Effective protection and repair of the hair from daily weathering / Irene Montano in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018) . - p. 10-14 Titre : Effective protection and repair of the hair from daily weathering Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Irene Montano, Auteur ; Franziska Wandrey, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 10-14 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Antiradicalaire Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cheveux -- Teinture Cosmétiques Essais de résilience Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Protection thermique Résistance aux conditions climatiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hair weathering is the deterioration of the hair shaft from root to tip and is the result of a series of cosmetic and environmental factors. Cosmetic practices such as brushing, combing, dyeing, straightening, perming, etc., as well as environmental factors such as exposure to UV light and polluted air can induce structural damage to the F-layer and the hair fiber. The cuticle becomes raised and porous, which exposes the cortex to further damage. A decrease in hair shine, color, elasticity and strength is observed, which eventually leads to hair damage. In different studies measured utilizing state-of-the-art technologies, a hair care ingredient that combines tara tannins derived from Caesalpinia spinosa pods and organic sunflower sprout extract (trade name KeraGuard), revealed a capacity to protect hair against free radicals and physical stresses. It was also shown to protect dyed hair from color fading and heat damage as well as to repair chemically treated hair. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : The hair unit - The F-layer - The hair is constantly exposed to stress factors - METHODS : Determination of the antioxidant power - Analysis of the radical scavenging properties by ESR spectroscopy - Electron spin resonance (ESR) spectroscopy on bleached hair - Hair color protection - Heat damage test - RESULTS : Antioxidant power compared to that of vitamin C - Antioxidant protection effect on hair - Hair color protection against sequential washing and UV exposure - Restoraton of bleached hair - Protection of the hair from heat damage - FIGURES : 1. Structure of the cuticle F-layer - 2. Antioxidant power compared to that of vitamin C and green tea - 3. Radical scavenging effect. Antioxidant protection effect at 0,5% and 1.0% active ingredient with/without washing - 4. Hair color protection effect against washing and UV exposure in comparison to the placebo - 5. Repair of bleached hair. Restoration effect of the hair after bleaching using 0.5% and 1.0% active ingredient En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1io77hGKB52fP6fVx8j1AX16-_-gxZoar/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30350 [article]

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Invisible yet indispensable, the skin microbiota needs to be properly supported / Irene Montano in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019) . - p. 26-30 Titre : Invisible yet indispensable, the skin microbiota needs to be properly supported Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Irene Montano, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 26-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Fermentation Flore cutanée Microbiote Miel et constituants Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Billions of microorganisms colonize the human skin at various sites and constitute the skin microbiota. They form complex communities that function together with the host immune system to defend against pathogens and to maintain skin health. Since having a well-balanced cutaneous microflora is important for a healthy and beautiful skin, protecting its balance and its recovery represents a winning strategy for skin care products. The active ingredient Black BeeOmeâ„¢ that results from the fermentation of honey from the rare wild dark bee Apis mellifera mellifera with the bacteria Zymomonas mobilis, has been designed to harmonize the skin microflora after stress to ensure a healthy and pure skin. The fermentation eliminates the basic sugars glucose, fructose and sucrose in the honey. As a result, the carbon source for unwanted bacterial growth on the skin is removed. On the other hand, the ferment of Zymomonas mobilis contains factors that may help to control the growth of microorganisms on the skin. Black BeeOmeâ„¢ has been shown to efficiently exert its prebiotic effect to restore the healthy skin’s natural microbiota following daily stress. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : The cutaneous microbiota - The fermentation of black bee honey - The prebiotic action of black BeeOme - METHODS AND STUDY RESULTS : Recolonization of the skin microflora after washing - Skin barrier enhancing effect and improvement of skin impurities - Improvement of various skin parameters in urban areas En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fo53k---m-AO8wx4gI2UFyaX7bbpFEXj/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33153 [article]

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Rebalancing the excessive sebum production in the scalp / Irene Montano in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 5 (05/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 5 (05/2020) . - p. 24-27 Titre : Rebalancing the excessive sebum production in the scalp Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Irene Montano, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 24-27 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène Inhibiteurs (chimie) Lipases Les lipases sont des enzymes hydrosolubles capables d'effectuer l'hydrolyse de fonctions esters et sont spécialisées dans la transformation de triglycéride en glycérol et en acides gras (lipolyse). À ce titre, elles constituent une sous-classe des estérases. Lipogénèse Produits capillaires Séborrhée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : An oily scalp is caused by over-reactive sebaceous glands on the scalp. The oil or sebum attracts dirt more easily, produces even dandruff, and makes the hair stick together. To reduce the sebum and enhance the barrier efficacy on oily scalp, Mibelle Biochemistry has developed an active ingredient based on the Chinese medicinal herb Astragalus membranaceus. AstraForce is a liposomal preparation of Astragalus membranaceus root extract. This plant is one of the most important Chinese medicinal herbs and its roots have been used for more than 2500 years in Chinese medicine to strengthen qi, the body’s life force. This liposomal form facilitates the penetration of actives into the sebaceous duct allowing the active components to target the sebaceous gland more straightforwardly. The sebum-reducing effect of AstraForce has been proven on volunteers having oily scalp and hair while maintaining the barrier effectiveness. In vitro the active ingredient has reduced the activity of enzymes involved in sebum lipid metabolism. AstraForce thereby has a positive effect on scalp purification and hydration as well as reducing sebum production in the context of oily hair. Note de contenu : - A TRADITIONAL CHINESE HERB TO REBALANCE THE SCALP SEBUM PRODUCTION - STUDY RESULTS : Inhibition of the lipase activity - Lipogenesis - Sebum-reducint efficacy oc AstraForce on oily scalp andhair - Fig. 1 : Epidermal and dermal layers of the scalp, including the hair unit - Fig. 2 : Inhibition of the lipase activity - Fig. 3 : Reduction of lipogenesis after 7 days of treatment - Fig. 4 : Sebum reduction on volunteers with oily scalp - Fig. 5 : Microcamera images and the corresponding Sebufix® illustrations of the sebum present on the scalp of the volunteers at different time points - Fig. 6 : Reduction of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) on volunteers with oily scalp En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nTBd_57aZ8LiI-g-8uAoOT-tKkKdzajt/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34064 [article]

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