Accueil
Détail de l'auteur
Auteur Stephanie Acker |
Documents disponibles écrits par cet auteur
Ajouter le résultat dans votre panier Affiner la recherche
Cosmetic UV filters in the environment-state of the art in EU regulations, science and possible knowledge gaps / Sascha Pawlowski in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)
[article]
Titre : Cosmetic UV filters in the environment-state of the art in EU regulations, science and possible knowledge gaps Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sascha Pawlowski, Auteur ; Laura Henriette Luetjens, Auteur ; Alina Preibisch, Auteur ; Stephanie Acker, Auteur ; Mechtild Petersen-Thiery, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 52-66 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie industrielle -- Législation -- Pays de l'Union européenne
cosmétiques -- Produits chimiques
Produits antisolaires
Règlements de sécuritéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The aim of this work was to review the principals of environmental hazard and risk assessment (ERA) of cosmetic UV filters registered under EU REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals). Furthermore, effects as obtained from non-standardized testing methods and organisms from scientific literature were compared against the predicted no effect concentrations (PNECs) as derived based on standardized test methods for the various environmental compartments under REACH.
- Methods : The REACH dossiers at the ECHA webpage were screened for available information related to basic physico–chemical data (i.e. water solubility, octanol–water partitioning coefficient), PNECs and associated data (data basis, assessment factors (AFs)). Scientific literature was screened for available ecotoxicity data and the adverse effect levels were compared against the derived PNECs under REACH. Current approaches for environmental risk assessments of UV filters were evaluated for its applicability for a direct release scenario.
- Results : Under REACH, PNECs were derived for all hazardous UV filters. Although, PNECs were often derived for various environmental compartments (i.e. freshwater, marine water, sediment, soil), results from literature focused on aquatic data. Effects as observed within scientific literature matches in principle with the hazardous profile of the UV filters. Effects levels both on the acute and the chronic toxicity as retrieved from the non-standardized test organisms (literature) were above the derived PNECs under REACH. Currently, ERAs performed for cosmetic UV filters under REACH are solely tonnage driven and thus do not fully capture the use in sunscreens and associated leisure activities.
- Conclusion : Existing EU REACH regulation is considered as sufficient to evaluate the environmental safety of UV filters used in sunscreens. To cover the direct release of UV filters due to various leisure activities into the aquatic freshwater and marine environment, an additional application-based ERA is considered necessary.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Review of information requirements for UV filters under REACH - Extraction of relevant information from REACH dossiers - Extraction of relevant information from literature review - Comparison of effect levels from non-standardized test organisms with derived PNECs under EU REACH
- RESULTS : Review of information requirements for UV filters and principles of environmental risk assessments (ERAs) under REACH - Review of relevant information related to the environmental safety of UV filters within EU REACH - Review of scientific literature - Comparison of REACH derived PNECs with toxicity levels from non-standardized tests
- Table 1 : Overview of investigated UV filters and relevant physical–chemical properties
- Table 2 : Overview of principal environmentally related data requirements for substances such as UV filters used in sunscreens under REACH
- Table 3 : Freshwater : Predicted no effect concentrations (PNECfreshwater) from the REACH registration dossier of UV filters and most sensitive data on various organisms from literature (acute and chronic)
- Table 4 : Marine water: Predicted no effect concentrations (PNECmarine water) from the REACH registration dossier of UV filters and most sensitive data on various organisms from literature (acute and chronic)DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12898 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12898 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40251
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023) . - p. 52-66[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire Evaluation de l'impact environnemental des produits solaires / Stephanie Acker in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors-série (12/2021)
[article]
Titre : Evaluation de l'impact environnemental des produits solaires Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stephanie Acker, Auteur ; Sascha Pawlowski, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 303-307 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Multilingue (mul) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Toxicologie
Environnement -- Etudes d'impact
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Produits antisolairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : EcoSun Pass est un nouvel outil destiné à évaluer l’impact environnemental des fltres UV contenus dans les protections solaires . L’évaluation des
fltres UV est réalisée de façon holistique et transparente sur la base de critères reconnus à l’échelle internationale . En combinant facteurs
environnementaux et effcacité, cet outil permet de développer des produits solaires à la fois performants et plus respectueux de l'environnement .Note de contenu : - Principales tendances en matière de protection solaire
- L'impact environnemental de la protection solaire
- La nécessité d'outils d'évaluation efficaces
- Un outil scientifique pour évaluer les ingrédients des crèmes solaires
- Spécificité de l'outil
- Tableau : Extinctions des filtres UV utilisés dans les produits de protection solaire cosmétiquesEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1P2RHPvPTwichU2nsC_1lPAqyX47_FWSl/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36633
in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE > N° Hors-série (12/2021) . - p. 303-307[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23074 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible High SPF sunscreens that feel light on the skin / Brigitte Lindemann in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018)
[article]
Titre : High SPF sunscreens that feel light on the skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Brigitte Lindemann, Auteur ; Stephanie Acker, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 26-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emollients
Facteur de protection solaire
Produits antisolaires
Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eauIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Tinosorb Lite Aqua is a cosmetic UV filter formulation that brings the oil-soluble, high performance and broad-spectrum UV filter Tinosorb S into the water phase. No other UV filter currently on the market provides broad-spectrum UV protection this effective in the water phase - without whitening effects and all while enabling water resistance. Potential applications include face care and sun care products for daily use. Tinosorb S lite Aqua helps manufacturers of sun care products cater for consumers who are looking for long-term protection against skin damage but who demand a product that feels light on the skin. Note de contenu : - Solubilizing BEMT in a polymer matrix
- Proof of concept
- Selection of emollients
- Enhancing water resistance
- Fig. 1 : Absorbance spectra of UV filters in solution, red : effective broad-spectrum BEMT
- Fig. 2 : Tinosorb S Lite Aqua boosts sun protection
- Fig. 3 : Choice of emollients with higher spreadability values and lighter sensory properties possible with Tinosorb S Lite Aqua
- Table 1 : SPF in vivo and UVA-PF in vitro results
- Table 2 : Choice of emollients in relation to UV filter BEMT in either oil or water phase
- Table 3 : SPF in vivo and WR in vitro and in vivo resultsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qXv_qU2b3AT29ZrrT2YGs1Z2Z67GzLID/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31089
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018) . - p. 26-30[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20515 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible How to overcome the new challenges in sun-care / Myriam Sohn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020)
[article]
Titre : How to overcome the new challenges in sun-care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Myriam Sohn, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur ; Marcel Schnyder, Auteur ; Stephanie Acker, Auteur ; Mechtild Petersen-Thiery, Auteur ; Sascha Pawlowski, Auteur ; Bernd Herzog, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 2-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement
Ethylhexyl Méthoxycinanamate
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques -- Suppression ou remplacement
Octocrylène
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sunscreen producers and UV filter manufacturers are currently facing urgent challenges. On the one hand, the legal situation of two widely used UVB filters Ethylhexyl Methoxycinanamate (EHMC) and Octocrylene (OCR) is unclear due to rising concerns on their safety for humans and the environment; on the other hand, the image of nano particulate UV filters is downgraded in the press and by digital apps questioning their safety profile without scientifically based evidence. Some producers pro-actively remove these UV filters from their new sunscreens' developments which is a real challenge in terms of performance achievement. This paper aims to provide UV filter system alternatives for developing efficient sunscreens without EHMC and OCR. Additionally, it clarifies the safety situation of nano-particulate UV filters and explains their usefulness in sunscreens, providing, however, UV filter system alternatives. Furthermore, this manuscript presents a calculation method to assess the impact of a UV filter combination on the environment and shows that it is possible to develop eco-sustainable sunscreens. Though, each restriction in the choice of UV filters will imply certain compromises. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Formulations for octocrylene and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate free systems - Measurement of free radicals - Blue light transmittance measurements - Assessment of the EcoSun pass value
- RESULTS : Sunscreens without octocrylene and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate - Nano particulate UV filters in sunscreens - Environmental impact of sunscreens
- Fig. 1 : Photostability profile of a) Photostable UVA and b) Partly stabilized UVA sunscreens ; irradiation performed as described in ISO24443:2012
- Fig. 2 : Specific UV extinction E (1,1) for different particle size of TBPT
- Table 1 : Investigated UV filter combinations for sunscreens without EHMC and OCR
- Table 2 : Maximum authorized concentration and status of European approved UV filters
- Table 3 : INCI, efficacy E (1,1) max and handling of alternative UVB filters in Europe
- Table 4 : SPF, UVA-PF, and generated free radicals (%) of DHHB or BMDBM based UV filter combinations
- Table 5 : Features of nano and some soluble registered UV filters
- Table 6 : UV combinations without nano filters for SPF 30, 50 and 50+ with a ratio UVA-PF/SPF of at least 1/3
- Table 7 : Ecosun Pass value and SPF of five UV filters combinationsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O3nEeRuS9ZgrfESGbXfMJxKbSBGJjGCi/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34614
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020) . - p. 2-12[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21874 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Nano or non-nano the key aspect of the measurement method / Myriam Sohn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022)
[article]
Titre : Nano or non-nano the key aspect of the measurement method Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Myriam Sohn, Auteur ; Wendel Wohlleben, Auteur ; Philipp Müller, Auteur ; Denis Botin, Auteur ; Marcel Schnyder, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur ; Stephanie Acker, Auteur ; Bernd Herzog, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 2-9 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Dioxyde de titane
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Granulométrie
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Mesure
Microscopie électronique en transmission
Nanoparticules
Oxyde de zinc
Produits antisolairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Despite the UV performance benefits of particulate UV filters, concerns have been raised over their potential percutaneous permeation leading to the requirement of a specific approval for all nano UV filters in Europe. Under the legally binding definition of the Cosmetic regulation No. 1223/2009, nanomaterial means […] a material […] on the scale from 1 to 100 nm. The recommendation of the European Commission (2011/696/EU) revised 10 of June 2022 (2022/C229/01) further specifies that a material is nano when at least 50% of the number size distribution of the constituent particles is comprised between 1 and 100 nm. The situation for Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide is confusing since the constituent particles are often part of agglomerates. Some suppliers clearly specify the nano feature of their material, while others declare the non-nano property of their inorganic products. The objective of this study was, therefore, to measure the number-based particle size distribution of three marketed Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide grades using the decision support flow scheme devised by the NanoDefine project. This group was created to support the identification of nanomaterials as required by the European legislation. We employed the tier 1 method asymmetrical flow field-flow fractionation (AF4) coupled with UV and IC-PMS (inductively coupled plasma mass spectroscopy) detectors and tier 2 method transmission electron microscopy (TEM). The study clearly taught that the samples that appeared to be non-nanomaterials with AF4-IC-PMS measurements were finally proven to be nanomaterials using the TEM tier 2 method. Relying only on tier 1 methodologies such as AF4, X-Ray Disc Centrifuge or Dynamic Light Scattering to determine the non-nano property of a material is insufficient, since tier 1 methods are not able to detect constituent particles as part of agglomerates, which is often the case for Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. The status of being a non-nanomaterial can, in this case, only be certified with a tier 2 technique, particularly electron microscopy. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Samples of inorganic UV filters - Sunscreen market product - Particle size measurement methods
- RESULTS : Asymmetrical flow field-flow fractionation - Transmission Electron MIcroscopyEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cR6X6diZiXzgjg00_rZyAvVldN9PMu8l/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37924
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022) . - p. 2-9[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23513 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Performance, safety and sustainability - All in tris-biphenyl triazine / Myriam Sohn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021)
Permalink