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Retinoids : is there a new approach ? / Christos C. Zouboulis in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 3, N° 3 (07-08-09/2000)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 3, N° 3 (07-08-09/2000) . - p. 9-17 Titre : Retinoids : is there a new approach ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Christos C. Zouboulis, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 9-17 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Peau -- Soins et hygiène Rétinoïdes Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Retinoids include nowadays both naturally occurring molecules and synthetic compounds showing specific biological activities resembling those of vitamin A. They affect cell growth and differentiation as well as the synthetic activity of specialized cells (e.g. sebum and collagen synthesis) and possess immunomodulatory and anti-inflammatory properties. Retinoids are supposed to exhibit their activity by regulating the transcription of genes bearing retinoid-responsive elements in their promoter region. This interaction occurs with retinoids bound to the nuclear receptor proteins RARs and RXRs. The expression of retinoid receptors is tissue specific ; skin mainly expresses RARγ and RXRα. Systemic retinoids are currently used in the treatment of several diseases, including severe inflammatory acne, sebaceous hyperplasia and seborrhea (isotretinoin). Topical retinoids are rapidly developing being applied to treat or prevent acne, aging, photodamage, psoriasis, precanceroses, skin cancer and disorders of skin pigmentation (e.g. tretinoin, isotretinoin, retinaldehyde, retinoyl glucoronide, alitretinoin, motretinide, adapalene, tazarotene). They are also included in cosmetic preparations (e.g. retinyl esters, vitamin A). Chronic topical application of retinoids reprograms some aspects of human epidermal differentiation in vivo. The major adverse effect of retinoids is tetragenicity making contraception essential during systemic retinoid treatment in women of child-bearing age. Current retinoid research targets the identification of genes regulated by retinoids, the development of receptor-selective retinoids for tailoring and/or improving their therapeutic profile, the elucidation of the mode of action of compounds which exhibit low binding affinity for retinoids receptors, and the understanding of the physiological activity of new families of retinoids, such as the neutral antagonists and the inverse agonists. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10803 [article]

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Polymeric ester technology - an effective delivery concept for sun and skin care / D. Smith in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 3, N° 3 (07-08-09/2000)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 3, N° 3 (07-08-09/2000) . - p. 21-30 Titre : Polymeric ester technology - an effective delivery concept for sun and skin care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : D. Smith, Auteur ; A. O'Connor, Auteur ; D. Young, Auteur ; R. Siegfried, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 21-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Polyesters Produits antisolaires Tags : 'Alpha  hydroxy  acids'  Desquamation  'Gas  chromatography'  Sunscreens  'Topical  delivery  system'  Dihydroxyacetone  'Skin  whiteners'  Hydroquinone  'Lactic  acid' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Several years ago we discovered that polyesters mitigate skin penetration of organic UV absorbers. Our initial research explored the effect of polyester structure on its’ ability to focus and maintain organic UV absorbers in the outer stratum corneum (SC) of skin. Delivery technologies that can mitigate skin penetration of UV absorbers, as polyester technology has been proven to do, are of interest to formulators and marketers of sunscreens. Current market trends favor products with SPF ratings above 15 and the inclusion of UV absorbers in “daily-wear” products, increasing both the level and duration of exposure to UV absorbers. Clinical studies that the Personal Care Application Group had commissioned with sunscreen actives, indicated that polyesters facilitate retention of up to 95% of applied organic UV absorbers in-vivo. Polyesters have also been shown to increase the solubility of oxybenzone, improve coupling of actives, and enhance SPF efficiency and effectiveness. Through our research, we were able to gain a better understanding of the relationship between polyester structure and skin penetration. With this knowledge, we gained ability to design and synthesize polyesters into which specific polarity actives could partition. The next phase of our research focused on screening and optimizing polyesters to maximize benefits derived from the application of water-soluble active ingredients, such as alpha hydroxy acids. Hydroxy acids are generally thought to improve the appearance of skin via reduction in corneocyte adhesion leading to accelerated exfoliation and an increase rate of SC cell renewal. Effectiveness of hydroxyl acids could be maximized if distributed and maintained throughout the entire SC. By maintaining hydroxyl acids in the SC, contact with viable cells in the dermis is minimized, thereby reducing their potential for sensory stinging and irritation. We found that with the incorporation of polyesters, a reduced level of AHA can be utilized with efficacy of the hydroxyl acid maintained, thereby lowering the irritation potential attributed by the hydroxy acid. For the AHA research, a series of polyesters with varied structural characteristics were formulated in emulsions containing the hydroxy acid, lactic acid. The effect of these formulations on human skin was examined in-vivo using a comparative cytology method determining the change in squamous cell size at weekly intervals over twenty-eight days. Results indicate specific polyesters are useful in optimizing and sustaining delivery of lactic acid. Preliminary panels studies suggest that polyesters also reduce the potential for lactic acid to sting and cause irritation. Other hydrophilic actives were our polyester technology. A preliminary investigation was also conducted on the ability of polyesters to enhance delivery to dihydroxyacetone ( DHA), which is the most widely used sunless tanning ingredient. These experiments suggest that the color persistence and color intensity attributed to DHA is enhanced when used in combination with specific, select polyesters. Hydrophilic skin whitening activities are a popular market trend, and were also investigated with our polyester technology. The two skin whitening actives utilized for our studies were hydroquinone and lactic acid. Lactic acid has been found to elicit a skin whitening response. Clinical in-vivo panel tests were conducted to access the ability of the polyesters to enhance the performance attributed by these skin-whitening agents. Based on the results of the AHA, DHA, and skin whitening experiments, coupled with the ability to synthesize polyesters with regard to an active ingredient’s solubility parameters, polyesters have proven to be effective controlled delivery systems for hydrophilic as well as lipophilic actives. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Evaluation of lipophilic sunscreen actives with polyesters - Evaluation of hydrophilic actives with polyesters - Formulas used in comparative cytology method for AHA performance criteria - Conduct of panel for comparative cytology study - Test formulations used in dihydroxyacetone (DHA) study - Skin whitening test formulations - Hydroquinone test formulation - Lactic acid skin whitening formulation - Conduct of hydroquinone skin whitening study. - RESULTS : Polyesters with lipophilic organic sunscreen actives - Polyesters with hydrophilic actives - Skin whitening study with hydroquinone - Skin lightening with lactic acid. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10806 [article]

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Photoaging inhibition by skin care products / K; Motoyoshi in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 3, N° 3 (07-08-09/2000)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 3, N° 3 (07-08-09/2000) . - p. 31-38 Titre : Photoaging inhibition by skin care products Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : K; Motoyoshi, Auteur ; Y. Ohara, Auteur ; N. Ando, Auteur ; H. Imai, Auteur ; J. Suzuki, Auteur ; H. Oshima, Auteur ; M. Takenouchi, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 31-38 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Peau -- Effet du rayonnement ultraviolet Peau -- Effets du rayonnement solaire Peau -- Soins et hygiène Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : “Darkening of facial skin” known as “kusumi” in Japan is a phenomenon characterized by darkening of skin color and very fine wrinkle, and is thought to be a precursor symptom of photoaging. There are two methods to prevent “darkening of the skin” and photoaging ; the use of sunscreens products and the use of skin care products. The aim of the study was to research and develop an optimal skin care product that would protect the skin from “darkening of the skin” and photoaging without the use of synthetic organic sunscreen agents or powders. We therefore selected, from among the many natural Chinese herbs, two (extracts of Betula pendula and Engelhardtia chrysolepsis HANCE) that both contained potent anti-inflammatory and antioxidation properties, and prepared a combination cream of the two extracts. Results of long-term application showed the cream was effective in improving skin color and skin texture, and it thereby improved “darkening of the skin”. This cream has been supplied to many customers for actual use, and its effectiveness in improving “darkening of the skin” has been acclaimed on the market. Improving “darkening of the skin” means that existing skin not only become lighter, but it also leads to the prevention of future photoaging. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Lipid peroxidation inhibition test - Test of the inhibition of Erythema due to UV light - Test of surface melanin uniformity - Test to measure the effectiveness in improving skin color - Test to measure improvement in skin texture and color. Usage test. - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Measurement of effectiveness in inhibiting lipid peroxidations - Test of inhibition of erytheman due to UV light - Test to measure surface melanin uniformity - Test measuring the effectiveness in improving skin color - Test measuring improvement in skin texture and skin tone - Determination of UV-absorbance of the extracts of BP and ECH. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10807 [article]

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Correlation of AFM/LFM with Combing Forces of Human Hair / Roger L. McMullen in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 3, N° 3 (07-08-09/2000)  

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 3, N° 3 (07-08-09/2000) . - p. 39-45 Titre : Correlation of AFM/LFM with Combing Forces of Human Hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Roger L. McMullen, Auteur ; Janusz Jachowicz, Auteur ; Stephen P. Kelty, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 39-45 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A comparative study is presented of dry combing forces measured with a Miniature Tensile Tester and micron-scale frictional forces measured using Normal and Lateral Force Microscopy of virgin and treated human hair. Topographic images of the fibers show the presence of small pores, which become increasingly prevalent upon solvent extraction. The pores appear to attract cationic polymers. Friction images show surface variations that are interpreted as areas of varying lipid film coverage. Friction image analysis indicates a good correlation of image data and combing forces as measured with a modified Miniature Tensile Tester. En ligne : http://online1.ispcorp.com/en-US/Media/Articles/Correlation%20of%20AFM-LFM%20wit [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10819 [article]

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Efficacy testing of cosmetics and other topical products / Marie Lodén in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 3, N° 3 (07-08-09/2000)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 3, N° 3 (07-08-09/2000) . - p. 47-53 Titre : Efficacy testing of cosmetics and other topical products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marie Lodén, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 47-53 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Produits de beauté Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Increased attention has been focused on the objective evaluation of cosmetics to improve the performance of cosmetics and to fulfill the requirements in the European legislation demanding proof of certain product claims (The Council of the European Communities 1993). The following is an effort to provide some insights into the methodologies of efficacy studies which may facilitate establishing a valid study design, analysis and report. Clear language, accurate observations and reliance on evidence rather than on speculation are believed to enhance consumer confidence in cosmetics and be in the best interests of the cosmetic industry. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Target areas for cosmetics - Improvement of cosmetics and claim substantiation - Study objectives. - MEASURING METHODS : Evaluation by humans (Consumers, trained assessor, tests subjects) - Non-invasive measurements - Outcome variables and relevance of the response - Measuring scales. - STUDY DESIGN : Controls - Randomisation, treatment and compliance. - TEST SUBJECTS AND ETHICAL REQUIREMENTS - DATA TREATMENT AND STATISTICS Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10820 [article]

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Latin American Cosmetic Regulation / Lucio E. Laserna in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 3, N° 3 (07-08-09/2000)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 3, N° 3 (07-08-09/2000) . - p. 55-56 Titre : Latin American Cosmetic Regulation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lucio E. Laserna, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 55-56 Langues : Anglais (eng) Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10821 [article]

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