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Complete photo protection - Going beyond visible endpoints / Frank Pflücker in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 131, N° 7 (07/2005)
[article]
Titre : Complete photo protection - Going beyond visible endpoints Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frank Pflücker, Auteur ; Joachim Bünger, Auteur ; Sabine Hitzel, Auteur ; Gabriele Witte, Auteur ; Jörn Beck, Auteur ; Matthias Lergenmüller, Auteur ; Hansjürgen Driller, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 20-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Coup de soleil
Dioxyde de titane
Encapsulation
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Photoprotection
Protection cutanéeIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Consumers and patients are highly interested in sunscreens that offer both a protection against sunburn and suberythemal cell damages. We report the combination of encapsulated UVB filters and the broadband filter Titanium Dioxide together with the cell protection factor Ectoin. The UV filter particles are supposed to work on the outermost skin layers to protect from visible endpoints such as UV-induced erythema. Ectoin additionally work as a second defence line to protect beyond visible endpoints against UV-induced celle damages in the epidermis. Aim of the present study is to investigate whether an encapsulation inhibits the contact of UV filters with the body tissue, leading to an increase of the Margin of Safety. On the other hand the performance of non-penetrating inorganic TiO2 in the UVB and especially in the UVA should be determined. Furthermore we wanted to explore the ability of Ectoin to protect against UV-induced damages, which may also occur before occurence of an erythema. Derma absorption experiments were carried out with encapsulated UV filters. Test show a tremendous reduction (70%) in total dermal absorption of encapsulated UV filters compared to non-encapsulated OMC. Using the biological endpoint persistent pigment darkening (PPD), TiO2 (T-2000, T-S) exhibit a very good UVA protection factor of 8 at a 10% use level, while a sun protection factor (SPF) of approx. SPF 20 can be reached. The protection potential of Ectoin against UVA induced damages can be shown: Ectoin reduces the number of sunburn cells in organo-typical skin equivalents and prevents the destruction of Langerhans cells after UV irradiation of human skin in vivo. In conclusion, encapsulated sunscreens inhibit the contact of UV filters with the body tissue, leading to an increase of the Margin of Safety. Non-penetrating TiO2 offers real broad-spectrum protection (UVA and UVB). Finally Ectoin acts as a second defence line in protecting the skin cells from sub-erythemal UV-induced skin damages. A combination of encapsulated UV fileters, Titanium Dioxide and Ectoin leads to sunscreens that take safety aspects into maximum account. Note de contenu : - UV-PROTECTING AGENTS
- ENCAPSULATED UV FILTERS
- THE CELL PROTECTION FACTOR ECTOIN
- COMPLETE PHOTO PROTECTION CONCEPT
- MATERIAL AND METHODS : In vivo PPD measurements with Titanium Dioxide - In vitro percutaneous absorption study with UV-Pearls - Sun Burn Cell Assay with Ectoin - Langerhans Cell Assay with Ectoin
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS : In vitro percutaneous absorption study of UV-Pearls - In vivo SPF and UVA Performance of Titanium Dioxide - Protection of Sun Burn Cell Assay by Ectoin - Protection of the skin immune system (Langerhans cells) by EctoinPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28119
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 131, N° 7 (07/2005) . - p. 20-30[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 18185 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Effect pigments with customized performance for cosmetics / Kailash M. Mogare in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020)
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Titre : Effect pigments with customized performance for cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kailash M. Mogare, Auteur ; Tushar Navale, Auteur ; Frank Mazzella, Auteur ; Matthias Lergenmüller, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 62-64 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Brillance (optique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Mica
Pigments
Pigments à effets spéciaux
RéflectanceIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In Effect pigments based on natural mica as well as on synthetically prepared substrates such as Synthetic mica, or Silica, Alumina or Borosilicates (Glass flakes), the surface area/particle size plays a crucial role in tailoring effect pigments with desired properties in cosmetic applications. With two pigment series, Sumicosâ„¢ HG ("high-gloss") Line and Prestige® Glow and Glam Line, we have recently build-up a technology to create new effect pigments that provide better chroma, color purity and sparkle in comparison to the conventional effect pigments. The article describes the science behind creating these effect pigments with improved reflectance. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : Reflectance versus wavelength of silver pearls ; conventional natural mica-based silver, glass flake-based silver, natural mica-based intense silver
- Fig. 2 : Whiteness index versus brightness Index of silver pearls in 10-100μ range ; conventional Silver (natural mica-based), Glass flake Silver, intense silver (natural mica-based)
- Fig. 3 : Reflectance versus wavelength of silver pearls in 20-150μ range ; conventional silver (natural mica-based), glass flake-based silver, high gloss silver (natural mica-based) and intense silver (natural mica-based)
- Fig. 4 : Whiteness index versus brightness index of silver pearls in 20-150μ range ; conventional Silver (natural mica-based), glass flake silver, intense silver (natural mica-based)
- Fig. 5 : Comparison of high gloss product vs Non High gloss products ; gloss at 20°, 60° and 85° angles with corresponding SEM images of raw mica that is used to produce the effect pigments (top : high gloss technology, bottom : conventional technology)En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/161pfsbb1roR6lkRi_rMsn6F5zoY6zaaV/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34603
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020) . - p. 62-64[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible