Development of a powerful tool for investigation of the structure and functionality of the aqueous phase of cosmetics / Luigi Rigano in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 3 (07-08-09/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 3 (07-08-09/2013) . - p. 165-174 Titre : Development of a powerful tool for investigation of the structure and functionality of the aqueous phase of cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Luigi Rigano, Auteur ; Giovanni Baratto, Auteur ; Alessandro Portolan, Auteur ; Alessandra Semenzato, Auteur ; Marisa Meloni, Auteur ; Adriana Bonfigli, Auteur ; Maurizio Sironi, Auteur ; Stefano Pieraccini, Auteur ; Nicola Lionetti, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 165-174 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Analyse Cosmétiques en phase aqueuse Etude in vitro Etude in vivo Molécules -- Modèles Osmose Protection cutanée Protéines -- Structure Stress -- Effets physiologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The continuous research for new, high-performing ingredients is one of the most difficult hurdles facing cosmetic companies. Sometimes, a more in-depth investigation on the structures composing the apparently homogeneous phases of cosmetic preparations is required. This could allow a precise understanding of some hidden molecular behavior. This paper describes an innovative approach for the identification of skin-effective raw materials. It is based on the combined application of in silico analysis of molecular dynamics followed by a new in vitro model for studying the skin recovety from stress. This new pathway was adopted to better understand the molecular structure of the aqueous phase of cosmetics containing osmotic protectants and their mechanism of interaction with the protein moieties when some type of stress conditions is applied. Molecular dynamics is a method using the computer simulation of the physical movements of atoms and molecules in a specific aqueous environnent. The in vitro stressed skin cell test, which was successively applied to the aqueous solutions, revealed through specific biochemical markers the different effects of some water binding molecules on skin protection and recovery. This new approach was eventually con-firmed by in vivo study models. The testing protocol we applied was the one which is generally used for photo-aging studies: the microrelief and the elasticity of skin submitted to UV and surfactant stress were determined alter prolonged use of the product by volunteers and a microstructure evaluation of the dermoepidermal junction was carried out. The in vivo results obtained for some bio-physical parameters of the skin of aged volunteers were in agreement both with the theoretical (in silico) and biological (in vitro) findings. Moreover, the results show that, as a consequence of their chemical structures, osmolytes exhibit different aggregation states in aqueous solution and, when properly combined, show synergistic effects in the protection of the native folded structure of proteins. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19305 [article]

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In vivo and in vitro evaluation methods : a comparison / Nicola Lionetti in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 6 (11/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 6 (11/2014) . - p. 27-31 Titre : In vivo and in vitro evaluation methods : a comparison Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Nicola Lionetti, Auteur ; Luigi Rigano, Auteur ; Claudia Cartigliani, Auteur ; Adriana Bonfigli, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 27-31 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Analyse Etude in vitro Etude in vivo Evaluation Facteur de protection solaire Photoprotection Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eau Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Effective photoprotection represents the best way to keep our skin healthy in sun exposed environments, even if the cosmetic protection does not have to induce to an imprudent and prolonged exposure to the sun's rays. The gradual harmonisation of the evaluation of methods of the efficacy of sunscreens will lead to greater safety for all consumers. Furthermore, the several warnings described on the labels may help the consumers to better protect their own health, increasing their awareness about the risks of prolonged and thoughtless sun exposure. Note de contenu : - Evaluation of UVB sunburn protection factor (SFP) - ISO 24444:2010-in vivo determination of SFP - Recommendations - Evaluation of the sun product water resistance - In vitro method for the determination of UVA photoprotection - In vitro determination of UVA photoprotection - FDA 2011 final rule - Australia sunscreen standard AS/NZS 2604:2012 - Formulation solutions En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/16ASjCOGmAkTP_SI8qatQsIe0zVoIfZdl/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22262 [article]

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Probing the effectiveness of barrier creams against human skin penetration of nickel powder / Greta Camilla Magnano in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 39-50 Titre : Probing the effectiveness of barrier creams against human skin penetration of nickel powder Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Greta Camilla Magnano, Auteur ; Giovanna Marussi, Auteur ; Matteo Crosera, Auteur ; Dritan Hasa, Auteur ; Gianpiero Adami, Auteur ; Nicola Lionetti, Auteur ; Francesca Larese Filon, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 39-50 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Franz, Cellules de Matériaux -- Propriétés barrières Métaux lourds Nickel Le nickel est un élément chimique, de symbole Ni et de numéro atomique 28. Le nickel est un métal blanc argenté qui possède un éclat poli. Il fait partie du groupe du fer. C'est un métal ductile (malléable). On le trouve sous forme combinée au soufre dans la millérite, à l'arsenic dans la nickéline. Grâce à sa résistance à l'oxydation et à la corrosion, il est utilisé dans les pièces de monnaie, pour le plaquage du fer, du cuivre, du laiton, dans certaines combinaisons chimiques et dans certains alliages. Il est ferromagnétique, et est fréquemment accompagné de cobalt. Il est particulièrement apprécié pour les alliages qu'il forme. Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pénétration cutanée Poudres métalliques Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Barrier creams (BCs) are marketed as locally applied medical devices or cosmetic products to protect the skin from exposure to chemicals and irritants. Generally, the mechanism of action of such products is mainly due to the formation of a superficial thin film between the skin and the irritant or sensitizer, thus reducing or totally blocking the cutaneous penetration of such agents. Specifically, studies focusing on the effectiveness of commercial protective creams to prevent nickel cutaneous penetration are extremely scarce. The aim of the current work, therefore, is to evaluate the protective role of a commercially available barrier cream for nickel and compare the results with a simple moisturizing, following exposure to Ni powder. - Methods : Marketed BCs were evaluated and tested. Human skin absorption of Ni was studied in vitro using static Franz diffusion cells. - Results : Our results demonstrate that the application of both formulations caused a reduction of Ni inside the skin (8.00 ± 3.35 μg cm−2 for the barrier cream and 22.6 ± 12.6 μg cm−2 for the general moisturizing product), with the specialized barrier cream being statistically (p = 0.015) more efficient on forming a protective barrier, thus evidencing the importance of some ingredients in such formulations on the nickel dermal accumulation. - Conclusions : The composition of the formulations based on film-forming or chelating agents may play an imperative role in reducing the cutaneous penetration of Ni. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Formulation - Preparation of nickel powder in synthetic sweat solution - Skin samples preparation - Skin digestion after the experiment - Analytical measurements - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Nickel quantification in donor solutions - Skin permeation of nickel - In vitro skin penetration of nickel - Calculation of full absorbed amount recovered - Table 1 : Composition of the tested formulations - Table 2 : Ni amounts found in receptor fluid (RF) - Table 3 : Ni amount found in skin layers in blanks and exposed skin after 24 h exposure. - Table 4 : Full absorbed and recovered amount (Qabs) of Ni after 24 h exposure to Ni powder DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12893 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gSlZOfXLm-Tl6ZnNp-bLdgXBhd1uTQX8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40577 [article]

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