Dépouillements

Is my sun protection fading away / Jürgen Volhardt in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021) . - p. 2-6 Titre : Is my sun protection fading away Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jürgen Volhardt, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 2-6 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Détérioration Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photodétérioration Photostabilité Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sunscreens are widely used to protect against damaging effects of sun exposure. Avoiding the pain of sunburn is a key motivator for applying sunscreen, however, these products offer much broader protection because when applied correctly and balanced with informed and managed exposure, they can also protect against skin cancer and minimize skin ageing effects. A product category that has such widespread use needs to be very safe in all foreseeable ways. It also needs to be compatible with the environment, in particular marine flora and fauna as it will often be used in coastal areas such as the beach. Due to the general popularity of sunscreens, concerns of any kind tend to spread rapidly, even if an adversity claim has only been formulated as a potential hazard without proper investigation or evaluation of the likelihood and impact of the risk. Even for scientists, risk evaluations are labor-intensive processes that require a solid scientific education, so unsurprisingly, consumers who cannot make such evaluations on their own, often adopt an avoidance strategy towards potential hazards. In the case of sunscreens though, this increases the risk further, and not just in terms of sunburn, because the skin cancer incidence rate also increases. In view of this, it is of utmost importance to stick to the facts, to perform a risk analysis on hazard claims, and to provide clear information to consumers before they consider avoidance actions which may entail not so obvious downsides. Another concern that has materialized around sunscreen centers on the fact that some UV filters – or combinations of UV filters – are not photostable and degrade, leading to a loss of performance. It sounds like a contradiction in terms that sun radiation itself could reduce the efficacy of a product designed to protect against such radiation. We have therefore revisited this topic and investigated state of the art formulas to assess how much performance is lost after a full day at the beach or on a sunny winter’s day skiing outdoors. We have also looked at the impact of photostability and claim making. What strategy should be followed – especially when creating high protection formulas? Finally, we have considered what photo-stability could mean in terms of the environment. Note de contenu : - WHAT IS PHOTO-INSTABIILTY ? : Photo-destruction - Photo-isomerization - Photo-reactions - Oxidative processes - THE IMPACT OF PHOTOSTABILITY ON CONSUMERS USING SUNSCREENS - PHOTOSTABILITY AND ITS IMPACT ON ACHIEVING A VERY HIGH SPF CLAIM - PHOTOSTABILITY IN THE ENVIRONMENT - Fig. 1 : Stability of Avobenzone in a commercial sunscreen lotion SPF 50+ En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/16sDPsrxwFEd3JvAD3d10nlBhiQkIKmWr/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36182 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
22840	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Performance, safety and sustainability - All in tris-biphenyl triazine / Myriam Sohn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021) . - p. 8-15 Titre : Performance, safety and sustainability - All in tris-biphenyl triazine Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Myriam Sohn, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur ; Marcel Schnyder, Auteur ; Stephanie Acker, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 8-15 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dioxyde de titane Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Lumière bleue Peau -- Soins et hygiène Phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique, Acide Produits antisolaires Protection cutanée Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eau Tris-biphényl triazine Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Disrupting changes in the suncare field that signal the avoidance of Octocrylene (OCR) and Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (EHMC) in newer sunscreen developments express a real challenge in terms of performance achievement. Ethylhexyl Triazone (EHT) and Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT) are often used as replacements but the achievement of higher Sun Protection Factors (SPF) requires additional UVB filters. This paper aims to evaluate the benefits of using Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (TBPT) as additional UV filter in comparison to Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (PBSA) and Titanium Dioxide (TiO2) seeing that TBPT is organic like PBSA and particulate like TiO2. We measured the UV absorbance and photostability as product specific performance criteria, and evaluated the risk of the production of free radicals under UV exposure since this is closely linked to photostability and can impact the irritation potential of sunscreens. Their effect in market relevant UV filter combinations was further assessed in view of their contribution to SPF, UVA-PF, blue light protection, and water resistance. We evaluated the ocular acceptability of a sunscreen containing TBPT and proposed solutions for environmentally friendly sunscreens. In this contribution, we show the broadness of the benefits gained in using TBPT in the future production of sunscreens. As a whole, this work reveals the huge potential of TBPT in modern sunscreens. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : UV filters - UV absorbance - Photostability - Table 1 : Properties of TBPT, PBSA and TiO2 - Table 2 : Composition of the products in the water resistance test - Table 3 : Composition of the product assessed for oclar acceptability - Table 4 : Free radicals (%) generated in the formulation after UV irradiation, n=2 - Table 5 : SPF in vivo and UVA-PF/SPF criterium - Table 6 : Water resistance and blue light protection of PBSA versus TBPT containing sunscreens with SPF 30 - Table 7 : UF filter combinations (in % in finished formulation) fulfilling EcoSun Pass of at least 200 for SPF 20 to 50+ with UVA-PF/SPF > 1/3 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dH6ysH0nx8TS6Ahz4zkkZj1jzvW6zcMt/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36183 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
22840	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Blue-light reimaged - delighting ingredients for skin protection / Ute Wollenweber in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021) . - p. 16-23 Titre : Blue-light reimaged - delighting ingredients for skin protection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ute Wollenweber, Auteur ; Cynthia G. Suàrez Rizzo, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 16-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Antioxydants Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Lumière artificielle -- Effets physiologiques Lumière bleue Peau -- Soins et hygiène Plantes -- Emploi en cosmétologie Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Consumer behaviour is shifting during the COVID-19 pandemic, we are on screens even more than we usually are because we are working from home and doing business via video conferencing. This situation raises awareness of blue light exposure and digital detox emerges as a growing need. Personal Care considers the influence of artificial visible light emitted by the screens, which is a good opportunity to position products that promote blue light protection. In this article, we summarise several ways to combat blue light and to reduce premature skin aging. Approaches related to UV filters, restoring cells' energy metabolism and antioxidants are considered. Besides skin protection with conventional approaches like topical applications, we include the positive impact of using nutricosmetics giving holistic solutions to the consumers. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Screen-based lifestyles are bringing new needs - EXPOSURE OF THE SKIN TO HIGH ENERGY LIGHT AND ITS CONSEQUENCES - APPROACHES TO COMBAT BLUE LIGHT FOR TOPICAL APPLICATIONS : Blue light filter - Restore cells' energy metabolism - Antioxidants - APPROACHES TO COMBAT BLUE LIGHT : A complementary nutrition - Tea and flowers as sources of blue light fighters - Fruits - Leaves - Roots - Fig. 1 : Blue light penetration modified from Reisch MS - Fig. 2 : High-energy visible lights effects - Fig. 3 : The effect of visible light on skin cells - Fig. 4 : Examples of botanicals for skin care En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vhukhNUzpdQFEtQyMb5tdvNDVfe94ltu/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36184 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
22840	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Microbiological requirements for cosmetic raw materials / Ulrich Eigener in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021) . - p. 24-28 Titre : Microbiological requirements for cosmetic raw materials Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ulrich Eigener, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 24-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Assurance qualité Cosmétiques -- Aspect sanitaire Ingrédients cosmétiques Matières premières Tests microbiologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The microbiological quality of raw materials has an important impact on the microbiological quality and safety of cosmetic products. The raw materials producer has to guarantee a consistent quality and to ensure adequate hygiene and preservation measures during manufacture, storage and transport of the materials. For each raw material microbial limit values have to be defined. The cosmetics producer has to avoid additional microbial contamination of the raw materials as well as microbial growth in the production site and in the finished product. This needs hygiene measures, a suitable processing of raw materials and an adequate preservation of the product. Microbiological controls have to be established to safeguard the entire raw material process. Valid microbial examinations, risk-assessment and expert-decisions need adequate personal qualification. To fulfil all the microbiological tasks a quality management-system (MQM) should be employed. Note de contenu : - MICROBIAL COUNTS IN COSMETIC RAW MATERIALS - RESPONSIBILITIES OF THE RAW MATERIALS PRODUCER : Production/quality of raw material - Storage, transport and delivery - RESPONSIBILITIES OF THE COSMETICS PRODUCER : Contractual arrangements - Income control and approval - Storage and handling of raw materials - Production process - SAFEGUARDING THE PROCESSES : Microbiological examinations/controls - Quality management-system (MQM) - Fig. 1 : Microbiologically relevant aspects of cosmetic raw materials En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12ydA11QhnMijJfzaMFrkK21pviiloufu/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36185 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
22840	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

How can the right choice of packaging materials prevent a loss of quality in sun are products / Arielle Springer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021) . - p. 30-34 Titre : How can the right choice of packaging materials prevent a loss of quality in sun are products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Arielle Springer, Auteur ; Matthias Reinelt, Auteur ; Marius Jesdinszki, Auteur ; Joachim Wunderlich, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 30-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conditionnement Cosmétiques -- Conservation Cosmétiques -- Emballages Durée de vie (Ingénierie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sun Care products contain active ingredients protect the skin before, during and after sun exposure. However, these active ingredients can lose their effect due to the influence of light and temperature during storage. To prevent this, packaging can be specifically adapted to the requirements of these products in terms of light protection. In addition, the packaging also protects the products from oxidative influences. An adapted oxygen and water vapor barrier can guarantee high product quality over the storage period. Currently, there is a great demand for sustainable packaging. However, these often lead to compromises in terms of barrier properties and product quality. Current research is determining how the product’s requirement for packaging can be reconciled with sustainability. With the help of so-called digital modeling tools, product quality can be predicted over the storage period, thus facilitating sustainable packaging selection. Note de contenu : - How sunlight, skin damage and sun care products are connected - Special requirements of sun care products for packaging - Oxygen and water vapor permeability of cosmetic packaging - Product shelf life when using sustainable packaging En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/13T6JW0PS5BNNkqyvpJjyIUfW9loGnD3C/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36186 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
22840	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

The history of sun protection : New findings and old myths / Klaus Stanzl in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021) . - p. 36-43 Titre : The history of sun protection : New findings and old myths Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Klaus Stanzl, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 36-43 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Histoire Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The history of sun protection is a recurring theme and publications are being written about it. The most recent publication on this topic is by two English physicians and is entitled: The History of Sunscreen : An updated view [1]. So this is about the history of sunscreen. Unfortunately, many of the authors fall for old myths again and again and simply copy information that was once wrongly put into the world. This article is an excerpt from my dissertation on the history of sunscreen, which I am working on under PD Dr. rer. nat. Beate Ceranski at the Department of History of Science and Technology at the University of Stuttgart. Note de contenu : - The first transparent sun protection products - Sun protection products inthe 1920s and 1930s - Fig. 1 : Dependence of lighterythema of the wavelength of emitted radiation - Fig. 2 : Salicylic acid benzyl ester total formula : C14H12O3 and Benzyl cinnamic acid ester total formula C16H14O2 - Fig. 3 : Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid (Novantisolsäure) - Fig. 4 : Original Copertone product portfolio with the logo of the head of an Indian chief En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jUD-qo5yGCGkve34omH5GEa-6pnuY1c-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36187 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
22840	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Preservative compositions for moist cleaning wipes / Klaus Henning in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021) . - p. 44-46 Titre : Preservative compositions for moist cleaning wipes Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Klaus Henning, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 44-46 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens Conservateurs (chimie) Lingettes -- Emploi en cosmétologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Moist cleaning wipes may be protected against microbial infestation with a preservative composition comprising a gluconolactone, a benzoic acid or a salt thereof, and a preservative-enhancing product. The preservative-enhancing product causes the gluconolactone and benzoic acid composition to inhibit or kill microorganisms such as Burkholderia cepacia. The preservative enhancer may be, for example, a phenol ether, an organic acid, or a salt of an organic acid. Note de contenu : - Protection against contamintion of pre-saturated cleaning wipes - Preservation against Burkholderia cepacia - Examples - Table 1 : Preservative compositions - Table 2 : Residual microbial determination in the microbial load test of moist cleaning cloths - Table 3 : Residual microbial count in the microbial load test of moist cleaning cloths En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IxU8Eixy70oxgm-L7b4kB4VW3iEP5B6a/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36188 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
22840	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible