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Safety & effectiveness of fullerene cosmetics / Shinobu Ito in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022) . - p. 17-20 Titre : Safety & effectiveness of fullerene cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Shinobu Ito, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 17-20 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Antioxydants Dermo-cosmétologie Ingrédients cosmétiques Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Fullerenes are allotropes of the same carbon as diamond and graphite, and are present in plants carbonised by lightning strikes or in special minerals. There are two types of fullerenes currently on the market: ‘fullerenes’, a complex of C60, C70, etc., and ‘fullerene’, which consists only of C60 or C70 (Figure 1). They have a spherical structure that is completely different from needle-shaped carbon nanotubes. They are used in various fields because of their high oxidationreduction (redox) performance. Formulations containing fullerenes have been sold in skin care cosmetics in the US and Asia since 2005, but the EU does not yet recognise fullerene as a cosmetic ingredient. The EU Scientific Committee on Consume Safety (SCCS) issued a document entitled ‘Request for a Scientific Opinion on Fullerenes and Hydroxylated Fullerenes’ on 6 July 2021, and this is presumed to confirm their safety. Note de contenu : - Safety tests on fullerenes - Antioxidants & anti-ageing effects - Uses in cosmetic dermattology - Side effects - Risk from external use En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TaYOaNzDjHW6k-fYwY-JlGLJwhfw1ZkY/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37227 [article]

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Men or women : creating dedicated products / Lorraine Denois in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022) . - p. 22-23 Titre : Men or women : creating dedicated products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lorraine Denois, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 22-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Texture Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peau masculine Produits de beauté masculins Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The arrival of COVID-19 has slowed the anticipated growth of the market for men's grooming products. However, this market, which was worth €41.2 billion in 2020,1 is projected to double by 2031 with an annual growth rate of 8%.2 As men use more and more products in their beauty routine, brands should focus on what they need. There are real physiological differences between men's and women's skin. In terms of ageing and other needs, men's skin has it's own specificities and must therefore be treated differently from women's. Note de contenu : - Male skin specifics - The right products - Fig. 1 : Modulating texture & transparency in formulation - Table 1 : Water-saving four-in-one shaving formulation - Table 2 : Two-in-one foaming bar body & hair cleanser formulation - Table 3 : Fresh water drop formulation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aoZ-DiWSu1cSR79DlU5bQ9goEp6Va82g/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37228 [article]

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Simple and clean men's formulations / Tatyana Tabakman in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022) . - p. 28-29 Titre : Simple and clean men's formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tatyana Tabakman, Auteur ; Edward Bartholomey, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 28-29 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barbe et moustache -- Soins et hygiène Bosses de rasage Cosmétiques Déodorants Dermo-cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits après-rasage Produits de beauté masculins Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The demand for men's grooming products continues to grow as more and more men are starting to care about their personal look. The most popular products are for hair and skin and there has been an increase in demand for new formulations since men's skin and hair requirements are different and unique. Male grooming formulations must deliver quick and multibeneficial results and the formulas must be simple. We will provide an overview of simple and clean formulations for beard care, after shaves, facial moisturisers and cleansing products made with Kobo's portfolio of skin moisturisers and nourishing complexes, microspheres, effect pigments, natural scrubbing beads, a sugarcane based humectant and charcoal powder. Note de contenu : - Group 1 : Aluminium-free deodorant stick - Group 2 : Products for moustaches & beards : Conditioning of facial hair - How to treat after shave bumps - Group 3 : Men's facial skin care routine formulations - Formulation example 1 : Unisex natural deodorant stick (KFL-255) - Formulation example 2 : Natural post-workout neutralizing powder (KPW-029) - Formulation example 3 : Men's conditioning face & beard cleansing gelée (KCL-024B) - Formulation example 4 : Rash guard cream (KSL-465) - Formulation example 5 : Foot cream for men (KFL-268) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LfDNZ7Nyovna_zFL3L8uJ5OnobO1gNH2/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37229 [article]

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A single ingredient for all types of skin ageing / Sekyoo Jeong in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022) . - p. 31-33 Titre : A single ingredient for all types of skin ageing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sekyoo Jeong, Auteur ; Keedon Park, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 31-33 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Autophagie L’autophagie, autolyse ou autophagocytose, désigne une dégradation d'une partie du cytoplasme de la cellule par ses propres lysosomes. L'histolyse est le même processus, mais intervenant lors d'une métamorphose, il est utile à l'organisme (par exemple, les amphibiens). L'histolyse est également présente au cours du développement embryonnaire ou en fin de lactation. Le terme d'autophagie regroupe plusieurs voies de dégradation lysosomale des constituants cellulaires, essentielles à l’homéostasie cellulaire. Il existe trois types différents d’autophagies dont : la microautophagie, l’autophagie réalisée par des protéines chaperonnes, et la macroautophagie (la forme principale). La macroautophagie, appelée couramment autophagie, est un mécanisme permettant à la cellule de digérer une partie de son contenu, que ce soit du cytoplasme, des protéines ou des organites cellulaires. C’est la seule voie qui puisse dégrader massivement des macromolécules et des organites, c’est une voie de dégradation alternative à celle du protéasome. Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In addition to the phenotypic skin-ageing classification of chronological (intrinsic) ageing and photo (extrinsic) ageing, several new terms describing multiple aspects of skin ageing have been introduced recently. These include inflammageing, barri-ageing and sensiti-ageing. While these terms do not completely explain the complex mechanism of skin ageing, each tries to explain the major biological events associated with the ageing process and provides the mechanistic backgrounds for developing new antiageing cosmetic ingredients. As a result of these efforts, various kinds of bioactive ingredients have been introduced and efforts have been made to develop a single ingredient capable of addressing all these aspects of skin ageing at once. Autophagy, derived from Greek words meaning 'self' and ‘eating', is a process which removes the unnecessary, worn-out microorganelles or dysfunctional proteins through a lysosome-dependent regulated mechanism. Recently, studies have suggested an important role for autophagy in skin homeostasis and the potential use of autophagy-stimulating cosmetic ingredients has received a lot of attention. Note de contenu : - Classifical classification of skin ageing - Autophagy : Core machinery for skin homeostasis - Inflamm-ageing - Barri-ageing - Sensiti-ageing En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N4iLNDlKw1PaFgE6_l9yyEhDGNH2xO6F/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37230 [article]

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Skin anti-ageing properties of a microalga extract / Giorgio Dell'Acqua in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022) . - p. 35-37 Titre : Skin anti-ageing properties of a microalga extract Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Giorgio Dell'Acqua, Auteur ; Francesca Germani, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 35-37 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues unicellulaires Antiâge Biomolécules actives Collagène -- Synthèse Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Microalgae are considered to be single-cell factories. When cultivated in bioreactors, they consistently produce a sustainable and safe biomass through an optimal photosynthesis process, where culture media, pH, temperature, nutrients, and levels of dissolved oxygen and CO2 are strictly controlled. The biomass is rich in active ingredients with healthy benefits, including sugars, amino acids, lipids, polyphenols and vitamins. While the lipidic fraction of microalgae has found applications in biofuels and nutritional supplements, the additional presence in the water-fraction of high levels of carbohydrates, amino acids and polyphenols has supported the use of microalgae extracts in cosmetics as well, specifically for their antioxidant, antiinflammatory, moisturising, lightening and antiageing properties. Moreover, by cultivating microalgae and controlling their growth as well as their content, it is possible to produce functional actives sustainably and reproducibly. This optimised process reduces the need for a wild source, and is therefore more sustainable and also cleaner because there is no risk of pollutants. We cultivated a specific Nannochloropsis microalga from the North Sea, Nannochloropsis Granulata, in controlled and optimised conditions. This microalga, which was first identified in the mid-1990s,6 has a high photosynthetic efficiency, with a large biomass. While the lipid component of the microalga is usually directed towards the nutritional supply chain, the remaining water-soluble fraction is mostly viewed as a by-product and wasted. Because of its value, we extracted the watersoluble fraction containing sugars, amino acids and polyphenols, and concentrated it in an active ingredient for topical use. We then tested the capacity of the product, whose trade name is Akosky Vanity (INCI : Glycerin, Aqua (Water), Nannochloropsis Granulata Extract), to reduce skin ageing, specifically its ability to stimulate collagen production in cell lines and to increase skin firmness and elasticity in healthy volunteers when applied in a finished formulation. Note de contenu : - Extract preparation & analysis - In vitro testing - Clinical study - Statistical analysis En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J0gLOYC7vCogCLrybRodOfqivXckHuyP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37231 [article]

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A biodegradable, broad-spectrum antibacterial / Anna Gripp in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022) . - p. 39-40 Titre : A biodegradable, broad-spectrum antibacterial Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anna Gripp, Auteur ; Christine Abbastante, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 39-40 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antibactériens Bactéries à gram négatif Bactéries à gram positif Chlorure de cétylpyridinium Conservateurs (chimie) Déodorants Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : When it comes to formulating personal care products, it is critical to select the most effective anti-bacterial agent. Especially when it comes to preservation, no single preservative is equally effective against all types of microorganisms. Cetylpyridinium chloride (CPC, Figure 1) is a quaternary ammonium compound that a literature search shows to be biodegradable and which offers effectiveness against many organisms. In the US, it may be used as a preservative and the FDA lists it as an antimicrobial agent. Outside the US, it may be used as an antibacterial agent. CPC has also been used widely in in over-the-counter products including mouthwash, throat lozenges, generally at 0.1-0.2%, nasal sprays and antiseptic (first aid) creams and lotions. Vertellus offers CPC in two forms : powder and liquid. The trade name for the liquid form is ‘Freshstatâ„¢ Cetylpyridinium Chloride’ and it is a 40% CPC in propylene glycol solution. This form provides formulation ease and production flexibility. Our CPC is made in the USA, comes in US and European Pharmacopeia forms, and also in technical grades. Based on common knowledge of commonly used preservatives, Table 1 compares a 40% CPC solution in propylene glycol to a variety of commonly used preservatives, i.e. methylparaben, ethyl paraben, propylparaben, butylparaben, phenoxyethanol, imidazolidinyl urea and chlorphenesin. This shows that CPC is effective over a broad pH range and exhibits broad anti-microbial efficacy against grampositive and gram-negative bacteria, broad spectrum activity, where the others have activity against fewer of these microorganisms. Note de contenu : - Anti-microbial activity - Formulation guidelines - Deodorants - Fig. 1 : Structure of CPC - Fig. 2 : Bacteria reduction in deodorant formulations - Table 1 : CPC microorganism activity - Table 2 : Log reduction of bacteria using CPC - Table 3 : Deodorant 'gel stick' formula - Table 4 : Deodorant 'Waffle top gel' formula En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wogOVkoasJ__dHbFgBMfFU-Sm7xAnP_e/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37232 [article]

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What lies within : unfolding wet wipe preservation / Naama Eylon in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022) . - p. 42-44 Titre : What lies within : unfolding wet wipe preservation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Naama Eylon, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 42-44 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens Biofilms Conservateurs (chimie) Fibres textiles synthétiques Lingettes -- Emploi en cosmétologie Nontissés Polyéthylène téréphtalate Viscose Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The preservation of wet wipes in general andpersonal care and baby wipes specifically have been on the mind of every wet wipes manufacturer. Wipes are an integral part of the baby care hygiene regime, and safety is always the top priority when it comes to baby care products. Ingredients and components used in baby care should be addressed by means safety evaluation, clinical testing and of course - real life use. Avoiding microbial contamination and an adequate preservation are a key to the product safety. The industry is aware of the difficulty to preserve wipes, and for many manufacturers, preservation of wet wipes has been a paint piont. In this article we will describe newly identified reasons for the preservation challenge of wipes, offering a different view on ways to reduce risk and achieve antimicrobial protection through rational design of a preservative system. Firstly, we should review the common perceptions associated today with the wipes preservation : product properties and packaging. Note de contenu : - Non-woven effect on bacteria growth - Structure & composition of wet wipes - Biofilm formation - The ultimate solution - Fig. 1 : Challenge test on standard wet wipe formula - Fig. 2 : Challenge test on standard wet wipe formula, with fabric - Fig. 3 : Calculation of HLB on non-woven fibres & preservatives - Fig. 4 : Comparing biofilm formation of p. aeruginosa on PET fibres - Fig. 5 : Comparing biofilm formation ofP. aeruginosa on viscose fibres - Fig. 6 : Challenge test results for wipe preservation system - Fig. 7 : Impact of anti-biofilm formation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12MZp-sbP8gtqbNjHeeJA4mwhGGblkoQa/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37233 [article]

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Global Personal Care Vol. 23, N° 2 URL