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N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline – A potent skin anti-ageing active preventing advanced glycation end-product formation in vitro and ex vivo / Chiara Knoblich in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)
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Titre : N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline – A potent skin anti-ageing active preventing advanced glycation end-product formation in vitro and ex vivo Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Chiara Knoblich, Auteur ; Katja Dunckelmann, Auteur ; Andrea Krüger, Auteur ; Thomas Küper, Auteur ; Thomas Blatt, Auteur ; Julia M. Weise, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 297-306 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Dermo-cosmétologie
Glycation
N-acétyl-L-hydroxyproline
Peau -- Anatomie
Peau -- Physiologie
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) represent a large group of compounds generated by a non-enzymatic reaction between reducing sugars and amino groups. The formation and accumulation of AGEs in the skin lead to protein crosslinking, dermal stiffening and yellowing, which ultimately contribute to cutaneous ageing. Amino acids have been described to exhibit anti-glycation effects. The objective of this study was to understand the inhibitory role of the amino acid derivative N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline (NAHP) as an anti-glycation active for human skin.
- Methods : A cell-free assay investigating the inhibition of glycation of serum albumin by NAHP was used to determine the capability of NAHP to decrease AGE formation. Also, by assessing the amount of the AGE N-(carboxymethyl)lysine (CML) the anti-glycation abilities of NAHP were investigated utilizing dot blot analysis. The improvement of cell–matrix interaction by NAHP was determined in vitro using a glycated fibroblast-populated collagen lattice (FPCL) dermis model. In skin biopsies, AGE autofluorescence was determined after treatment with NAHP and/or glucose ex vivo.
- Results : NAHP significantly and dose-dependently inhibited levels of AGEs, which were induced by the glycation of a protein solution. This decrease could be visualized by showing that the brownish appearance as well as the AGE-specific fluorescence of glucose-treated samples were reduced after the application of increasing amounts of NAHP. Also, CML formation was dose-dependently inhibited by NAHP. In FPCLs, the contractile capacity of fibroblasts was significantly disturbed after glycation. This could be prevented by the addition of NAHP. Compared to glyoxal-treated samples, the co-application of NAHP significantly decreased the diameter as well as the weight of glycated FPCLs. Ex vivo application of glucose to skin explants showed a higher AGE fluorescence signal compared to control explants. Co-treatment with NAHP and glucose decreased the level of AGE fluorescence in comparison to glucose-treated explants.
- Conclusion : These data provide clear evidence that under glycation stress conditions treatment with NAHP inhibited AGE formation in vitro and ex vivo and prevented the loss of cellular contractile forces in a glycated dermis model. Thus, NAHP obviously provides a beneficial treatment option to counteract AGE-related changes in human skin such as dermal stiffening and yellowish skin appearance.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Prevention of AGE formation by NAHP in a cell-free in vitro assay - Inhibition of N-(carboxymethyl)lysine formation by NAHP using the dot blot technique - Determination of cell–matrix interaction in a glycated fibroblast-populated collagen lattice - Ex vivo visualization of AGEs in skin biopsies - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : Prevention of AGE formation by NAHP in a cell-free in vitro assay - Inhibition of CML formation by NAHP using the dot blot technique - Determination of cell–matrix interaction in a glycated fibroblast-populated collagen lattice - Ex vivo visualization of AGEs in skin biopsiesDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12930 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vF_6aZA2RCxT_9ox8Z8TUSxRvd8PnVXf/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40913
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 297-306[article]Nannoplankton bioactive for eye contour repair / Pilar Aguila in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 25, N° 3 (03/2024)
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Titre : Nannoplankton bioactive for eye contour repair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Pilar Aguila, Auteur ; Juan Pablo de la Roche, Auteur ; Arancha Barata, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 67-70 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides
Biomolécules actives
Biotechnologie marine
Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
PhytoplanctonIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In the open ocean, marine life thrives in a fragile balance of crystalline, nutrient-poor waters. There, a micro-ecosystem known as nannoplankton flourishes by producing molecules such as polyphenols, saccharides, and enzymes that protect their cells from photodamage and marine pollution. MC Actives and Microalgae Solutions have developed OpenSee Phycoskin®, a marine nannoplankton extract for eye contour repair. The bioactive molecules of this marine ingredient improve skin integrity by addressing the probtems induced by the natural ageing process and the impact of extrinsic factors that lead to thinning of the skin, accumulation of water and fat, and impairment of the skin's epidermal and dermal structures. Its amazing 360° effect reduces eye bags, wrinkles, drooping eyelids, and dark circles. Note de contenu : - How marine molecules can restore eye-contour beauty
- A novel 360° eye-contour marine ingredient
- Tips for formulators
- Fig. 1 : Mechanism of action of the marin ingredient
- Fig. 2 : Proteomic profile of the marine ingredient. SAF : Spectral Abundance Factor
- Table 1 : Molecules found in nannoplankton with cosmetic efficacy to fight against signs around the eye. Molecules found in the marine ingredient
- Table 2 : Example of formulation of an eye contour with the marine ingredientEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DXAwSBClCHp5eLZOKxHRcBDbEme2biwD/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40896
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 25, N° 3 (03/2024) . - p. 67-70[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 24515 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Natural active provides multiple benefits / Johane Guay in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 3, N° 1 (03/2010)
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Titre : Natural active provides multiple benefits Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Johane Guay, Auteur Année de publication : 2010 Article en page(s) : p. 59-64 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Biomolécules actives
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Plantes -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Protection cutanéeIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Note de contenu : - TSUGA CANADENSIS
- NEW NATURAL ACTIVE
- COSMECEUTICAL ACTIVITY : In vivo soothing (anti-irritation and anti-redness) activity
- ANTI-AGEING ACTIVITY : Activation of skin proteases - Induction of cytokines causing inflammation
- PURIFYING ACTIVITYEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rS7HvBEck6cs24YDFrKi74fA6yHQPIbm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=13491
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 3, N° 1 (03/2010) . - p. 59-64[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 012296 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Natural alternative to retinoids for a sweet aging process / Rosalia Mantilla in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019)
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Titre : Natural alternative to retinoids for a sweet aging process Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rosalia Mantilla, Auteur ; Olga Laporta, Auteur ; Elena Cañadas, Auteur ; Sylesh Venkataraman, Auteur ; Raquel Delgado, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 14-16 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Extraction (chimie)
Ingrédients cosmétiques -- Suppression ou remplacement
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Rétinoïdes
Stevia
Stress oxydatifIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The growing concern over environmental problems along with economic constraints, require the development of environmentally and economically sustainable extraction techniques to overcome many of the disadvantages of conventional extractions. PHENOBIOâ„¢ subcritical water extraction technology meets the challenges of the 21st century, to protect both the environment and consumers through a sustainable and innovative process. The eco-friendly extraction technology was applied to locally-sourced organic stevia to obtain STEVISSEâ„¢ advanced botanical ingredient, which presents a retinoid-like activity to achieve a younger looking complexion in a sustainable way and without retinoids side effect on the skin. Note de contenu : - Botanical extracts in a very eco-friendly way
- Natural gentler alternative to retinoids
- Smoothing the natural passing of time
- Defense against oxidative stress
- Minimizing skin aging without irritation
- Fading wrinkles away naturally
- Fig. 1 : Phytochemical recovery using PHENOBIOâ„¢ subcritical water technology extraction
- Fig. 2 : Percentage of fold change of upregulated antioxidant defense genes
- Fig. 3 : Percentage of fold change of downregulated pro-inflammatory and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) genes
- Fig. 4 : Photographs of the crow’s feet area before and after 28 of treatmentEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Iqp-9zysYb5P1Rt4EEN7EPpTLCnQ5jRt/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33577
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019) . - p. 14-16[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21326 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Natural alternatives for retinoic-acid-like anti-ageing / Stefan Hettwer in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 3 (06/2018)
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Titre : Natural alternatives for retinoic-acid-like anti-ageing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Sandra Breitenbach, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 27-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Cosmétiques
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Flavonoïdes
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
RétinoïdesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Use of vitamin A derivatives - the retinoids - is common in cosmetic formulations targeting the anti-ageing area. While retinoid acid is banned in the European Union as a cosmetic ingredient, other retinoids such as retinol are permitted. However, retinoids can provoke unwanted effects such as dry and itchy skin, especially when exposed to sunlight. Here we show that an alternative, namely natural bioflavonoids from Maclura cochinchinensis, is able to bind the target receptors of retinoic acid and create retinoid, acid-like efficacy in vivo. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Binding of bioflavonoids to the RAR and RXR receptors : Rejuvenation effect on ageing skin
- RESULTS : Bioflavonoids from Maclura cochinchinensis have retinoic acid-like efficacy in vitro - Bioflavonoids from Maclura cochinchinensis are effective skin-rejuvenating activesEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ty1IKSEtAJb4HODW01xINMCCGMAPDuXw/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30765
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 3 (06/2018) . - p. 27-30[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20038 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A natural ingredient meets current expectations of the german skin care market / Yonatan Brenner in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018)
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PermalinkNatural olive-derived active helps slow skin ageing / Christelle Graizeau in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 3 (06/2016)
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PermalinkNatural raw and active ingredients for green concepts / Bernd Ziolkowsky in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007)
PermalinkA natural skin anti-ageing serum containing pseudobulb ethanolic extract of Grammatophyllum speciosum : a randomized double-blind, placebo-controlled trial / V. Chowjarean in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)
PermalinkNatural skin care activity for the Arctic / Petra Larmo in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 5, N° 4 (09/2012)
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PermalinkNatural stress-relief from stevia extract / Silvio Lipartiti in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 3 (06/2017)
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PermalinkNature's know-how and plant cell technology to combat infrared- and ultraviolette-induced photoaging / Hagen Döring in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 11 (11/2016)
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PermalinkNeuro characterization of emulsions sensory profile : use of electroencephalography (EEG) for evaluating pick-up, rub-out and after-feel / John Jiménez in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 4 (04/2016)
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PermalinkNeuro-vieillissement : la nouvelle approche anti-âge / Marion Flocon in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2015)
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PermalinkPermalinkNew anti-ageing strategy focuses on mitochondria / Isabelle Imbert in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008)
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PermalinkNew approach to skin well-ageing skin microbiota rejuvenation / Oscar Expósito in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 149, N° 3 (03/2023)
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PermalinkNew approach to suppressing wrinkles / Yukiko Fujita in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 9 (10/2021)
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PermalinkA new broad spectrum anti-ageing active / Luigi Rigano in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 4 (06/2014)
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PermalinkNew coffee phytocomplex improves skin elasticity / Ilona Matejková in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 5, N° 5 (11/2012)
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