An updated review of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin – New perspectives and evaluation for claims support / Stephan Bielfeldt in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 40, N° 4 (08/2018)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 40, N° 4 (08/2018) . - p. 348-355 Titre : An updated review of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin – New perspectives and evaluation for claims support Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stephan Bielfeldt, Auteur ; Gunja Springmann, Auteur ; M. Seise, Auteur ; Klaus-Peter Wilhelm, Auteur ; Theresa M. Callaghan, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 348-355 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermatologie Etudes cliniques Evaluation Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Tests d'efficacité Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : With the advancement of skin research, today's consumer has increased access to an informed understanding of ageing skin and its appendages, together with a plethora of targeted products to meet such needs. In recent years, increased legislative demands for quality evidential claims support have led not only to the development and validation of clinical methods to measure and quantify ageing skin, but also a clearer understanding of the skin ageing process–especially the impact of both its internal and external environments–as well as a tougher stance on clearly unjustifiable claims. Traditional testing methods used to research and evaluate anti‐ageing products claim to employ sophisticated instruments. Today, however, since the term anti‐ageing can be considered a misnomer, intelligent use of combined more advanced clinical methods has enabled the development of technologically improved consumer products providing enhanced efficacy and targeted performance. Non‐invasive methods for the assessment and quantification of the causes of ageing skin provide tools to the clinical researcher as defined by key clinically observed ageing parameters. Where evidence requires additional support, a number of clinical procedures evaluating ageing skin and hair products are combined with invasive procedures, thus enabling an added value to product claims. As discussed herein, given the enhanced understanding of ageing, we provide an update to our previous reviews of clinical methods used in the assessment of skin ageing, to include the wider aspects of environmental exposure; skin pigmentation; microbiome disturbance; surface topography; colour, radiance, and pH; and structural integrity–all requiring a disciplined approach to their use in dermatological investigations and product claims evidence. Note de contenu : - Environmental exposure-oxidative stress and pollution : gaseous combustion model - Skin surface topography - Pigmentation - Colour and radiance - Skin surface ph - Firmness, elasticity and echo-density - Microbiome balance - Concluding remarks DOI : 10.1111/ics.12484 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12484 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31068 [article]

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Capacitive contact imaging - New clinical sreening method for aluminum free products / Britta Malcher in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 3 (03/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 3 (03/2019) . - p. 28-34 Titre : Capacitive contact imaging - New clinical sreening method for aluminum free products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Britta Malcher, Auteur ; Marianne Brandt, Auteur ; Gunja Springmann, Auteur ; Stephan Bielfeldt, Auteur ; Klaus-Peter Wilhelm, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 28-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Aluminium L'aluminium est un élément chimique, de symbole Al et de numéro atomique 13. C’est un métal pauvre, malléable, de couleur argent, qui est remarquable pour sa résistance à l’oxydation13 et sa faible densité. C'est le métal le plus abondant de l'écorce terrestre et le troisième élément le plus abondant après l'oxygène et le silicium ; il représente en moyenne 8 % de la masse des matériaux de la surface solide de notre planète. L'aluminium est trop réactif pour exister à l'état natif dans le milieu naturel : on le trouve au contraire sous forme combinée dans plus de 270 minéraux différents, son minerai principal étant la bauxite, où il est présent sous forme d’oxyde hydraté dont on extrait l’alumine. Il peut aussi être extrait de la néphéline, de la leucite, de la sillimanite, de l'andalousite et de la muscovite. L'aluminium métallique est très oxydable, mais est immédiatement passivé par une fine couche d'alumine Al2O3 imperméable de quelques micromètres d'épaisseur qui protège la masse métallique de la corrosion. On parle de protection cinétique, par opposition à une protection thermodynamique, car l’aluminium reste en tout état de cause très sensible à l'oxydation. Cette résistance à la corrosion et sa remarquable légèreté en ont fait un matériau très utilisé industriellement. L'aluminium est un produit industriel important, sous forme pure ou alliée, notamment dans l'aéronautique, les transports et la construction. Sa nature réactive en fait également un catalyseur et un additif dans l'industrie chimique ; il est ainsi utilisé pour accroître la puissance explosive du nitrate d'ammonium. Antiperspirants Gravimétrie (chimie analytique) Imagerie (technique) Sels d'aluminium -- Produits de remplacement Transpiration -- analyse Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Althrough a natural function of the skin, perspiration and the odor it produces is considered offensive in many cultures, and consequently products addressing this problem are in high demand. Antiperspirants and most deodorants are normally formulated with aluminum salts. However concerns over environmentaly safety, health and wellbeing are driving innovation in new directions. A wide appreciation of the effects of antiperspirants and deodorants on the skins natural microbiome is taking centre stage, and the desire for more natural microbiome friendly products is leading to new development, both in formulations and performance testing methods. In order to investigate the efficacy of antiperspirants at the early stages of developments, a screening test based on the gravimetric sweat determination, by appyling cotton pads to harvest the sweat, is preferably used. However, this standard test does not work with all aluminum-free antiperspirants, especially those containing film forming actives where the contact with cotton pads may lead to a measurement bias. In the present work we describe a new screening method using Capacitive Contact Imaging in which the sweat reducing effect of a new generation of non-plug forming actives can be evaluated without application of pads to sample the sweat. In evaluating the method, a differentiation between the effect of different substances was observed. In summary, Capacitive Contact Imaging with appropriate image analysis is a reproductible and innovative approach for the efficacy of non-aluminum containing, as well as aluminum containing antiperspirants, especially for those for which gravimetric methods fail to produce accruate results. Note de contenu : - Cosmetic applications - Antiperspirant efficacy - current methods - Aluminum-free - challenges & limits of current methods - Capacitive contact imaging (CCI) and gravimetric method comparison - Method principle - Results - Table 1 : Summary of key comparative points between CCI and the current gravimetric method in relation to antiperspirants. - Table 2 : Investigated products and substances En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WcMYLyCnxVSf-iHgzKVViBMjixATGoga/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32020 [article]

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Compatibility testing of cosmetics and toiletries for babies and children / Alexandra Erlach in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 9 (09/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 9 (09/2018) . - p. 40-47 Titre : Compatibility testing of cosmetics and toiletries for babies and children Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alexandra Erlach, Auteur ; Gunja Springmann, Auteur ; Melanie Renner, Auteur ; Klaus-Peter Wilhelm Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 40-47 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques pour enfants Cosmétiques pour nourrissons Essais (technologie) Evaluation Produits de toilette Sécurité des produits de consommation Tests de compatibilité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : All cosmetic products must be safe, especially those intended for babies and small children. Besides national guidelines and regulations, cosmetic products in the European Union are regulated by the EU Cosmetic Products Regulation. It pays particular attention to protecting the health of vulnerable population groups and recommends a specific assessment for cosmetic products intended for use on children under the age of three years. Nevertheless, standard procedures for the evaluation of the local tolerance are not given. Due to practical and ethical reasons clinical studies on adults should be a first step of compatibility testing. To consider physiological differences notably a not yet fully developed barrier function during the first years of life, barrier function of adult skin can be intentionally compromised by gentle experimental standardized procedures prior product application. As an alternative and depending on the objective target, only pre-screened sensitive subjects are included in the investigation. After extensive pre-examination and testing in adults, tolerance and performance of the final product can also be confirmed with non-incriminating observational studies under normal in-use conditions in children under physician control. Note de contenu : - PHYSIOLOGICAL DIFFERENCES AND CONSEQUENCES - REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS - SAFETY EVALUATION OF COSMETICS FOR CHILDRES : Systemic tolerability - Microbiological specifications - Local tolerability - TEST STRATEGIES - POSSIBILITIES AND LIMITATIONS : Clinical studies on adults - In-use studies on babies and children - TABLES : 1. SSA/BW ratio for children fro 0 to 10 years (Renwick 1998) - 2. Test designs for different investigations and product classes En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nwAL3xyDyTPxUPNFT4olzc0cyNDDu9-E/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30958 [article]

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Impact of cleansing products on the skin surface pH / Uwe Aßmus in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 1 (01-02-03/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 1 (01-02-03/2013) . - p. 17-24 Titre : Impact of cleansing products on the skin surface pH Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Uwe Aßmus, Auteur ; Bernhard Banowski, Auteur ; Michael Brock, Auteur ; Jessica Erasmy, Auteur ; Andreas Fitzner, Auteur ; Uta Kortemeier, Auteur ; Silke Langer, Auteur ; Sven Munke, Auteur ; Hartmut Schmidt-Lewerkühne, Auteur ; Doerte Segger, Auteur ; Gunja Springmann, Auteur ; Claudia Wood, Auteur ; Jürgen Blaak, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 17-24 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Peau -- Nettoyage Peau -- Soins et hygiène pH -- Mesure Savon Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The project was conducted to evaluate the effect on the skin surface pH of application of surfactant systems of different pH. Enhancement of the physiological stratum corneum pH leads to abnormal epidermal barrier function. Skin cleansing products are known to influence the skin surface pH. Studies have shown that various effects on the skin surface pH are related to a pH shift and restoration. Because of the varying results, a literature survey and a multicenter study were performed to evaluate the effect of skin cleansing on skin surface pH. The literature survey was conducted on the topic "Influence of cleansing products on skin pH". Moreover, a controlled and randomized multicenter study was performed with 63 healthy male and female subjects. The skin surface pH was measured before and after a standardized washing procedure with three different cleansing products and water. Publications since 1970 reveal different methods, conditions, panels and effects on skin surface pH. The changes in skin surface pH described after skin cleansing vary ±0 to +3.0 units. Biophysical measurements show that not only the product pH but also the combination of surfactants is a crucial factor in maintaining the natural skin pH. Finding the optimal ratio of surfactants in combination with an acidic product pH between 4 and 5 will be an important challenge for cosmetic chemists in the future. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=17828 [article]

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Perspiration and odor testing methods and new opportunities for claims development / Sandra Bleckwenn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018) . - p. 22-31 Titre : Perspiration and odor testing methods and new opportunities for claims development Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sandra Bleckwenn, Auteur ; Iryna Kruse, Auteur ; Gunja Springmann, Auteur ; Stephan Bielfeldt, Auteur ; Klaus-Peter Wilhelm, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 22-31 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Législation Déodorants Microbiome cutané Odeur corporelle Tests d'efficacité Transpiration -- analyse Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Of all the natural functions of the skin, perspiration and its odorous consequences is one of the most lucrative challenges of the cosmetic industry, especially due to its social impact. Body odor and perspiration is deemed offensive in most cultures and cosmetic products to control this phenomenon are in high demand. The reduction of sweat and its resulting odor is normally addressed by antiperspirant formulations containing aluminium salts and standard antimicrobial actives. However concerns over environmental safety, cancer, health and wellbeing are driving innovation in new directions. A wider understanding of the potential positive and negative effects of antiperspirants and deodorants on the skins natural microbiome is becoming more appreciated, alongside a marketing desire for more elaborate claims. This had led to new formulations and different approaches within the confines of legislative requirements for study designs. Here we discuss sweat odor and perspiration, and examine both standard and new developed approaches in clinical testing for claims substantiation within the context of product efficacy, their effect on the skin's microbiome and legislative product claims requirements. Note de contenu : - ODOR & PERSPIRATION TREATMENTS : Clinical intervention - Cosmetic applications - Microbial transplantation - LEGISLATION - ANTIPERSPIRANT EFFICACY STUDIES : FDA method - Screening method - DEODORANT EFFICACY STUDIES - MICROBIOME EVALUATION STUDIES :Study principle - ADRESSING WIDER CLAIMS - FIGURES : 1. FDA procedure for sweat collection during hot room exposure - 2. Screening method for intra-individual comparison of multiple antiperspirant formulations - 3. Comparison of efficacy of aluminium salts in different formulation using the antiperspirant screening method - 4. Sniff test procedure using trained experts according to EN 13725:2003-07 and physical activity on steppers for wider claims En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xUHAQawEOlSKDcQUCFTi3wjtq-auP0OD/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30416 [article]

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Substantiating claims for hair care products / M. Brandt in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 6 (06/2016)  

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The skin's microbiome : Establishing a quality seal for cosmetics & consumer expectations / M. Brandt in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 149, N° 6 (06/2023)  

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