Dépouillements

18B-Glycyrrhetinic acid : its core biological properties and dermatological applications / A. Kowalska in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019) . - p. 325-331 Titre : 18B-Glycyrrhetinic acid : its core biological properties and dermatological applications Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : A. Kowalska, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 325-331 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Antimicrobiens Antioxydants Cosmétiques Diffusion (physique) Eczéma constitutionnel Glycyrrhétinique, Acide L’énoxolone ( INN , BAN ; également connu sous le nom d’ acide glycyrrhétinique ou acide glycyrrhétique ) est un dérivé triterpénoïde pentacyclique du type bêta-amyrine obtenu par hydrolyse de l’acide glycyrrhizique obtenu à partir de la réglisse . Il est utilisé dans les arômes et masque le goût amer de médicaments comme l’ aloès et la quinine . Il est efficace dans le traitement de l'ulcère peptique et possède également des propriétés expectorantes (antitussives). Il possède certaines propriétés pharmacologiques supplémentaires avec des activités antivirales, antifongiques, antiprotozoaires et antibactériennes possibles. Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : with high biological activity, especially antioxidative, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, for preventing and controlling various skin conditions, including inflammation-related diseases such as atopic dermatitis and UV-induced skin photoaging. One key active plant ingredient is 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid (GA), the main metabolite of glycyrrhizin (GL), obtained from licorice root. The review examines the valuable biological properties of GA, particularly those playing key roles in the treatment of various dermatological disorders in humans. The review highlights the key anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of GA and its toxicity towards normal cells lines. It also examines the physicochemical properties of GA and presents methods of increasing its penetration through the stratum corneum and bioaccumulation with the use of modern delivery systems such as liposomes and nanoemulsions. Note de contenu : - The physicochemical properties of GA, and strategies to enhance its transdermal delivery - Applications of 18β-glycyrrhétinic acid for skin disorders - Anti-inflammatory and antioxidative activity of GA - Antimicrobial activity of GA - Table 1 : Application of GA in various skin disorders and mechanisms of action acid- activities, applications - Table 2 : Antimicrobial acid- activity DOI : 10.1111/ics.12548 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wj5iCIXlgbeIAjJVUKPiyNVSnbP5ESLT/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33005 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21170	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Can plant-derived phytochemicals provide symptom relief for hair loss ? A critical review / Gabriela Daniels in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019) . - p. 332-345 Titre : Can plant-derived phytochemicals provide symptom relief for hair loss ? A critical review Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gabriela Daniels, Auteur ; S. Akram, Auteur ; Gillian E. Westgate, Auteur ; Slobodanka Tamburic, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 332-345 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alopécie Cheveux -- Croissance Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimie végétale Cosmétiques Follicule pileux Produits capillaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : It is known that hair growth disorders and hair loss can cause personal distress and affect well‐being. Whilst clinical conditions remain a target for medical research, current research on hair follicle biology and hair growth control mechanisms also provides opportunities for a range of non‐medical and cosmetic interventions that have a modulating effect on the scalp and follicle function. Furthermore, an improvement of the hair fibre characteristics (cuticle structure, cortex size and integrity) could add to the overall positive visual effect of the hair array. Since phytochemicals are a popular choice because of their traditional appeal, this review provides a critical evaluation of the available evidence of their activity for hair benefit, excluding data obtained from animal tests, and offers recommendations on improving study validity and the robustness of data collection in pre‐clinical and clinical studies. Note de contenu : - Methods - The hair follicle - Hair growth cycle - Hair loss conditions - Measurement approaches used to determine treatment benefits for hair loss - Phytochemicals for hair loss treatment : Caffeine - Polyphenols DOI : 10.1111/ics.12554 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iGJaX1m9Bg3TFNJjwhtNFpSW1U4D3RRj/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33112 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21170	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Use of inline near-infrared spectroscopy to predict the viscosity of shampoo using multivariate analysis / Kiran Haroon in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019) . - p. 346-356 Titre : Use of inline near-infrared spectroscopy to predict the viscosity of shampoo using multivariate analysis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kiran Haroon, Auteur ; A. Arafeh, Auteur ; P. Martin, Auteur ; T. Rodgers, Auteur ; C. Mendoza, Auteur ; M. Baker, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 346-356 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse de variance En statistique, l'analyse de la variance (terme souvent abrégé par le terme anglais ANOVA : ANalysis Of VAriance) est un ensemble de modèles statistiques utilisés pour vérifier si les moyennes des groupes proviennent d'une même population. Les groupes correspondent aux modalités d'une variable qualitative (p. ex. variable : traitement; modalités : programme d'entrainement sportif, suppléments alimentaires ; placebo) et les moyennes sont calculés à partir d'une variable continue (p. ex. gain musculaire). Ce test s'applique lorsque l'on mesure une ou plusieurs variables explicatives catégorielles (appelées alors facteurs de variabilité, leurs différentes modalités étant parfois appelées "niveaux") qui ont de l'influence sur la loi d'une variable continue à expliquer. On parle d'analyse à un facteur lorsque l'analyse porte sur un modèle décrit par un seul facteur de variabilité, d'analyse à deux facteurs ou d'analyse multifactorielle sinon. (Wikipedia) Hygiène Ingrédients cosmétiques Mesure Spectroscopie infrarouge proche Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : In the personal care industry, viscosity is a critical quality attribute that influences product quality and process economics. Like many industrial liquids, personal care liquids are complex non-Newtonian liquids made up of aqueous surfactant systems whose viscosity depends on the build-up of micellar networks. Measuring the viscosity of complex liquids offline is easily done using benchtop rheometers and viscometers. The challenge lies in measuring the viscosity of personal care liquids online during manufacturing. Being able to track the viscosity of such products through their manufacturing cycle will not only allow for better process control but also more enhanced quality control. Therefore, the aim of this work was to investigate how proxy measurements using inline near-infrared (NIR) spectroscopy in transmission mode can be used to predict the viscosity of shampoo. NIR spectroscopy has not, to the best our knowledge, been used to predict the viscosity of complex surfactant systems like shampoo and could significantly affect the way quality is monitored in a manufacturing environment. - Method : This work focuses on viscosity changes because of differences in chloride content as salt is often used to adjust viscosity. The relationship between salt content and the viscosity of shampoo is well known following the salt curve. From an industrial perspective the region of interest for the formulation studied in this work only covers a small section of this curve. Therefore, two predictive models were developed: one covering the full range of the salt curve and another focusing on the industrially applicable region. - Result : Models were produced using partial least squares (PLS) where both datasets showed some predictive ability with the concentrated region of interest showing enhanced performance [root mean square error of prediction (RMSEP) – 2.32 Pa s] compared with the larger range (RMSEP – 4.44 Pa s). - Conclusion : This work provides a good starting point for developing robust predictive models for in situ viscosity measurements for shampoo manufacturing, where further work into different sources of variation and the extent of the modelling capability with regards to different formulations should be studied. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Samples - NIR data collection - Multivariate analysis - Reference method - RESULTS & DISCUSSION : Model one - full salt curve - 0.24-3.83 % - Model two - industrially relevant range - 0.24-1.35 % DOI : 10.1111/ics.12536 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1v_ezGmOKO4xHmSVAlM0XOBa7Z2GS2Dw0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33113 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21170	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Changes in epidermal morphology associated with dandruff / Jennifer E. Pople in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019) . - p. 357-363 Titre : Changes in epidermal morphology associated with dandruff Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jennifer E. Pople, Auteur ; R. K. Bhogal, Auteur ; A. E. Moore, Auteur ; G. Jenkins, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 357-363 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Cuir chevelu Epiderme Microbiologie Peau -- Physiologie Pellicules (dermatologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Dandruff is a very common scalp condition characterized by flaking and pruritus usually with no visible signs of inflammation, such as redness and erythema. Dandruff is considered a multifactorial condition with both microbial colonization and host factors such as sebum production thought to play a role. There is evidence of changes in epidermal morphology in the scalp skin of dandruff sufferers, with reports of an increase in mean thickness and more nucleated cell layers. The underlying mechanisms driving these morphological changes are currently unclear. The objective of this study was to fully characterize epidermal morphology in dandruff compared to healthy scalp skin and to evaluate potential mechanisms underlying any changes observed. - Methods : Scalp skin biopsies were taken from 22 healthy female subjects and 21 dandruff sufferers, from both lesional and non-lesional sites. Samples were processed, sectioned and stained using haematoxylin and eosin (H&E). To fully characterize epidermal morphology, measurements were taken of epidermal thickness, the convolution of the dermal-epidermal junction and the depth of epidermal rete ridges. To analyse changes in epidermal proliferation immunohistochemical staining was performed using Ki67, a well-established marker of cell proliferation, and quantified using image analysis. - Results : Histochemical analysis of skin sections revealed that in dandruff lesional samples, the epidermis was thicker, had a more convoluted dermal epidermal junction and the rete ridges were elongated, compared to healthy scalp skin. Similar directional changes in epidermal morphology, were observed in non-lesional dandruff samples, albeit to a lesser extent. Image analysis of Ki67 expression in the epidermis revealed dandruff lesional skin contained significantly more Ki67-positive proliferating keratinocytes than healthy controls samples. This suggests dandruff scalp skin epidermal keratinocytes are in a hyper-proliferative state. - Conclusion : There were significant changes in epidermal morphology in dandruff lesional skin compared to healthy scalp skin including increased epidermal thickness, a more convoluted dermal-epidermal junction and elongation of rete ridges. Interestingly, we found there was evidence of an increase in the percentage of epidermal Ki67-positive cells, which has not been reported previously, and demonstrates dandruff is a condition displaying epidermal hyper-proliferation. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Study design - Samples - Haematoxylin and eosin staining - Microscopy - Image analysis of epidermal morphology - Immunohistochemical analysis Ki67 - Image analysis of Ki67 staining - RESULTS : Dandruff skin shows significant changes in eperdimal morphology compared to healthy scalp skin - Dandruff skin shows enhanced expression of the proliferation marker Ki67 DOI : 10.1111/ics.12539 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bvf1-Kik63yjVTr_KvaJ83DDr1QL9Cpw/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33114 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21170	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Microrheological study of ternary surfactant-biosurfactant mixtures / L. Xu in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019) . - p. 364-370 Titre : Microrheological study of ternary surfactant-biosurfactant mixtures Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : L. Xu, Auteur ; Samiul Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 364-370 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biosurfactants Cocamidopropyl bétaine Cosmétiques Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Laureth sulfate de sodium Rhamnolipides Rhéologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The main objective of this paper is to understand the rheological impact of rhamnolipids biosurfactant (mono/dirhamnolipids mixture, CCB) on a common personal care mixed surfactants system: anionic sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and zwitterionic cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB). The ternary biosurfactant/surfactants mixtures were evaluated at three different formulation conditions. The experimental results can provide a formulation guideline when applying rhamnolipids in cosmetics and personal care products. - Methods : Traditional mechanical rheometer was used to measure bulk viscosity and lower frequency rheological behaviour of ternary surfactant mixtures. Diffusing wave spectroscopy (DWS) was utilized to access rheological responses at high frequency regime. Structural parameters such as contour length, entanglement length and persistence length of wormlike micelles in the anionic/zwitterionic/biosurfactant mixtures can be extracted from the rheological data gathered by DWS. - Results : Maxwellian type response was present in SLES/CAPB/CCB system which indicated the formation of wormlike micelle. Contour length of wormlike micelle formed by SLES/CAPB reduced from 445.8 to 88.37 nm with only 2 wt% addition of CCB. In the same system, viscosity decreased and shorter relaxation time were observed. Addition of sodium chloride built the viscosity of SLES/CAPB/CCB to an extent by screening charges between surfactant head groups. Highest viscosity of SLES/CAPB/CCB (10 wt%, 2wt% and 4wt% respectfully) was observed when sodium chloride concentration was at 4 wt%. In the same SLES/CAPB/CCB system, pH impacted the system's rheological response significantly. Due to the zwitterionic nature of CAPB, it became more cationic at lower pH while rhamnolipids became more nonionic. SLES still maintained its anionic nature at low pH and this promoted the interaction between CAPB and SLES. At lower pH, overall loss and storage modulus exhibited higher values while longer relaxation times were observed. Increase in micelles contour length under lower pH conditions were shown by the DWS data. - Conclusion : This preliminary rheological and microstructure study of the complex biosurfactant/surfactants ternary systems revealed the effect of formulation conditions on the mixtures rheological responses. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Effect of ratio - Effect of adding salt - Effect of pH - Technique - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Effect of ratio - Effect of salt addition - Effect of pH DOI : 10.1111/ics.12549 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1422NrlPRaCZOPqsFflTeg0dk01UyNjNu/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33115 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21170	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

The influence of age, gender and race/ethnicity of the composition of the human axillary microbiome / M. Li in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019) . - p. 371-377 Titre : The influence of age, gender and race/ethnicity of the composition of the human axillary microbiome Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Li, Auteur ; A. E. Budding, Auteur ; M. van der Lugt-Degen, Auteur ; L. Du-Thumm, Auteur ; M. Vandeven, Auteur ; Aixing Fan, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 371-377 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Âge Aisselles Femmes Groupe ethnique Hommes Microbiome cutané Transpiration Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The microbial community plays an important role in the generation of human axillary odour by transforming odourless natural secretions into volatile odorous molecules. A limited number of traditional culturing methods and molecular based research have been performed to characterize the human axillary microbiome in small collection sample sizes. Moreover, only a few have considered the interpersonal variations across age, gender or race/ethnicity, and none have included all three variables within one single study. The aim of this study was to characterize the axillary microbiome of healthy subjects across different age groups, genders and races/ethnicities in a large sample size. - Methods : The underarm skin swab samples were collected from 169 healthy subjects. The axillary microbiome was analysed by IS‐pro, a clinically validated high‐throughput DNA fingerprinting technique. - Results : The results indicate that the senior subjects (55+) tend to have a higher number of total bacterial than younger adults (of a defined age). The diversity of odour causing bacteria, e.g. corynebacteria, increases with age. Among the three races/ethnicities studied, East Asians have a unique microbial composition compared to Caucasians and Hispanics, which may contribute to the different odour profiles observed among the races/ethnicities studied. - Conclusion : Human axillary microbiome varies by age, gender and race/ethnicity. This study has provided an unprecedented fundamental knowledge about the axillary microbiota as a function of age, gender and race/ethnicity. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subject recruitment - Sample collection - IS-profiling of axillary microbiota and data analysis - RESULTS : Overall diversity of human axillary microbiome - Age effect on human axillary microbiome - Gender effect on the human axillary microbiome - Race/ethnicity effect on the human axillary microbiome DOI : 10.1111/ics.12549 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HL6JX5m_QbjAPdK9oHUZ0x88HyxQ7USd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33116 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21170	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Evolution of the use of antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics / S. Silva in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019) . - p. 378-386 Titre : Evolution of the use of antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Silva, Auteur ; M. Ferreira, Auteur ; A. S. Oliveira, Auteur ; C. Magalhães, Auteur ; Maria Emilia Sousa, Auteur ; M. Pinto, Auteur ; José M. Sousa Lobo, Auteur ; Isabel F. Almeida, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 378-386 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Antioxydants Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Vitamine C Vitamine E Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Skin health and beauty are a cornerstone of general well-being in humans. Anti-ageing cosmetics are used to provide a healthy and youthful appearance. Among the different cosmetic actives, antioxidants are incorporated in anti-ageing products due to their beneficial effects in preventing and minimizing the signs of skin ageing. This work aims to understand how anti-ageing formulations changed in the past 7 years regarding pure antioxidants composition. - Methods : Data were collected from anti-ageing formulations commercialized in main stores and pharmacies in the Portuguese market. The study started on 2011 and was updated with products launched or whose composition has been renewed on 2013, 2015 or 2018. - Results : Ascorbic acid and tocopherol and their derivatives were consistently the most used antioxidants in anti-ageing formulations; followed by niacinamide and retinyl palmitate. Seven ascorbic acid derivatives are currently used in anti-ageing formulations while only three tocopherol derivatives were identified in this study. Several combinations of antioxidants were routinely found, mainly tocopherol (or tocopherol derivatives) with other antioxidants and tocopherol with tocopherol derivatives. We have not identified emerging antioxidants with great impact in anti-ageing formulations even though niacinamide and retinyl palmitate exhibited over 10% more usage in 2018. - Conclusion : This insight is relevant to the cosmetic industry providing a better understanding of the scientific-based formulation of modern cosmetics and supports the need for innovative antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics. Note de contenu : - Antioxidant trends - Tocopherol and its derivatives - Ascorbic acid and derivatives - Others - Combinations of antioxidants - Limitations DOI : 10.1111/ics.12551 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T7cPMDWZ6GBYQXOz-N4Trln1xb6-h8qZ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33117 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21170	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Heat transfer in human hair / E. Petrovicova in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019) . - p. 387-390 Titre : Heat transfer in human hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : E. Petrovicova, Auteur ; Y. K. Kamath, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 387-390 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chaleur sèche Cheveux -- analyse Modèles mathématiques Thermocinétique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : In the process of daily grooming, human hair often undergoes heat treatments. These treatments create temperature gradients inside individual hair fibres or bundles of hair which can lead to hair damage. - Methods : Mathematical models were built for heat transfer in a single hair as well as thin tresses of hair during blow drying. - Results : Mathematical analysis led to temperature profiles suggestive of fast transfer of heat in a single hair mainly through conduction. However, in a hair assembly, the process involved both conduction and convection leading to a slower rate of heat transfer. Penetration of heat to the centre of the hair assembly took minutes rather than seconds. - Conclusion : This model is useful in understanding hair damage potential in styling hair with high temperature devices such as flat irons and processes which involve deforming hair at relatively high temperatures. Note de contenu : - Background - Heat transfer analysis and temperature profiles during hair drying - Air flow properties and heat transfer coefficient calculations - Results and discussion : Results from mathematical analysis DOI : 10.1111/ics.12553 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ArwGh8FNcicb9duG67YyoyjtsftXnxfH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33118 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21170	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Attenuation of negative effects of senescence in human skin using an extract from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum: development of new skin care solution / S. Gervason in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019) . - p. 391-397 Titre : Attenuation of negative effects of senescence in human skin using an extract from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum: development of new skin care solution Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Gervason, Auteur ; M. Napoli, Auteur ; A. Dreux-Zhiga, Auteur ; C. Lazzarelli, Auteur ; S. Garcier, Auteur ; A. Briand, Auteur ; M. Albouy, Auteur ; A. Thepot, Auteur ; Jean-Yves Berthon, Auteur ; Edith Filaire, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 391-397 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Estime de soi Psychobiologie La psychobiologie étudie le comportement humain dans une perspective biologique. Elle s'intéresse aux processus biologiques dans le corps et en particulier dans le cerveau, et leur rapport avec les comportements et pensées. La biopsychologie a pris une importance majeure durant le XXe siècle avec le développement important de la médecine scientifique, de la génétique, des neurosciences, et des méthodes d'imagerie cérébrale. Sphingomonas Sphingomonas est un genre de protéobactéries de la famille des Sphingomonadaceae. Vieillissement Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Intrinsic skin ageing is mainly caused by cellular senescence. p16 and p21 are two important tumour suppressor proteins that play essential roles during cell proliferation and ageing through regulating the expression of several genes. Moreover, physical changes between the ages of 55 and 60 years affect one's physical and disrupt self-esteem. The cosmetics industry has focused on bioactive substances derived from natural products such as plants, mushrooms and marine algae to counteract the deleterious effect on skin senescence. Besides these products, compounds produced by bacteria may decelerate individual senescence. - Methods : In order to evaluate the potential benefits of bacteria extract over skin ageing, we investigated whether a Sphingomonas hydrophobicum (SH) extract is able to protect our skin against senescence mechanisms. We used an ageing full-thickness skin equivalent model, which was treated or not with the bacteria extract in a systemic way for 42 days. p21 and p16 and senescence-associated galactosidase activity were used to detect cellular senescence with immunohistology. Using a psychobiological approach, we evaluated in vivo the effect of SH extract on self-esteem, isotropy and suppleness. - Results : Sphingomonas extract significantly suppressed senescence associated with β-galactosidase activation. It also significantly inhibited the expression of cell cycle inhibitors (p. 21 and p. 16). At the same time, the bacteria extract has a significant positive impact on the issue by increasing the expression of versican and fibrillin-1. Significant improvements of self-esteem were reported after 56 days of SH extract application. These psychological benefits were accompanied by a significant improvement in skin suppleness and isotropy. - Conclusion : Sphingomonas extract delays intrinsic skin ageing process by inhibiting cellular senescence, and has also the capability to restructure the skin. These beneficial physiological effects induced by SH extract have a positive influence on self-esteem. Because skin ageing causes emotional distress, SH extract can serve as an anti-ageing cosmeceutical agent and help to build a better psychological health, and help individuals to assume ageing. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Bacterial strains and culture conditions - MTT cell viability assay - Reconstructed skin model - Immunohistological analysis - In vivo study - Isotropy - Biomechanical properties of the skin - Psychological parameter - Statistics - RESULTS : Sphingomonas decreases the expression of senescence-related proteins - Sphingomonomas decreases the expression of β-galactosidase in the dermis - Expression of fibrillin-1 and versican - In vivo results DOI : 10.1111/ics.12534 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LNFVIERfOir-tS_SKwP59SulkHM-9vlx/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33119 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21170	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Association between lactic acid sting test scores, self-assessed sensitive skin scores and biophysical properties in Chinese females in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019) . - p. 398-404 Titre : Association between lactic acid sting test scores, self-assessed sensitive skin scores and biophysical properties in Chinese females Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 398-404 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Epiderme Lactique, Acide L'acide lactique est un acide organique qui joue un rôle dans divers processus biochimiques. Un lactate est un sel de cet acide. Contrairement à ce que peut laisser penser son nom, l'acide lactique n'est pas présent uniquement dans le lait, mais également dans le vin, certains fruits et légumes, et dans les muscles. L'acide lactique est un acide alpha hydroxylé, sa formule chimique est C3H6O3 et sa structure se reflète dans son nom systématique, l'acide 2-hydroxypropanoïque. Perméabilité Sensibilité cutanée -- Mesure Test de la piqure (dermatologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Lactic acid sting test (LAST) is a classical method to identify sensitive skin. However, some subjects with self-perceived sensitive skin are negative for LAST. - Objective : To determine whether LAST scores are associated with specific phenotype of sensitive skin. - Methods : A total of 292 subjects with self-perceived sensitive skin were enrolled in this study. The Sensitive Scale was used to evaluate the severity of burning, stinging, itching, tautness, erythema and scaling based on 0–10 scale scores. In addition to the assessment of LAST scores, epidermal biophysical properties were measured using an MPA system. - Results : The Sensitive Scale scores of stinging, itching, tautness and scaling were significantly different between the LAST-positive and -negative groups. However, burning and erythema scores did not differ between the LAST-positive and -negative groups. LAST scores were positively correlated with the Sensitive Scale scores for stinging, itching, tautness and scaling, but not for burning and erythema scores. Moreover, LAST scores negatively correlated with stratum corneum hydration, but positively with transepidermal water loss (TEWL) rates. - Conclusions : Lactic acid sting test scores positively correlated with TEWL rates. LAST scores could be used to identify subjects with sensitive skin characterized mainly by stinging and itching, but not those mainly by burning and erythema. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects - The sensitive scale - Lactic acid sting test - Measurement of skin biophysical properties - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Distribution of LAST scores among subjects - LAST scores are associated with specific symptomes and signs - LAST scores correlate with SCH and TEWL - Age correlates positively with tautness scores DOI : 10.1111/ics.12550 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F-oBbKcv06aKgw_g5mjswIqhTsh2CRyK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33120 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21170	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Topical monomethylsilanetriol can deliver silicon to the viable skin in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019) . - p. 405-409 Titre : Topical monomethylsilanetriol can deliver silicon to the viable skin Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 405-409 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption cutanée Antiâge Dermo-cosmétologie Diffusion (physique) Organosilicones Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pénétration (physique) Perméation Tests de sécurité Vectorisation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Organic silicon has been linked to positive effects on the skin rejuvenation, mainly by the oral route. Thus, the main objective of the present study was to assess whether monomethylsilanetriol (MMST, a source of organic silicon) can deliver silicon to the epidermis and dermis, when applied topically in a cream. Once the hypothesis was confirmed, the present study also evaluated whether the product was toxic to keratinocytes ; additionally, its possible antioxidant activity was assessed. - Methods : The ex vivo skin permeation profile was determined using human skin in Franz-cells equipment; cytotoxicity was assessed using HaCaT keratinocytes. Antioxidant capacity was determined as scavenging activity, measured according to the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazil free radical method. - Results : The permeation percentage was almost 60% of the applied MMST, with a large quantity of drug found in the viable epidermis and dermis. The cell viability assay showed no significant difference in the percentage of viable keratinocytes among the treated groups at the doses used. In terms of antioxidant activity, the IC50 value obtained was 2400 μg mL−1. Low antioxidant activity, negligible toxicity for keratinocytes and a significant percentage of permeation were observed. - Conclusion : We provide evidence that MMST applied topically can deliver silicon to the skin in biorelevant levels for cosmetic purposes. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Si quantification - Ex vivo skin permeation - Cytotoxicity : cell viability assay - Antioxidant activity - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Ex vivo skin permeation - Cytotoxicity : cell viability assay - Antioxidant activity DOI : 10.1111/ics.12552 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1v1d1N3b6Wg-_Hz8c1O2qNav4kDjyw_ek/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33121 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21170	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible