Barrier disruption, dehydration and inflammation : Investigation of the vicious circle underlying dry skin / Cécile Bize in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 729-737 Titre : Barrier disruption, dehydration and inflammation : Investigation of the vicious circle underlying dry skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Cécile Bize, Auteur ; Erwan Le Gelebart, Auteur ; Alain Moga, Auteur ; Bruno Payré, Auteur ; Christine Garcia, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 729-737 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Inflammation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Sécheresse cutanée Une xérose est un dessèchement de la peau. Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments. Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Many endogenous or exogenous factors, isolated or combined, can trigger dry skin disorder, leading to a water/lipids-depleted stratum corneum concomitant with uncomfortable rough and scaly skin surface. In a defensive reaction, the alteration of the skin barrier stimulates the production of cytokines to initiate homeostasis restoration but this can also induce an inflammatory response that further weakens the barrier. The two phenomena intertwining one another lead to the creation of a vicious circle, here called Inflamm'dryness, that maintains dry skin state. It is thus very important to investigate biological mechanisms involved in Inflamm'dryness to better manage dry skin. - Methods : A 3D model mimicking dry skin has been developed. Adjustment of tape stripping level allowed to reproduce skin barrier alterations and resulting inflammation involved in dry skin. The effect of Helichrysum stoechas extract on this downward spiral was then investigated to validate the concept. - Results : Tape-stripping permitted to successively remove the cell layers of the stratum corneum: the barrier function was altered and skin was inflamed creating a vicious circle, mimicking very dry skin prone to Inflamm'dryness. Helichrysum stoechas extract was not only able to resolve inflammation but also to reverse concurrently adverse tape-stripping effects and imparted significant structural and functional recovery of the barrier (e.g. on NMF and ceramides levels, TEWL, tissue organization). - Conclusion : This 3D model reproduces Inflamm'dryness vicious circle present in dry skin and highlights the importance of breaking this process to improve dry skin conditions. Helichrysum stoechas extract is a promising active ingredient for the management of dry skin. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Helichrysum stoechas extract - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Inflamm'dryness 3D model - Helichrysum stoechas extract breaks the vicious circle of Inflamm'dryness - Table 1 : Evolution of skin barrier and inflammation markers DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12748 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GSbf9XzqmBbg_WiO611oAsLfiSZBO-gV/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37053 [article]

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Biotechnologies opening new beauty possibilities / Erwan Le Gelebart in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 3 (03/2023)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 3 (03/2023) . - p. 63-65 Titre : Biotechnologies opening new beauty possibilities Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Erwan Le Gelebart, Auteur ; Maud Merlini, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 63-65 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues marines Antiradicalaire Biotechnologie marine Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Industrie cosmétique -- Aspect de l'environnement Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The 'all-natural' trend continues to gain a lot of traction in the global cosmetics market. Ever more consumers demand quality with naturality but also sustainable cosmetic products. In future, these high expectations could merge with new expectations of efficiency, opening the way to biotechnological, sustainable and ultra-efficient solutions that meet the expectations of consumers looking for more advanced solutions. One of the key pillars of sustainability is the environmental aspect with respect and protection of the planet and with the critical goal of biodiversity preservation. In fact, the impact on biodiversity is the third most common information expected by consumers to be displayed on packaging. This for good reasons. Biodiversity is a key indicator of the health of an ecosystem and it is declining fast, mainly due to human activity. Biodiversity is not only an ecological and social responsibility topic but also a business necessity. For ingredient suppliers, biodiversity should be taken into account in the ingredient design process, especially when it tomes to sourcing for the manufacture of natural ingredients. Note de contenu : - Limiting the impact on biodiversity - Celtosome development process - Microalgae ingredients - Opening new possibilities for beauty - Fig. 1 : Schema of Celtosome development process - Fig. 2 : Schema of Celebrity development process - Fig. 3 : Comparison between the immediate efficacy on cellular and mitochondrial free radicals of Ephemer and of sporophyte extract of Undaria pinnatifida En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Co6DkP-0XTjSkXg-13I47fWT_9juwOk0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38983 [article]

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Urban life dermopurifying active ingredient from the sea / Armelle Bergé in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 3 (06/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 3 (06/2017) . - p. 58-60 Titre : Urban life dermopurifying active ingredient from the sea Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Armelle Bergé, Auteur ; Laetitia Cattuzzato, Auteur ; Erwan Le Gelebart, Auteur ; Jérôme Loeuil, Auteur ; Anne-Sophie Dutailly, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 58-60 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Algues marines Biomolécules actives Dermo-cosmétologie Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Peau -- Soins et hygiène Séborrhée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Performed tests approached pollution in different mechanisms and showed consistent protective efficacy of Acrochaetium moniiiforme extract: • Epidermal tells protection from cadmium • Sebaceous gland protection from urban dust • Skin protection from ozone In vitro data on cadmium-stressed keratinocytes showed an interesting protection capacity of Acrochaetium moniliforme extraction on the epidermal mechanical barder, botte protecting directly the cell integrity and downregulating the induction of an inflammatory state. in vitro data on a new specifically designed protocol based on the use of human sebocyte cell line, showed that these cells are highly stimulated by urban dust and react by overproducing lipids. These new insights suggest the existence of a specific biological mechanism in oily skin : reactive sebum due to polluted environment. Acrochaetium moniliforme extract was specifically able to reduce this impact. Finally in vivo data, obtained in a study conducted in an urban polluted environment (Shanghai), confirmed the efficacy of Acrochaetium moniliforme extract, decreasing sebum production and decreasing direct pollution impact on skin (ozonolysed squalene). Thus, through this global protective effect (Fig 6), Acrochaetium moniliforme extract can be proposed as an urban life dermopurifying ingredient in ail kinds of formulation with anti-pollution daims. Thanks to this unique macroalgae tell technology, Seppic is able to create value from this unexplored marine resource and offer it to its customer to get rid of oily skin for long term benefits. Note de contenu : - Halting urban pollution's impact on skin - Ozonolyzed squalene : an innovative pollution marker ; a first in Asia - Clinical regulation of oily skin in polluted environment - FIGURES : 1. Macroalgae cell cultivation, from isolation to freeze dried biomass - 2. Acrochaetium moniliforme (x400) - 3. Different classes of atmospheric pollutants and examples - 4. Regulation of the effects of pollution on sebocytes (in vitro model) - 5. Visible sebum regulation (-34%) in a polluted atmosphere by acrochaetium moniliforme extract - 6. Global protective proerties of acrochaetium moniliforme extract on skin En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j1u1YTER_ji9vb4qD4B41BDey_Y-cBMH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28743 [article]

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