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Cosmetic peeling formulations : Skin- & Environment-friendly / Jeanette Brüggen in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 12 (12/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 12 (12/2019) . - p. 18-23 Titre : Cosmetic peeling formulations : Skin- & Environment-friendly Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jeanette Brüggen, Auteur ; Judith Ryll, Auteur ; Sandra Sarembe, Auteur ; Vanessa Sternitzke, Auteur ; Andreas Kiesow, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 18-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cellulose -- Biodégradation Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Etudes comparatives Exfoliants Fibres cellulosiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Microbilles -- Suppression ou remplacement Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peeling (cosmétique) Produits nettoyants Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In times of littering our oceans by plastics, the cosmetic industry is one direct contributor to the environmental pollution with so-called microplastic. Since decades, they are used to enhance the skin feel, to stabilise cosmetic formulations or to clean skin or teeth gently. Due to its simple and cost-effective production and availability in all colours of polyethylene, it is frequently used in the cosmetics industry. Environmentally friendly and at the same time efficient alternatives must now be found and developed. The presented study compares the abrasion, cleansing performance and biodegradability of natural cellulose fibres and polyethylene as well as silica. The biodegradability has been verified according to DIN EN 14851 under fresh water conditions. Abrasion and the cleansing performance were investigated visually and colorimetric after brushing tests in a simulator. The results of the analysis show that cellulose is a natural and biodegradable alternative to microplastic particles in cosmetics and personal care products. The investigation indicates that cellulose scrubs offer optimal characteristics required for the cleansing of the skin. They are skin-friendly, non-irritating scrubs with a high cleansing efficacy. Thus, natural cellulose combines all benefits and is available in white or colourful appearance. By using natural cellulose, the problem of microplastics aggregation and consequently the environmental pollution could be decreased. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL DESIGN - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Natural cellulose particles - Reference particles - Peeling prototypes and commercial products - Morphological characterization of the cellulose particles - Validation of the bio-degradability - Abrasion and cleansing efficacy of natural cellulose - RESULTS : Scanning Electron Microscopy of natural cellulose particles - Validation of the bio-degradability - Analysis of abrasion and cleansing efficacy of Natural Cellulose - Table 1 : Composition of the peeling formulation used for the analysis of abrasion and cleaning efficacy - Fig. 1 : SEM image of cellulose particles, polyethylene and silica from beech wood - Fig. 2 : Biodegradability according to DIN EN 14851 of cellulose particles with varying shape from different origin in comparison to silica and PE - Fig. 3 : Abrasion of different cleansing bodies measured by change of colour ΔE - Fig. 4 : Cleaning efficacy [%] of different cleansing bodies - Fig. 5 : Visual comparison of the cleaning results on synthetic skin leather En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OLmwlJVeCEToHrFtvJ28kP4QlL8sVzSM/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33585 [article]

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Breaking new ground in the exploration on skin microbiome / Catherine Zanchetta in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 12 (12/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 12 (12/2019) . - p. 24-26 Titre : Breaking new ground in the exploration on skin microbiome Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Catherine Zanchetta, Auteur ; Mathias Fleury, Auteur ; Denis Whaler, Auteur ; Mélanie Pélican, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 24-26 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Dermo-cosmétologie Microbiome cutané Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Yogurtene® Balance is a mix of spray dried yogurt and inulin, a vegetable fructose polysaccharide derived from chicory which has been widely used for its gut microbiome health benefits, due to its prebiotic activity. Thanks to this unique composition, Yogurtene® Balance is able to protect and rebalance the skin microflora towards one of a typically younger skin, while significantly improving skin hydration. The active, rich in yogurt constituents and prebiotics supporting the skin friendly bacteria, was deeply studied by Givaudan Active Beauty researchers. Its performance was clinically proven in a rinse-off application (bar soap), demonstrating the impact of Yogurtene® Balance on skin microbiota composition. i-MAPS, the first instant microbiome analysis and profiling system, is a scientific breakthrough combining microbiome research and new technology that opens the door for customers to explore the personalisation of beauty products involving the skin microbiome. Using bioinformatics, i-MAPS uses a combination of different techniques in a specific sequence to create individual profiles by mapping the skin microbiome in approximately seven hours compared to seven days for a standard analysis. Every profile provides exclusive information about the bacteria present on the microbiome and correlates it to a skin type such as oily, sensitive, or prematurely ageing. Note de contenu : - YOGURTENE BALANCE, A PERFEC MIX TO REACH SKIN BALANCE : Rejuvenating skin microflora and improving skin hydration in a rinse-off - Results towards a typically younger microbiota composition - Long-term skin hydration benefits - BUT NOW, LET'S MEET THE SKIN MICROBIOME : Un derstanding skin microbiome/skin type relationship - Offering a new breakthrough capability to design skincare products - I-MAPS vs. other technologies - WHAT'S NEXT ? En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TdPx_4vdvToWAAiX2LqbFmIVOaHybXz5/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33685 [article]

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Biotechnological active ingredient, protecting skin microbiota / Federica Carlomagno in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 12 (12/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 12 (12/2019) . - p. 28-34 Titre : Biotechnological active ingredient, protecting skin microbiota Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Federica Carlomagno, Auteur ; Stefania Zanzottera, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 28-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique... Biomolécules actives Biotechnologie Dermo-cosmétologie Evaluation Microbiote Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin is a complex environment where billions of microorganisms live providing a unique environment for each host, collectively referred to as the skin micriobiota. Skin microbiota is, therefore, the result of an equilibrium between protective and pathogens species of those microorganisms. However, this balance can be easily disrupted by stresses. An alteration of skin microbiota may leads to dysbiosis, which has been associated with skin disorders. The present paper aims at demonstrating the efficacy of a specific selected bacterial strain from cutting-edge biofermentation technology able to maintain skin homeostasis and consequent prevention of skin disorders. Note de contenu : - Methodology - Focus on a new active ingredient for skin microbiota protection - Development - Evidence of efficacy - Further investigations - improving skin appearance on adults affedted by active acne : Instrumental evaluation - Clinical evaluation - Fig. 1 : Cell viability evaluation - Fig. 2 : Cell metabolism evaluation - Fig. 3 : Antimicrobial defense on cell culture - Fig. 4 : Skin profilometry (Legend: * Significant (p<0,05); ** Very significant (p<0,01); *** Extremely significant (p<0,001)) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10gSXppq7AIpFKHp6H5-bguhdnjElqPnT/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33686 [article]

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High-acyl gellan gum as a functional polyacrylate substitute in emulsions / Nadine Reichmuth in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 12 (12/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 12 (12/2019) . - p. 36-40 Titre : High-acyl gellan gum as a functional polyacrylate substitute in emulsions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Nadine Reichmuth, Auteur ; Petra Huber, Auteur ; Roman Ott, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 36-40 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Gomme de xanthane La gomme xanthane est un polyoside obtenu à partir de l'action d'une bactérie, la Xanthomonas campestris. Elle est soluble à froid et est utilisée comme additif alimentaire sous le code E415 pour ses propriétés épaississantes et gélifiantes afin de modifier la consistance des aliments. Le xanthane est l'un des exopolysaccharides excrétés par divers microorganismes du sol (bactéries notamment). Il joue un rôle important, à l'échelle moléculaire, dans la formation et la conservation des sols3, tout comme le dextrane, le rhamsane ou les succinoglycanes. Gomme gellane La gomme gellane (E418) est un polyoside extracellulaire d'origine microbienne. C’est un gélifiant utilisé en agro-alimentaire. La gomme gellane est produite par la bactérie Sphingomonas elodea (ex Pseudomonas elodea), qui se développe naturellement sur des plantes aquatiques appelées élodées. (Wikipedia) Polymères -- Suppression ou remplacement Rhéologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Using the findings from previous sensory research projects on predictive models, the current paper analyses whether, and how, the functional properties of acrylates can be imitated in cosmetic emulsions using biopolymers. It could be established that at a suitable concentration, a combination of two natural substances produced using biotechnology – gellan gum and xanthan gum – can replace an acrylic acid polymers and deliver the desired sensory properties and in some cases also the stabilisation. By taking rheological measurements in oscillation mode, a correlation to the sensory attribute of body could be established via the storage modulus G' and the plateau value. The quick break attribute also proved useful in evaluating a polyacrylate imitation. The measurement data of the rheology spectrum helped to establish the biopolymer combinations that were most similar to the polyacrylate. An after-sun cream-gel formulation was used to demonstrate that even a trained panel of sensory experts could not establish any significant sensory difference between the acrylate and gellan gum formulations. Note de contenu : - Test formulation - Determination of physical measurements - Determination of sensory data - Triangle testing - Correlations between physical and sensory data - Table 1 : Basic formula acrylate 0.1-emulsion - Fig. 1 : Viscosity [mPas] and shear rate [1/s] of the emulsions (at 22°C, parallel-plate PP25). Rheometer: Anton Paar MCR 302 - Fig. 2 : Means of the oscillometric measurement (at 22°C, parallel-plate PP25). Rheometer: Anton Paar MCR 302 - Fig. 3 : Sensory evaluation of the attributes using the ZHAW manual “Gels”, shown as means (arbitrary units). En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-a4OtylHBxBlMEs34P2V5a5tGg0C1STb/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33687 [article]

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Vegan silk - How can silk be vegan ? / Nathalie Blosi in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 12 (12/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 12 (12/2019) . - p. 42-44 Titre : Vegan silk - How can silk be vegan ? : Properties and application of functional vegan silk compared to hydrolysed silk from cocoon of silkworms Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Nathalie Blosi, Auteur ; Kristin Schacht, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 42-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biotechnologie Fermentation Ingrédients cosmétiques Soie végétale Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Silk has historically been associated with a high status or opulence. Even today silk plays a big role in the fashion and beauty industry. Silk is due to its conditioning and nourishing effect an excellent choice for skin and hair care products. In general, silk is a protein, which is spun into fibres by e.g. silkworms, spiders, flies, scorpions and mites.The term silk was more exactly defined by Catherine Craig (scientist and expert for silks): “Silks are fibrous proteins containing highly repetitive sequences of amino acids, stored as liquid and transferred into fibers when sheared at secretion.” Silk produced by silkworms and spiders are the most investigated silk types. Silk from the cocoon of silkworms is one of the most frequently used proteins in cosmetic products. A high demand of silk for the beauty industry has become a real challenge for nature. For the production of one kilogram raw silk 6600 silkworms and approx. 200 kg mulberry tree leaves are necessary. Another promising source for silk proteins is spider silk. Spider silk proteins are known for their qualities to add smoothness to the skin and leaving a silky feeling. But the production of spider silk is limited. Due to their cannibalistic and territorial behavior, spiders are very difficult to farm.To deliver a non-animal derived silk, the research was driven to nature inspired by the superior properties of spiders’ silk. For the production of innovative vegan silk proteins, Givaudan Active Beauty has developed the Advanced Silk Technology. Silk proteins are produced in a biotechnological process using fermentation. Note de contenu : - Production process of functional vegan silk compared to animal-derived hydrolysed silk - Proeprties and application in cosmetic formulations - Fig. 1 : Comparison of the production process of vegan silk and animal-derived hydrolysed silk (from silkworm) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pAx8yfNxmG87aRDNyoeRvdhqv2_jILxd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33688 [article]

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Triameen Y12D High performance, broad spectrum biocide for disinfection and preservation / Renate Borgmann-Strahsen in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 12 (12/2019)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 12 (12/2019) . - p. 46-52 Titre : Triameen Y12D High performance, broad spectrum biocide for disinfection and preservation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Renate Borgmann-Strahsen, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 46-52 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens Désinfection Formulation (Génie chimique) Structure moléculaire Index. décimale : 667.1 Nettoyage Résumé : Control of harmful microorganisms is important in many application fields to ensure human and animal welfare and product integrity. The trend to more sustainable products/processes like use of natural based raw materials, reduction of solvents and increasing recycling of industrial water enhance the risk of microbial deterioration. Hence biocides play an important role in safeguarding our current standard of living and realizing a more sustainable future. In Europe the making available on the market and use of biocidal products is regulated by the Biocidal Products Regulation (BPR, Regulation (EU) No 528/2012). It replaces the European Biocidal Product Directive (BPD, Directive 98/8/EC). The purpose of the BPR is to improve the free movement of biocidal products within the Union while ensuring a high level of protection of both human and animal health and the environment. Due to high cost involved in registration many biocidal active substances were not supported and disappeared in the meantime from the market. Others were not approved in the still ongoing BPR review process. Hazard labelling according to Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 on classification, labelling and packaging of substances and mixtures (CLP regulation), e.g. as sensitizer, mutagen or carcinogen lead to further decrease of appropriate actives. Last, but not least, also public opinion plays an important role in acceptance of active substances. All these factors resulted in strong decrease of available active substances for specific application fields and increasing risk falling below an adequate number of different molecules for safe and effective biocide applications. In this article we will explore the particular performance characteristics that make Triameen® Y12D such an interesting and differentiated biocide for use in disinfection and preservation today. Note de contenu : - Disinfection applications - Preservative applications - Efficacy - Efficacy against mycobacteria - Efficacy against viruses - pH influence on the efficacy of Triameen Y12d versus Pseudomonas aeruginosa in the presence of water hardness - Market products - Guideline formulation with Triameen Y12D - This guideline formulation - Fig. 1 : Molecular structure of Triameen® Y12D - Fig. 2 : Efficacy of Triameen® Y12D versus different gram negative and gram positive bacteria according to EN 1276 and versus fungi according to EN 1650 - Fig. 3 : Microscopic picture of the gram negative bacteria Pseudomonas aeruginosa - Fig. 4 : Efficacy of Triameen® Y12D and the quaternary ammonium compounds DDAC and BKC versus the gram negative bacteria Pseudomonas aeruginosa according to EN 1276, clean conditions - Fig. 5 : Influence of pH value on the biocidal efficacy Triameen® Y12D versus Pseudomonas aeruginosa at different levels of water hardness respectively with and without chelant - Table : Physico-chemical properties of the standard formulation with Triameen® Y12D Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33689 [article]

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