-water emulsifiers with long C20-22 fatty chains to skin benefits for end-users, from minimalist emulsions compared to the appropriate reference. Complementary evaluations were conducted, using classical measurements such as corneometry for moisturizing effect, dosage of heavy metals in skin stripping to measure potential protection from pollution, advanced spectroscopy, and the latest visualization imaging technology to evaluate effects on the skin surface, such as potential skin roughness or mattifying properties. A second part was dedicated to better understanding the mechanism of action of each emulsifier by exploring what happens to the emulsion after application using scanning microscopy or X-Ray microdiffraction : does the formulation have film-forming properties? What is the interaction of the emulsion with the stratum corneum? The results demonstrated different benefits according to the emulsifier structure and pointed out their interest versus reference emulsifiers. The anionic structure forms a matte film which increases water resistance and protects the skin from atmospheric pollutants. The non-ionic structure strengthens the skin barrier by gently inserting itself within the stratum corneum lipid lamellar structure, resulting in reduced skin roughness and increased moisturisation up to five hours after application. Note de contenu : - METHODOLOGY : O/W emulsion compositions testes - Evaluation methods - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : C20-22 non-ionic emulsifier - C20-22 anionic emulsifier - Table 1 : Tested emulsions with non-ionic emulsifier - Fig. 1 : Corneometry evolution over time - Fig. 2 : Skin roughness index - Fig. 3 : X-ray microdiffraction intensity profiles - Fig. 4 : Interaction of C20-22 non-ionic emulsifier with the stratum corneum - Fig. 5 : Water resistance effect - Fig. 6 : SEM-FEG images of the film formed by emulsion containing anionic emulsifier - Fig. 7 : Film mattifying effect in-vivo - Fig. 8 : Heavy metal dosage in skin strips after exposure to polluted atmosphere En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1enLRlbOFY4gM_1HMCO6Y5ZuLqejWsMBW/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34618 [article]

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