[article]
| Titre : |
Analysis of 'The trilogy of lifting' |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2020 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 167-172 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Antiâge:Antirides
Biomolécules actives
Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
Wrinkle minimization is the Holy Grail of cosmetic actives development. Since the creation of the first anti-aging formulations, the topic has been explored from every angle.
The easiest way is of course to cover the skin with foundations to hide those unattractive features of skin ageing. But besides this use of camouflage, there is more which can be done. To understand how to improve or preserve the youthful appearance of the skin we need to know about its underlying biology.
The skin is composed basically of three layers: the subcutaneous adipose tissue, the dermis and the epidermis, which protects the body from the environment. Wrinkles only develop in the dermis and epidermis. Because of this, it is important to keep these tissues in a juvenile state.
The dermis is a very strong and resilient tissue, which is responsible for the skin’s firmness and elasticity as well as its hydration. You can think of it in terms of a piece of leather as that is what it actually is; a tightly packed protein mesh consisting mainly of collagen,1 which is responsible for the firmness together with elastin, which is responsible for the elasticity. This tissue is supplemented by moisture-retaining molecules such as hyaluronic acid and proteoglycans.
The epidermis is even stronger than the dermis and is held together by a huge network of keratin that forms interconnections between the cells of the upper epidermis.
It is easy to understand that the firm and elastic skin we had in our childhood requires sufficient quantities of the important components and that any decrease in these, e.g. in collagen and elastin, will affect the restoring potential of the skin. You can readily observe this in real life: if you pinch the skin of a child on the back of their hand, you will see that the skin retracts immediately when you let it go. In contrast, when you do the same to a person aged 80 years and older, this can take up to a minute or even longer.
Wrinkles appear at regions where the dermal proteins collagen and elastin are less dense and where the connectivity of the dermis with the epidermis is weakened. This does not happen by chance but is the result of continuous repeated mechanical forces acting on the skin. The first mechanical forces that do this are involved in movement and as a result, the very first wrinkles we have are on the joints of our fingers and palms that are already there when we are born. So, whatever moves will cause wrinkles to develop and therefore our facial expressions will make wrinkles appear on our face sooner or later.
Rahn has developed three solutions in its Liftonin® range to fight wrinkles using completely different approaches :
1. Liftonin-Xpress, the instant wrinkle minimizer that employs a surface-acting biopolymer blend.
2. Liftonin for alabaster-like skin is an epidermal astringent thanks to the tannins it contains while it also stabilizes the dermal structure by providing bioavailable silicon.
3. Liftonin-Xpert Eco, the smart and ecological collagen manager improves dermal density by delivering the perfect amount of additional youth collagen. |
| Note de contenu : |
- Instant wrinkle minimizer
- Functional ingredients and efficacy : Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) - Pullulan - Porphyridium Cruentum Extract
- For alabaster-like skin
- Functional ingredients and efficacy : Tannins and tannic acid: natural astringents derived from oak gallnut - Millet Seed Extract: bioavailable silicon for strong connective tissue
- Smart collagen management
- Functional ingredients and efficacy : Mannan from Bulbine frutescensleaf juice
- Formulation : Ageless eye serum |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19rAZjKHvb_qE3DJKUPeHMox36O_ah7W5/view?usp=drive [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33970 |
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 167-172
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Analysis of 'The trilogy of lifting' in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)
