| Titre : |
Submicron particles from lipid mixtures as safe and efficient carrier systems for the active ingredient retinol |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Sabilla Zhong, Auteur ; Florence Olechowski, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2018 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 24-28 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Antiâge
Biomolécules actives
Cosmétiques
Diffusion (physique)
Encapsulation
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Lipides
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Vitamine A
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
Dermal active substances, in particular anti-aging ingredients, find frequent use in cosmetics for their beneficial effects on the skin. But they can only have these effects if they are bioavailable. That means that the substance must efficiently penetrate the skin in a meaningful and effective concentration. Furthermore, the substance must be protected from degradation due to external influences such as light or oxygen, both as a raw material and in formulation. Retinol is a highly effective antioxidant and has long been known as an anti-aging ingredient. However, its chemical instability makes it a challenge for formulators. Furthermore, in high concentrations retinol causes skin irritation and redness. Retinol can be stabilised to a substantial degree by embedding it in a semi-crystalline, unordered matrix of selected solid and liquid lipids in the form of submicron particles in an aqueous suspension. This also gives efficient, controlled penetration of retinol from the particles into the skip over a prolonged period, minimising skin irritation. At the same time, with their effective adhesion to the skin, the lipid particles help restore the damaged skin barder. This adhesive property also has the benefit of extending the release of retinol. The particles are in solid state at skin temperature and they are stabilised in suspension. |
| Note de contenu : |
- SUBMICRON LIPID PARTICLES AS CARRIER SYSTEMS
- STRUCTURE AND PROPERTIES OF SUBMICRON LIPID PARTICLES, AND THE PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL STABILISATION OF RETINOL
- MODE OF OPERATION OF CARRIER SYSTEMS BASED ON SUBMICRON LIPID PARTICLES : Transport of retinol into the skin - Restoration of the natural skin barrier - Avoidance of retinol side effects (irritation)
- APPLICATION AND FORMULATION
- FIGURES : 1. Schematic structure of a BergaCare SmartLipid, the latest generation of lipid-based carrier systems - 2. X-ray diffraction diagrams of submicron lipid particles based on a single lipid and particles based on multiple lipids (BergaCare SmartLipids), immediately after manufacture and after storage - 3. Stabilisation of retinol by a carrier system of submicron lipid lipid particles versus stabilisation of retinol in a nanoemulsion - 4. Schematic view of dermal transport of retinol by means of submicron lipid particle carrier systems - 5. Reduction in retinol-induced skin reddening in the face through the application of a dermal formulation with encapsulated retinol in the form of submicron lipid particles
- TABLES : 1. Technical aspects of submicron lipid particles loaded with retinol (BergaCare SmartLipids Retinol) - 2. Base for a highly effective, moisturising anti-aging serum with submicron lipid particles containing retinol |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PJL3psy7kJi_5iVlamzfFkRp-BfQW6yn/view?usp=drive [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30352 |
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018) . - p. 24-28
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Submicron particles from lipid mixtures as safe and efficient carrier systems for the active ingredient retinol in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018)
