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Can inorganic powders provide any biological benefit in stratum corneum, while residing on skin surface ? / Eriko Kawai in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 4 (10-11-12/2002)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 4 (10-11-12/2002) . - p. 269-275 Titre : Can inorganic powders provide any biological benefit in stratum corneum, while residing on skin surface ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Eriko Kawai, Auteur ; Yoshiyuki Kohno, Auteur ; Katsuki Ogawa, Auteur ; Kenichi Sakuma, Auteur ; Norinobu Yoshikawa, Auteur ; Daisuke Aso, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 269-275 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Activateur de plasminogène Peau -- Soins et hygiène Poudres -- Emploi en cosmétologie Sécheresse cutanée Une xérose est un dessèchement de la peau. Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The plasminogen (Plg) activation system plays a role in the process leading to dry skin with impaired barrier function, and serine protease inhibitors are known to improve dry skin. In this study, we have discovered that a urokinase-type Plg activator (UK), a trigger of the Plg activation system, which was previously believed to work within the epidermis, also exists in stratum corneum (SC). Focusing on the UK reaction in SC, we sought to develop a method of dry skin prevention. First, the removal of UK by adsorption with inorganic powders was investigated. Screening of powders, revealed that silicia and talc afforded superior UK adsorption. Futhermore, zinc oxide showed superior UK inhibition. The combination of these two different powders enabled us to develop the composite powder, "Skin Care Powder" (SCP), which has an excellent performance in both UK adsorption and UK inhibition. The daily application of a powdery foundation containing SCP for 2 months resulted in a significant suppression of increased transepidermal water loss and a better texture compared to the control. Our results demonstrated that certain inorganic powders can bring significant biological benefit to the skin, whilst remaining on the skin surface. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10621 [article]

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Epidermal overexpression of stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme, skin inflammation, and itch / Lennart Hansson in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 4 (10-11-12/2002)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 4 (10-11-12/2002) . - p. 279-283 Titre : Epidermal overexpression of stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme, skin inflammation, and itch Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lennart Hansson, Auteur ; Anders Bergman, Auteur ; Annelii Ny, Auteur ; Elisabeth Ekholm, Auteur ; Torbjorn Egelrud, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 279-283 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Couche cornée Eczéma constitutionnel Peau -- Inflammation Peau -- Maladies Peptidases Prurits Psoriasis Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Identification of tissue-specific mechanisms involved in the pathophysiology of inflammatory skin diseases could offer new possibilities to develop effective therapies with fewer systemic effects. One of the major unmet dermatological problems is itch, which is poorly understood and often difficult to threat. Understanding skin specific targets to identify new technology to ameliorate inflammation and itching is an under researched area but should represent a major market opportunity for both the cosmetic and dermatological industries. Stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) is a serine protease, which is involved in the proteolytic degradation of corneodesmosomes during desquamation and possibly the activation of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as interleukin-1beta. SCCE is preferentially expressed in cornifying epithelia. It is synthesised by keratinocytes, packaged into the lamellar granules and extruded into the intercellular spaces in the stratum corneum together with the barrier lipids. Here we report on increased epidermal expression of SCCE in psoriasis and atopic dermatitis ; two major chronic inflammatory diseases. In atopic dermatitis, which is often associated with allergic diseases such as rhinoconjunctivitis and asthma, itch is a major symptom. We also pretent our findings on transgenic mice expressing human SCCE in suprabasal epidermal keratinocytes that developed pathologic skin changes similar to the human inflammatory diseases with increased epidermal thickness, hyperkeratosis, dermal inflammtion, impaired barrier function and severe pruritus. These findings indicate that SCCE may be involved in the pathogenesis of inflammatory skin diseases and itch, and that it should be evaluated as potential targets for new therapies. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10628 [article]

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A review of the range of effects of niacinamide in human skin / Paul J. Matts in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 4 (10-11-12/2002)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 4 (10-11-12/2002) . - p. 285-289 Titre : A review of the range of effects of niacinamide in human skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Paul J. Matts, Auteur ; John. E Oblong, Auteur ; D. L. Bissett, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 285-289 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Céramides Un céramide est un sphingolipide résultant de la combinaison d'un acide gras avec la sphingosine via une liaison amide. On trouve de telles molécules en abondance dans les membranes cellulaires, où elles entrent notamment dans la constitution des sphingomyélines. Les céramides ne jouent pas qu'un rôle structurel dans les membranes biologiques, et peuvent également revêtir des fonctions de signalisation lipidique. Leurs actions les mieux comprises vont de la différenciation cellulaire à la mort cellulaire programmée (apoptose) en passant par la prolifération cellulaire. Les acides gras qui les constituent ont généralement un nombre pair (de 16 à 24) d'atomes de carbone, sont saturés ou monoinsaturés, et sont souvent α-hydroxylés. La plupart des céramides n'existent pas à l'état naturel si ce n'est comme précurseurs de la biosynthèse des sphingolipides par une réaction d'addition sur la fonction alcool primaire de la sphingosine. (Wikipedia) Nicotinamide Peau Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Niacinamide (also known as nicotinamide, 3-pyridinecarboxamide) is the physiologically active form of niacin or vitamin B3, the deficiency of which results in the nutritional disease pellagra with distinct cutaneous manifestations. Since its discovery and isolation, a host of dermatological therapeutic benefits and mechanisms have also been ascribed to this essential water-soluble vitamin when used as a topical agent. These include its apparent role as an anti-acne active, an up-regulator of epidermal sphingo-lipid synthesis, an up-regulator of markers of epidermal differentiation and dermal proliferation (with concurrent stratum corneum barrrier benefits), and as a moderator of photoimmune suppression and accompanying tumor genesis. More recently, fresh evidence points to a role in modifying the cosmetic appearance of skin through suppression of epidermal melanosome transfer with subsequent effect on skin pigmentation and a role in modifying epidermal surface topography. The mechanisms for these cutaneous effects are still unclear. However, since niacinamide is an important precursor of NADH and NADPH, it has been postulated that topical application of niacinamide can promote this reported broad spectrum of activity through local correction of homeostatic balance of these two nucleotide coenzymes. As there has been a dramatic increase in research into and use of niacinamide in recent years, this review will cover the current scope of knowledge of this important vitamin, including mechanistic understanding and cutaneous physiological activity. Note de contenu : - History of niacinamide - Physiological role of niacinamide - Nicotinamide coenzymes in skin are depleted with age ; niacinamide can help normalize this imbalance - Age fibroblasts secrete less collagen than young cells ; nicaninamide can stimulate new synthese - Niacinamide up-regulates epidermal ceramide synthesis with concurrent epidermal barrier benefits - Niacinamide up-regulates biosynthesis of markers of keratinocyte differentiation - Niacinamide helps prevent UV-induced deleterious molecular and immunological events - Niacinamide inhibits transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes - Regulation of sebaceous lipid and acne by niacinamide - Niacinamide exerts multipl benefits on the appearance of ageing/photodamaged skin in-vivo - Niacinamide is delivered effectively from a range of vehicles and demonstrates excellent skin compatibility Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10629 [article]

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Analysis of human hair fibers by high fidelity, three-dimensional digital volumetric microanalysis : demonstration of cationic oligosaccharide deposition / James V. Gruber in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 4 (10-11-12/2002)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 4 (10-11-12/2002) . - p. 291-294 Titre : Analysis of human hair fibers by high fidelity, three-dimensional digital volumetric microanalysis : demonstration of cationic oligosaccharide deposition Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : James V. Gruber, Auteur ; A. Rivera, Auteur ; S. Wilford, Auteur ; D. Ciccognani, Auteur ; R. Shalvoy, Auteur ; R. Kerschman, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 291-294 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Fluorescence Imagerie tridimensionnelle Oligosaccharides shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Methods for examining cationic polymer deposition on hair are well known and polymers such as Polyquaternium-10 have enjoyed a significant commercial impact on shampoos and body washes as unique conditioning materials. Recently, we began examining the influence of a new lipophilically-modified, cationic material based on glucose oligosaccharides derived from sugar cane. Using a new method of microscopic three-dimensional digital volumetric imaging in combination with fluorescent dye binding, we have examined the deposition of the cationic oligosaccharides onto damaged blond hair fibers. The new microscope analysis technique allows us to examine the areas on the hair fiber where the cationic oligosaccharides tend to gather after application from an anionic shampoo indicating that the oligosaccharides appear to migrate towards the cuticle edges and the cortex in damaged hair. In addition, because of the cuticle’s auto-fluorescence, we have found that the cortex and medulla of the hair appear to be opaque to the microscope’s visualizing system and we are able to manipulate the digital microscopic images to either a.) Eliminate the cortex of the hair fiber, or b.) Eliminate the cuticle of the hair fiber. We believe that this technique will allow a unique opportunity to examine the potential for penetration of fluorescent components (e.g., hair dyes) into the interior of the hair fiber as well as allowing us to examine the presence of the individual melanin particles that are entrained within the hair cortex. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10631 [article]

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New instrument for measuring water vapor flux density from arbitrary surfaces / R. E. Imhof in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 4 (10-11-12/2002)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 4 (10-11-12/2002) . - p. 297-301 Titre : New instrument for measuring water vapor flux density from arbitrary surfaces Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : R. E. Imhof, Auteur ; E. P. Berg, Auteur ; Robert P. Chilcott, Auteur ; L. I. Ciortea, Auteur ; Flavius C. Pascut, Auteur ; P. Xiao, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 297-301 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Couche cornée Perméabilité Transpiration Vapeur d'eau Tags : 'Perte  d'eau  transépidermique'  'Flux  de  vapeur  d'eau'  'Perméabilité  du  stratum  corneum'  TEWL  à  la  surface  peau' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : We report the development of a new instrument, the AquaFlux, for measuring water vapor flux density from arbitrary surfaces, including in-vivo measurements of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin surface water loss (SSWL) and perspiration. It uses a closed measurements chamber equipped with an electronically cooled condenser, to maintain a precisely reproducible microclimate adjacent to the test surface under all ambient conditions. The condenser creates a diffusion vapor density gradient, from which the flux density can be measured. We explore the properties of the AquaFlux by means of a mathematical model, which was also adapted for calculating comparable properties of open-chamber instruments. In this way, we found the intrinsic sensitivity of the AquaFlux to be approximately 40% higher than that of an open-chamber instrument. However, in an experimental comparison of volar forearm TEWL measurements between the AquaFlux and an open-chamber Evaporimeter, we found a tenfold difference in coefficient of variation. We attribute the much lower than predicted sensitivity of the Evaporimeter to extrinsic noise from diffusion zone instability induced by ambient air movements. The mathematical model was also used to calculate the relative humidity immediately above the test surface, where we found values that generally differed from ambient values in both instrument types. The effect of this on TEWL measurements is discussed in detail. It is concluded that, during the relatively short time of measurements, such microclimate changes affect mainly the transient SSWL component rather than the underlying TEWL. Finally, the model was used to estimate the flux density that would cause the relative humidity at the test surface to reach 100%. This sets an upper limit to the flux densities that can be measured and may be a cause of instrument non-linearity at high flux densities, as microclimate saturation is approached. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10632 [article]

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Cosmetics and life sciences : a continuing courtship / Kerryn Greive in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 4 (10-11-12/2002)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 4 (10-11-12/2002) . - p. 303-305 Titre : Cosmetics and life sciences : a continuing courtship Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kerryn Greive, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 303-305 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosméceutique Cosmétiques Sciences de la vie Tags : Cosmetics  'Life  sciences'  Cosmeceuticals  'Maison  g  de  navarre'  History Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : For centuries, cosmetics were the lotions and potions mixed up by wise and knowing grandmothers for the younger generations. They were the magic concoctions of alchemists and apothecaries that would keep the young looking young and return lost youth to the aged. Safety and efficacy were "guaranteed" by the ancient nature of the formulations or the status of the person dispensing them. Today's consumers, however, demand that their cosmetics be proven safe and efficacious. In the last one hundred years the cosmetics industry has been utilizing the life sciences to improve the consumer's trust in its products and gain a market edge. The term "life sciences" covers a range of disciplines including physiology, botany, biochemistry and molecular biology. Each discipline has specifically contributed to our current understanding of the impact of cosmetics on the body at the genetic, cellular and physiological levels. The current testing methods, for example, of sunscreens to determine their Sun Protection Factor is the result of understanding the physiology of the body and its indicative reactions to UV light. The study of botany has enabled the cosmetics industry to not only derive numerous new botanical extracts but also to replace animal source ingredients with equivalent vegetable sources. For example, squalane has traditionally been extracted from sharks, whereas today it can be derived from olives [1]. In the past, the UV absorbing properties of urocanic acid were utilized in sun protection products. Today, as a result of cellular biochemical studies, we know it to be a carcinogen. As a result of the involvment of the life sciences with cosmetics, we can be increasingly confident in the safety and efficacy of our cosmetics. But this has not always been the case. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10633 [article]

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