| Titre : |
Sensitive skin : Active ingredients on the spotlight |
| Type de document : |
document électronique |
| Auteurs : |
Marta S. Ferreira, Auteur ; José M. Sousa Lobo, Auteur ; Isabel F. Almeida, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2022 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 56-73 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Allergies
Biomolécules actives
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Justification de l'allégation
Peau -- Inflammation
Peau -- Physiologie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Sensibilité cutanée
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
- Objective : Sensitive skin is characterized by self-reported sensory perceptions in response to stimuli that should not provoke unpleasant sensations. Cosmetic products for sensitive skin are designed to minimize these symptoms. This study aimed to unveil the most used active ingredients for sensitive skin in facial care products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel.
- Methods : A pool of products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel whose label included the expressions 'sensitive skin', 'reactive skin' or 'intolerant skin' were analysed. The active ingredients were identified from product compositions and ranked in descending order of occurrence. The scientific evidence regarding the mechanism of action and efficacy of each ingredient was also compiled.
- Results : Eighty-eight products from 19 multinational brands were included. Niacinamide leads the top, followed by Avena sativa, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives and Laminaria ochroleuca. Ingredients that can reduce skin inflammation and act on the skin barrier were used in more than half of the products analysed. The clinical studies regarding the active ingredients used in these products remain sparse and lack methodological quality. Among the top ingredients, niacinamide, panthenol and acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester were the only ones studied on volunteers having sensitive skin, while acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester and palmitoyl tripeptide-8 were designed to act on the molecular targets involved in this condition.
- Conclusion : This study reveals the most used active ingredients in cosmetic products for sensitive skin, as well as the scientific evidence supporting their efficacy and the mechanisms of action. This insight is meaningful for dermatologists and other health professionals to provide customized advice based on the symptomatology of individuals with sensitive skin, and for the formulation of cosmetic products and design of new active ingredients. |
| Note de contenu : |
- METHODS : Data collection - Data analysis - Ingredient use and combinations - Top ingredients for sensitive skin - Scientific evidence of active ingredients for sensitive skin - Mechanisms of action
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Ingredient use and combinations - Top ingredients for sensitive skin - Scientific evidence of active ingredients for sensitive skin - Mechanisms of action
- Table 1 : Active ingredients found at INCI lists from analysed products for sensitive skin and their relative usage
- Table 2 : Summary of the top ingredients used for sensitive skin |
| DOI : |
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12754 |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pXO_8nSog6e-XzSdmHiEgsVN2oDohzTp/view?usp=shari [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37266 |
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 1 (02/2022) . - p. 56-73
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Sensitive skin : Active ingredients on the spotlight in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 1 (02/2022)
