Optimisation of process parameters of Alpaca wool printing with Juglans regia natural dye / Martinia Glogar in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020)

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 188-201 Titre : Optimisation of process parameters of Alpaca wool printing with Juglans regia natural dye Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martinia Glogar, Auteur ; Josipa Tancik, Auteur ; Iva Briek, Auteur ; Ana Sutlovic, Auteur ; Marijana Tkalec, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 188-201 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alpaga Analyse spectrale Colorants végétaux Epaississants Essais dynamiques Extraction (chimie) Impression sur étoffes Laine Microscopie Mordançage (teinture) Pâtes d'impression Photostabilité Résistance à l'abrasion Résistance au lavage Rhéologie Sérigraphie Solidité de la couleur Sulfate de fer Textiles et tissus -- Propriétés mécaniques Textiles et tissus imprimés Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : The aim of this research study was to optimise the process parameters of Alpaca wool hand‐knitted samples screen‐printing with Juglans regia natural dye and to set the optimal conditions regarding colour yield, colour fastness and colouristic properties of printed samples. An extensive preliminary examination of the Alpaca woollen yarn and hand‐knitted samples characteristics, the characteristics of suitable thickeners and the optimisation of the printing paste composition, was performed. A starch‐based thickener, British Gum, with a dry matter content of 4% was selected due to its rheological properties responding to properties of the Alpaca yarn and knitwear. It was determined that the fluidity increases while the viscosity and the elasticity decrease in acidic pH, so a pH of 4 was set for the thickener preparation. The thickener of lower viscosity and higher fluidity assures easier pressing of printing paste through the screen, giving uniform colour yield on the substrate, contributing to easier absorption of dyes into the fibre. A 45‐minute fixing process at 105°C by steaming delivered the best results of printing quality. Iron sulphate was used as the mordanting agent. The colour fastness to washing, dry and wet rubbing, and to light, was tested for samples with and without mordanting. The highest light and washing fastness were obtained with the iron sulphate mordanting agent printed in acid (pH 4) with paste containing 4% dry matter‐based thickener. The rubbing fastness was satisfactory for samples with iron sulphate printed with paste containing 4% dry matter thickener, fixed for 45 minutes, regardless of the pH. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Mechanical and physical yarn and knitwear properties - Dyestuff extraction - Identification of colouring compound - Thickener selection and rheological properties analyses printing paste preparation - Printing, fixing and washing - Microscopic and spectrophotometric analyses - Colour fastness - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Mechanical and physical yarn and knitwear properties - Thickener rheological properties analyses - FTIR and UV-VIS spectroscopy analysis - Printing and printed samples analysis DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12462 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34238 [article]

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