Natural oil metathesis unveils high-performance weightless cosmetic emollients / Aleksandra Zmiric in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019) . - p. 26-30 Titre : Natural oil metathesis unveils high-performance weightless cosmetic emollients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Aleksandra Zmiric, Auteur ; Sergio Manzano, Auteur ; Luciana Rodrigues, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 26-30 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcanes Biomatériaux Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimie écologique Emollients Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Métathèse (chimie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A cosmetic product wins when it succeeds in awakening the sensory memory of someone who uses it by creating a unique texture, intriguing color or unforgettable fragrance. This sensory experience is important to modern consumers who are increasingly asking for feathery, second-skin like textures. This particularly applies to those who follow the so called "layering" regimen, a popular skincare trend originating in Asia in which different products are applied on the skin, one above another, in specific order. Commonly cosmetic products are produced using volatile silicones, fossil-based alkanes and esters but there is growing concern over their accumulation in the environment and the petrochemical sourcing of these materials, raising sustainability and safety questions. This has led to products created with bio-based, sustainable and safe materials. A unique green chemistry process, called metathesis, has paved the road to bio-based alkanes, enabling the production of feathery emollients, that have high skin compatibility, are synergistic with all other cosmetic ingredients and are high performing in skin and hair care applications. Bio-based alkanes are also characterized by high purity and ready biodegradability. This article explores all the benefits of bio-based alkanes in cosmetic formulations for numerous applications including skincare, sun care, make-up, deodorants and demanding hair care. Note de contenu : - Green megatrend - Metathesis technology - Bio-based dodecane is a perfectly-matched alternative to D5 (cyclopentasiloxane) - The behaviour of bio-based dodecane in skin care - The behaviour of bio-based dodecane in hair care - Bio-based tridecane (and) pentadecane as valid alternatives to petrochemical isoalkanes - Behaviour of bio-based renewable tridecane (and) pentadecane in skin care - Behaviour of bio-based renewable tridecane (and) pentadecane in hair care - Fig. 1 : Sensory profile of bio-based dodecane compared to cyclopentasiloxane in emulsion at 10% - Fig. 2 : Wet combing force in shampoo - Fig. 3 : Sensory profile of bio-based tridecane (and) pentadecane compared to isohexadecane in emulsion at 10% - Fig. 4 : Wet combing in conditioner after one wash - Fig. 5 : Wet combing in conditioner after three washes - long lasting effect - Fig. 6 : Wet combing in leave-in formulation - Fig. 7 : Dry combing in leave in formulation - Table 1 : Formulation 1 : Natural deodorant stick with evanescent silicone-like skin feel - Table 2 : Natural double ends liquid crystals - silicone free - Table 3 : Formulation 3 : Natural feathery feel sun care oil En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t7hGRBIxW1fSqDjyERcX0_vmSqOHVkRX/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32959 [article]

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New formulation concepts overcoming the water/oil transparency challenge / Sergio Manzano in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 12 (12/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 12 (12/2017) . - p. 28-34 Titre : New formulation concepts overcoming the water/oil transparency challenge Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sergio Manzano, Auteur ; I. Minoggio, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 28-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Parabènes Peau -- Soins et hygiène Rouges à lèvres shampooings Silicones Les silicones, ou polysiloxanes, sont des composés inorganiques formés d'une chaine silicium-oxygène (...-Si-O-Si-O-Si-O-...) sur laquelle des groupes se fixent, sur les atomes de silicium. Certains groupes organiques peuvent être utilisés pour relier entre elles plusieurs de ces chaines (...-Si-O-...). Le type le plus courant est le poly(diméthylsiloxane) linéaire ou PDMS. Le second groupe en importance de matériaux en silicone est celui des résines de silicone, formées par des oligosiloxanes ramifiés ou en forme de cage (wiki). Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Transparency is the property of allowing light to pass through a material, offering a feeling of purity and simplicity. Further, the term also implies openness, communication and accountability. Personal Care is witnessing an increasing demand for transparent formulations. Yet, this trend faces the technical challenge of satisfying another strong market driver: the addition of a significant amount of vegetable oils in water systems. Researchers at Clariant have taken up the challenge of achieving this transparent duality through inspiring and consumer-driven new formulations, creating a beautiful transparent alliance between the opposing natures of oil and water, without compromising sensory or performance. As a result, there are new opportunities for clear, high-oil content Personal Care formulations that fulfill the transparent communication demanded by consumers. With Clariant's ingredients and technologies, the resulting formulation concepts for the face care, body care, lip care and hair care segments, offer formulas with four reliable claims of much relevance today: naturalness, simplicity, efficacy and free-from. Each one contains truly high oil content, with no trade-off in transparency or performance. They capture current expectatiions of consumers and answer today's technological requirements from the Personal Care industry. Note de contenu : - ADDRESSING EXPECTATIONS - SAMPLE FORMULATIONS & CLAIMS : Formula 1 : Naturalness - Formula 2 : Simplicity - Formula 3: Efficacy - Formula 4 : Free from SLES, Silicone and parabens - FORMULATIONS : 1. Urban shield infusion - Face care - 2. Dual body mist body care - 3. Plumping splash lipstick LIP CARE - 4. Oil infused antidote shampoo hair care En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ip2PFlKHp-2j9L9opvHHRJl6NEOIBgDT/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29696 [article]

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