Mitophagy activation - a novel anti-ageing cosmetic target / Emilio Rubio in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 6 (06/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 6 (06/2017) . - p. 2-9 Titre : Mitophagy activation - a novel anti-ageing cosmetic target Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Emilio Rubio, Auteur ; Miguel Perez-Aso, Auteur ; Jordi Bosch, Auteur ; Ricard Armengol, Auteur ; Blanca Martinez-Teipel, Auteur ; Hagen Döring, Auteur ; Esther Seco, Auteur ; Ana Serrano-Puebla, Auteur ; Patricia Boya, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 2-9 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Dermo-cosmétologie Mitophagie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Mitophagy is a selective quality control process that targets and degrades damaged mitochondria. Mitophagy is impaired with age, contributing to mitochondrial and cellular dysfunction. Therefore, we hypothesized that boosting mitophagy would keep oxidative toxicity in check and recover function in aged skin cells, thus leading to a visible rejuvenation effect in vivo. Compounds were screened for mitophagy in SH-SY5Y cells with a nove] flow cytometry-based approach. We identified a combination of Paeoniflorin and Trehalose (PF/TH) that synergisticaily induced mitochondrial renewal through mitophagy activation. This activity was confirmed in Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts (NHDF). A set of assays on NHDF and senescent human dermal fibroblasts were designed to explore cellular responses to mitophagy activation by PF/TH. Our results revealed an anti-ageing activity profile, via restoring collagen to levels found in young cells and reversing other characteristic ageing signs : ATP decrease, MMP-1 release and 8-galactosidase positive cells. Fibroblasts also became more resilient towards mitochondrial damage and oxidative stress, as showed by insults with CCCP and pyrogallol. Finally, a clinical study on aged volunteers confirmed rejuvenating effects achieved by FP/TH active. These results support mitophagy activation as a target for cosmetic anti-ageing applications. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : In vitro studies - Clinical study - RESULTS : Mitochondrial recycling : mitophagy - Mitochondrial quality : mitochondrial membrane potential - Mitochondrial function AT° - Oxidative stress - Senescence in ageing models - Ageing markers - In vivo rejuvenating effects En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_B4ZN6mvGEsUbrczqA5DjXlEoyp-ZKT2/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28726 [article]

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Nature's know-how and plant cell technology to combat infrared- and ultraviolette-induced photoaging / Hagen Döring in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 11 (11/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 11 (11/2016) . - p. 2-8 Titre : Nature's know-how and plant cell technology to combat infrared- and ultraviolette-induced photoaging Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hagen Döring, Auteur ; Emilio Rubio, Auteur ; Miguel Perez-Aso, Auteur ; Blanca Martinez-Teipel, Auteur ; Jordi Bosch, Auteur ; Ricard Armengol, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 2-8 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Antiâge:Antirides Antioxydants Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Vieillissement cutané -- Prévention Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The term Photoaging describes the ageing process of our skin that is caused by ultraviolet (UV) and infrared (IR) solar radiation. UV - and IR - induced damage to our skin includes, but is not limited to, DNA alterations, an increased level of cellular oxidative stress and inflammatory reaction in our skin. All of these processes lead to premature ageing and poor biomechanical characteristics. Our laboratory has developed the active ingredient Lingostem, which is based on a polyphenolrich lingonberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaea) cell line. The anti-oxidative capacity was 11 times higher than that of the natural berries. Lingostem counteracts the negative effects of IR and UV radiation by potentiating the antioxidant response, decreasing the inflammatory reaction and reducing MMP-1 production. Two independent in vivo studies showed the protective and restorative capacity of Lingostem. Especially impressive were the improvement of the sub-epidermal echogenic band and a significant wrinkle reduction relative to placebo. Note de contenu : - PLANT CELL TECHNOLOGY - METHODS : DPPH Free Radical Scavenging activity - Cell Culture and Irradiation Conditions - Quantitative RT-PCR after UV-B Irradiation - Evaluation of p38 phosphorylation after IR-A Irradiation - Evaluation of Hydrogen Peroxide Production after IR-A Irradiation - Quantitative RT-PCR: MMP-1 after IR-A Irradiation - In vivo Photoaging Studies - RESULTS : DPPH Free Radical Scavenging Activity - Anti-inflammatory Effect after UV-B: Quantitative RT-PCR - Effect on p38 Activation Induced by IR-A - Cellular Oxidative Stress: Evaluation of Hydrogen Peroxide after IR-A Irradiation - Effect on Gene Expression after IR-A Irradiation: MMP-1 - In vivo Photoaging Studies En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mmwV2v9Rv8QgRNfIXQoI1tfq43a1Pdjf/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=27851 [article]

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Not beauty is the key to happiness – Happiness is the key to beauty ! / Hagen Döring in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 9 (09/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 9 (09/2020) . - p. 14-17 Titre : Not beauty is the key to happiness – Happiness is the key to beauty ! Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hagen Döring, Auteur ; Miguel Perez-Aso, Auteur ; Blanca Martinez-Teipel, Auteur ; Jordi Bosch, Auteur ; Angela Roca, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 14-17 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bien-être Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Epigénétique L'épigénétique (mot-valise de "épigenèse" et "génétique") est la discipline de la biologie qui étudie la nature des mécanismes modifiant de manière réversible, transmissible (lors des divisions cellulaires) et adaptative l'expression des gènes sans en changer la séquence nucléotidique (ADN) "Alors que la génétique correspond à l'étude des gènes, l'épigénétique s’intéresse à une "couche" d’informations complémentaires qui définit comment ces gènes vont être utilisés par une cellule ou… ne pas l'être". "C'est un concept qui dément en partie la "fatalité" des gènes". Fibroblastes Fruit du moine Le fruit de moine ou fruit du moine (Siraitia grosvenorii), est une plante grimpante pérenne originaire du sud de la Chine. C'est l'une des quatre espèces du genre Siraitia. Il est connu sous le synonyme de Momordica grosvenorii et Thladiantha grosvenorii. Les autres espèces du genre Siraitia sont Siraitia siamensis poussant en Thaïlande, Siraitia sikkimensis et Siraitia silomaradjae poussant en Inde, et Siraitia taiwaniana poussant à Taïwan. La plante pousse de 3 à 5 m de long, s'élevant verticalement en s'accrochant et en s'enroulant sur les autres végétaux. Les feuilles en forme de cÅ“ur font de 10 à 20 cm de long. Le fruit de forme ovale de 5 à 7 cm de diamètre contient une pulpe sucrée, comestible ainsi que de nombreuses graines. Son fruit est plus connu sous son nom chinois luo han guo (罗汉果, 羅漢果, luóhàn guǒ, "fruit du arhat"). Un extrait du fruit est 300 fois plus sucré que le saccharose et est utilisé comme édulcorant naturel alimentaire et un ingrédient de la médecine chinoise traditionnelle. Des hétérosides au pouvoir sucrant intense, le mogroside V, mogroside IV et le siamenoside I qui sont responsables du goût sucré du fruit. Hydratation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In an environment that promotes overall wellbeing as a life philosophy, our laboratory wanted to ascertain what impact the use of a skincare product containing a new active ingredient would have on people’s emotions. This novel ingredient is based on the Monk fruit (Momordica grosvenorii) which is cultivated in a mountain valley in Guangxi, a place known by the striking longevity and happiness of its inhabitants. Since emotions are directly linked to the subconscious, the intention was to measure objectively the emotional impact of using this active ingredient in a cosmetic application. To do so, our laboratory used scientific rigour and Artificial Intelligence (AI) taking into account such subconscious evaluations. But overall wellbeing is seen as integrative beauty that embraces both the emotional health and the physical aspect. Consequently, our laboratory also took a closer look at the causes for aging. While many people say it is all in the genes, Epigenetics suggests that not everything is genetically predisposed. Lifestyle has a major impact and maintaining good habits like exercising, eating plenty of fruits and vegetables, not smoking, and drinking alcohol in moderation can have very positive effects on the aging process. Note de contenu : - Introduction : Epigenetics - Results of the in vitro and ex vivo efficacy study - Results of the in vivo efficacy study : Study I (physical assessments) - Study II (emotional responses) - Fig. 1 : Changes in HA and decorin in skin explants treated with the active. Upper row, explants in basal conditions and the lower row, explants with the active - Fig. 2 : Evolution of neck wrinkles reduction in volunteer 29 - Fig. 3 : Representative AEVA 3D reconstruction of the reduction in crow's feet after 56 days treatment with the active (volunteer 34) - Fig. 4 : Percentage of volunteers choosing the positive and top answer in both conscious and subconscious responses. Possible answers were : totally agree, somewhat agree, somewhat disagree and totally disagree for the two bottom statements whereas for enthusiasm was yes or not. Dark bars are the active and light bars are placebo En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jf2n9tEH0O6cUy2RQt7wUv5KGc9nTYf0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34623 [article]

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Power of white flowers for multifunctional eye care / Hagen Döring in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 4 (09/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 4 (09/2019) . - p. 33-36 Titre : Power of white flowers for multifunctional eye care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hagen Döring, Auteur ; Miguel Perez-Aso, Auteur ; Blanca Martinez-Teipel, Auteur ; Jordi Bosch, Auteur ; Angela Roca, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 33-36 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits de beauté masculins Soins de beauté masculins Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : It is said that we only have three seconds to make a positive first impression and we rarely have a second chance. Considering that the first thing we look at is the eyes of another person, it is no wonder that one of the principal aesthetic concerns is the eye contour. According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, eyelid rejuvenation is the fourth most popular type of plastic surgery, and the most requested among men. The natural active Eye'fective derived from two white flowers, Crataegus monogyna (Hawthorn) and Jasminum Sambac (Arabian jasmine) is a multifunctional active with "eye triangle care" effect. It has been successfully demonstrated that the active is able to decrease vascular permeability to avoid the accumulation of components that darken the skin tone. In addition, it improves blood flow, increases bilirubin degradation, reduces melanin content and thus has a lightening effect on dark circles. In vivo studies confirm the improvement of blood circulation in the eye contour and a reduction of dark circles with excellent results in just 14 days. In the same period, the active also has a lifting effect on the upper eyelid and flattens the wrinkles in the crow's-feet area. As a consequence, Eye'fective minimises the appearances of dark circles and under eye pigmentation, provides treatment against blotches and improves skin smoothness in the periorbital area for a denser and refreshed skin with a younger look. Note de contenu : - WHITE FLOWERS TO REVITALISE THE EYE CONTOUR : Why dark circles ? - Microcirculation - Accumulation of melanin - Glycation - Why droopy eyelids ? - White flowers for a radiant look - MULTI-FUNCTIONAL EFFECTS OF HAWTHORN AND ARABIAN JASMINE : Vascular effects - Melanin content - Collagen synthesis and glycation inhibition - EYE TRIANGLE CARE EFFECTS : Reduction of dark circles - Eyelid lifting effect En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/18RfP4GAEamAkyWuH2Hinzm7zW0MnYZCh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33147 [article]

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The essence of white flowers for multifunctional eye care / Hagen Döring in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 6 (06/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 6 (06/2019) . - p. 14-18 Titre : The essence of white flowers for multifunctional eye care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hagen Döring, Auteur ; Miguel Perez-Aso, Auteur ; Blanca Martinez-Teipel, Auteur ; Jordi Bosch, Auteur ; Angela Roca, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 14-18 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Anticernes Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Our laboratory has developed an active, derived from Crataegus monogyna (Hawthorn) and Jasminum sambac (Arabian jasmine), which act in conjunction to create a multi-functional effect on the eye contour. It has been successfully demonstrated that the active is able to decrease vascular permeability to avoid the accumulation of components that darken the skin tone. In addition it improves blood flow, increases bilirubin degradation and thus has a lightening effect on dark circles. In vivo studies confirm the improvement of blood circulation in the eye contour and a reduction of dark circles with excellent results in just 14 days. In the same period, the active also has a lifting effect on the upper eyelid and smoothes wrinkles in the crow-feet area. The natural active Eye'fectiveTM derived from two white flowers can strongly be recommended as an active ingredient with excellent activity that improves the appearance of the eye contour area. The ingredient can be used in China rand is compliant with natural cosmetics labels. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Why dark circles ? (Microcirculation - Accumulation of melanin - Glycation) - Why droopy eyelids ? - WHITE FLOWERS FOR A RADIANT LOOK - PROOF OF CONCEPT : Effect on vascular conditions of the eye contour (Vascular permeability - Bilirubin degradation) - Decrease of melamin in the eye contour - Improvement of collagen in the skin (Collagen synthesis - Inhibition of the accumulation of glycation products) - PROOF OF ACTIVITY : Reduction of dark circles - Eyelid lifting effect - Complementary anti-wrinkle activity En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q2HCQXSGhnx9AgHcQBiHcrDhyVWnzlO7/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32733 [article]

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