Changes in epidermal morphology associated with dandruff / Jennifer E. Pople in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019) . - p. 357-363 Titre : Changes in epidermal morphology associated with dandruff Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jennifer E. Pople, Auteur ; R. K. Bhogal, Auteur ; A. E. Moore, Auteur ; G. Jenkins, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 357-363 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Cuir chevelu Epiderme Microbiologie Peau -- Physiologie Pellicules (dermatologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Dandruff is a very common scalp condition characterized by flaking and pruritus usually with no visible signs of inflammation, such as redness and erythema. Dandruff is considered a multifactorial condition with both microbial colonization and host factors such as sebum production thought to play a role. There is evidence of changes in epidermal morphology in the scalp skin of dandruff sufferers, with reports of an increase in mean thickness and more nucleated cell layers. The underlying mechanisms driving these morphological changes are currently unclear. The objective of this study was to fully characterize epidermal morphology in dandruff compared to healthy scalp skin and to evaluate potential mechanisms underlying any changes observed. - Methods : Scalp skin biopsies were taken from 22 healthy female subjects and 21 dandruff sufferers, from both lesional and non-lesional sites. Samples were processed, sectioned and stained using haematoxylin and eosin (H&E). To fully characterize epidermal morphology, measurements were taken of epidermal thickness, the convolution of the dermal-epidermal junction and the depth of epidermal rete ridges. To analyse changes in epidermal proliferation immunohistochemical staining was performed using Ki67, a well-established marker of cell proliferation, and quantified using image analysis. - Results : Histochemical analysis of skin sections revealed that in dandruff lesional samples, the epidermis was thicker, had a more convoluted dermal epidermal junction and the rete ridges were elongated, compared to healthy scalp skin. Similar directional changes in epidermal morphology, were observed in non-lesional dandruff samples, albeit to a lesser extent. Image analysis of Ki67 expression in the epidermis revealed dandruff lesional skin contained significantly more Ki67-positive proliferating keratinocytes than healthy controls samples. This suggests dandruff scalp skin epidermal keratinocytes are in a hyper-proliferative state. - Conclusion : There were significant changes in epidermal morphology in dandruff lesional skin compared to healthy scalp skin including increased epidermal thickness, a more convoluted dermal-epidermal junction and elongation of rete ridges. Interestingly, we found there was evidence of an increase in the percentage of epidermal Ki67-positive cells, which has not been reported previously, and demonstrates dandruff is a condition displaying epidermal hyper-proliferation. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Study design - Samples - Haematoxylin and eosin staining - Microscopy - Image analysis of epidermal morphology - Immunohistochemical analysis Ki67 - Image analysis of Ki67 staining - RESULTS : Dandruff skin shows significant changes in eperdimal morphology compared to healthy scalp skin - Dandruff skin shows enhanced expression of the proliferation marker Ki67 DOI : 10.1111/ics.12539 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bvf1-Kik63yjVTr_KvaJ83DDr1QL9Cpw/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33114 [article]

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Claims and measurement methods for hair and scalp / Christiane Uhl in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 4 (06/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 4 (06/2015) . - p. 37-39 Titre : Claims and measurement methods for hair and scalp Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Christiane Uhl, Auteur ; Diana Khazaka, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 37-39 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse d'image L'analyse d'image est la reconnaissance des éléments contenus dans l'image. Il ne faut pas confondre analyse (décomposition en éléments) et traitement (action sur les composantes) de l'image. Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques -- Tests Cuir chevelu Pellicules (dermatologie) Produits capillaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hair diversity (style, shape, growth pattern or colour) is one of the most important features to define us physically. Therefore it is no surprise that the market of hair care products with a value of US$39 billion' is one of the most important sectors in the complete area of cosmetic products. Hair care products for women are the most frequently bought and used cosmetic products of ail. Shampoos and conditioners are leading the field. For men, hair care is the most important and favoured sector of ail cosmetics. The well-known global players e.g. Procter & Gambie, l'Oréal, Unilever, Kao or Beiersdorf have to hold their ground in the different points of sale for hair care against the private brands of the big drugstore chains which are also quite well established. The removal of oily or soil deposits from hair and scalp is of course the common denominator for all hair cleansing products. However, all kinds of other claims go along with hair care products; some are adapted from skin care, e.g. 'herbal & botanical', some are more malter of fact e.g. 'relieves scalp itch', 'anti-friz/frizz control', 'antistatic' or 'removes oil' and some are rather dramatic, like 'ressues hair from dullness' or 'fights dandruff'. The fastest growing claim is 'brightening and illuminating'. Almost half of the newly launched hair care products are advertised with this daim. In 2010 it was only 21% and, in 2014 this had grown to 46% of new products. Note de contenu : - Hair and scalp parameters - Image analysis - Dandruff En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Nq8He0nqc1DKfLrnFrYazRQ_rfN5FF96/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24297 [article]

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Effect of two shampoo formulations on the prokaryotic and eukaryotic microbiota composition of the human scalp in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 62-70 Titre : Effect of two shampoo formulations on the prokaryotic and eukaryotic microbiota composition of the human scalp Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 62-70 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides ribonucléique Âge Bactéries Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cuir chevelu Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Levures (botanique) Microbiote cutané shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The human scalp is characterized by a moderately diverse microbial community, comprising prokaryotic (bacteria) and eukaryotic (fungi) members. Although the details are far from being fully understood, the human scalp microbiota is implicated in several scalp disorders, in particular dandruff formation. Hence, the protection of an intact and diverse scalp microbiota can be regarded as a quality criterion for hair and scalp care formulations. In this study, we investigated the influence of two commercially available, non-antimicrobial shampoo formulations on the structure of the scalp microbiota. - Methods : Scalp microbiota samples, obtained by swab sampling from two cohorts of probands (n = 25, each), were analysed before and after daily use of two different shampoo formulations for 2 weeks, respectively. A polyphasic approach was used, comprising quantitative cultivation of bacteria and fungi on selective media as well as sequencing of PCR-amplified 16S rRNA and 18S rRNA genes, respectively. - Results : All analyses revealed a microbiota composition typical for the human scalp. While in particular fungal germ numbers increased significantly during the treatments, overall bacterial and fungal community composition was not affected, based on alpha- and beta-diversity measures. However, we observed an increase in structural bacterial diversity with the age of the probands. - Conclusions : Over an application period of 2 weeks, the investigated shampoo induced quantitative but no qualitative changes in the scalp microbial community structure of the investigated probands, suggesting no adverse but rather preserving or even stimulating effects of the underlying formulations on the scalp microbiota. Further investigation will have to clarify if this is also true for longer application periods and if the formulations might affect community functionality, for example microbial gene expression, rather than community composition. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Application study and scalp sampling - Microbiological cell counts - DNA extraction for molecular analyses - Library preparation and sequencing - Bioinformatical and statistical analyses - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Sequencing data and general microbial community composition - Factors influencing microbial community composition - Table 1 : INCI list of the used shampoo formulations DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12895 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15s-ZDMAWc8OzdyvN0HdKGUiGQoIuXn5t/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40579 [article]

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Enhanced piroctone olamine retention from shampoo for superior anti-dandruff efficacy / Eric S. Johnson in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 236-245 Titre : Enhanced piroctone olamine retention from shampoo for superior anti-dandruff efficacy Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Eric S. Johnson, Auteur ; Debora W. Chang, Auteur ; James R. Schwartz, Auteur ; Ulrike Blume-Peytavi, Auteur ; James P. Henry, Auteur ; Tamara L. Caterino, Auteur ; Allison L. Talley, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 236-245 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antifongiques Antipelliculaires Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Cuir chevelu Dermatite sébhorrhéique Desquamation Etudes cliniques Pellicules (dermatologie) Piroctone olamine Produits capillaires shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Dandruff is a pervasive chronic condition which negatively impacts quality of life. Effective treatment requires efficient delivery of scalp benefit agents that control commensal scalp Malassezia levels. Delivery of benefit agents from shampoos requires balancing many technical parameters to achieve the desired outcome without sacrificing secondary parameters, such as cosmetic attributes. - Objectives : To develop formulation technologies that increase the shampoo delivery efficiency of the scalp benefit agent piroctone olamine (PO). Increased delivery should result in increased anti-dandruff efficacy. - Methods : Micellar Stability and Association parameters were quantified via dynamic surface tension and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) diffusion parameters, respectively. PO delivery has been assessed in vivo both on the scalp surface and follicular infindibula using extraction procedures and analytical analysis. Clinical anti-dandruff efficacy was assessed for an advanced delivery technology prototype in comparison to standard delivery technology. - Results : Shampoo prototypes have been developed that increase the delivery efficiency of PO. Both surfactant and polymer coacervate-based approaches have been developed. Decreased micellar stability results in weaker association between PO and micelles, resulting in more efficient PO retention on the scalp surface and delivery to the infundibula. Increased charge density of cationic polymers optimizes coacervation enabling improved PO delivery as well. Increased PO delivery has been shown clinically to result in higher anti-dandruff efficacy as measured by both visible flakes and underlying biomarkers. - Conclusion : Increased efficiency PO delivery shampoos have been developed by optimization of both surfactant and coacervate parameters. The increased deposition efficiency results in significantly more products with significantly greater anti-dandruff efficacy. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Shampoo products and compositions evaluated - Measurement of Micellar Stability parameter (θ) - Measurement of Micellar Association parameter (Ds/Da) - Measurement of scalp surface retention of piroctone olamine in vivo - Measurement of infundibular delivery of piroctone olamine in vivo - Clinical efficacy study design - Assessment of flaking severity - Assessment of histamine and ratio of IL1ra/IL-1α from scalp surface - Test products - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Micellar Stability parameter evaluations - Micellar Association parameter (Ds/Da) - Scalp surface retention of piroctone olamine in vivo - Infundibular delivery of piroctone olamine in vivo - Evaluation of Anti-Dandruff clinical efficacy - Table 1 : Summary of shampoo compositions evaluated - Table 2 : Summary of Micellar Stability parameter and Micellar Association parameter data - Table 3 : Summary of Micellar Association data and PO retention - Table 4 : Summary of piroctone olamine scalp retention data - Table 5 : Summary of anti-dandruff clinical evaluation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12835 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15x6UeCPskFUzXhclO36lFCI1b11GE8SC/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39173 [article]

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Introducing a new hair care superhero / Anna Aharoni in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 3 (03/2021)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 3 (03/2021) . - p. 39-41 Titre : Introducing a new hair care superhero Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anna Aharoni, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 39-41 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Brillance (optique) Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Conditionnement Cosmétiques Cuir chevelu Frisure Hydratation Mesure Peignage Produits capillaires Produits naturels Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hair products are increasingly needing to offer multifunctionality. To help you, a hair colouring concept have developed a hair which offers styling benefits. Weather changes, air pollution and hair styling routines can be harsh for the hair. Consumers are looking for more natural hair care products that will restore and rehabilitate their hair without compromising on quality and safety. Accordingly, hair care brands are in the race to solve common challenges like taming frizz, restoring shine, preventing breakage and protecting the hair from heated styling tools with emphasis on natural and sustainable products to align with market demands. Note de contenu : - Conditioning : measurement of dry combing forces - Hair shine performance - Frizz reduction vs. time - Evaluation of conditioning properties of the Hair Complex in wash off hair mask - Frizz reduction potential evaluation of the Hair Complex based leave-in hair cream vs. time - Heat protection potential of the hair complex based on leave-in hair cream via repeated grooming - In vivo evaluation of scalp moisturisation potential vs. time using the hair complex in a leave-in hair cream - Fig. 1 : Conditioning - Measurement of dry combing forces - Fig. 2 : Hair shine performance - Fig. 3 : Frizz reduction vs time - Fig. 4 : Two studies : Conditioning by dry combine forces meaasurement & conditioning by wet combing forces measurement - Fig. 5 : Frizz reduction potential evaluation vs. time - Fig. 6 : In vivo evaluation of scalp moisturisation potential vs. time En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GulAyiVv8oGjywUErjYhiVI5tcPMg_7K/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35504 [article]

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Mechanical epilation exerts complex biological effects on human hair follicles and perifollicular skin: An ex vivo study approach / Marta Bertolini in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

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À propos de la méthionine / Pierre Avenas in L'ACTUALITE CHIMIQUE, N° 450 (04/2020)  

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Recent patent applications for coffee and coffee by-products as active ingredients in cosmetics / Valéria de Mello in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023)  

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Reproducing the scalp microbiota community : co-colonization of a 3D reconstructed human epidermis with C. acnes and M. restricta / Marisa Meloni in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

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Role of scalp health in achieving optimal hair growth and retention / Antonella Tosti in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° S1 (11/2021)  

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The analysis of scalp irritation by coacervates produced in hair shampoo via FTIR with focal plane array detector, X-ray photoelectron microscopy and HaCaT cells / I. K. Jung in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 2 (04/2017)

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The skin and its microbiota are one entity / Harald van der Hoeven in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 1 (01/2022)  

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The worldwide diversity of scalp seborrhoea, as daily experienced by seven human ethnic groups / F. Pouradier in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)

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