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How to overcome the new challenges in sun-care / Myriam Sohn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020) . - p. 2-12 Titre : How to overcome the new challenges in sun-care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Myriam Sohn, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur ; Marcel Schnyder, Auteur ; Stephanie Acker, Auteur ; Mechtild Petersen-Thiery, Auteur ; Sascha Pawlowski, Auteur ; Bernd Herzog, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 2-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Ethylhexyl Méthoxycinanamate Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques -- Suppression ou remplacement Octocrylène Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sunscreen producers and UV filter manufacturers are currently facing urgent challenges. On the one hand, the legal situation of two widely used UVB filters Ethylhexyl Methoxycinanamate (EHMC) and Octocrylene (OCR) is unclear due to rising concerns on their safety for humans and the environment; on the other hand, the image of nano particulate UV filters is downgraded in the press and by digital apps questioning their safety profile without scientifically based evidence. Some producers pro-actively remove these UV filters from their new sunscreens' developments which is a real challenge in terms of performance achievement. This paper aims to provide UV filter system alternatives for developing efficient sunscreens without EHMC and OCR. Additionally, it clarifies the safety situation of nano-particulate UV filters and explains their usefulness in sunscreens, providing, however, UV filter system alternatives. Furthermore, this manuscript presents a calculation method to assess the impact of a UV filter combination on the environment and shows that it is possible to develop eco-sustainable sunscreens. Though, each restriction in the choice of UV filters will imply certain compromises. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Formulations for octocrylene and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate free systems - Measurement of free radicals - Blue light transmittance measurements - Assessment of the EcoSun pass value - RESULTS : Sunscreens without octocrylene and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate - Nano particulate UV filters in sunscreens - Environmental impact of sunscreens - Fig. 1 : Photostability profile of a) Photostable UVA and b) Partly stabilized UVA sunscreens ; irradiation performed as described in ISO24443:2012 - Fig. 2 : Specific UV extinction E (1,1) for different particle size of TBPT - Table 1 : Investigated UV filter combinations for sunscreens without EHMC and OCR - Table 2 : Maximum authorized concentration and status of European approved UV filters - Table 3 : INCI, efficacy E (1,1) max and handling of alternative UVB filters in Europe - Table 4 : SPF, UVA-PF, and generated free radicals (%) of DHHB or BMDBM based UV filter combinations - Table 5 : Features of nano and some soluble registered UV filters - Table 6 : UV combinations without nano filters for SPF 30, 50 and 50+ with a ratio UVA-PF/SPF of at least 1/3 - Table 7 : Ecosun Pass value and SPF of five UV filters combinations En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O3nEeRuS9ZgrfESGbXfMJxKbSBGJjGCi/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34614 [article]

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A natural-based 360° approach for optimized sunscreen formulations / Martina Issleib in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020) . - p. 13-19 Titre : A natural-based 360° approach for optimized sunscreen formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martina Issleib, Auteur ; Lars Jung, Auteur ; Martina König, Auteur ; Jürgen Claus, Auteur ; William Jonhcock, Auteur ; Marek Busch, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 13-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsions -- Stabilité Formulation (Génie chimique) Matières premières Produits antisolaires Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eau Ressources renouvelables Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Consumers expect from their sunscreen products not only highly effective protection from UV rays, optimal water resistance, formulation stability and at the same time a light and dry skin feel. The rising environmental awareness also leads to a higher demand for responsibly sourced and sustainable ingredients. The formulator's dilemma is to find sustainably sourced alternatives to ingredients that are under scrutiny such as SPF-boosters, film formers and other typically synthetic or silicone-derived raw materials used in sunscreens – without compromise in the formulation performance, stability and skin feel. Here we describe a multifunctional blend that is unique in its natural and holistic approach to the multiple challenges of formulating modern sunscreen products. It can effectively enhance the efficiency of the used UV-filters, improve the water resistance and formulation stability, and has a beneficial impact on the skin feel of the emulsions. Based on responsibly sourced raw materials, it is the next step towards a higher degree of sustainability and naturalness in sun protection cosmetics. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : 360° approach - SynEffect TM sun - Fig. 2 : In vivo SPF vs. Placebo in different sunscreen formulations - Fig. 3 : Microscope pictures of sunscreen formulations without and with SymEffect TM sun - Fig. 4 : Results of comparative viscosity measurement of sunscreen emulsions with increasing amount of SymEffect TM sun - Fig. 5 : In vivo-measurement of the water resistance - Fig. 6 : Emulsions with and without SymEffect TM sun after 30 min drying at RT - Fig. 7 : SPF 30 sun care lotion with 2% SymEffect TM sun vs. 2% stearyl dimethicone - Table 1 : Sunscreen formulations used for in vivo SPF determination - Table 2 : Sunscreen formulation using increasing amounts of SymEffect TM sun En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A8RJCEX5nkJ_usl2KtVdt-w8McaJBafd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34615 [article]

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Sunscreen diversity - more options for sunscreen ingredients / Tony Schatz in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020) . - p. 20-22 Titre : Sunscreen diversity - more options for sunscreen ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tony Schatz, Auteur ; Jennifer O'Hara, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 20-22 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Composés inorganiques Composés organiques Cosmétiques Facteur de protection solaire Ingrédients cosmétiques Mesure Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Most consumers are not applying enough sunscreen to achieve adequate sun protection against skin cancer. At the same time, an evolving FDA Monograph, regional regulations, and consumer concerns over environmental impacts are shrinking the formulator’s toolbox to provide this protection, particularly in the United States. The recent surge of demand for inorganic mineral sunscreens, for example, is driven by a perception of safety, naturality, and favorable environmental impact. However, mineral formulas also have their aesthetic and safety challenges, and organic sunscreens remain the dominant technology due to their aesthetics, cost, and ease of application. To ensure consumer safety, it is critical that formulators leverage the full range of UV filters (both inorganic and organic), and supporting ingredients, to provide a wide range of choices and textures for safe, high SPF, broad spectrum protection. More diverse sunscreen options will enable consumers to find the right sunscreen for their skin needs and lifestyle, increasing use and reapplication to defend against skin cancer. Note de contenu : - Why are sunscreens important ? - Regulatory status and timeline - Why we are advocating for organic UV filters in the US - Enhancing the efficacy of organic and inorganic sunscreens - How we're helping - Fig. 1 : In-vivo SPF measurement - Fig. 2 : Photostability of Avobenzone (BMBM) after 10 MEDs (minimal erythema doses En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19X439DhJP3_8RXccm0TMmd75WqIqxmQ8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34616 [article]

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How polyurethane film formers can help reduce the impact on the environment whilst keeping sun protection high / Sophie Viala in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020) . - p. 24-27 Titre : How polyurethane film formers can help reduce the impact on the environment whilst keeping sun protection high Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sophie Viala, Auteur ; Astrid Wulfinghoff, Auteur ; Yuliya Berezkin, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 24-27 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biodégradation Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Matériaux filmogènes Peau -- Soins et hygiène Polyuréthanes Produits antisolaires Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eau Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The consumer demand for environmentally friendly personal care products has grown dramatically in recent years. The Sun Care industry, in particular, is under pressure to develop ocean-friendly formulations. Covestro has developed a holistic approach to its sustainability program that addresses the entire value chain from raw materials to the end of life. For sun care formulations, Covestro offers an eco-friendly film former, Polyurethane-34 (Baycusan® C 1000), that is suitable for formulating environmentally safe and sustainable products with high performance. In this paper, results of the biodegradability study and the advantages of Polyurethane-34 in sun care formulations will be discussed. An approach to develop environmentally friendly sun care products based on selected organic UV-filters will be proposed. An effective sun protection formula was developed. This formula exhibits a high SPF value, is water resistant and offers a lightweight feel on skin. Most importantly, these formulations are ocean-friendly and compliant with global regulations. Note de contenu : - Introduction - Raw materials and methods - Film formers in sun care - Biodegradability of polyurethane film formers - Formulating environmental-friendly sun care products - Table 1 : Biodegradability of UV-filters interpreted to our best knowledge, please check by yourself for your own development - Table 2 : Guide formulation "Ocean-friendly sun cream" - Fig. 1 : SPF boosting effect of polyurethane-34 - Fig. 2 : In-vivo SPF and resistance En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kzdKal-FgXdahc1fXiD16XSy5CcZ3qIA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34617 [article]

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Positive impact of emulsifiers on end-user skin benefits / Sophie Cambos in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020) . - p. 28-33 Titre : Positive impact of emulsifiers on end-user skin benefits Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sophie Cambos, Auteur ; Alicia Roso, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 28-33 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Agent mattant Analyse quantitative (chimie) Cornéométrie Couche cornée Emulsifiants Evaluation Hydratation Ingrédients cosmétiques Métaux lourds Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eau Rugosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The aim of this study was to investigate the contribution of two oil-in-water emulsifiers with long C20-22 fatty chains to skin benefits for end-users, from minimalist emulsions compared to the appropriate reference. Complementary evaluations were conducted, using classical measurements such as corneometry for moisturizing effect, dosage of heavy metals in skin stripping to measure potential protection from pollution, advanced spectroscopy, and the latest visualization imaging technology to evaluate effects on the skin surface, such as potential skin roughness or mattifying properties. A second part was dedicated to better understanding the mechanism of action of each emulsifier by exploring what happens to the emulsion after application using scanning microscopy or X-Ray microdiffraction : does the formulation have film-forming properties? What is the interaction of the emulsion with the stratum corneum? The results demonstrated different benefits according to the emulsifier structure and pointed out their interest versus reference emulsifiers. The anionic structure forms a matte film which increases water resistance and protects the skin from atmospheric pollutants. The non-ionic structure strengthens the skin barrier by gently inserting itself within the stratum corneum lipid lamellar structure, resulting in reduced skin roughness and increased moisturisation up to five hours after application. Note de contenu : - METHODOLOGY : O/W emulsion compositions testes - Evaluation methods - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : C20-22 non-ionic emulsifier - C20-22 anionic emulsifier - Table 1 : Tested emulsions with non-ionic emulsifier - Fig. 1 : Corneometry evolution over time - Fig. 2 : Skin roughness index - Fig. 3 : X-ray microdiffraction intensity profiles - Fig. 4 : Interaction of C20-22 non-ionic emulsifier with the stratum corneum - Fig. 5 : Water resistance effect - Fig. 6 : SEM-FEG images of the film formed by emulsion containing anionic emulsifier - Fig. 7 : Film mattifying effect in-vivo - Fig. 8 : Heavy metal dosage in skin strips after exposure to polluted atmosphere En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1enLRlbOFY4gM_1HMCO6Y5ZuLqejWsMBW/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34618 [article]

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60 years sinner circle : the future of washing and cleaning / Thomas Müller-Kirschbaum in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020) . - p. 34-38 Titre : 60 years sinner circle : the future of washing and cleaning Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Müller-Kirschbaum, Auteur ; Arnd Kessler, Auteur ; Arndt Scheidgen, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 34-38 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie Détergents Durée de vie (Ingénierie) Hygiène Machines à laver Mécanique Nettoyage Numérisation Produits nettoyants Taches Température Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : Since 1959, Sinner's Circle has been describing the influence of chemistry, time, temperature and mechanics on the result of a washing or cleaning process in a qualitative way. With the recent opportunities of digitalization and design of experiment, these variables can now be refined and quantified. On top of the appliance and the detergent, the digital knowledge about performance as a function of these multiple variables plays an important role. This will enable consumers to tailor and finetune washing and cleaning performance to individual needs and scenarios. These scenarios enable hygienic cleanliness while using resources in an optimal way and ensuring the best level of sustainability. Tags Note de contenu : - Historical background - Ecosystem of laundry cleaning : New approaches to detergent purchase - New business models - Digital know-how - Digitalization of knowledge through smart algorithm - Sustainability and smart adaptation of washing programs - Fig. 2 : The original display of the Sinner Circle, comparing the ratios of contributors (chemistry, time, temperature, mechanics) to the washing result in a vessel and in an automated washing machine - Fig. 3 : Digitized knowledge as a complement to applicance and chemistry in the future washing process - Fig. 4 : Various data lakes can be connected to provide the optimal consumer experience - Fig. 5 : Performance on an ensemble of 20 stains as a function of the dosage and the load - Fig. 6 : Performance on an egg stain as a function of the dosage and the load - Fig. 7 : Opportunities to optimize the parameters of the Sinner Circle En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uINCPZSlzOUKCM6mse-OvEVMHS3Z3Mp3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34619 [article]

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A natural way to treat tooth sensitivity / Tanja Budde in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020) . - p. 40-41 Titre : A natural way to treat tooth sensitivity Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tanja Budde, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 40-41 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bouche -- Soins et hygiène Dentifrices Dentine Dents -- Soins et hygiène Produits d'hygiène bucco-dentaire Sensibilité dentaire Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Tooth sensitivity is a common condition endured by millions of people around the world – many of whom are unaware that treatment can simply be a matter of choosing the right toothpaste. Perhaps now more than ever before, tooth sensitivity is an important topic. With dental services unavailable or restricted to varying degrees around the world as a result of the coronavirus crisis, increasing numbers of people are looking to take extra care and safeguard their dental health at home. For many people, sensitive teeth are already an issue. Indeed, according to a systematic review of data published in 2013, most dentists consider tooth sensitivity, or dentin hypersensitivity (DH), to be a relevant problem within their practice. The review found that between 25 and 30 percent of adults suffer from the condition, with the peak age for incidence being between 30 and 40. Women are more likely to be affected than men, and the problem is more common in the maxillary (top) teeth as well as on the buccal (outer) surfaces. Note de contenu : - Causes and symptoms - Effective, natural treatment exits - Backed by scientific studies - Easy toformulate - Diary dates : webinar and international forum En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A8RJCEX5nkJ_usl2KtVdt-w8McaJBafd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34620 [article]

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