Discovering the invigorating osmolyte / Piera Pericu in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 4 (09/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 4 (09/2019) . - p. 107-110 Titre : Discovering the invigorating osmolyte Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Piera Pericu, Auteur ; Carole Gherardi, Auteur ; Hans Lambers, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 107-110 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Ingrédients cosmétiques Osmolytes Les osmolytes sont de petites molécules de matière organique, solubles dans la solution intracellulaire, qui jouent un rôle dans la lutte contre les stress liés à l'environnement chez les organismes vivants. Dans de nombreux cas, les stress environnementaux menacent la stabilité de la conformation des protéines et donc divers osmolytes ont été sélectionnés pour stabiliser les macromolécules intracellulaires. Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This article focuses on myo-inositol and describes the many versatile functions of this ingredient in particular how it is involved in the regulation of three main elements i skin : energy, oxygen and water. This is reflected and supported by an improved skin elasticity of the face in a large clinical test where an O/W cream with 3% myo-inositol was applied for 5 weeks and compared to a placebo cream and to the stard of treatment. Note de contenu : - Energy : Myo-inositol as stimulator of cell growth and cell metabolism - Oxygen : Myo-inositol contributes to increase skin respiration - Water : Myo-inositol helps to protect keratinocytes against hyper-osmotic stress - Overall effect : improvement of skin elasticity - Fig. 1 : Improved cell metabolism by 0.1% myo-inositol - Fig. 2 : Improved filaggrin expression by 3% myo-inositol - Fig. 3 : Improved oxygen consumption of dermal fibroblasts by 0.1% myo-inositol- - Fig. 4 : Improved skin oxygenation in vivo by 0.% myo-inositol - Fig. 5 : Control of water balance in skin by osmolytes like -myo-inositol - Fig. 6 : Cell survival and morphology assessment of keratinocytes under hyperosmotic stress - Fig. 7 : Cell survival and morphology assessment of keratinocytes under hyperosmotic stress. Flow cytometry - Fig. 8 : Improved biomechanical properties of the skin of face by 3% myo-inositol - Fig. 9 : Correlation between elastic recovery and age on the face En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AYkuVhySDvo2XlVFLbQs4DILDBs9wf_a/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33198 [article]

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Do good, look great : the case for side stream ingredients / Piera Pericu in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019) . - p. 44-46 Titre : Do good, look great : the case for side stream ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Piera Pericu, Auteur ; Todd Krieger, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 44-46 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bétaïne Les bétaïnes sont les composés zwitterioniques dont l'atome portant la charge positive ne porte pas d'atome d'hydrogène et n'est pas adjacent à l'atome portant la charge négative1. Les bétaïnes n'admettent pas de formes limites sans charge. Historiquement, le terme désigne les ammoniums quaternaires dérivés des acides aminés. Le nom de bétaïne vient de la betterave sucrière d'où a été extraite la première bétaïne découverte, la triméthylglycine (TMG, historiquement appelée "bétaïne") aujourd'hui appelée "glycine bétaïne". Betterave Bilan des émissions de gaz à effets de serre Développement durable Ingrédients cosmétiques shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Today's consumer understands the need for sustainability. They "get" it. And, increasingly, they demand it. But they also expect ethically produced goods to perform equally to, if not better than, their conventionally produced counterparts. Note de contenu : - Safe enough to eat - Future proof ressources - Life cycle assessment - The beauty of sugar beets - Continuous innovation and improvement En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oqUfYf9QUb9WhrSRbyi3qMTsiUt6-iQ2/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31721 [article]

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Glycine-betaine working at the core of the hair fibre / C. L. Gummer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 11 (11/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 11 (11/2017) . - p. 8-12 Titre : Glycine-betaine working at the core of the hair fibre Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : C. L. Gummer, Auteur ; Carole Gherardi, Auteur ; Piera Pericu, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 8-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bétaïnes Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Glycine Produits capillaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hair fibres have no active or renewable protective mechanisms, yet hair provides an essential beauty and protective function where each fibre may need to last several years. Glycine-betaine (GENENCARE OSMS BA by DuPont Industrial Biosciences), well known for its protein protection and osmolyte properties has established skin benefits and has the potential to protect and improve the protein structure of hair as it experiences the rigours of everyday cosmetic routines. Using a variety of analytical HPLC and HPDSC (High Pressure Differential Scanning Calorimetry), molecule vibration and rotation (Raman spectroscopy) and mechanical (tensile testing techniques), it has been demonstrated that Glycine-betaine is a natural component of human hair. In addition, it has been shown that it can be delivered to the cortex of the hair using typical hair care formulations. When present in the cortex, Glycine-betaine helps to influence the relationship between intermediate filaments (IF's) and intermediate filament associated proteins (IFAP's) resulting in improved hair strength. Note de contenu : - Glycine-betaine, a natural component of hair - Delivery of glycine-betaine from a shampoo in vivo - Penetration of glycine-betaine in to the fibre sub structure - Measuring the effect of glycine-betaine on cortex proteins - The effect of glycine-betaine on hair tensile properties (strength) - FIGURES : 1. Increase of glycine-betaine content in hair after wash with shampoo with 5% glycine-betaine LSMEANS from GLM (General Linear Model) with FIXED and RANDOM effects Tukey Pairwise Comparison show a significant effec of the treatment (p=0;036) - 2. Raman confocal microscopy study indicates that glycin-betaine infiltrates into hair shaft and covers evenly its cross-section - 3. Mean fluorescence intensity (a.u.) and pictures of hair cortex before and after shampoo washing - 4. Cross section of a cortical cell showing intermediate filaments (white dots) embedded in a matrix of intermediate filament associated proteins - 5. Reduction in enthalpy of normal virgin hair washed with 2% aqueous glycine-betaine for 2 minutes - 6. Increased elastic modulus and stress at 15% elongation after 15 minutes treatment with 5% glycine-betaine En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VE_70gh1KLoLknIxkqFYnCPpIgHTcLVm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29386 [article]

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Unlocking sustainable innovation : How conditioning biopolymer AURIST AGC transforms hair care and body wash applications / Kashimura Takenori in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 149, N° 12 (12/2023)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 149, N° 12 (12/2023) . - p. 18-23 Titre : Unlocking sustainable innovation : How conditioning biopolymer AURIST AGC transforms hair care and body wash applications Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kashimura Takenori, Auteur ; Piera Pericu, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 18-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biopolymères Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Formulation (Génie chimique) Hygiène Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Nettoyage Peignage Polymères -- Biodégradation shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : While mounting consumer and regulatory pressures due to changing climates are increasing the importance of sustainable materials and a rise in natural and/or bio-based ingredients in the marketplace, market research has consistently shown that efficacy is top of mind for consumers. Consumers who research ingredients are looking to better understand product effectiveness. Product performance will be key to repeat purchase. Bioengineered ingredients provide a solid narrative tool that can provide consumers improved product performance and a desired sustainability profile. This present article describes how AURISTâ„¢ AGC, an award-winning conditioning biopolymer enabled by IFF’s Designed Enzymatic Biopolymer (DEB) technology, can deliver conditioning and sensory modification properties to various product formats, while being bio-based and readily biodegradable. Note de contenu : - Better biopolymers through biomimicry - AURIST AGC benefits in hair conditioning : Pre-treatment - Measurement - AURIST AGEC mode of action in hair care - Benefits in skin cleansing products - Environmental profils of AURIST AGC - Table 1 : Model shampoo formulation used for AURIST AGC hair combability tests - Table 2 : Model formulae used to evaluate the effect of AURISTTM AGC in body wash applications En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lngT8O_NLhaB1sdGbSHcOxHEmePMOKCu/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40543 [article]

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Upcycled, moisturising and skin-friendly xylitol / Piera Pericu in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 8 (09/2022)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 8 (09/2022) . - p. 27-30 Titre : Upcycled, moisturising and skin-friendly xylitol Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Piera Pericu, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 27-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Dermo-cosmétologie Durée de vie (Ingénierie) Ingrédients cosmétiques Microbiome cutané Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Xylitol Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The author explain what xylitol has to offer as a natural active with proven benefits for skin health. The number of new skin care products featuring a microbiome-related claim has increased sharply over the last few years and it has become one of the most talked about drivers of product innovation in the category. At the same time, consumers' interest in environmental and ethical beauty continue to soar and influence purchasing decisions. A comparison between product launches featuring a sustainability claim between 2012 and 2022 showed an increase of nearly 70%. Of course, this does not mean that consumers are willing to compromise on the skin-hydrating performance of their chosen moisturiser. Far from it. Rather, these trends have created a more complex set of demands. The challenge facing formulators and brand owners is how to respond effectively with efficacious products that have minimum impact on the environment. In this article, we explain why a new highly purified xylitol - known as Genencare® XL - may be the key to meeting these expectations. This bioactive material not only sets a new benchmark in terms of xylitol sustainability, it has also been shown through scientific data to maintain skin hydration while supporting a healthy microbiome profile.  Note de contenu : - More than just hydration - Supported by science - Hydrated and healthy - Microbiome-minded skin care - Refreshing sensory effect - Strong sustainability - Future focus En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a2gCZiwv2cdBGg5eGaMM3IijqEpjD2SH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38359 [article]

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