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The adverse consequences of not using sunscreens / Antony R. Young in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023) . - p. 11-19 Titre : The adverse consequences of not using sunscreens Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Antony R. Young, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 11-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cancer de la peau Coup de soleil Facteur de protection solaire Peau -- Effet du rayonnement ultraviolet Peau -- Effets du rayonnement solaire Produits antisolaires Rayonnement ultraviolet -- Effets physiologiques Vitamine D -- Synthèse Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The adverse effects of solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on normal skin are well established, especially in those with poorly melanized skin. Clinically, these effects may be classified as acute, such as erythema or chronic such as keratinocyte and melanocyte skin cancers. Apart from skin type genetics, clinical responses to solar UVR are dependent on geophysical (e.g., solar intensity) and behavioural factors. The latter are especially important because they may result in ‘solar overload’ with unwanted clinical consequences and ever greater burdens to healthcare systems. Correctly used, sunscreens can mitigate the acute and chronic effects of solar UVR exposure. Laboratory studies also show that sunscreens can inhibit the initial molecular and cellular events that are responsible for clinical outcomes. Despite public health campaigns, global trends continue to show increasing incidence of all types of skin cancer. Large-scale epidemiological studies have shown the benefits of sunscreen use in preventing skin cancer, though it is likely that sunscreen use has not been optimal in such studies. It is evident that without substantial changes in sun-seeking behaviour, sunscreen use is a very important part of the defence against the acute and chronic effects of solar exposure. Ideally, sunscreens should be able to provide the level of protection that reduces the risk of skin cancer in susceptible skin types to that observed in heavily melanized skin. Note de contenu : - Sunlight - The effects of solar uvr on skin - UVR dose effects - The importance of action spectroscopy - The role of fitzpatrick skin type (fst) - Sunscreens are designed to attenuate biologically significant uvr wavelengths - How effective are sunscreens ? - Do sunscreens compromise vitamin D synthesis ? - Benefits of solar uvr exposure other than vitamin D synthesis - Possible adverse effects of sunscreen use DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12897 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12897 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40247 [article]

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Sunscreens – another endangered species ? / Paul J. Matts in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023) . - p. 20-32 Titre : Sunscreens – another endangered species ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Paul J. Matts, Auteur ; J. Frank Nash, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 20-32 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cancer de la peau Peau -- Effet du rayonnement ultraviolet Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Produits antisolaires Rayonnement ultraviolet -- Effets physiologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin cancer continues to increase in incidence year-on-year and represents the most common form of cancer across the globe. Every human undergoes premature ageing, particularly on the face, neck and hands. Both phenomena are driven primarily by chronic, daily exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). While sunscreen products play a primary role in the prevention of UVR skin damage, the active ingredients, i.e., UVR filters, are facing unprecedented challenges in the coming 10 years and their future is by no means certain. This article, therefore, reviews afresh the facts around photoprotection and the role of sunscreen products in the prevention of acute (sunburn) and chronic (cancer, photoageing) skin damage and compares/contrasts these with various emerging questions and opinions around UVR filter technology. We present a passionate defence of this remarkable technology, but also attempt to imagine a world without it. Note de contenu : - Physics, climatology and human dosimetry of terrestrial UVR - Skin cancer – mechanism, incidence and burden - Photoageing – mechanism, incidence and burden : Two new phenomena are feeding this modern human obsession with appearance - The critical role of UV filters - Human/environmental safety challenges - Outlook for the next decade - Will anyone care ? DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12902 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12902 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40248 [article]

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Photoaging's portrait : The road map towards its photoprotection / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023) . - p. 33-44 Titre : Photoaging's portrait : The road map towards its photoprotection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; Didier Saint-Léger, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 33-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie Etudes cliniques Intelligence artificielle Photoprotection Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To summarize key research published by the author's group, dealing with skin photoaging and its photoprotection. - Materials and Methods : Two methodologies (standard photographs and selfies imaging) resulting from referential skin ageing atlases were applied on 2487 subjects of different ancestries, ages and gender. These aimed at first to best assess and grade the variable severities of some facial signs (texture/wrinkles, pigmentary spots, sagging and vascular disorders) that occur progressively during the photoaging process. Second, such methodologies were used to record the benefits brought by a photoprotective regimen (671 women and men). - Results : In all studied ancestries, each facial sign show an increase severity along decades, at its own pace, some showing a linear like progression, whereas some plateau at early ages. These changes differed according to skin innate colour (phototype) and with individual behaviours vis-à-vis sun exposures, more so among European women than North-East Asian women. An effect of gender (less severe alterations) was observed on Chinese men, as compared to Chinese women. Pigmentary disorders were found hallmarks of photo-aged North-East Asian women. Globally, photoaging impact the apparent age of the different subjects. The counteracting effects of strong topical Photoprotective regimens were evidenced along a 6-month seasonality in Chinese and French women or 1-year period in Brazilian women with phototypes II to VI. Photoprotection led to a more even skin complexion among Indian subjects with pigment irregularities. - Conclusion : Two factors clearly hamper a better assessment of the efficiency of photoprotection of the sun-induced cutaneous ageing: short durations (months) of the studies with regard to the global fate of photoaging by decades and the number of studied subjects, limited to hundreds for practical reasons. The methodology based on the automatic analysis of facial signs through selfies images could theoretically bypass both factors, allowing thousands of subjects to be studied along years. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Methodologies - Subjects - Clustering procedure for sun-phobic and non-sun-phobic groups - Qualify and quantify impact of photoprotective regimen - RESULTS : Portraying photoaging - Towards photoprotection - Table 1 : Questionnaire used to evaluate the history of sun-exposures (combined or not to a photoprotection habit) of women and men enrolled in the studies - Table 2 : Summary of some studies aiming at best describing the facial Photoaging status (2487 Men and Women) - Table 3 : Summary of the works dedicated to the effects brought by a topical photoprotective regimen (671 Men and Women) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12903 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12903 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40249 [article]

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When should sunscreen be applied : The balance between health benefit and adverse consequences to humans and the environment / Brian L. Diffey in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023) . - p. 45-51 Titre : When should sunscreen be applied : The balance between health benefit and adverse consequences to humans and the environment Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Brian L. Diffey, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 45-51 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photoprotection Produits antisolaires Rayonnement solaire Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To propose a strategy for using sunscreens that optimizes the balance between skin health and adverse effects to humans and the environment. - Methods : A model was developed to explore the relationship between sunscreen usage and personal sun exposure throughout the year in populations resident at different latitudes. - Results : There is little biological justification in terms of skin health for applying sunscreen over the 4–6 winter months at latitudes of 45° N and higher, whereas year-round sunscreen is advised at latitudes of 30° N and lower. Avoiding sunscreen application at times when it is biologically unnecessary results in an annual reduction in sunscreen use of 25%. Furthermore, using products containing UV filters over the winter months at more northerly latitudes could lead to a higher number of people with vitamin D deficiency. The single largest use of sunscreen is on a sun-seeking holiday and encouragement to make more use of clothing and shade would appreciably reduce the sunscreen burden to the environment. - Conclusion : We need to use sunscreens wisely so that we gain the health benefit from their use while at the same time limiting possible harm to ourselves and the environment. Note de contenu : - Personal UV exposure - Sunscreen use DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12906 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12906 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40250 [article]

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Cosmetic UV filters in the environment-state of the art in EU regulations, science and possible knowledge gaps / Sascha Pawlowski in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023) . - p. 52-66 Titre : Cosmetic UV filters in the environment-state of the art in EU regulations, science and possible knowledge gaps Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sascha Pawlowski, Auteur ; Laura Henriette Luetjens, Auteur ; Alina Preibisch, Auteur ; Stephanie Acker, Auteur ; Mechtild Petersen-Thiery, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 52-66 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie industrielle -- Législation -- Pays de l'Union européenne cosmétiques -- Produits chimiques Produits antisolaires Règlements de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The aim of this work was to review the principals of environmental hazard and risk assessment (ERA) of cosmetic UV filters registered under EU REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals). Furthermore, effects as obtained from non-standardized testing methods and organisms from scientific literature were compared against the predicted no effect concentrations (PNECs) as derived based on standardized test methods for the various environmental compartments under REACH. - Methods : The REACH dossiers at the ECHA webpage were screened for available information related to basic physico–chemical data (i.e. water solubility, octanol–water partitioning coefficient), PNECs and associated data (data basis, assessment factors (AFs)). Scientific literature was screened for available ecotoxicity data and the adverse effect levels were compared against the derived PNECs under REACH. Current approaches for environmental risk assessments of UV filters were evaluated for its applicability for a direct release scenario. - Results : Under REACH, PNECs were derived for all hazardous UV filters. Although, PNECs were often derived for various environmental compartments (i.e. freshwater, marine water, sediment, soil), results from literature focused on aquatic data. Effects as observed within scientific literature matches in principle with the hazardous profile of the UV filters. Effects levels both on the acute and the chronic toxicity as retrieved from the non-standardized test organisms (literature) were above the derived PNECs under REACH. Currently, ERAs performed for cosmetic UV filters under REACH are solely tonnage driven and thus do not fully capture the use in sunscreens and associated leisure activities. - Conclusion : Existing EU REACH regulation is considered as sufficient to evaluate the environmental safety of UV filters used in sunscreens. To cover the direct release of UV filters due to various leisure activities into the aquatic freshwater and marine environment, an additional application-based ERA is considered necessary. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Review of information requirements for UV filters under REACH - Extraction of relevant information from REACH dossiers - Extraction of relevant information from literature review - Comparison of effect levels from non-standardized test organisms with derived PNECs under EU REACH - RESULTS : Review of information requirements for UV filters and principles of environmental risk assessments (ERAs) under REACH - Review of relevant information related to the environmental safety of UV filters within EU REACH - Review of scientific literature - Comparison of REACH derived PNECs with toxicity levels from non-standardized tests - Table 1 : Overview of investigated UV filters and relevant physical–chemical properties - Table 2 : Overview of principal environmentally related data requirements for substances such as UV filters used in sunscreens under REACH - Table 3 : Freshwater : Predicted no effect concentrations (PNECfreshwater) from the REACH registration dossier of UV filters and most sensitive data on various organisms from literature (acute and chronic) - Table 4 : Marine water: Predicted no effect concentrations (PNECmarine water) from the REACH registration dossier of UV filters and most sensitive data on various organisms from literature (acute and chronic) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12898 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12898 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40251 [article]

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UV filter occurrence in beach water of the Mediterranean coast – A field survey over 2 years in Palavas-les-Flots, France / Delphine Thallinger in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023) . - p. 67-83 Titre : UV filter occurrence in beach water of the Mediterranean coast – A field survey over 2 years in Palavas-les-Flots, France Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Delphine Thallinger, Auteur ; Jérôme Labille, Auteur ; Thomas Milinkovitch, Auteur ; Jean-Luc Boudenne, Auteur ; Frédéric Loosli, Auteur ; Danielle Slomberg, Auteur ; Bernard Angeletti, Auteur ; Christel Lefrançois, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 67-83 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale Chimie analytique Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement cosmétiques -- Produits chimiques Environnement -- Etudes d'impact Evaluation du risque Plages -- Pollution Produits antisolaires Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : A 2-year sampling campaign was realized on French Mediterranean beach (Palavas-les-Flots Hérault) in order to measure the concentration of UV filters released from the sunscreen used by bathers. Multiple factors suspected of playing determining roles in the UV filter pattern in water were explored, such as the seasonal and daily time evolutions, or the vertical and horizontal distributions, and they were regarded through the UV filter characteristics. - Methods : The beach was monitored during periods of high and low tourist attendance, typically before, during and after the summer peak. The beachgoers attendance was counted. Bathing water was sampled distinctly from the bulk column and from the top surface layer, testing different sampling tools. Sediments and mussels were also sampled and analysed as potential UV filter sinks. Three organic UV filters (octocrylene OCR, avobenzone BMDBM and octyl methoxycinnamate OMC) and one mineral (titanium dioxide TiO2) were studied here as representatives of the current cosmetic market. - Results : Summer peak attendance on the beach was confirmed associated with peak levels of UV filter concentration in the bathing water, even more pronounced during a heat wave period. This relation was also observed at day scale with an afternoon peak, suggesting a rapid evolution of the UV filter pattern in water. Contrasted fates were measured between the four studied UV filters, that could be mainly explained by their respective characteristics, i.e. particulate or dissolved, hydrophilic or lipophilic, lifetime. Generally, this resulted in a concentration ranking TiO2 > OCR > OMC > BMDBM, ranging from 0.5 to 500 μg/L. The most lipophilic and recalcitrant OCR was found most vertically differentiated and over concentrated in the top surface layer of water. Finally, a large horizontal heterogeneity was also observed in the UV filter concentration pattern, raising the need for sample replicates that cover a significant area. - Conclusion : This work fulfils some knowledge gaps on the issue of UV filter release in coastal environments, not only by providing original field data and methodological recommendations but also importantly in the comparison made of organic and mineral UV filters, which are often considered separately and rarely evaluated at the same time. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Study site: Palavas-les-Flots Beach - Sampling methods - Geographical recordings - Water analysis - Polypropylene sorbent sheet analysis - Sediment analysis - Mussel analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Time evolution of UV filters in water through 2020–2021 - Vertical distribution and persistence of the UV filters in the water column - Horizontal heterogeneities of UV filters in water - UV filter accumulation in sediments and mussels - CONCLUDING REMARKS : Parameters shaping the UV filter pattern in seawater - Biological implications of UV filters in seawater - Table 1 : Summary of sampling times, replicates and methods in 2020 and 2021 - Table 2 : Linear slope of the UV filter series in Figure 2 and characteristics of the different UV filters - Table 3 : TiO2 concentrations found in sediments 2020–2021 and mussels 2020 DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12904 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12904 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40252 [article]

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Influence of sunscreen formulation on the transfer of mineral and organic ultraviolet filters from skin to seawater in simulated ocean bathing tests / Jennifer K. Saxe in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023) . - p. 84-92 Titre : Influence of sunscreen formulation on the transfer of mineral and organic ultraviolet filters from skin to seawater in simulated ocean bathing tests Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jennifer K. Saxe, Auteur ; Larry Mullins, Auteur ; Randy Jones, Auteur ; Alan Lewis, Auteur ; Frank Sun, Auteur ; Kurt A. Reynertson, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 84-92 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimie analytique Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Cosmétiques -- Effets de la pollution de l'eau cosmétiques -- Produits chimiques Eau -- Pollution Eau de mer Environnement -- Etudes d'impact Formulation (Génie chimique) Milieu marin -- Pollution Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Significant research and regulatory attention have been focussed on the potential for some ultraviolet filters (UVFs) to rinse off from beachgoers' skin into seawater leading to exposure to sea life, especially coral reefs. The amount of UVFs potentially rinsed from skin during recreational beach activities has not been well studied, leading to uncertainty about the potential magnitude of aquatic UVF exposure due to changes in sunscreen use patterns. This study quantifies rinse-off of UVFs in sunscreen from skin into synthetic seawater and identifies differences in rinse-off quantity due to formulation type with a goal of informing future modelling efforts aimed at estimating UVF exposure to sea life associated with recreational activities at the beach. - Methods : UVF rinse-off from skin during recreation in seawater was simulated by applying eight different sunscreen products to porcine skin samples followed by three periods of shaking in synthetic seawater totalling 40 min. The rinsed mass of six UVFs – zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, avobenzone, homosalate, octisalate, and octocrylene – was determined analytically in synthetic seawater and in extractant rinsate from glassware for organic UVFs and compared among formulas. - Results : Among the 22 UVF-formulation combinations tested, 19 resulted in less than 10% of the applied UVF rinsed from skin. All formulation-UVF combinations where the formula types were water-in-oil (reverse phase) emulsions or anhydrous resulted in 5% or less of the applied UVF rinsed to synthetic seawater. Sunscreens formulated as oil-in-water emulsions yielded higher rinse-off percentages for all UVFs tested, with a maximum of 20% rinse-off of avobenzone in one lotion. - Conclusion : The potential for sunscreen UVF rinse-off is significantly influenced by formulation and is generally well below the prior assumed rinse-off levels used to estimate risk. Formulation consideration is therefore essential for accurate exposure models used in environmental risk assessment. Anhydrous and reverse phase (water-in-oil) sunscreen formulations tested resulted in lower UVF transfer from skin to synthetic seawater in simulated ocean bathing tests and as a result, are expected to yield lower UVF exposures to sea life. This approach can be used in predictive environmental exposure models to support ecologically safe sunscreen formulation design. Note de contenu : - Table 1 : Formulation types and measured ultraviolet filter (UVF) content for sunscreen formulations in this study DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12901 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12901 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40253 [article]

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Repurposing consumer sunscreen habits and practices survey data to guide the development of UV filter environmental exposure models and risk assessments / Andrea M. Carrao in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023) . - p. 93-100 Titre : Repurposing consumer sunscreen habits and practices survey data to guide the development of UV filter environmental exposure models and risk assessments Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Andrea M. Carrao, Auteur ; Celine N. Schmitt, Auteur ; Scott D. Dyer, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 93-100 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement cosmétiques -- Produits chimiques Evaluation du risque Modèles numériques Produits antisolaires Statistiques Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : A key factor that is deficient in most environmental emissions assessments for UV filters is a keen understanding of consumer habits and practices that can inform realistic exposure assessments. This study utilized a large volunteer survey (>11 000 persons) that captured many factors that affect consumer-based loadings to aquatic environments. The purpose of this study was to utilize this large survey to identify factors that affect the amount of sunscreen products used by consumers. - Methods : Correlations among more than 20 variables were used to provide an understanding of the overall dataset and identify factors that may be related to the amount of sunscreen product applied to the body (i.e., application thickness). Forward multiple linear regressions were used to identify the relative importance of each of these factors alone and in combination with others in predicting the amount of applied sunscreen. - Results : The proportion of body surface area (BSA) covered by sunscreen was the primary factor related to application thickness, followed by body surface area of the survey participant, seasonal usage, Fitzpatrick skin type and the sun protection factor, respectively. Each of the five regression models examined was statistically highly significant. - Conclusions : Comparisons to recommendations from the National Academies of Science, Engineering and Medicine parameters illustrated sufficient differences so as to encourage the development of future consumer habits and practice surveys that include factors beyond the scope of this study (e.g., activities, time of day, year, location, etc.) that can lead to improved exposure and risk assessments. Note de contenu : - Online survey of sunscreen usage - Database construction and quality control - Statistics - Correlation analysis and summary statistics - Stepwise regression analysis - Table 1 : Twenty-one variables and their respective definitions were investigated for their potential role in addressing application thickness (non-transformed and log10 transformed) - Table 2 : Summary statistics and percentile distributions of survey participants' BSA, the percent of the body covered by sunscreen (BSA Coverage), time spent at or in bodies of water expressed as days per year and hours per day, respectively - Table 3 : Forward stepwise regressions relating the relative importance of independent variables in predicting application thickness DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12899 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40254 [article]

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Status quo on identified transformation products of organic ultraviolet filters and their persistence / Franziska Jentzsch in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023) . - p. 101-126 Titre : Status quo on identified transformation products of organic ultraviolet filters and their persistence Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Franziska Jentzsch, Auteur ; Klaus Kümmerer, Auteur ; Oliver Olsson, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 101-126 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement cosmétiques -- Produits chimiques Micropolluants Photostabilité Polluants -- Détérioration Produits antisolaires Produits chimiques -- Biodégradation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Organic micropollutants of concern-including organic UV filters (UVF)-are getting increasing attention. Personal care products such as sunscreens or cosmetic articles often contain large quantities of UVF. These substances enter the environment either directly (during outdoor activities) or indirectly (via sewages from households). Therefore, the removal or degradation of UVF by natural or technical treatment processes is important to understand. UVF are often incompletely removed and transformed to side products of incomplete mineralization by abiotic and biotic processes. An extensive overview on transformation products (TPs) is essential to systematically identify knowledge gaps and to derive research needs. While there are many reviews on the UVF themselves, the number of reviews which focus on their TPs is limited. Consequently, this review gives an overview on the latest findings regarding TPs of UVF. In this publication, known TPs of UVF, which were formed during abiotic and biotic processes, are reviewed. Target substances were defined and a literature database was reviewed for studies on TPs of the target substances. The first list of studies was shortened stepwise, thus generating a final list of studies which contained only the relevant studies. Since biodegradation is one of the most important pathways for removal of organic compounds from the environment, this review presents an overview on known TPs of organic UVF and their biodegradability, which determines their environmental fate. In this way, all identified TPs of UVF were listed and checked for information on their biodegradability. A total of 2731 records of studies were assessed. Forty-two studies, which assessed 46 processes that lead to the formation of identified TPs, were included in this review. One hundred and seventyseven different TPs resulting from 11 different UVF were identified. Little to no data on the biodegradability was found for TPs. This indicates a severe lack of data on the biodegradability of TPs of organic UVF substances. Since most TPs lack information on biodegradability, further research should provide information on both-identity and biodegradability-of formed TPs to be able to assess their hazardousness for the environment. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Target substance selection - Generation of the final data set - Documentation and handling of the final data set - Refactoring of the final data set - Addition of quality markers to the final data set - Biodegradability of the TPs listed in the final literature data set - DEVELOPMENT OF AVAILABLE INTERNATIONAL SCIENTIFIC STUDIES ON UV FILTERS AND THEIR TRANSFORMATION PRODUCTS - OUTCOME AND INSIGHTS OF THE LITERATURE SEARCH - INCOMPLETE DEGRADATION OF UV FILTERS BY ABIOTIC AND BIOTIC PROCESSES - TRANSFORMATION PRODUCTS OF UV FILTER AND UV FILTER MIXTURES - STABILITY OF TRANSFORMATION PRODUCTS OF UV FILTER : Biodegradability - Photostability - In silico assessment of stability - Interim conclusion on the stability of UVF-TPs according to the reviewed literature - Biodegradability of UVF-TPs according to the ECHA (database) reports - CHALLENGES REVIEWING TRANSFORMATION PRODUCTS OF UV FILTERS AND THEIR BIODEGRADABILITY - CONSEQUENCES FOR THE ENVIRONMENTAL PERSPECTIVE AND RECOMMENDATIONS FOR FURTHER RESEARCH - Table 1 : Overview of 46 abiotic and biotic processes of 11 UVF reported in 42 studies (n = number of studied processes) - Table 2 : List of all reviewed TPs (TPtotal: 187) of 11 UV filter substances and one mixture, assigned with name, CAS number and relevant transformation process - Table 3 : Overview on the stability of certain TPs (extracted from literature, limited by data availability) - Table 4 : Shortened list of the TPs (based on list of TPtotal) for which the literature and/or ECHA database (April 2022) provided information on the stability DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12908 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12908 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40255 [article]

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Nanomaterials in sunscreens : Potential human and ecological health implications / Arturo A. Keller in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023) . - p. 127-140 Titre : Nanomaterials in sunscreens : Potential human and ecological health implications Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Arturo A. Keller, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 127-140 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Composés inorganiques -- Toxicologie Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Cosmétiques -- Toxicologie Dioxyde de titane Milieu marin -- Pollution Nanoparticules Oxyde de zinc Produits antisolaires Récifs coralliens Risques écotoxicologiques Risques pour la santé Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Inorganic nanomaterials such as TiO2 and ZnO provide significant benefits in terms of UV protection, and their use generally has increased in commercial sunscreens. However, more recently there have been concerns about their potential human and ecological health implications, mostly driven by perception rather than by formal assessments. The large and increasing body of literature on these nanomaterials indicates that in most circumstances their risk are minimal. Penetration of the human epidermis is minimal for these nanomaterials, significantly reducing the potential effects that these nanomaterials may pose to internal organs. The excess Zn ion dose is very small compared to normal dietary consumption of Zn, which is a necessary element. The levels of residual nanomaterials or released ions in public swimming pools is also low, with minimal effect in case this water is ingested during swimming or bathing. In natural environments with significant water flow due to wind and water currents, the concentrations of nanomaterials and released ions are generally well below levels that would cause effects in aquatic organisms. However, sensitive habitats with slow currents, such as coral reefs, may accumulate these nanomaterials. The number of studies of the levels and effects of nanomaterials in these sensitive habitats is very small; more research is needed to determine if there is an elevated risk to these ecosystems from the use of sunscreens with these nanomaterials. Note de contenu : - EXPOSURE ASSESSMENT : Human dermal exposure - Exposure in aquatic environments - Exposure in swimming pools - Exposure in natural waters - Release from wastewater treatment plants - TOXICITY : Human toxicity of inorganic nano UV filters - Ecotoxicity of inorganic nano UV filters DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12905 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12905 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40256 [article]

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