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Naturally mobilize the senses into the skin / Sandrine gofflo ; S. Le Davadic ; Emilie Lasjaunias ; Brigitte Closs in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019) . - p. 2-7 Titre : Naturally mobilize the senses into the skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sandrine gofflo, Auteur ; S. Le Davadic, Auteur ; Emilie Lasjaunias, Auteur ; Brigitte Closs, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 2-7 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Epiderme Noix de coco et constituants Peau -- Soins et hygiène Récepteurs sensoriels Régénération (biologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Stimulated by beauty rituals, the senses can also awakened into the skin through recently observed biological activity. The discovery of sensory receptors in the epidermis, in particular olfactory and taste receptors, opens up new prospects for the regeneration of skin tissue in aging conditions. Based on strong scientific expertise (in vitro modeling study, metabolomic study, in silico molecular modeling), SILAB developed a cosmetic natural active ingredient imbued with sensoriality targeting epidermal regeneration. It is derived from a co-product of coconut, a tropical fruit with a unique sensory profile. Note de contenu : - Sensoriality into the skin, an innovative concept - Choosing the right natural raw material : from efficacy to eco-responsibility - A natural active ingredient awakening the sensoriality of old skin - Fig. 1 : Coconut (Cocos nucifera) fruit - Fig. 2 : Characterization of the structure/function relationship of olfactory receptors - Fig. 3 : Coconut landscape in Sri Lanka - Fig. 4 : Effect of Sensorialine on the synthesis of olfactory and taste receptors by explants from old donors - Fig. 5 : Effect of Sensorialine on epidermal regeneration (stratum corneum) - Fig. 6 : Effect of Sensorialine on transepidermal water loss in caucasian volunteers En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yfu5tb688BIWdNDqFZUiKb_Sq5_3KX81/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31701 [article]

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The fusion of ancient wisdom with advanced technology / Yilei Fu in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019) . - p. 8-12 Titre : The fusion of ancient wisdom with advanced technology Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yilei Fu, Auteur ; Melanie Schoelzel, Auteur ; Franck Michoux, Auteur ; Annika Schrader, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 8-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Driven by the consumer's trust in traditional botanicals and desire for high-tech innovation, we have combined ancient ayurvedic wisdom with advanced botanical technology in our latest innovation : NeoPlanta Withania. For over thousands of years, Withania somnifera has been used to strengthen the immune system, support vitality and to reduce stress. Growing in harsh conditions, in hot, dry climates as well as high up in the Himalayas, Withania somnifera proves strength, concentrating its healing properties in the roots. Looking for sustainability, we have optimized in vitro cultivation methods to boost the plant's capabilities under controlled conditions, thereby adding more benefits to the gift of nature. For NeoPlanta Withania, the extract is obtained exclusively from the roots of the plant. In vitro and in vivo studies demonstrate the power of this ingredient to fight oxidative stress and protect against DNA damage leading to a smooth and healthy skin appearance, visibly through improved skin elasticity, skin texture and volume. NeoPlanta Withania protects the skin against various stress factors, thereby enabling a healthy and vital skin despite of sun and lifestyle. Note de contenu : - Withania somnifera unfolds its effects for thousands of years - Combining traditional medicine with sustainable biotech innovation - From the roots of natural beauty to protection against stress factors - Anti-oxidant effect and protection against UV-induced ROS and DNA damage - Protective effect against sun-stressed skin - Protective effect against modern lifestyle influenced stress factors - Ideal mystical plant for skin care applications En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aV49ujFWhyWO6Q4fpjKTw7YoiJI_Q9FM/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31702 [article]

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Natural waxes : sustainability & social responsibility / Martina Heldermann in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019) . - p. 14-16 Titre : Natural waxes : sustainability & social responsibility Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martina Heldermann, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 14-16 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cires végétales Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Nowadays, the word 'sustainable' gets almost overstrained and often misused as most people do not entirely know what it exactly means. In general, sustainability is composed of three pillars : environment, economy, and society. The pillar "ecologic sustainability" describes the gentle handling of natural resources in order to maintain our planet for following generations. This includes climate protection, preservation of biodiversity, and the maintenance of the landscape in its original form. "Economic sustainability" claims a sustainable subsistence strategy for a permanent fundament for prosperity while the society lives within its means. The pillar "social sustainability" encompasses issues such as health and safety, personnel policies and codes of business conduct. Every pillar has a regional, national, and global level of consideration. Note de contenu : - Reduction of water consumption - Waste reduction - Candellila wax - Myrica fruit wax - Jasmine, Rose and Tea Wax En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Brk8wCoAZQLDXfjlAL4fgm9TiLoA03y3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31703 [article]

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Discussion on the safety of facial mask products from the perspective of the disturbance influence of preservatives on the epidermis micro-ecology (Part 1) / Xing Liu in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019) . - p. 18-21 Titre : Discussion on the safety of facial mask products from the perspective of the disturbance influence of preservatives on the epidermis micro-ecology (Part 1) Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Xing Liu, Auteur ; Ying Dai, Auteur ; Zhao Junfeng, Auteur ; Yiting Chen, Auteur ; Hewei Li, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 18-21 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie) Flore cutanée Masques (cosmétique) Microbiote Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : By using two kinds of masks, human cheeks were sampled and cultured to compare the population dynamics and distribution state of flora on human cheeks after using the mask products with and without preservatives. The total number of bacterial colonies on human cheeks decreased significantly after 4 days of application of masks with preservatives, but increased while it did not reach the initial level after 4 days of discontinuation. The total number of bacterial colonies on human cheeks and flora proportion had no prominent change after 4 days of application of masks without preservatives. The results showed that the continuous use of preservative-containing masks seriously disturbed the micro-ecological balance of human cheeks, and the continuous use of non-preservative masks had no significant effect on the micro-ecological balance of human cheek. Note de contenu : - Research status of micro-ecology - Regulations and status of preservatives in mask products - Analysis of usage test data of masks with and without preservatives - Fig. 1 : Dynamic map of the cheek microbiota of the group with continuous use of preservative mask - Fig. 2 : Dynamic map of the cheek microbiota of the group with continuous use of preservative-free mask En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TFn9fOh8lIQmhFkFVtoROkuwlf68pfJH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31704 [article]

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Novel peptide acting on both the pre- and post-synaptic pathways / Miriam Mateu in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019) . - p. 22-26 Titre : Novel peptide acting on both the pre- and post-synaptic pathways Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Miriam Mateu, Auteur ; Ariadna Grau-Campistany, Auteur ; M. J. Klein, Auteur ; Silvia Pastor, Auteur ; Patricia Carulla, Auteur ; J. A. Boras, Auteur ; Mikel Gorostiaga, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 22-26 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peptides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : An excess of repeated contraction of the muscles involved in facial expressions results in the appearance of fine lines known as expression wrinkles. Neurotransmission that precedes contraction has been widely studied both in the pre-synaptic neuron and its effects on the post-synaptic muscle. Botulinum toxin treatments have lived together with cosmetic ingredients acting in the pre-synaptic or the post-synaptic pathways to relax muscle contraction and improve the fine lines. Here, we present a peptide, born from in silico design, able to work on both the pre- and post-synaptic pathways and on a new protein in the Cosmetics field Munc 18-1. Munapsys efficacy was tested in vivo against a combination of benchmarks covering both pathways. The peptide demonstrated similar or even better results at a lower concentration. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Munc 18-1/Syntaxin-1 binding assay - Pre-synaptic neurotransmitter release - Post-synaptic gene expression modulation - Calcium mobilization in the sarcoplasm - Myosin quantification - Human neuron-muscle contraction - Double-blind assessment of anti-wrinkles efficacy - Proof-of-concept sad smile - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Munc 18-1/Syntaxin-1 binding assay - Pre-synaptic neurotransmitter release - Post-synaptic gene expression modulation - Calcium mobilization in the sarcoplasm - Myosin quantification - Human neuron-muscle contraction - Double-blind assessment of anti-wrinkles efficacy - Proof-of-concept sad smile En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WxQyw5Fb6uq3I-hisxcN-t4LbSctjrkb/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31712 [article]

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Improving protease stability in liquid detergents by protein engineering in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019) . - p. 28-31 Titre : Improving protease stability in liquid detergents by protein engineering Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 28-31 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Additifs Détergents Peptidases Stabilité chimique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Enzymes have been used to improve the cleaning efficiency and fabric care benefits of detergents for several years, and are now well accepted as ingredients in a wide range of product formats. The main challenge with enzymes in laundry detergents is that they can lose activity over time. With the global rise of liquid laundry detergents, formulators need to balance the shelf stability of the enzymes against destabilizing effects of anionic surfactants and other chemicals. Recently, much effort has been invested to improve enzyme stability by means of protein engineering. This article reports on the development of a structurally stable protease that opens up avenues for the formulator to improve the aged cleaning performance of the liquid detergent or use alternative chemical stabilizers. Note de contenu : - Enzyme degradation in liquid detergent formulations - Stabilization by chemical additives - The protein engineering approach - Materials and methods - Improving the structural stability of protease - Alternative stabilizer approach for enzymatic liquid detergents En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1f-E1O-GY4ZhU1F5I9QxShijPmmPJE_9f/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31714 [article]

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Sodium benzoate, a new alternative for preservation in home care / Amber Yarnell in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019) . - p. 32-35 Titre : Sodium benzoate, a new alternative for preservation in home care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Amber Yarnell, Auteur ; S. F. Forster, Auteur ; Jenna Blankenship, Auteur ; P. Wanrooij, Auteur ; K. J. Posselt, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 32-35 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Benzoate de sodium Le benzoate de sodium, de formule chimique (Na+ + C6H5COO-)(NaC6H5COO) est le sel de sodium de l'acide benzoïque, connu sous le nom E211 comme additif alimentaire. Soluble à raison de 640 parts pour 1000 d'eau à 25 °C. Il précipite en présence d'un acide concentré (ex.: l'acide sulfurique concentré) en donnant de l'acide benzoïque (très peu soluble dans l'eau) dont on peut analyser plus facilement le point de fusion. Sa dissolution aqueuse engendre une augmentation du pH. L'acide benzoïque est produit industriellement selon 3 voies : 1. Oxydation de naphtalène en anhydride phtalique en présence de catalyseur oxyde de vanadium. L'anhydride phtalique est ensuite décarboxylé produisant l'acide benzoïque. 2. Oxydation d'un mélange de toluène et d'acide nitrique produisant l'acide benzoïque. 3. Hydrolyse du trichlorobenzène produisant l'acide benzoïque. L'acide benzoïque est ensuite dissout dans une solution d'hydroxyde de sodium pour former du benzoate de sodium. Le benzoate de sodium est utilisé comme conservateur alimentaire, autorisé sous condition et référencé en Europe sous le code E211. Détergents Produits nettoyants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Consumer scrutiny and regulations have restricted the preservative palette available to home care formulators. Preservatives for home care must be BPR registered under product type 6 (Preservatives for products during storage). The current options present a growing number of challenges to consumer goods companies and formulators, including negative labeling requirementsfor corrosiveness or skin sensitization and compatibility with other ingredients. Sodium benzoate is now avaible for household and laundry care applications (under trade name Kalaguard* SB) and fills the market need for a widely effective, economical, green-label preservative. The efficacy of sodium benzoate was investigated in home care applications at pH 5.0 to 7.0, alone and in combination with low levels of MIT/MCIT and EDTA. Sodium benzoate effectively preserved the example home care formulations using concentrations ranging from 0.35 to 1.5%, depending on the formulation and pH. Note de contenu : - Fabric conditioner - General purpose cleaner - Hand dish wash liquid En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1k6gGbByoi3obFbgyKCzCdHX0-tI_vb9G/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31715 [article]

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"Natural" and "Organic" in cosmetic, related products and ingredients / Wladyslaw S. Brud in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019) . - p. 36-39 Titre : "Natural" and "Organic" in cosmetic, related products and ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Wladyslaw S. Brud, Auteur ; Iwona Konopacka-Brud, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 36-39 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biocosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Législation Produits naturels Terminologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Words "Natural" and "Organic" are more and more used on labels, advertising, publications, press articles, etc. to describe the special qualities of cosmetic, household and related products based on raw materials of natural origin are better and safer than those derived from chemical synthesis, especially those based on petrochemicals. The main problem in this issue is that neither of the two terms is precisely defined, especially in relation to products of the cosmetic and household industry. "Natural cosmetic" may mean anything what creative marketing can imagine. Although there are some works performed to clarify theses doubts, the economy behind production and certification of this group of products does not support the idea. This, however, creates a very ambiguous situation on the market and which is more important in legislation both internally created by the industry and officially issued by governments and international bodies. Note de contenu : - NATURAL IN DICTIONARIES : Oxford dictionary, natural, adjective - Webster's Dictionary, natural - Cambridge Dictionary natural adjective (not artificial) - WordNet Dictionary natural adjective - ORGANIC IN DICTIONARIES : Oxford Dictionary, organic adjective - Webster's Dictionary, organic, adjective - Cambridge Dictionary, organic, adjective - WordNet Dictionary, organic, adjective - IN GERMAN : PONS Online-Wörterbuch - Wörterbuch der deutschen Gegenwartssprache (WDG) - NATURAL AND ORGANIC IN LEGAL DOCUMENTS : Food and drug administration USA Natural definition for food - Organic definition for food - Organic definition for cosmetics - European union directives organic definitione for food - Natural and organic definition for cosmetics - COSMETIC ORGANIC AND NATURAL STANDARD COSMOS-STANDARD En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pSOM6JNMV3C1ZqeKNpzzo8CTHR9kL_QS/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31720 [article]

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Do good, look great : the case for side stream ingredients / Piera Pericu in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019) . - p. 44-46 Titre : Do good, look great : the case for side stream ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Piera Pericu, Auteur ; Todd Krieger, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 44-46 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bétaïne Les bétaïnes sont les composés zwitterioniques dont l'atome portant la charge positive ne porte pas d'atome d'hydrogène et n'est pas adjacent à l'atome portant la charge négative1. Les bétaïnes n'admettent pas de formes limites sans charge. Historiquement, le terme désigne les ammoniums quaternaires dérivés des acides aminés. Le nom de bétaïne vient de la betterave sucrière d'où a été extraite la première bétaïne découverte, la triméthylglycine (TMG, historiquement appelée "bétaïne") aujourd'hui appelée "glycine bétaïne". Betterave Bilan des émissions de gaz à effets de serre Développement durable Ingrédients cosmétiques shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Today's consumer understands the need for sustainability. They "get" it. And, increasingly, they demand it. But they also expect ethically produced goods to perform equally to, if not better than, their conventionally produced counterparts. Note de contenu : - Safe enough to eat - Future proof ressources - Life cycle assessment - The beauty of sugar beets - Continuous innovation and improvement En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oqUfYf9QUb9WhrSRbyi3qMTsiUt6-iQ2/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31721 [article]

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