Bio-based algae oil : an oxidation and structural analysis / H. Birjandi Nejad in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 237-247 Titre : Bio-based algae oil : an oxidation and structural analysis Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : H. Birjandi Nejad, Auteur ; Laurent Blasco, Auteur ; B. Moran, Auteur ; Juan Cebriàn, Auteur ; J. Woodger, Auteur ; E. Gonzalez, Auteur ; C. Pritts, Auteur ; J. Milligan, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 237-247 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues Biomatériaux Biotechnologie Chimie analytique Emollients Fermentation Huiles et graisses végétales Hydratation Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Triglycérides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : In search of natural components, vegetal oils are increasingly becoming more popular in cosmetics. However, high oxidation instability, presence of potential allergens and synthetic anti-oxidants have limited their applications so far. Therefore, a need exists for a natural emollient with high oxidation stability. In this work, we report on a novel sustainably produced triglyceride containing primarily three monounsaturated oleic acid chains, dubbed ‘Bio-Based Algae Oil' hereafter, as a natural emollient for cosmetic formulations. To produce Bio-Based Algae Oil, simple sugars are converted into triglyceride oils using microalgae fermentation with minimal environmental impact. - Methods : Bio-Based Algae Oil was compared to other commonly used triglyceride-based emollients in the skincare industry in terms of thermal/oxidation stability, composition and moisturizing properties. Oxidation stability of emollients was compared using Rancimat and pressurized differential scanning calorimetry (PDSC) techniques. Fatty acid composition of each oil was analysed using proton nuclear magnetic resonance (1H-NMR) and gas chromatography (GC) techniques to correlate unsaturation level of each oil to its oxidation stability. We also conducted an in vivo moisturizing study in which skin hydration level of human subjects was compared before and after application of emollient up to 24 h. - Results : Results showed that Bio-Based Algae Oil was the most stable emollient in thermal and oxidation stability studies given its low unsaturation and high anti-oxidant content determined by 1H-NMR and GC techniques. It also provided the highest skin hydration level when applied on skin demonstrating its efficacy as a moisturizing emollient in cosmetic formulations. - Conclusions : Compositional analysis of Bio-Based Algae revealed that it is a triglyceride containing primarily three monounsaturated oleic acid chains with very low polyunsaturated fatty acid content resulting in high oxidation stability and consequently prolonged shelf-life. Given its sustainability, high oxidation stability and skin health benefits such as moisturization demonstrated during an in vivo study, we envision to utilize Bio-Based Algae Oil in many cosmetic formulations across skincare, suncare and bath and shower markets. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL SECTION : Materials - Thermal stability - Structural analysis - Moisturizing study - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Thermal stability - Oxidation stability - Structural analysis - Moisturizing study - Table 1 : Onset of weight loss temperature (°C) of bio-based algae oil, synthetic triolein, sunflower oil and olive oil recorded via thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) - Table 2 : Weight loss (%) of Bio-based algae oil, Synthetic Triolein, Sun-flower oil and olive oil recorded via isothermal thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) at 100, 130, 155 and 180°C - Table 3 : Oxidation induction time (OIT) of bio-based algae oil, synthetic triolein, sunflower oil and olive oil measured by PDSC and rancimat techniques - Table 4 : Rancimat oxidation induction time (OIT) of bo-based algae oil, synthetic triolein, sunflower oil and olive oil, extrapolated to 25°C - Table 5 : Fatty acid profiles of bio-based algae oil, synthetic triolein, sunflower oil and olive oil - Table 6 : Anti-oxidant content of bio-based algae oil, synthetic triolein, sunflower oil and olive oil DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12606 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NQLKjwtTxsT7w09oEFddU9gi56uTvhjn/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35271 [article]

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Simpler tools for customising sensorial properties / J. M. Carey in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008) . - p. 37-42 Titre : Simpler tools for customising sensorial properties Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : J. M. Carey, Auteur ; B. Moran, Auteur ; F. Shuster, Auteur ; B. Vondruska, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 37-42 Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Careful design of sensory properties can transform a skin care routine into a pleasant, memorable experience. Imagine being able to efficiently tailor sensory profiles to individual preferences. The Noveon Consumer Specialties group of Lubrizol Advanced Materials has developed visual tools that will enable formulators to easily select the appropriate products to meet desired formulation aesthetics and skin feel. These tools centre on proper selection of Carbopol polymer and Schercemol ester combinations to influence sensory properties, which is the essence of the SensiMap concept. Sensory attributes are a critical component of any emulsion-based skin care formulation. Generating the correct sensorial properties has always been a challenge. However, in today’s global market, meeting regional preferences has further complicated this task. Dealing with the increasing complexity of sensorial requirements in the face of ever decreasing resource availability, increasing cost pressures and increasingly shortened development time requirements has escalated the need for formulation tools that simplify the process. Noveon Consumer Specialties has developed such a tool assisting in selecting the correct rheology modifier and emollient ester to deliver specific sensory properties. Carbopol polymers are renowned for their ability to modify rheology and stabilise emulsions. However, they also have dramatic potential for enhancing other product attributes such as sensorial properties. Because they accomplish rheology modification and stabilisation through a space filling mechanism, they occupy the entire aqueous phase of the formulation. Polymers such as Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymer (INCI Name: Carbomer) can convey lightness and freshness, while polymers such as Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymer (INCI Name: Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) impart richness and creaminess. With Schercemol esters, you can tailor richness, spreadability, slip and persistence of emolliency to deliver precisely the irresistible tactile appeal you desire. Light esters such as Schercemol NGDO ester (INCI Name: Neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate) feel soft with high slip and fast absorbency, while heavy esters such as Schercemol DISM (INCI Name: Diisostearyl malate) ester convey longlasting richness and elegance. Note de contenu : - The sensory contribution continuum - Rheology modifier contribution to sensory properties - Emollient contribution to sensory properties - The sensory combination matrix - Combined formulating guide - Discern the difference En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/147f63Td8orwpIgEoIRJRPVKSLDpXb6dz/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22090 [article]

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