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Astaxanthin - the diamond of antioxidants in the fight against light-induced oxidative stress / Katharina Dokulil in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021) . - p. 2-6 Titre : Astaxanthin - the diamond of antioxidants in the fight against light-induced oxidative stress Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Katharina Dokulil, Auteur ; Alexander Pototschnik, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 2-6 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Antioxydants Astaxanthine Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Peau -- Effets de la lumière Peau -- Soins et hygiène Stress oxydatif Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The skin, as the largest organ of the body, plays an important role for our health. As a protective shield, it is constantly exposed to external environmental influences and stress. In order to maintain and support this protective barrier, numerous active ingredients are used in cosmetics. A major group of these are antioxidants, which can neutralize stress factors in the skin. Astaxanthin, which is the strongest natural antioxidant belonging to the carotenoid family, does this particularly well due to its special molecular structure. Due to its unique structure of hydrophilic and lipophilic components, it can act more effectively in the lipid bilayers of the skin than most other antioxidants. Especially in the field of light-induced oxidative stress, triggered by UV radiation and infrared as well as blue light, in vitro and in vivo studies with the active ingredient AstaCos® OL50 from BDI-BioLife Science have shown that astaxanthin has a strong protective effect. Numerous research studies conclude that astaxanthin can also improve overall skin health, and provide comprehensive protection against oxidative stress. Possible uses range from anti-aging products to formulations that combat the effects of UV exposure and light, to an active ingredient in sunscreen products and face creams. Note de contenu : - The molecular structure of astaxanthin - Light-induced oxidative stress and the role of ROS (reactive oxygen species) - Light-induced oxidative stress & factors that can trigger it - Fig. 1 : AstaCos OL50 - Fig. 2 : Color spectrum of AstaCos OL50 in an O/W emulsion - Fig. 3 : Exemplary representation of UV-B irradiated 3D full skinmodels with H&E staining after 24h - Fig. 4 : UV-VIs spectrum of AstaCos OL50 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tCpNUqhFuLDSU6z56Hzq2XVJq6nRn563/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36326 [article]

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Harnessing the power of fucus vesiculosus to quickly revitalize the eye contour and make it shine / Corinne Reymermier in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021) . - p. 8-12 Titre : Harnessing the power of fucus vesiculosus to quickly revitalize the eye contour and make it shine Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Corinne Reymermier, Auteur ; Nicolas Pelletier, Auteur ; Louis Danoux, Auteur ; Wendy Chan, Auteur ; Carole Boury, Auteur ; Valérie André, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 8-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Antiâge:Antirides Biomolécules actives Cernes Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Fucoïdanes famille de polymères hétéropolydispersés à base de fucose et d'autres oses ou acides uroniques. Un fucoïdane, ou une fucoïdine, est un fucane complexe qui appartient à la famille des polymères hétéropolydispersés à base de fucose et d'autres oses ou acides uroniques. Les polymères hétéropolydispersés sont des macromolécules dont les fractions peuvent toujours être séparées en sous-fractions et ainsi de suite jusqu'à aboutir théoriquement à la séparation des molécules. Malgré cette diversité en taille, de composition et de structure de chacune des molécules, les fractions obtenues avec une méthode donnée ont pourtant des propriétés physico-chimiques toujours parfaitement reproductibles. Les fucoïdanes tirent leur nom des algues du type fucus, et ils sont souvent assimilés comme des polysaccharides présents dans le wakamé ou d'autres algues brunes de mer. Des formes variantes de fucoïdane ont également été trouvées chez des espèces animales, notamment chez les concombres de mer. Le fucoïdane est (parfois...) employé en complément alimentaire pour améliorer les échanges cellulaires et leur vitesse d'activité, avec une amélioration du système immunitaire. (Aquaportail) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The eye area is the first part of the body to reveal visible evidence of fatigue, stress, unhealthy lifestyle, and aging. Dark circles, crow’s feet and dull skin are widely perceived to be telltale signs. As a result, many consumers are seeking safe and easy-to-use products that can protect their eye contours and limit these facial skin problems. Innovators at BASF have developed a new bioactive ingredient rich in fucoidan that is clinically proven to fight dark circles, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and enhance skin luminosity around the eyes within the first week of application. Its name is Seanactivâ„¢. Note de contenu : - A new algae active ingredient rich in fucoidan - Stimulating heme oxygenase synthesis to help reveal eye freshness - Stimulating collagen I synthesis to help revive eye contour youthfulness - Stimulating SIRT-1 synthesis for cell vitality to help offer a wave of radiance - Improving the appearance of dark circles and crow's feet - Improving skin luminosity En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14dB_sqlc3GU8vQcEZynwxu8lBZXYnbDy/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36327 [article]

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Edelweiss helps to protect against glycation-related skin ageing / François Paul in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021) . - p. 14-19 Titre : Edelweiss helps to protect against glycation-related skin ageing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : François Paul, Auteur ; Dominik Imfeld, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 14-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Biomolécules actives Dermo-cosmétologie Détoxication métabolique d'une substance Edelweiss et constituants Glycation Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Glycation-induced, Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs) make a significant contribution to signs of skin ageing. In the pro-ageing skin care market, cosmetic antioxidants are often exploited for their ability to protect against free radicals and oxidative stress, but some of these ingredients also have potential to reduce or prevent the effects of glycation. DSM has conducted two new studies to explore the anti-glycation potential in a bioactive with proven antioxidant properties, ALPAFLOR® EDELWEISS CB [INCI Leontopodium alpinum extract] an extract of organically grown and ethically sourced Edelweiss plants. The first study demonstrated the ingredient’s ability to down-regulate accumulation of AGEs by up to 55% in skin cells in vitro and to activate the detoxifying enzyme named Gloxalase-1 (Glo-1), which plays a key role in protecting keratinocyte proteins against oxidative damage during skin ageing, by 65%. The second study demonstrated that the bioactive inhibited Collagen Type IV glycation by 67%. Note de contenu : - Antioxidants in pro-ageing skincare - a burgeoning market - Glycation, AGEs, and their impact on skin - Could antioxidants counteract the effects of AGEs ? - Study 1 : in vitro assessment of Leontopodium alpinum extract's anti-glycation potential in human keratinocytes (NHEK) - In vitro cell cultures - Anti-glycation potential - 1) Intracellular accumulation of CMLs - 2) Filaggrin expression - 3) Glyoxalase 1 activity - Study 2 : Assessment of the modulating effect of Leontopodium alpinum extract on Collagen Type IV Glycation - Conclusions : Study 1 - Study 2 - Overall conclusion - About the active En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12wIJFWuR47Tzcl-BlI66HB-t0Kfx-F3p/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36328 [article]

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A natural anti-acne care for adults / Mélanie Coirier in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021) . - p. 20-25 Titre : A natural anti-acne care for adults Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mélanie Coirier, Auteur ; Mélanie Mangier, Auteur ; Emilie Lasjaunias, Auteur ; Elodie Aymard, Auteur ; Brigitte Closs, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 20-25 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique... Biomolécules actives Dermo-cosmétologie Evaluation Grenade (fruit) et constituants Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Acne is a chronic multifactor pathology characterized by the appearance of non-inflammatory and inflammatory lesions. It is one of the most frequent reasons for appointments with dermatologists (20% of consultations). Acne of teenagers normally disappears around the age of 20 but the symptoms can continue into adulthood. To tackle this pathology, SILAB developed ACNESIUM®, a purified natural active ingredient obtained from the pericarps of pomegranate (Punica granatum), able to prevent the clinical signs of slight to moderate acne in adults. Its clinical efficacy in a cohort of Caucasian adult patients with acneic skin has been demonstrated under control by dermatologists, revealing that ACNESIUM® is therapeutically effective in the daily care of slight to moderate acne in Caucasian adults. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Objective - Panel of patients and inclusion criteria - Treatment conditions - Criteria of efficacy - RESULTS : Evaluation by dermatologists - Evaluation by subjects - Table 1 : Stages included in the GEA (Global Evaluation Acne) scale En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10VuIz7NxKFd88kmMHfdsCJ0yui6uakB2/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36329 [article]

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Antibacterial, anti-keratinized and anti-inflammatory effects of the GMP, a multi-herb extraction on acne vulgaris / Yi-Na Lu in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021) . - p. 26-31 Titre : Antibacterial, anti-keratinized and anti-inflammatory effects of the GMP, a multi-herb extraction on acne vulgaris Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yi-Na Lu, Auteur ; Guang-Yin Wang, Auteur ; Jun Tian, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 26-31 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique... Anti-inflammatoires Antibactériens Dermo-cosmétologie Kératinisation La kératinisation est la transformation des couches superficielles de la peau (épiderme), ou d'une muqueuse (couche de cellules recouvrant l'intérieur des organes creux en contact avec l'air) qui s'enrichissent progressivement de kératine. Peau -- Soins et hygiène Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Recently reports showed that the pathobiology of acne vulgaris was arising from the exploration of sebaceous gland biology, hormonal factors, hyper-keratinization, and the role of bacteria, sebum, nutrition, cytokines and toll-like receptors (TLRs). Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) has a strong proinflammatory activity and targets molecules involved in the innate cutaneous immunity on keratinocytes by acting on TLR-2, leads to the development of comedones. GMP, a multi-herb extraction, targeted most of the major pathogenic features of acne with desired physicochemical traits. It strongly suppressed P. acnes growth, and reduced inflammation by suppressing the TLR-2/NF-κB pathway in SZ-95 sebocytes and HaCaT keratinocytes. GMP exhibited a marginal effect on cell viability and may have modulated hyper-keratinization of the epidermis. These results demonstrate the clinical feasibility of applying GMP for the treatment of acne. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Microbial experiments - Cell culture and stimulation - Cell viability test - mRNA expression measurement in HaCaT cells - mRNA expression measurement in SZ-95 cells - ELISA experiments - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : GMP inhibits the growth of P. acnes - GMP promoted the viability of HaCaT cells when stimulated with P. acnes - GMP decreases inflammation induced by P. acnes through the TLR-2 and NF-KB - GMP inhibited the mRNA expression levels related to hyper keratinization En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HpLBN6Kcp8YYIvzmLJqBdPHs2cmjfvor/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36330 [article]

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The senior hair care market : active ingredients for healthy scalp & hair / Anna Momméja in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021) . - p. 32-34 Titre : The senior hair care market : active ingredients for healthy scalp & hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anna Momméja, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 32-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Betteraves de mer et constituants Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Personnes âgées Produits capillaires Provitamine B5 Salicorne et constituants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : 24% of the world population is older than 50 years old. In Europe and in the United States of America, these values respectively reach 40% and 36% of the population. How does ageing influence their beauty routine needs ? And what does it mean for hair care ? 24% of the world population is older than 50 years old. In Europe and in the United States of America, these values respectively reach 40% and 36% of the population. Seniors born between 1946 and 1964, the last year in which annual births exceeded 4 millions, are called baby-boomers and belong to the "Silver generation". They grew up in a consumerism and marketing boom, evolving in a positive economic context. How does ageing influence their beauty routine needs ? Note de contenu : - A sea beet extract for smooth hair and volume - A golden samphire extract for hair protection & lipid replenishment - A mixture of pro-vitamin B5 and seaweed extracts for higher hair density - Fig. 1 : The hair lipidic barrier - Fig. 2 : In-vivo protocol of the 3-in-1 tonic (pro-vitamin B5 + seaweed extracts) - Fig. 3 : Scalp at D3 on the left, scalp at D63 on the right En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/141Xy1HtSLjq1CzcG6A-H_Y-UuuV7LkMK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36331 [article]

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Microbiological quality management for the control of quailty costs (Part 1) / Joelle Nussbaum in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021) . - p. 36-40 Titre : Microbiological quality management for the control of quailty costs (Part 1) Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joelle Nussbaum, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 36-40 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Aspect sanitaire Coût -- Contrôle Microbiologie Qualité totale Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The definition and implementation of measures to ensure microbiological product stability, the success controls for the established measures, the detection of internal and external failures as well as their corrections cause costs, the so-called quality costs. Cosmetic companies are interested in minimizing these costs during the production of cosmetics. The aim of this document is to present a concept for a possible cost-saving potential for microbiological expenses in the development and production of cosmetics without compromising the product safety. Every cost-saving consideration is first preceded by an analysis of the failure potentials that could lead to a negative impact on the end product. In every process – whether in product planning, product development or manufacturing of cosmetics – a multitude of such potential failure opportunities can be identified, which are evaluated according to the probability that they will lead to a significant reduction in the quality of the end product. Corresponding protective measures have to be defined and implemented. The next step is to consider the potential for saving testing costs and to implement cost-optimized measures. It is obvious that such optimization measures should be defined at the earliest when it can be demonstrated over a longer period of time that the entire process regarding quality planning, development and manufacturing leads to consistently good results with regard to microbiological purity and stability of the finished product. Optimization measures should be defined with a sense of proportion and evaluated for suitability by considering the entire process. Note de contenu : - Quality costs - General considerations : Definition of failure costs according to DIN 55350 and their application to microbiological quality assurance - Systématic avoidance of failure costs - Figure : Prevention costs according to different stages (schematic diagram) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W7qTazK8p8oLHjQFUFOB68v064FrXOTk/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36332 [article]

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Unsupervised machine learning methods to understand relaxation effect of fragrances through EEG technique / Chinmay Mhaskar in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021) . - p. 42-51 Titre : Unsupervised machine learning methods to understand relaxation effect of fragrances through EEG technique Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Chinmay Mhaskar, Auteur ; Vaibhav Kaushik, Auteur ; Archana Arjula, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 42-51 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Aromathérapie Huiles essentielles Parfums Relaxation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Objective: The objective was :1) To validate relaxation effects of fragrances proposed in the previous work using Unsupervised Machine Learning methods (USL). 2) To compare and quantify the relaxation potential of fragrances by establishing a criterion (metric). Methods : K-Means and Principal Component Analysis (PCA) were the employed USL methods. The data was a result of administering 4 essential oil fragrances (ALO (control), ECO, Lavender and AROMA) to 50 participants. PCA aided the characterisation of fragrances as function of 8 waves based on the relaxation induced. Results : The result from the previous work i.e. aromatherapy induced higher relaxation and, Alpha waves were good indicators of relaxation, was validated by K-Means. Higher Alpha wave intensity was associated with fragrance administration. Principal waves for olfactory stimulation were identified as Alpha, Beta and Theta. PCA analysis showed AROMA and Lavender fragrances had higher relaxation potential compared to the other fragrances. Weighted PCA showed the difference in the degree of relaxation for the administered fragrances. Conclusion : We concluded that Aromatherapy fragrance (a synergistic blend of relaxing essential oils) resulted in higher relaxed mental states. This was achieved by employing USL techniques as comparison and validation metrics for the previous study. Also, USL techniques were used to propose a methodology to understand and characterise EEG sensory data variability (subject-to-subject variability). The Relaxation Potential Metric successfully compared the degree of relaxation induced by olfactory stimuli. The significance of the proposed methodology is: 1) It can be used as tool to analyse brain wave data from sensory stimulus/stimuli for better comparison and characterisation and 2) It can be employed to engineer products which are more consumer-centric in nature. Note de contenu : - EEG and its significance for mental state - Previous study and inspiration for present work - Unsupervised learning methods : Clustering algorithms - K-means - Principal component analysis (PCA) - MATERIALS AND METHODS : 1) Data pre-processing - 2) Validation of clustering method (single wave - Alpha) - Table 1 : Table showing mental states characterized by brain wave signals and respective frequency - Table 2 : Table showing the coefficients of variable for each of the PCs (pcincipal components) - Table 3 : Table showing principal component score data for comparison of different experimental stimuli conditions - Table 4 : Table showing principal components' characteristics in terms of brain wave intensity (high and /or low) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZLUqRKZge1iUHts1sHm1c0Fc1L7QyGFR/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36333 [article]

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