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JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) / Union internationale des sociétés de techniciens et chimistes des industries du cuir . Vol. 84, N° 1Mention de date : 01-02/2000Paru le : 15/01/2000 |
Dépouillements
Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierSuitability of leather for garments differences in selected properties attributable to processing and sampling location / S. Lange in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 84, N° 1 (01-02/2000)
[article]
Titre : Suitability of leather for garments differences in selected properties attributable to processing and sampling location Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Lange, Auteur ; B. E. Niven, Auteur ; R. M. Laing, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 1-5 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Français (fre) Catégories : Cuir nappa
Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés physiques
Cuirs et peaux de daims
Cuirs et peaux de moutons
NubuckLe nubuck1 est une croute de daim ou de cuir. Sa particularité vient du fait qu'il a subi un traitement particulier. En effet, sa surface a été meulée ou grattée au papier de verre très fin. C'est pourquoi il revêt cette apparence veloutée et sa douceur au toucher. Le ponçage de la fleur lui donne un aspect qui diffère largement du suède. Comme seule la surface externe du cuir est touchée par le traitement, il possède une meilleure résistance et conserve toute la finesse de son grain.
Il est utilisé particulièrement dans l'industrie de l'ameublement pour la fabrication des fauteuils et canapés ainsi que par l'industrie de la chaussure. Il est souvent assez coûteux, car c'est une matière qui a une certaine noblesse. Son nom provient probablement de la langue anglaise, et de new buck qui signifie nouveau daim.
Textiles et tissus
Vêtements -- Conception et construction
Vêtements en cuirIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Test methods (FAST) developed to assess the suitability of woven materials for use in tailored garments were applied to different types of lightweight ovine garment leather, where the differences were derived from processing. A 33 factorial experimental design with the kind of leather (nappa, nubuck, suede), its thickness (0.8, 0.9, 1.1 mm), and the duration of dry drumming during processing (0, 45, 120 minutes), was used to identify factors and interactions among factors likely to affect the construction and appearance of leather garments. Specimens were cut from different locations and orientations on the skins. The location and orientation of the specimen had a more significant effect on physical properties than the processing variables. The garment leather was generally heavier, stiffer, and more extensible than woven fabrics recommended for use in tailored garments, and these properties may cause problems in garment manufacture and use. Variation of these properties was comparable to (but slightly larger than) that for batches of suiting textiles. Note de contenu : - METHODS :
- Materials
- Measurement of physical properties
- Sampling
- Statistical analysis
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION :
- Processing
- Table 1 : Significance levels of differences in properties within and among skins from different processing methods
- Table 2 : Physical properties of ovine garment leather - Summary by location
- Table 3 : Comparison of selected properties of garment leather with those recommended for woven materialsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p-BFBnPAUzqZonDPUaTZ0I-OM9SBFipI/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41616
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 84, N° 1 (01-02/2000) . - p. 1-5[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire Lime splitting - A case study / C. Mance in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 84, N° 1 (01-02/2000)
[article]
Titre : Lime splitting - A case study Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : C. Mance, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 6-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Français (fre) Catégories : Chaux
Fleur du cuir
Refendage
Wet-blue (tannage)Peau tannée au chrome (le chrome donne une couleur bleue)Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : In November 1995 a leading European producer of wet-blue leather commenced a research and development program involving a thorough examination of the in-house leather splitting operation. With an annual production capacity of more than 500,000 hides mostly grain split wet-blue for automotive and furniture upholstery —this wet-blue tanner was committed to the achievement of optimum splitting results that facilitated the production of quality wet-blue.
This technical paper includes detailed drawings illustrating specific lime splitting problems experienced by the producer of grain-split wet-blue.
a) inconsistent gauge readings after splitting
b) breakage of bandknives
c) gauge roller and ring roller “wrap arounds”
Special emphasis is given to solving lime splitting
problems attributable to 1) splitting machine set-up and 2) feed roller selection.Note de contenu : - "REMOVING THE MYSTERY"
- WHY SPLIT IN LIME ? :
- Key Objectives of Lime Splitting
- The swollen limed pelt
- The pressure zone
- PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS OF WET-BLUE PLANT (BEAMHOUSE)En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iHv8poQBJqK-0vj2ElHx4LVGJuS1VZgD/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41617
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 84, N° 1 (01-02/2000) . - p. 6-19[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire Choices in the treatment of gilt leather wallhangings / R. S. Thomson in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 84, N° 1 (01-02/2000)
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Titre : Choices in the treatment of gilt leather wallhangings Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : R. S. Thomson, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 20-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Français (fre) Catégories : Antiquités (objets anciens) -- Analyse
Antiquités (objets anciens) -- Conservation et restauration
Cuir doré
Cuirs et peaux -- Entretien et réparationsIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The conservation and restoration of three rooms full of gilt leather wall hangings will be considered with reference to the physical, aesthetic, environmental and financial constraints imposed by the surroundings within which the work was carried out. Varying options ranging from a minimal “archaeological” type approach to a heavily interventional treatment will be discussed.
A novel method for treating splits and tears in-silu will be described.Note de contenu : - GILT LEATHER :
- Brickwall House, near Northiam, East Sussex
- Levens Hall, near Kendal, Cumbria
- Callendar House, FalkirkEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1o2zpQ6JADuVtHp81uuQQHGAehAViD609/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41618
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 84, N° 1 (01-02/2000) . - p. 20-28[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire Collagen hydrolysate soluble skin applied in post-tanning processes - Part 1. Characterisation / Carlos S. Cantera in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 84, N° 1 (01-02/2000)
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Titre : Collagen hydrolysate soluble skin applied in post-tanning processes - Part 1. Characterisation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Carlos S. Cantera, Auteur ; L. Goya, Auteur ; R. Mingo, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 29-37 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Français (fre) Catégories : Caractérisation
Dérayures de cuir chromé
Hydrolysat de collagène
Post-tannageIndex. décimale : 675.2 Préparation du cuir naturel. Tannage Résumé : Upgrading solid wastes of a protein nature means a change in the modality of "throwing away" proteins and considering their reutilisation, i.e. in technological agricultural applications and as a raw material for the manufacture of industrial products.
The processing of chrome shavings by alkaline-enzymatic hydrolysis leads to obtaining a collagenhydrolysate (CH) and the recovery of the tanning material through the dissolution of the so-called 'chrome cake'.
The CH applied in leather manufacturing performs a synergistic action with retanning agents, in addition to its "cosmetic-lubricating" effect that enhances the leather grain properties and provides greater softness, improving the resistance of the fibrous tissue. Also, there is a ‘restoring effect’ upon the grain surface of semi-finished leather, thus masking preservation defects and damage marks on the skin. The interaction with dyes is made evident by intensified colours and homogeneous dyeing.
For a better understanding of the interactions between CH and the agents involved in the post-tanning processes or for the elaboration of derivative compounds for specific purposes, it is important to know certain issues concerning reactivity in the mixture of the polypeptides contained in collagen hydrolysate.
This paper provides an analysis protocol for the characterisation of collagen hydrolysate, which provides relevant data both for the control of the CFI and for the appropriate design of its various applications.Note de contenu : - Applications of collagen hydrolysate
- The use of collagen hydrolysate in the leather industry
- Characterisation of the collagen hydrolysate : Protocol of the analysis
- Table 1 : p1-1 ranges for the analysis of gelatin titration curves (*)
- Table 2 : Interpretation of the titration curve of collagen hydrolysate
- Table 3 : Changes in total N-terminal residues in limed geIatin—Data for collagen hydrolysate were included (in mmols/g protein)
- Table 4 : Characteristics of the collagen hydrolysate manufactured at CITEC-alkaline-enzymatic hydrolysis of chrome shavingsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XVw06uufmkt6UwyAPA2_ZE5zeV4JkRCc/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41619
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 84, N° 1 (01-02/2000) . - p. 29-37[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire Kinetics of combined microwave and hot air drying of leather / J. Monzô-Cabrera in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 84, N° 1 (01-02/2000)
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Titre : Kinetics of combined microwave and hot air drying of leather Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : J. Monzô-Cabrera, Auteur ; A. Diaz-Morcillo, Auteur ; J. M. Catala-Civera, Auteur ; E. de Los Reyes, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 38-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuir -- Séchage
Diélectriques
Micro-ondesIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The characteristics of microwave-assisted drying of chrome tanned leather were studied for several air flow and microwave power conditions. Drying rates, temperature variation and dielectric properties of leather are presented and a physical model is proposed to explain the behaviour under microwave radiation.
Specially designed microwave equipment was built and used to carry out the tests. The results obtained look promising as the drying rates are greatly accelerated without damaging the leather.En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1r8Nc2oKsT6w2IcwZSCtDhptW1S5j1CRB/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41620
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 84, N° 1 (01-02/2000) . - p. 38-44[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire Epoxysilane : A new crosslinker for water-borne polyurethane finishes / Wang Wusheng in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 84, N° 1 (01-02/2000)
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Titre : Epoxysilane : A new crosslinker for water-borne polyurethane finishes Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Wang Wusheng, Auteur ; Zeng Jun, Auteur ; Ruan De-Li, Auteur ; Zhong Feng, Auteur ; Pan Cai-Yuan, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 45-47 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Finition
Epoxy-silane
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Polymères en émulsion
Polyuréthanes
Réticulation (polymérisation)
Revêtements -- Propriétés physiquesIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The applications of carboxyl aqueous polyurethane dispersion crosslinked by epoxysilane for leather finishing have been reported. The crosslinking mechanism and morphology of crosslinked film were studied. It was found that the crosslinked film has a soft uncrosslinked continuous phase. The leather coating properties, such as wet rubfastness, wet flexing resistance and wet adhesion were dramatically improved by the addition of epoxysilane. Dry flex resistance of crosslinked finish and lightfastness were little affected. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL :
- Material
- FORMULATION OF FINISHING :
- Testing methods
- Physical testing of the finish
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION :
- The crosslinking mechanism and morphology of casting film
- The physical properties of the finish
- Table 1 : Physical characteristics of the aqueous polyurethane dispersions
- Table 2 : Formulation of the finishes
- Table 3 : Physical properties of epoxysilane cast film
- Table 4 : Physical properties of the finishEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qHPYBJmusIdzBaFe-iyDtZYOFrGr34hU/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41621
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 84, N° 1 (01-02/2000) . - p. 45-47[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire The effects of hair shaving on unhairing reactions. Part 2 - A new mechanism of unhairing / H. A. M. El Baba in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 84, N° 1 (01-02/2000)
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Titre : The effects of hair shaving on unhairing reactions. Part 2 - A new mechanism of unhairing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : H. A. M. El Baba, Auteur ; Anthony D. Covington, Auteur ; D. Davighi, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 48-53 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux de bovins
Epilage enzymatique
Poils -- DétériorationIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé :
Shaving the hair from cattle hides exposes the internal structure of the hair shaft. When hair burning is conducted in the presence of proteolytic enzyme, the central portion of the hair, the medulla, is dissolved, causing the collapse of the hair. The opening of the hair centre allows access by the unhairing agents down the inside of the hair to the base of the follicle, causing the hair to be degraded at the bulb and pre-keratinised zone, and so it is detached from the root. Detaching and collapsing of the shaft allows the residual hair to be completely removed from the follicle by mechanical action.
The unhairing effect is total hair removal, but by hair burning chemistry.Note de contenu : - Table 1 : Weight loss caused by NUE treatment of cut hairs
- Table 2 : The effects of unhairing agents on the degradation of isolated hovine hairs, intact or cut in half, native or immunised: degradation of the bulb, scale of zero to ***
- Table 3 : The effects of unhairing agents on the degradation of isobted bovine hairs, intact or cut in half, native or immunised: degradation of the prekeratinised zone, scale of zero to ***
- Table 4 : The effects of unhairing agents on the degradation of isolated bovine hairs, intact or cut in half, native or immunised : degradation of the
medulla, scale of zero to ***
- Table 5 : The effects of unhairing agents on the degradation of isolated bovine hairs, intact or cut in half, native or immunised: degradation of the
cortex, scale of zero to ***
- Table 6 : The effects of unhairing agents on the degradation of isolated bovine hairs, intact or cut in half, native or immunised: degradation of the cuticle, scale of zero to ***
- Table 7 : The effects of cutting and immunising hair on the mechanism of hair burningEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kdFXIG_qtwuM63dQkuMluZqk3gKs2RPI/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41622
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 84, N° 1 (01-02/2000) . - p. 48-53[article]Exemplaires
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