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Gel microemulsions with polyoxyethylene-type surfactant mixture and their application as a makeup remover / Miho Kamada in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 4 (10-11-12/2013)
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Titre : Gel microemulsions with polyoxyethylene-type surfactant mixture and their application as a makeup remover Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Miho Kamada, Auteur ; Tetsuro Iwanaga, Auteur ; Kenji Aramaki, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 241-247 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cristaux liquides
Démaquillants
Diagrammes de phases
Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Huile de palme et constituants
Huile de ricin et constituants
Microémulsions
Polyéthylène glycol
Rhéologie
Solubilisation
SurfactantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Microemulsions generally have low viscosities. We intended to develop a microemulsion with a gelatinous property for applications as a makeup remover. In a poly (oxyethylene)(50) hydrogenated castor oil isostearate (HCO(EO50)IS) in an oil (ethylhexylpalmitate)/water system, microemulsions were formed only in a narrow range. When water was replaced with 70 wt% glycerol aq., the region where microemulsions could be formed was expanded, and gel microemulsions were formed in compositions containing large amounts of oils. Furthermore, when part of the HCO(EO50)IS was replaced with poly(oxyethylene)(5)glyceryl monoisosterate (GIS(EO5)), the microemulsion region spread to 90 wt% of oil. The gel microemulsions were characterized by a large degree of water solubilization, and obtained good spreadability and smoothness in sensory evaluations and showed no decrease in cleansing ability. Note de contenu : - Experimental
- Materials
- Methods
- Phase diagram determination
- Rheological measurements
- Sensory panel test
- "In vitro" evaluation of cleansing ability
- Result and discussion
- Phase behavior of a water/glycerol/HCO(EO50)IS/EHP system
- Effect of added co-surfactants
- Effect of water solubilization on properties of the gel microemulsionPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=20153
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 15845 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A novel water-in-oil emulsion with a lecithin-modified bentonite prevents skin damage from urban dust and cedar pollen / Tetsuro Iwanaga in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020)
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Titre : A novel water-in-oil emulsion with a lecithin-modified bentonite prevents skin damage from urban dust and cedar pollen Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Tetsuro Iwanaga, Auteur ; A. Nioh, Auteur ; N. Reed, Auteur ; H. Kiyokawa, Auteur ; H. Akatsuka, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 229-236 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution
Barrière cutanée
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- Physiologie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Polluants atmosphériques
Stress oxydatif
Vieillissement cutanéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Particulate matter (PM), such as air pollutants and pollens, are known to cause skin ageing through skin inflammation. It is important to develop formulations which protect the skin from PM. We previously developed a conventional water-in-oil emulsion with a synthetic surfactant, distearyldimonium chloride, modified bentonite (C-W/O), which protects skin from allergens. In the present study, we developed a novel water-in-oil emulsion with a natural surfactant, lecithin, modified bentonite (N-W/O).
- Methods : The microarray analysis was performed using total RNA extracted from a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) stimulated with urban aerosols or cedar pollen for 6 h in order to develop an epidermal inflammation model by PM for the evaluation of topical formulations. We then compared the efficacy of N-W/O and C-W/O to prevent epidermal degradation. Tissues and culture media were collected 24 h after the urban aerosol or cedar pollen stimulation for a histological assay, and the quantification of MMP1 and IL-8 secretion.
- Results : The expression levels of proinflammatory cytokines and chemokines, such as IL1A and CXCL8, and matrix metalloproteinases, including MMP1, MMP3 and MMP9, were significantly up-regulated by the PM stimulation. As a result of ranking based on the pathway enrichment analysis, oxidative stress-related pathways, such as MAPK-mediated signalling, HIF-1 signalling, IL-1 signalling and ROS-induced cellular signalling, were ranked high in the urban dust- and cedar pollen-treated groups. A thickened stratum corneum, thinned vital layer and cleaved E-cadherin were observed by haematoxylin and eosin staining and immunohistochemical staining of E-cadherin in the PM treated groups. The secretion of MMP1 and IL-8 into the media was significantly increased by the PM stimulation. N-W/O prevented the degradation of epidermal integrity and secretion of inflammatory proteins more effectively than C-W/O.
- Conclusion : The present results showed that N-W/O made using natural surfactant is useful at protecting skin from PM, such as urban aerosols and cedar pollen.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS RHE MODEL : Particulate matter - Microarray analysis of the RHE inflammation model with PM exposure - Materials including emulsion samples - Evaluation of the efficacy of N-W/O to protect against PM - Preparation of emulsion samples - Preparation of lecithin-modified bentonite
- RESULTS : Microarray analysis of the PM-induced inflammation in RUE - Evaluation of protection by N‐W/O using the RUE inflammation model
- Table 1 : Formulation of emulsions
- Table 2 : Ranking based on a pathway enrichment analysis using MetaCore® softwareDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12605 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aaOPkWKkGqlg_8OmkBN37Minu4q_zGaG/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35270
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 229-236[article]Exemplaires
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