Easy formulation, demanding ingredients / Achim Friedrich in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 2 (03/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 2 (03/2014) . - p. 33-37 Titre : Easy formulation, demanding ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Achim Friedrich, Auteur ; Petra Biehl, Auteur ; Frank Unger, Auteur ; Jan Marian von Hof, Auteur ; Jürgen Meyer, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 33-37 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Emulsifiants Ester de polyglycérol Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Produits hydratants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : We have shown that although being well known for a long time, polyglyceryl esters still have potential for the development of novel and improved solutions combining true sustainability and excellent performance. The innovative oil-in-water emulsifier polyglyceryl-6 stearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 behenate was developed to deal with today's formulation challenges especially regarding low-viscous systems like lotions or sprays. The emulsifier is able to stabilize various systems containing demanding ingredients like water-soluble UV filters or electrolytes. It further tolerates organic acids at low pH values which is a crucial requirement for natural formulations. Its overall performance in ail the mentioned systems is outstanding. Thus, the emulsifier polyglyceryl-6 stearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 behenate is a versatile and flexible tool for formulators to realise cosmetic products for many different applications. Besides efficient emulsion stabilisation this completely natural emulsifier can contribute to more sustainable emulsions. Furthermore, it supports light skin feel, mildness and moisturisation properties of cosmetic formulations. Note de contenu : - Structure and properties - Moisturisation effect - Emulsion stabilisation studies - Versatile application profile - Table 1 : Composition and processing of the low-viscous sun care test lotion (SPF 50) in combination with the insect repellent active (System A) - Table 2 : Detailed stability test results for low-viscous sun care (System A) - Table 3 : Composition of further low-viscous emulsion test (System B-D) - Table 4 : Summarised results of the performance comparison tests (Systems B to D) - Formulation 1 : Sun care lotion SPF 50+ with insect repellent - Formulation 2 : Natural cooling body lotion - Formulation 3 : Natural make-up foundation - Formulation 4 :Body energizing lotion En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/11lRzFZW7C2ZCiKEheya8I2FpmBmhkwsJ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=20777 [article]

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Fact and fancy about lamellar emulsions - A closer look inside / Sebastian Johannes Beckers in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 3 (03/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 3 (03/2022) . - p. 40-44 Titre : Fact and fancy about lamellar emulsions - A closer look inside Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sebastian Johannes Beckers, Auteur ; Achim Friedrich, Auteur ; Joachim Venzmer, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 40-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsifiants Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Ester de polyglycérol Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Stabilisants (chimie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Motivated by the hype about lamellar emulsions, we wanted to take a closer look at the microstructure of modern cosmetic emulsions stabilized by polyglycerol ester emulsifiers. Previously, we have developed a structure model of an emulsion stabilized by a polyglycerol ester emulsifier and consistency enhancers by using a number of highly specialized (e.g. scattering) methods. According to these results, the oil droplets are surrounded by several, irregularly spaced bilayers consisting of emulsifier and consistency enhancer. We now have extended this work to four alternative polyglycerol ester emulsifiers by using Cryo-TEM to study the microstructure of model emulsions. In none of the cases there was evidence for areas of stacked bilayers, i.e. a lamellar phase or multilamellar vesicles, which could be recognized by birefringence (e.g. Maltese crosses) in polarization microcopy if they were present. Such lamellar phases or multilamellar vesicles can be generated by overdosing the emulsifier, or could be a consequence of incomplete mixing. Therefore, polarization microcopy results can hardly be an indication for superior application performance and should not be confused with claim substantiation. Note de contenu : - What are "lamellar emulsions" ? - Molecular architecture determines the types of surfactant aggregate - What are "lamellar emulsions" ? - A deep dive into the structure of o/w-emulsions - How general are these findings ? - Table 1 : Composition of the model formulations used En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JL2FPEpk72Y5haOaLVqKS2Bg25aOCO7z/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37195 [article]

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