Acryloyl esters of emodin for waterless dyeing and toxicological studies / Gabriel Rampazzo Magalhães in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 4 (08/2024)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 140, N° 4 (08/2024) . - p. 620-628 Titre : Acryloyl esters of emodin for waterless dyeing and toxicological studies Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gabriel Rampazzo Magalhães, Auteur ; Gabriely Fernanda Groto Militao, Auteur ; Natália Oliveira de Farias, Auteur ; Anjaina Fernandes de Albuquerque, Auteur ; Marina Tenório Botelho, Auteur ; Riikka Räisänen, Auteur ; Harold S. Freeman, Auteur ; Gisela de Aragão Umbuzeiro, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 620-628 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse toxicologique Dioxyde de carbone Esters acryloyles d'émodine Fluides supercritiques Matériaux -- Modifications chimiques Mutagènes Teinture -- Fibres textiles synthétiques Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Traditional textile dyeing processes usually require large quantities of water and energy and generate wastewater that can be harmful to the environment. Dyeing in supercritical carbon dioxide (sc-CO2) media is promising in textile coloration due especially to it providing a waterless process and eliminating the need for an energy intensive drying step. The natural anthraquinone emodin showed promising results for dyeing different fibres through sc-CO2 process. However, emodin is mutagenic. The aim of this study was to develop non-mutagenic derivatives of emodin that can be applied to textiles using sc-CO2. Emodin structure was modified incorporating acryloyl groups, which are considered suitable for decreasing potential for DNA intercalation, and thus mutagenicity. The presence of acryloyl groups would also enable atmospheric plasma induced bonding with fibres. Molecular modelling studies showed that emodin derivatives became less planar with increasing number of attached acryloyl groups, making intercalation unlikely. The derivatives produced were tested to assess mutagenicity in vitro (Salmonella/microsome assay, TA1537, 10% S9) and in vivo (micronucleus test in hemocytes of aquatic crustacean). We found that emodin can be derivatised using acryloyl chlorides to give mono- and di-acrylate esters suitable for dyeing polyester fibres in sc-CO2. However, the new dyes presented mutagenicity for both in vitro and in vivo. Although the derivatives provided greenish-yellow alternatives to emodin for dyeing synthetic fibres, they do not appear to be viable alternatives from the point of view of preserving human and environmental health. Plasma bonding studies are underway. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL METHODS : Derivatisation of emodin - Dyeing procedure - In vitro mutagenicity – MPA test - In vivo mutagenicity – micronuclei test - RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS : Derivatisation of emodin - Dyeing results - In vitro mutagenicity – MPA - In vivo mutagenicity – micronuclei test DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12731 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F0gLFzT7inodHcDvNrqKS32lF_doZY4w/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41322 [article]

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Fungal colorants in applications - focus on Cortinarius species / Riikka Räisänen in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 135, N° 1 (02/2019)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 135, N° 1 (02/2019) . - p. 22-31 Titre : Fungal colorants in applications - focus on Cortinarius species Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Riikka Räisänen, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 22-31 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anthraquinone Colorants fongiques Extraction (chimie) Impression sur étoffes Teinture -- Fibres textiles Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Secondary metabolites in fungi offer an interesting source of bio-based compounds that could be used as colorants in many applications. From a historical point of view, fungal natural dyes have been used more rarely than plant-based dyes. This paper investigates the potential of fungal colorants, using Cortinarius species as examples. In our research, fruiting bodies of the fungi Cortinarius sanguineus and Cortinarius semisanguineus were used as sources of anthraquinone dyestuffs. From 10 kg of fresh fruiting bodies, 60 g of anthraquinone powder was obtained, 6% of the dry weight content. The most abundant compounds were emodin, dermocybin and their glucosides, which formed over 90% of the total dyestuff amount. Pure emodin and dermocybin, as well as the crude water extract, were used for the dyeing and printing of natural and synthetic fibres. Conventional mordant techniques and high-temperature (HT) disperse dye techniques were applied, and light and washing fastness were tested according to International Organization for Standardization standards. Our experiments show that the yields of dye powders extracted from fungi are reasonable compared with the yields of, for example, madder (Rubia tinctorum). Natural anthraquinones produce strong and bright colours on several types of fibres. In particular, for HT disperse dyed polyester, the light and washing fastness properties were excellent. Anthraquinones are common in nature and there are many fungal species which produce them, so there are a variety of possibilities for growing fungi. The use of large-scale cultures is an interesting perspective for future biocolorant production. Note de contenu : - Obtaining colorants - Yields of biocolorants - Anthraquinones in C. sanguineus, C. vitiosus and C. semisanguineus - Dyeing and printing - Colour fastness properties of anthraquinones in dyed and printed fabrics DOI : 10.1111/cote.12376 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12376 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31662 [article]

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