Combining sensory and texturometer parameters to characterize different type of cosmetic ingredients / Gisely Sposito Vieira in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 156-166 Titre : Combining sensory and texturometer parameters to characterize different type of cosmetic ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gisely Sposito Vieira, Auteur ; Marc Lavarde, Auteur ; Viannay Fréville, Auteur ; Pedro Alves Rocha-Filho, Auteur ; Anne-Marie Pensé-Lhéritier, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 156-166 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Amidons Analyse sensorielle Beurre de karité Glycols Un glycol ou diol est un composé chimique organique portant deux groupes hydroxyle (-OH). Lorsque les deux groupes hydroxyle sont portés par le même atome de carbone, on parle de diol géminal. Parmi ceux-ci, on compte par exemple le méthanediol (H2C(OH)2) ou le 1,1,1,3,3,3-hexafluoropropane-2,2-diol ((F3C)2C(OH)2), la forme hydratée de l'hexafluoroacétone. On parle de diol vicinal lorsque les deux groupes hydroxyle sont en position vicinale, c'est-à-dire attachés à des atomes de carbone adjacents. On compte parmi ceux-ci l'éthane-1,2-diol ou éthylène glycol (HO-(CH2)2-OH), un composant courant des produits antigels ou le propane-1,2-diol (propylène glycol, HO-CH2-CH(OH)-CH3). Parmi les composés avec des groupes hydroxyles bien plus éloignés on compte le butane-1,4-diol (HO-(CH2)4-OH) ou encore le bisphénol A. Huiles et graisses Ingrédients cosmétiques Statistique Texturants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - INTRODUCTION : Sensory properties have a great importance for cosmetics and personal care products. If literature permits to consult articles comparing different formulations on their sensory attributes, there are only a few articles concerning ingredients. - OBJECTIVE : The overall objective of this study was to carry out an original study combining the sensory evaluation of different natures of ingredients, in order to initiate a sensory data set that could help researchers to identify differentiating sensory characteristics, as well as initiating a comparison between sensory data and texturometer instrumental measurements. - METHODS : Oils, glycolic extracts, butter and starch were evaluated according to descriptive sensory analysis methodology with the help of panel of 25 experts. In order to compare responses obtained from the panel to instrumental measurements, texture analyzes were performed in compression traction model. - RESULTS : Significant differences were detected in ten of the eleven evaluated sensory attributes, indicating that ingredients have distinct sensory profiles. The mainly discriminative attributes for the analyzed ingredients were : gloss, opacity, fluidity, freshness, whitening and oily residue. The oils are mostly related to oily residue and slipperiness while extracts are mostly related to gloss, fluidity and freshness attributes. Both Tapioca Starch and Shea Butter were related to non‐fluidity, opacity, and Tapioca Starch was related to freshness too. This study was completed by a texturometer analysis which lead to show the opposite correlation between the sensory attribute fluidity and the consistent index. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : The panel - Descriptive sensory analysis - Instrumental analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Descriptive sensory analysis - Glycolic extracts - Instrumental analysis DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12598 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZI2dBuJtMrvAAHGIf37kOEI0Bu8i7ZyB/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34506 [article]

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