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Halal certification : increasingly important for personal care products / Nguyen Nguyen in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 4 (04/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 4 (04/2019) . - p. 2-3 Titre : Halal certification : increasingly important for personal care products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Nguyen Nguyen, Auteur ; Jana Ruffert, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 2-3 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Certification Cosmétiques Islam -- Coutumes et pratiques Tabou alimentaire Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Customer preferences – especially for goods that meet certain standards or specifications – are a key driver of trends in the personal care and cosmetics market. One important target segment is Muslims, whose faith prohibits the consumption of certain products. Halal certification provides them with a guarantee that their purchases comply with Islamic requirements. Halal is Arabic for “lawful” or “permissible”. The concept is most commonly associated with the food industry, but it also applies to other markets. Halal-certified personal care and beauty products, for instance, are growing in popularity. The Halal label provides certainty that an item complies with defined criteria, and can play a key role in purchasing decisions. Moreover, the Halal beauty segment has enormous potential, with an estimated market value of 52.02 billion USD (Grand View Research) [1] – making it an attractive business opportunity for manufacturers. Although there is no consensus on all elements of Halal, the majority of Muslims share a common foundation of beliefs, enabling the definition of shared criteria. For example, Halal- certified products must not contain any pork or Khamr (alcoholic beverages), or any of their derivatives. Furthermore, to qualify for Halal certification, the entire production process – from the raw materials to packaging – must undergo strict inspection. This is a complex process ; consequently, there is strong demand for Halal-certified ingredients as they make it easier for manufacturer to secure certification for the end-product. Note de contenu : - Multiple market drivers - The halal certification En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LAzrShez7-rVtA-b8Z_rjvVUNVUjxGsY/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32282 [article]

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The smart salon concept : Individualized hair care & coloration products / Thomas Förster in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 4 (04/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 4 (04/2019) . - p. 4-10 Titre : The smart salon concept : Individualized hair care & coloration products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Förster, Auteur ; Georg Knübel, Auteur ; Lucile Bonnin, Auteur ; Thomas Schröder, Auteur ; Elisabeth Poppe, Auteur ; Matthias Schweinsberg, Auteur ; Jordan Katzarov, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 4-10 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Formulation (Génie chimique) Marketing personnalisé shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Due to the individual hair-type diversity, it is nowadays challenging to satisfy all specific consumer needs. The first of its kind connected Smart Salon is combining: data driven hair analysis, a personal hair-consultation application and the formulation of a customized shampoo to address this challenge. In a first step, a wearable device composed of a near-infrared (NIR) and a visible light sensor, analyzes the hair fiber. The NIR analysis collects: the cysteic acid concentration and the water content. The actual color of the hair fiber is also measured with a visible light sensor. Quantification of the hair status is performed through analysis of chemometric data with the open-source software KNIME. In a second step, a visual evaluation e.g. previous treatment, length, thickness of the hair is performed and the user expectations e.g. volume, shine, smoothness etc. are collected in the consultation application. Finally, all gathered data are combined in a decision matrix to formulate a customized shampoo. The compact mixing machine uses a proprietary manufacturing process to produce a custom care solution. The connected ecosystem is combining innovative technologies with empirical R&D expertise to offer the best possible care solution. Automatization of the hair analysis enables a more targeted approach for individualized shampoo development. Note de contenu : - The smart salon analyzer - The smart salon application and the hairdresser's questionnaire - The smart salon customizer and tailor-made shampoo formulations - Smart salon ecosystem architecture and operation - Fig. 1 : Expert input interface from the control smart salon application - Fig. 2 : Smart salon customizer dimensions - Fig. 3 : Smart salon ecosystem at a glance - Fig. 4 : Decision matrix displaying the smart salon analyzer's output results (health level and moisture level), the hairdresser's inputs (hair type, hair length, scalp condition and choice of parfum/color) and the resulting shampoo formulation - Fig. 5 : Assessment in vivo of the customized shampoo compared to the mass manufactured care gliss kur ultimate repair shampoo and the schaum repair and care shampoo - Table 1 : Basic components of the pre-mixes - Table 2 : Detailed composition of the ten different channels/pre-mixes En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15Riw2-u9OR7cJB-4eTWqY8yeSC2FhjZ1/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32283 [article]

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CELLACTIVE - Care for hair and climate / Emina Besic Gyenge in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 4 (04/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 4 (04/2019) . - p. 12-17 Titre : CELLACTIVE - Care for hair and climate Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Sandra Breitenbach, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 12-17 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues unicellulaires Biomolécules actives Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Follicule pileux Kératinocytes Les kératinocytes sont des cellules constituant 90 % de la couche superficielle de la peau (épiderme) et des phanères (ongles, cheveux, poils, plumes, écailles). Ils synthétisent la kératine (kératinisation), une protéine fibreuse et insoluble dans l'eau, qui assure à la peau sa propriété d'imperméabilité et de protection extérieure. L'épiderme est divisé en 4 couches basées sur la morphologie des kératinocytes (de l'intérieur vers l'extérieur) : 1. stratum germinativum (couche basale à la jonction avec le derme) 2. stratum spinosum 3. stratum granulosum 4. stratum lucidum 5. stratum corneum Les kératinocytes passent progressivement de la couche basale vers les couches supérieures par différenciation cellulaire jusqu'au stratum corneum ou ils forment une couche de cellules mortes nommées squames, par apoptose. Cette couche constitue une barrière de protection et réduit la perte d'eau de l'organisme. Les kératinocytes sont en perpétuel renouvellement. Ils mettent environ 1 mois pour aller de la couche basale au stratum corneum mais ce processus peut être accéléré en cas d'hyperprolifération de kératinocyte (psoriasis). Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The microalga Chlorella vulgaris and the white lupin are well known sources of valuable nutritional building blocks such as amino acids, proteins and carbohydrates. Both superfoods are combined together in CELLACTIVE®, the Carbon Neutral Essential Cell Boost-Factor for skin and hair. The active ingredient promotes the integrity of the integumentary system and it encourages the longevity of hair follicles. Furthermore, it improves hair quality parameters such as the anti-static effect and structure. Thanks to a dedicated carbon footprint calculation and neutralisation of produced carbon dioxide, CELLACTIVE® paves the way for a new generation of climate-neutral cosmetic active ingredients with excellent transparency across their whole supply chain while assumption of social responsibility compensates for any unavoidable emissions. Note de contenu : - The "kings of superfood" : Chlorella vulgaris - the power of microalgae - Lupinus albus protein - nutraceutical seed - Hair - From root to tip - Material and methods : In vitro - Results and discussion : ECM integrity promotion (in-vitro study) - Increase of keratinocytes viability (in-vitro study) - Serum for hair follicles (ex-vivo study) - Improvement of the quality of damaged hair (ex-vivo study) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1y6MGZMiiLC_BA5FIe9cnIglbZKkieK8U/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32284 [article]

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A holistic soothing solution to the irritable skin syndrome / Imke Meyer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 4 (04/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 4 (04/2019) . - p. 18-22 Titre : A holistic soothing solution to the irritable skin syndrome Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Imke Meyer, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 18-22 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Sensibilité cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin sensitivity, scientifically called Irritable Skin Syndrome (ISS), is one of the main disturbing skin conditions and remains a growing global concern. Symrise R&D has developed specific cosmetic actives to fight the different physiological reactions that lead to skin discomfort related to the ISS. Each benefit is documented by a clinical study. SymCalmin® (INCI name: butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic Acid) effectively reduces skin itchiness and redness. While SymSitive® 1609 (INCI : pentylene glycol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol) relieves burning & stinging sensations. And to complete these two actions, recently-launched SymReboot™ L19 (INCI: maltodextrin, lactobacillus Ferment) restores and strengthens the skin’s barrier integrity to reduce Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and visible signs of dryness. These three complementary cosmetic actives soothe the skin hypersensitivity by restoring the skin homeostasis. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Dryness - Inflammation - Itchiness - Neurosensory symptoms - PART I : SYMCALMIN AGAINST ITCHY SKIN : Test protocol and results - PART II : SYMSITIVE 1609 AGAINST BURNING AND STINGING PERCEPTIONS : Test protocol and results - PART III : SYMREBOOT TM L19 AGAINST INCREASED TEWL AND DRYNES : Test protocol and results - Fig. 1 : Reduction of itching associated with dry & itchy skin by SymCalmin® - Fig. 2 : Reduction of clinical symptoms associated with dry & itchy skin by SymCalmin® - Fig. 3 : Misperceptions induced by Phenoxyethanol reduced by SymSitive® 1609 - Fig. 4 : TEWL and capacitance of extra dry skin are improved significantly by SymReboot™ L19 - Fig. 5 : SymReboot™ L19 is reducing visibly the signs of dry skin En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Rhu5Subypa8Rgk-ofAmCGFeJ4n0t1ZYs/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32285 [article]

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Sorbate : nature identical, non-sensitizing, label friendly preservatives for home care detergent products / Sylvia Nefkens in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 4 (04/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 4 (04/2019) . - p. 26-32 Titre : Sorbate : nature identical, non-sensitizing, label friendly preservatives for home care detergent products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sylvia Nefkens, Auteur ; Aukje van Kooij, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 26-32 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie) Conservateurs (chimie) -- Suppression ou remplacement Détergents Essais (technologie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Méthylisothiazolinone pH Sorbate de potassium Le sorbate de potassium (E202) est un additif alimentaire, plus précisément un agent conservateur. Chimiquement, c'est un sel de potassium de l'acide sorbique (E200). Il est synthétisé chimiquement et on le retrouve dans de nombreux aliments tels que les yaourts aux fruits, les sauces, les boissons ou encore certains beurres allégés. (Wikipedia) Vaisselle -- Nettoyage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : With the preservative methylisothiazolinone under regulatory pressure due to its skin-sensitizing potential, and consumers increasingly looking for home care products that are both human- and environmentally friendly, formulators are searching for alternatives to isothiazolinones to preserve home care products. Sorbates have a long history of safe use in food, pharmaceutical and personal care applications. They are considered nature identical and are ecolabel compliant. As biocidal products, under the applicable biocidal product Regulation (EU) 528/2012 (BPR), Nutrinova® Potassium Sorbate BFX Granules and Nutrinova® Sorbic Acid BFX DF have now been made available for home care formulations by Celanese, the only western manufacturer of potassium sorbate and sorbic acid. Their efficacy at use levels of 0.1-0.4%, both bactericidal and fungicidal, is demonstrated in a range of home care detergent formulations, such as manual dishwashing liquids, fabric conditioners and all-purpose cleaners. Their viability as a possible efficacious alternative to isothiazolinones in such formulations is thus supported. Note de contenu : - Sorbates as a Possible Alternative to Isothiazolinones for Home care products - Efficacy of sorbates in function of pH - Efficacy of sorbates in various home care formulations : Preservative efficacy in manual dishwashing formulations at pH 5.5 and pH 6.0 - Fig. 1 : Typical pH range of home care detergent products and suitable pH range for selected preservatives - Fig. 2 : Equilibrium of potassium sorbate and sorbic acid in aqueous solution - Fig. 3 : Challenge test results of low surfactant concentration and high surfactant concentration manual dishwashing liquids at pH 5.5 - Fig. 4 : Challenge test results manual dishwash formulations at pH 6.0 - Table 1 : Percentage of un-dissociated acid as a function of pH for sorbic acid and benzoic acid - Table 2 : Pass criteria for Ph. Eur. challenge test - Table 3 : Composition of the low surfactant concentration and high surfactant concentration manual dishwash formulations at pH 5.5 - Table 4 : Liquid fabric conditioner composition - Table 5 : Results of challenge test on liquid fabric conditioner - Table 6 : Composition of all-purpose cleaner spray formulation at pH 7.0 - Table 7 : Challenge test results all-purpose cleaner spray formulation at pH 7.0 - Table 8 : Composition of basic all-purpose spray formulation at pH 5.5 - Table 9 : Micro-organisms included in the consortia of bacteria and fungi - Table 10 : Results of the preservative efficacy test in a basic multi-purpose cleaner spray formulation, consortium of bacteria - Table 11 : Results of the preservative efficacy test in a basic multi-purpose cleaner spray formulation, consortium of fungi En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Lz7z-vCJbRJhBZ4XYqHeqlibEI0E4dCS/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32286 [article]

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