Free radicals induce Acne aestivalis in sensitive subjects / Katinka Jung in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 5 (11/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 5 (11/2018) . - P. 66-69 Titre : Free radicals induce Acne aestivalis in sensitive subjects Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Katinka Jung, Auteur ; Thomas Herrling, Auteur ; Ulrike Heinrich, Auteur ; Hagen Tronnier, Auteur ; Marcel Schnyder, Auteur ; Bernd Herzog, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : P. 66-69 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique... Etudes cliniques Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Physiopathologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Radicaux libres (chimie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The market segment of sun care products to protect sensitive skin is growing. There is evidence that peroxide free radicals derived from certain formulation components are involved in inducing allergic skin reactions. These UV-induced free radicals can be assessed by an ESR-based method called Radical Potential (RP), by exposing formulations to UV radiation. BASF experts found a correlation between the amount of UV-inducible peroxides in sunscreen products and the clinical symptoms of Acne aestivalis and, potentially, other types of skin reactions. Their findings offer a rationale for developing low-risk sunscreen formulations by selecting suitable filter systems combined with in-situ ESR analysis. Note de contenu : - Assessing the radical potential - Radical Potential method - Clinical study - Fig. 1 : Free radical generation in a cosmetic formulation (placebo) spiked with natural oil or perfume oils (PO) - Fig. 2 : Score evaluation of the clinical study - Table 1 : INCI of the SPF 30 sunscreen formulas 12-1 and 12-2 - Table 2 : Relative amount of free radicals, N=2 - Table 3 : Part 1 : Score value - Table 4 : Evaluation of the adverse skin reaction of treated subjects where 24 is the sum of the highest possible skin reaction (score value 4 x 6 subjects) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/178PeTFtn_HAAy0Wm8IK12VbwvVj8V1qs/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31287 [article]

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High levels of free radicals in suncare products induce acne aestivalis in sensitive subjects / Katinka Jung in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016) . - p. 2-8 Titre : High levels of free radicals in suncare products induce acne aestivalis in sensitive subjects Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Katinka Jung, Auteur ; Thomas Herrling, Auteur ; Ulrike Heinrich, Auteur ; Hagen Tronnier, Auteur ; Marcel Schnyder, Auteur ; Bernd Herzog, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 2-8 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique... Cosmétiques -- Toxicologie Peau -- Inflammation Produits antisolaires Radicaux libres (chimie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The market segment of suncare products for protection of sensitive skin against photodermatosis is growing. Speciflcally, proection against Acne aestivalis ("Mallorca-Acne") is perceived as a strong claim for this product category. There is evidence that peroxide free radicals, deriving from certain formulation components, are involved in the induction of photo-toxic skin reactions. These UV-incluced free radicals can be assessed by an ESR-based method called Radical Potential (RP), by exposing formulations to UV radiation. The aim of this study was to find a correlation between the amount of UV inducible peroxides of sunscreen products and the clinical symptoms of Acne aestivalis. Two sunscreen formulas (SPF 30) containing organic UV-filters only, with an identical protection in the UV B region and a comparable protection in the UV A spectral range, have been produced. For both formulations the amount of UV-inducible free radicals was assessed by the RP (Radical Potential). In addition, bath formulas were tested in a clinical study with subjects with a history of Acne aestivalis. Very different RP values (levels of UV-induced free radicals) and completely different skin reactivity have been obtained, where an excellent correlation between the in vitro-parameter (RP) and the clinical symptoms could be shown. To our knowledge these results for the first time provide direct evidence for a strong correlation between UV inducible free radicals of formulations and the potential to induce A. aestivalis in sensitive subjects. Furthermore it offers a nationale for the development of law risk sunscreen formulations by selection of suitable filter systems combined with in situ ESR analysis. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xcreNyUK6raAM1sApbAVUsl5N9UabkIH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26668 [article]

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How to overcome the new challenges in sun-care / Myriam Sohn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020) . - p. 2-12 Titre : How to overcome the new challenges in sun-care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Myriam Sohn, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur ; Marcel Schnyder, Auteur ; Stephanie Acker, Auteur ; Mechtild Petersen-Thiery, Auteur ; Sascha Pawlowski, Auteur ; Bernd Herzog, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 2-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Ethylhexyl Méthoxycinanamate Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques -- Suppression ou remplacement Octocrylène Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sunscreen producers and UV filter manufacturers are currently facing urgent challenges. On the one hand, the legal situation of two widely used UVB filters Ethylhexyl Methoxycinanamate (EHMC) and Octocrylene (OCR) is unclear due to rising concerns on their safety for humans and the environment; on the other hand, the image of nano particulate UV filters is downgraded in the press and by digital apps questioning their safety profile without scientifically based evidence. Some producers pro-actively remove these UV filters from their new sunscreens' developments which is a real challenge in terms of performance achievement. This paper aims to provide UV filter system alternatives for developing efficient sunscreens without EHMC and OCR. Additionally, it clarifies the safety situation of nano-particulate UV filters and explains their usefulness in sunscreens, providing, however, UV filter system alternatives. Furthermore, this manuscript presents a calculation method to assess the impact of a UV filter combination on the environment and shows that it is possible to develop eco-sustainable sunscreens. Though, each restriction in the choice of UV filters will imply certain compromises. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Formulations for octocrylene and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate free systems - Measurement of free radicals - Blue light transmittance measurements - Assessment of the EcoSun pass value - RESULTS : Sunscreens without octocrylene and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate - Nano particulate UV filters in sunscreens - Environmental impact of sunscreens - Fig. 1 : Photostability profile of a) Photostable UVA and b) Partly stabilized UVA sunscreens ; irradiation performed as described in ISO24443:2012 - Fig. 2 : Specific UV extinction E (1,1) for different particle size of TBPT - Table 1 : Investigated UV filter combinations for sunscreens without EHMC and OCR - Table 2 : Maximum authorized concentration and status of European approved UV filters - Table 3 : INCI, efficacy E (1,1) max and handling of alternative UVB filters in Europe - Table 4 : SPF, UVA-PF, and generated free radicals (%) of DHHB or BMDBM based UV filter combinations - Table 5 : Features of nano and some soluble registered UV filters - Table 6 : UV combinations without nano filters for SPF 30, 50 and 50+ with a ratio UVA-PF/SPF of at least 1/3 - Table 7 : Ecosun Pass value and SPF of five UV filters combinations En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O3nEeRuS9ZgrfESGbXfMJxKbSBGJjGCi/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34614 [article]

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Impact of photostability and UVA/UVA-blue light protection on free radical generation / Myriam Sohn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019) . - p. 2-10 Titre : Impact of photostability and UVA/UVA-blue light protection on free radical generation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Myriam Sohn, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur ; Marcel Schnyder, Auteur ; Katinka Jung, Auteur ; Marietta Seifert, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 2-10 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Analyse Evaluation Formulation (Génie chimique) Lumière bleue Mesure Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Protection cutanée Radicaux libres (chimie) Rayonnement ultraviolet A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The impact of UV-filter combination on the number of free radicals generated in sunscreen formulations and the skin following UV-VIS irradiation was assessed via electron spin resonance spectroscopy using a spin-probing approach. Four UV-filter combinations that differed in their photostability and range of UVA absorbance coverage were investigated. Fewer free radicals were generated in the sunscreen formulation when a photostable UVA filter system was used, compared to a stabilized UVA filter system. Additionally, fewer free radicals were generated in the skin when a sunscreen with long UVA protection extending to the short visible range was used, compared to a sunscreen with minimal UVA protection. This study showed that the photostability of a UV-filter system is central to the generation of free radicals in a formulation, and that long UVA-blue light protection is key for avoiding the generation of free radicals in the skin. A sunscreen product exhibiting both photostable UVA protection and long UVA-blue light protection is therefore the most appropriate choice for protecting against ROS-induced skin damage. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Sunscreen formulations - Measurement of free radicals - UV and blue light transmittance measurements with photostability assessment - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Photostability profile of investigated sunscreen formulations - Absorbance profile of organic particulate UV filters - Table 1 : Chassis of the sunscreen formulations used in both studies - Table 2 : Composition of UV-filter combinations in % by weight - Table 3 : Relative quantity of free radicals, N = 2 - Table 4 : Means and standard deviations for N = 3-5 - Fig. 1 : Photostability profile of the investigated sunscreens - Fig. 2 :Free radical formation in the unstable sunscreens as a function of UV irradiation time. Data fitted with a Boltzmann sigmoidal algorithm - Fig. 3 : Long UVA-blue light transmittance of Tinosorb M and Tinosorb A2B at 4%, 7% and 10% - Fig. 4 : UVA-blue light transmittance of UV-filter combinations with varying quantities of particulate organic UV filters : from O% (top curve), to 5.25% (middle curve) and 13.5% of organic particulate UV filters En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pU6mF1OhvWam8jSEoNvLW2xn5Gu1dzrM/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32927 [article]

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Nano or non-nano the key aspect of the measurement method / Myriam Sohn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022) . - p. 2-9 Titre : Nano or non-nano the key aspect of the measurement method Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Myriam Sohn, Auteur ; Wendel Wohlleben, Auteur ; Philipp Müller, Auteur ; Denis Botin, Auteur ; Marcel Schnyder, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur ; Stephanie Acker, Auteur ; Bernd Herzog, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 2-9 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Dioxyde de titane Formulation (Génie chimique) Granulométrie Ingrédients cosmétiques Mesure Microscopie électronique en transmission Nanoparticules Oxyde de zinc Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Despite the UV performance benefits of particulate UV filters, concerns have been raised over their potential percutaneous permeation leading to the requirement of a specific approval for all nano UV filters in Europe. Under the legally binding definition of the Cosmetic regulation No. 1223/2009, nanomaterial means […] a material […] on the scale from 1 to 100 nm. The recommendation of the European Commission (2011/696/EU) revised 10 of June 2022 (2022/C229/01) further specifies that a material is nano when at least 50% of the number size distribution of the constituent particles is comprised between 1 and 100 nm. The situation for Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide is confusing since the constituent particles are often part of agglomerates. Some suppliers clearly specify the nano feature of their material, while others declare the non-nano property of their inorganic products. The objective of this study was, therefore, to measure the number-based particle size distribution of three marketed Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide grades using the decision support flow scheme devised by the NanoDefine project. This group was created to support the identification of nanomaterials as required by the European legislation. We employed the tier 1 method asymmetrical flow field-flow fractionation (AF4) coupled with UV and IC-PMS (inductively coupled plasma mass spectroscopy) detectors and tier 2 method transmission electron microscopy (TEM). The study clearly taught that the samples that appeared to be non-nanomaterials with AF4-IC-PMS measurements were finally proven to be nanomaterials using the TEM tier 2 method. Relying only on tier 1 methodologies such as AF4, X-Ray Disc Centrifuge or Dynamic Light Scattering to determine the non-nano property of a material is insufficient, since tier 1 methods are not able to detect constituent particles as part of agglomerates, which is often the case for Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. The status of being a non-nanomaterial can, in this case, only be certified with a tier 2 technique, particularly electron microscopy. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Samples of inorganic UV filters - Sunscreen market product - Particle size measurement methods - RESULTS : Asymmetrical flow field-flow fractionation - Transmission Electron MIcroscopy En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cR6X6diZiXzgjg00_rZyAvVldN9PMu8l/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37924 [article]

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Performance, safety and sustainability - All in tris-biphenyl triazine / Myriam Sohn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021)  

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