Dépouillements

Allium cepa peel waste : A sustainable solution for antibacterial leather dyeing with gs powder mordanting / Sathya Ramalingam in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXIX, N° 3 (03/2024)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CXIX, N° 3 (03/2024) . - p. 107-118 Titre : Allium cepa peel waste : A sustainable solution for antibacterial leather dyeing with gs powder mordanting Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sathya Ramalingam, Auteur ; Swethashree Rajendran, Auteur ; Ambika Kumaresan, Auteur ; Gladstone Christopher Jayakumar, Auteur ; Alagumuthu Tamil Selvi, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 107-118 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Antibactériens Bacillus subtilis Caractérisation Colorants végétaux Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés organoleptiques Cuirs et peaux -- Teinture Déchets végétaux -- Recyclage Escherichia coli Extraction (chimie) Oignons et constituants Réflectance Solidité de la couleur Stabilité thermique Taille des particules Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Using natural dyes rather than synthetic dyes is an option that can be pursued to achieve sustainability in leather dyeing. The main disadvantage of natural dyeing is poor wet and dry rub fastness and the requirements of metal mordants for fixing. In this work, onion peel waste is the chosen raw material to produce natural dye for leather dyeing without metal mordant. Adding commercial syntans and vegetable tannins with the onion peel dye in the post tanning process produces good quality dyed leather without using any mordants. The optimal particle size of eco-friendly onion peel dye was extracted from onion peel (Allium cepa) using a modified aqueous extraction method. The extracted dye was examined by various instrumental techniques to characterize the functional groups by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), optical properties by UV-VIS spectrophotometry, size by Malvern Instruments, and thermal stability by Thermogravimetric Analysis (TGA). The results express the suitability for application in the leather dyeing process. The extracted dye was analysed for the antibacterial activity towards Bacillus subtilis and Escherichia coli, and the results revealed that the natural dye has an antibacterial effect Crust leather dyed only with extracted dye showed poor dye Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Sample collection - Materials and methods - Preparation and extractio of dye - Characterization of the extrated dye - Anti-bacterial activity - Leather dyeing application - Photographic images of the leather surface and cross action - Measurement of reflectance of colored leather - Fastness property of colored leather - Dye leaching analysis - Dye exhaustion studies - Organoleptic properties - RESULT AND DISCUSSION : Fourier Transformation Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis - Thermal stability of onion peel dye - Particle size of the onion peel dye - Anti-bacterial activity - Natural dyeing with mordants - Optimisation of leather dyeing process using onion peel extract - Color coordinates measurement of dyed leathers - Color fastness measurement - The strength properties of the dyed leather - Dye leaching analysis - Orgnoaleptic properties measurement - Table 1 : Post-tanning recipe for the production of garment type of leather - Table 2 : Dyeing process mordanting with GS powder and phenolic syntan - Table 3 : Color coordinates of the dyed leather - Table 4 : Color fastness properties of the onion peel dye treated leather - Table 5 : Strength properties of the onion peel dyed leather DOI : https://doi.org/10.34314/racatm26 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/18QUv3NkhQoLrvZ1et8Gkzhh3yjwDEX9p/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40617 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
24535	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Research on innovative design methods of intangible cultural heritage in leather products / Han Xu in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXIX, N° 3 (03/2024)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CXIX, N° 3 (03/2024) . - p. 119-131 Titre : Research on innovative design methods of intangible cultural heritage in leather products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Han Xu, Auteur ; Han Chen, Auteur ; Biyu Peng, Auteur ; Luming Yang, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 119-131 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Conception technique Couleur -- Dans l'art Couture Innovations Motifs (arts décoratifs) Patrimoine culturel -- Analyse Patrimoine technique Point de croix Recherche Vêtements en cuir Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Intangible cultural heritage is an important symbol of a nation’s historical and cultural achievements, containing rich connotations and high artistic value. Leather products, as a significant component of modern fashion, have a wide range of market demand. To address the issues of traditional patterns in intangible cultural heritage not matching modern aesthetics and lacking application scenarios, this study takes leather products as carriers and proposes an innovative design paradigm for traditional clothing patterns. We chose the Miao cross-stitch patterns of Guizhou, China, as a case study. Analyzed their subject connotations, common structures and features. Using split grammar and shape grammar, the patterns are deconstructed and reassembled to obtain foundational innovative patterns. The Mean-shift clustering algorithm was applied to extract the classic colors of Miao cross-stitch patterns. Based on fractal theory and computer algorithms, a novel pattern model for Miao cross-stitch was proposed, incorporating representative patterns and colors to complete pattern designs. Finally, the feasibility of the proposed approach was validated through the practical design of leather fashion accessories on the Style 3D platform. This study aims to provide methodological references for the modernization and innovation of intangible cultural heritage, as well as the diverse integration of leather products design. Note de contenu : - RESEARCH BASIS : Patterns motifs - Pattern structure - Pattern color - METHODS : Elemental derivation methods - Mean-shift color clustering algorithm - Fractal pattern design method - Design paradigm - APPLICATION : Derivation of Miao cross-stitch element - Color design of Miao cross-stitch - Miao cross-stitch pattern design - The application of cross-stitch patterns in leather apparel - Table 1 : Classification and extraction of Miao cross-stitch patterns - Table 2 : Classic pattern colors and their RGB values DOI : https://doi.org/10.34314/jalca.v119i3.8265 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Qp_XpW8G8ymFGSO9FvqL3MyAYkiCWUtx/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40618 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
24535	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Influence of different products on wet finishing for leather properties and waste generation / Laisa Grassi in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXIX, N° 3 (03/2024)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CXIX, N° 3 (03/2024) . - p. 132-138 Titre : Influence of different products on wet finishing for leather properties and waste generation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Laisa Grassi, Auteur ; Luísa Gonçalves, Auteur ; Vânia Queiroz, Auteur ; Mariliz Gutterres, Auteur ; Caroline Agustini, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 132-138 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Caractérisation Colorants -- Absorption Cuirs et peaux -- Finition Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques Cuirs et peaux -- Teinture Essais dynamiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Plan d'expérience Produits de nourriture du cuir Retannage Stabilité thermique Tannage végétal Tara et constituants C'est un petit arbre épineux avec des gousses plates rouge qui pousse dans les zones sèches du Pérou, Amérique du Sud. Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Leather is widely used for various applications. The processing involves a series of steps in which chemical processes and mechanical operations are carried out, with the addition of a series of products. Among the performance and quality parameters of the leather produced are the chemical and physical properties. The quality of the leather and the product obtained is influenced by its processing and the products used. Several studies are found in the literature on the effect of processing on leather properties. The present study brings the results of the influence of different products used in retanning, dyeing and fatliquoring (wet finishing) on the final properties of the leather. Physical tests of resistance to tearing, cracking and distension of the grain, the functional groups present in its structure, the thermal stability by DSC and TGA tests, dye uptake rate percentage and the remaining concentration of dye in the solution were used to evaluate the influence of different products on leather properties. It was observed that the parameter that influenced the applied force and the distension of the grain of the leather was the type of retanning agent used; the greater resistance to distension was obtained by Tara retanned leathers. As for the degree of dye uptake rate and remaining concentration of dye in the effluent, they were not affected by the studied parameters and all hides showed similar dye uptake. Regarding tear resistance, the type of grease was the parameter that had a significant effect on leather, higher resistance values were observed for leather greased with Coripol. The novelty of the work is in measuring how different dyeing, retanning and greasing products influence the properties of the final product, which is an advance towards greater cost-benefit in the choice of products to be used in the process. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Characterization - Experimental design - Mechanical properties - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Characterizations - Leather properties - Table 1 : Variable parameters and levels considered in the experimental design - Table 2 : Sample names in the experimental design - Table 3 : Executed formulation for post-tanning wet-blue to procedure with different finishing products - Table 4 : Mean values of applied force (N) and distention at grain crack (mm) for samples of all leathers analyzed - Table 5 : Results of the % of Dye uptake the leather - Table 6 : Results of remaining concentration test - Table 7 : Results of physical tests of resistance to progressive tearing DOI : https://doi.org/10.34314/383ntk96 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/11DgKVUVo1kigVuE1mlfpG1kf4RuPsIwH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40619 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
24535	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Application of ultrasound in eco-friendly fatliquoring of leather / Mohamed Abu Sayid Mia in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXIX, N° 3 (03/2024)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CXIX, N° 3 (03/2024) . - p. 139-144 Titre : Application of ultrasound in eco-friendly fatliquoring of leather Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mohamed Abu Sayid Mia, Auteur ; Mohammad Nurnabi, Auteur ; Mohamed Zahangir Alam, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 139-144 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés physiques Cuirs et peaux -- Teneur en matières grasses Emulsions Granulométrie Huiles et graisses Produits de nourriture du cuir Ultrasons Viscosité Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : This article describes the effect of ultrasound on fatliquoring of leather. Preparations of fatliquor-emulsions as well as fatliquoring of leathers were carried out in presence of ultrasound. Ultrasound aids in reducing the size of fatliquor emulsion and increasing fat content of leather. It was found that the particle size of fatliquor emulsion was reduced by more than 22% and fat contents of leather were increased up to 40% due to using ultrasound. Moreover, smooth penetration and uniform distribution of fat in the processed leathers were observed. Physical properties of both ultrasoundassisted fatliquored leather and conventionally fatliquored leather were also studied in detail. Tensile strength, stitch tearing strength, tongue tearing strength, grain crack load, ball bursting load, Bauman tear strength, color fastness and perspiration of ultrasound assisted fatliquored leather were better compared to that of without ultrasound. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Experimental set-up - Fatliquoring of leather samples - Measurement of particle size - Measurement of viscosity - Determination of fat content - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Effect of sonication time on the particle size - Effect of ultrasound on the viscosity of fatliquor emulsions - Effect of ultrasound on fat content of leather - Physical properties of the fatliquored leathers - Fig. 1 : Structure of sulfited fatliquor component - Table 1 : Physico-chemical properties of leather fatliquored with 5% (w/v) Remsynol ESI emulsion using ultrasound and conventional method - Table 2 : Fastness properties of the fatliquored leather En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bTmKIVoKbA-1_v3LAG0hKqGyhEHg7Bi2/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40620 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
24535	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible