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Is male grooming still a matter of multifunctionality ? / Sabrina Baumgart in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019) . - p. 2-4 Titre : Is male grooming still a matter of multifunctionality ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sabrina Baumgart, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 2-4 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Produits de beauté masculins Soins de beauté masculins Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Popular advertisements show a variety of multiple-in-one products for active and sportive men in the middle of life. Men who work on projects at home and at work. They have needs for multifunctional cosmetic products to save their precious time while standing successfully in the triangle of family working and hobbies. Multifunctionality is the all-over claim which can be found for these products. One product for hair, face and body - fulfilling all the different needs of all body areas. To make it possible for men to focus and face "real" life without wasting time for trivialities. But do all men think in this way? Are men satisfied with multifunctional products or is it just a cliché? Does the multiple-in-one claim really fit? On the other side men's cosmetic product range extends. The categories of men's products are increasing and the range of products for different skin types, hair types and styles are increasing over the last years. Besides the products for different activities like sport and hobbies are rising. This suggests that not only convenience is in focus, but also performance and matching the skin type and preferences. Besides the active and sportive men who find themselves in advertising, there are a lot of men who do not fit in this picture. The student, the artist, the scientist for instance who find their success in other areas than the ones who are at home outdoors. Every man as an individual feels comfortable in another environment and has a different focus in life. Note de contenu : - Men care and sensitive skin - Mild formulation concepts for men - Beards to underline the individuality of men - Quality and environmental aspects of men care En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1l4c8QMIjtF6x7LPrmjbYnppn6yaSs_em/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33143 [article]

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Can active ingredients improve the reach of men care products / Stefan Hettwer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019) . - p. 6-12 Titre : Can active ingredients improve the reach of men care products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Sandra Breitenbach, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 6-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Ingrédients cosmétiques Produits de beauté masculins Soins de beauté masculins Tatouage Tests d'efficacité Vergetures Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Men’s care is a difficult topic. Although the number of new product launches for men is steadily increasing (Mintel GNPD database July 2019), it seems that the use of cosmetic products by men is still mostly restricted to basic needs: rinsing, washing and hygiene products, deodorants, sun care and beard and hair care products. The use of anti-ageing formulations and creams for long-term protection of the skin still appear not to be of particular interest to male consumers. Note de contenu : - Introduction : 1. Targeted applications specifically design to meet men's needs - 2. "Masculine" ingredients - A medium for differentiation - 3. "Masculine" claims - A medium for differentiation - 4. "Masculine" efficacy testing - A way to convince men to use cosmetics - Concepts for targeted applications - (After) tattoo care - Stretch marks - Cosmetics for hard-working men - Combining "masculine" ingredients En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1M-ZqMbFlvEfu8VkG2uLLwkmmQKZINWzS/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33145 [article]

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Achieving a more atractive look in men and women / Julia Comas in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019) . - p. 14-19 Titre : Achieving a more atractive look in men and women Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julia Comas, Auteur ; Olga Laporta, Auteur ; Elena Cañadas, Auteur ; Eulalia Gonzàlez, Auteur ; Raquel Delgado, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 14-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anticernes Biomolécules actives Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peptides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The skin surrounding the eyes is one of the most delicate of the body, which is why it can experience more accentuated aging changes that easily worsen the appearance of such important area. EYESERYL® peptide is a cosmetic active ingredient intended to act on the mechanisms of glycation, vascular permeability and lipid accumulation, in order to minimize the presence of eyebags and dark circles and reduce skin damage in the fragile eye contour. As the clinical studies show, the ingredient is a good candidate to introduce in skin care formulations to improve the overall eye contour region of both men and women. Note de contenu : - The reason behind eyebags and dark circles - Gender and eyebags - A tetrapeptide with a demonstrated efficacy against puffy eyebags - Decreased glycation activity - Inhibition of vascular permeability - Bilirubin degradation - Reduced lipid accumulation - Eye contour improvement : Better skin elasticity - Skin moisturization improvement - Under-eye puffiness reduction - Anti-eyebags and anti-dark circles effect - Reduces eye puffiness in men En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zKFmKfjZtJyioTuDEKyuVVP31UZd5Wr3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33151 [article]

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The window to eye beauty : a new "non-gender" eye care active ingredient / Meritxell Llinas in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019) . - p. 20-24 Titre : The window to eye beauty : a new "non-gender" eye care active ingredient Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Meritxell Llinas, Auteur ; Elaine Ferreira, Auteur ; Silvia Pastor, Auteur ; Julia A. Boras, Auteur ; Patricia Carulla, Auteur ; Marco J. Klein, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 20-24 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Enzymes microbiennes Etudes cliniques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The skin around the eyes, also known as the periocular area, shows expressions and emotions that are an important part of our personality. One of the first facial areas where visible signs of aging begin to emerge is around the eyes. In fact, the eyes are the focal point of the face and the apparition of bags, dark circles and wrinkles, gives to face a tired appearance and/or make one to look and feel a lot older than she/he really is. We present a new cosmetic Mediterranean active ingredient, Meiviewâ„¢, an exclusive bacterial ferment extract derived from an endophyte Bacillus, found in Mallorca (Spain), living in symbiosis with one of the most salt tolerant halophilic plant (Arthrocnemum macrostachyum). Meiviewâ„¢ presents a broad-spectrum of eye care efficacy. In addition, its efficacy was tested in vivo in women and men volunteers. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Gene expression modulation in three types of skin cells - Anticollagenase activity inhibition - Plakoglobin synthesis - Vascular endothelial growth factor (VEFG-A) release - Vascular permeability inhibition and endothelial resistance modulation - Bilirubin degradation - Chelating activity on metal ions (Fe2+) - Melanin synthesis inhibition - Epidermal thickness and collagen/Expression on human skin explants - In vivo efficacy study - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Role of the bacillus ferment on the cell-cell adhesion and extracellular matrix maintenance - Role of the bacillus ferment on the vascular fragility and permeability of blood vessels - Role of the bacillus ferment on the accumulation of coloured blood-products and melanin - Clinical instrumental evaluation in the eye contour area En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BouMOOEyvHIMnqRLQn6a2tfokV9EjD09/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33152 [article]

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Invisible yet indispensable, the skin microbiota needs to be properly supported / Irene Montano in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019) . - p. 26-30 Titre : Invisible yet indispensable, the skin microbiota needs to be properly supported Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Irene Montano, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 26-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Fermentation Flore cutanée Microbiote Miel et constituants Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Billions of microorganisms colonize the human skin at various sites and constitute the skin microbiota. They form complex communities that function together with the host immune system to defend against pathogens and to maintain skin health. Since having a well-balanced cutaneous microflora is important for a healthy and beautiful skin, protecting its balance and its recovery represents a winning strategy for skin care products. The active ingredient Black BeeOmeâ„¢ that results from the fermentation of honey from the rare wild dark bee Apis mellifera mellifera with the bacteria Zymomonas mobilis, has been designed to harmonize the skin microflora after stress to ensure a healthy and pure skin. The fermentation eliminates the basic sugars glucose, fructose and sucrose in the honey. As a result, the carbon source for unwanted bacterial growth on the skin is removed. On the other hand, the ferment of Zymomonas mobilis contains factors that may help to control the growth of microorganisms on the skin. Black BeeOmeâ„¢ has been shown to efficiently exert its prebiotic effect to restore the healthy skin’s natural microbiota following daily stress. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : The cutaneous microbiota - The fermentation of black bee honey - The prebiotic action of black BeeOme - METHODS AND STUDY RESULTS : Recolonization of the skin microflora after washing - Skin barrier enhancing effect and improvement of skin impurities - Improvement of various skin parameters in urban areas En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fo53k---m-AO8wx4gI2UFyaX7bbpFEXj/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33153 [article]

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Gentle care for delicate skin / Anja Stork in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019) . - p. 32-36 Titre : Gentle care for delicate skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anja Stork, Auteur ; Annette Mehling, Auteur ; Petra Schulte, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 32-36 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques pour nourrissons Peau -- Nettoyage Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : When babies set out to explore the world around them, they do not yet have the protection adults count on. Baby skin is thinner and more sensitive, calling for tailored care to defend it from moisture loss, sun and environmental aggressors. Anja Stork, Annette Mehling and Petra Schulte explain how BASF’s baby care concept delivers essential and safe care. Note de contenu : - Characteristics of baby skin - As little as possible, as much as necessary - Extra-mild cleansing - Soften and nourish - Calm and protect - Safety in the sun - Nothing but natural for baby - Fig. 1 : In contrast to adult skin, baby skin is not fully developed at birth. The skin barrier continues to develop throughout the first years of life - Fig. 2 : Adhesive tape stripping of stratum corneum - Fig. 3 : Repairing effect of Phytosoothe at 2% vs. vehicle. Measurement of TEWL by Tewameter and hydration by corneometer - Fig. 4 : Evaluation of resident corynebacterium genus with Phytosoothe after decrease induced by SLS, using 16S metasequencing method - Fig. 5 : A combination of modern broad-spectrum UV filters Tinosorb A2B, Tinosorb M and Tinosorb S provides very high SPF and good UVA efficacy En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cJOBTU8wfn0qGu4oC8P1sUYrgrCdybbG/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33154 [article]

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The influence of third-party certifiers on the european cleaning market / Stuart Holt in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019) . - p. 38-44 Titre : The influence of third-party certifiers on the european cleaning market Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stuart Holt, Auteur ; Josmary Velasquez, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 38-44 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Certification Chimie écologique Développement durable Etiquetage écologique Huile de palme et constituants Produits nettoyants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Consumers today are increasingly aware of the responsibility to themselves and the environment in the selection of the cleaning products that they use in their homes. A move towards low toxicity, sustainably sourced formulations is already happening, supported by third party certifiers such as the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) and EU Ecolabel, who are creating an aspiration and recognition of more sustainable cleaning products with consumers. This trend will continue to accelerate, necessitating as it does, innovation and reformulation that delivers on consumer demand for high performance cleaning, whilst minimizing the impact on the environment. Note de contenu : - Consumer demand leading change - Transparency in labelling and third-party certifications - Partnering for a more sustainable future - Roundtable on substainable palm oil (RSPO) - EU ecolabel - Promoting the adoption of RSPO - Transformation of the cleaning industry - Moving from synthetic to natural feedstocks - No need to sacrifice performance - High performance ingredients are already available today - Transformational next generation formulations - Fig. 1 : Black box cleaning test on a ceramic tile soiled with used cooking grease and aged for 5 hours at 60°C - Fig. 2 : Black box cleaing test of a coated metal tile soiled with diesel train engine soil and aged for 12 hours at room temperature En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1og1rdAqIwedAUQrW-HO3KzBCX3_7Cepz/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33155 [article]

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