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Face and body cellular senescence delayer / Sabrina Leoty-Okombi in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016) . - p. 2-6 Titre : Face and body cellular senescence delayer : BASF's anti-ageint active Lys'lastine V reduces progerin and increases klotho, while re-inducing expression of LOXL Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sabrina Leoty-Okombi, Auteur ; Catherine Bonnaud-Rosaye, Auteur ; Valérie André-Frei, Auteur ; David Bothorel, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 2-6 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Fibroblastes Peau -- Soins et hygiène Progérine Vieillissement Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : With Lys'IastineTM V, we present an anti-ageing active that targets the cellular senescence of fibroblasts. In vitro, 0.025% Lys'lastine V significantly reduced the accumulation of progerin, the "ageing protein" that is linked to replicative senescence in fibroblasts (-54 %). Furthermore, 0.05 % Lys'lastine V significantly increased levels of the "youth protein" Klotho (+34%), while 1 % Lyslastine V re-induced expression of lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL) in reconstructed dermis (MimedermTM) (+64%) and increased levels of LOXL in a reconstructed skin model (MimeskinTm). LOXL is the cross-Iinking agent responsible for the deposit of tropoelastin on microfibrils and therefore the synthesis of functional elastic fibers in the dermis — but from the age of 18, it decreases rapidly. By re-inducing LOXL, this BASF active helps restore the skin's elasticity, ln a clinical study, Lys'lastine V was proven to significantly improve the skin's suppleness, both on the face and décolleté. Note de contenu : - CELLULAR SENESCENCE DELAYER - PROOF OF CONCEPT - IN VITRO ASSESSMENTS : Effect of Lys'lastine V on progerin - Effect of Lys'lastine V on Klotho - Effect of Lys'lastine V on LOXL - PROOF OF CONCEPT - IN VIVO ASSESSMENTS : Effect of Lys'lastine V on the decolleté - Dill (Anethum graveolens - FIGURES : 1. Senescent fibroblasts and effects of Lys'lastine V - 2. Progerin expression in dermal fibroblasts after four days with Lys'lastine V starting at 0.01% vs. untreated control - 3. Klotho expression in dermal fibroblasts after 24 hours with Lys'lastine V starting at 0.01% vs. untreated control - 4. Quantitative RT PCR analysis of mRNA expression of tropoelastin and LOXL using Mimederm - 5. Skin stretchability (RO) and skin stretchability after three suctions (R3) with 1% Lys'lastine V vs. placebo En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1argutiVAWGjz5TeNV-dlBOfSvLWy5QfV/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=27190 [article]

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Dermatological activities of saskatoon berry extract / A. Waelti in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016) . - p. 8-12 Titre : Dermatological activities of saskatoon berry extract : A rich source of antioxidants with positive benefits for the skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : A. Waelti, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 8-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Antiâge Antioxydants Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Stress oxydatif Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Saskatoon berry extract, derived from Saskatoon berries (botanical name : Amelanchier alnifolia Nutt.), is becoming increasingly popular as a result of continuing research into its health and skin care benefits. Tested in cell cultures, the extract is shown to be a rich source of natural antioxidants such as vitamins A and C, anthocyanins, polyphenols and flavonoids. Results show that the high flavonoid content of Saskatoon berry extract is associated with reduced levels of oxidative stress, which is linked to ageing. Research data on anthocyanins and other antioxidants have confirmed the effects of reducing oxidative stress. The current study shows that Saskatoon berry extract plays a role in collagen synthesis, inhibits NF-kB, stimulates glucose uptake in keratinocytes, induces autophagy, and is a mild agonist for cannabinoid receptor type 2. The research results indicate the potential use of Saskatoon berry extract in cosmetic formulations for anti-ageing, whitening, moisturising and refirming products. Note de contenu : - Saskatoon berry extract activates COL1A2 gene promoter - Saskatoon berry extract inhibits NF-kB activation in fibroblasts - Saskatoon berry extract enhances glucose uptake in HaCaT keratinocytes - Saskatoon berry extract induces autophagy in HaCaT keratinocytes - Saskatoon berry extract is a mild against of cannabinoid receptor type 2 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Dfb9FkK9K3pL06Pk_HX96lhaHd6OQD0z/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=27191 [article]

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Burning fat for body shaping and cellulite treatment / Franziska Wandrey in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016) . - p. 14-18 Titre : Burning fat for body shaping and cellulite treatment Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Franziska Wandrey, Auteur ; Rikka Sacher, Auteur ; Daniel Schmid, Auteur ; Fred Zülli, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 14-18 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Amincissants Cellulite Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Moutarde et constituants Soins de beauté Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Within the last couple of years a new weight loss strategy emerged with the findings that fat cells can be driven to burn fat instead of storing fat. This newly discovered type of fat cell is called brown fat tell and the process of turning fat storing cells into fat burning machines is called browning. We found that an ethanol extract of mustard sprouts induces browning of the skin fat tissue and thus is an ideal candidate to help in burning fat. To efficiently reduce cellulite appearance as well, the mustard sprout extract was combined with natural capsaicin to locally activate the microcirculation in the skin. This oil-soluble mixture activates two important mechanisms in the skin that help to visibly reduce cellulite and to shape the body. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Adipocyte Browning A novel mechanism to burn fat - What causes cellulite and how can it be reduced ? - Mustard and chili Two spicy ingredients that possess the activity to shape the body - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Induction of adipocyte browning - Subcutaneous micro circulation measurement - Clinical study with dermis-hypodermis junction distance and girth measurements - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Brassica alba sprout extract induces the expression of brown adipocyte tissue markers - Shaping active leads to increased subcutaneous blood flow - A Slimming and anti-cellulite effect of shaping active En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yXhOFS4g9omJtnypFtpKXxTiTk6nIZzd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=27192 [article]

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Advanced mechanisms for a toned and defined body silouette / Alicia Giménez in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016) . - p. 20-23 Titre : Advanced mechanisms for a toned and defined body silouette Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alicia Giménez, Auteur ; Cristina Davi, Auteur ; Elena Cañadas, Auteur ; Nùria Almiñana, Auteur ; Raquel Delgado, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 20-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Amincissants Cellulite Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : It is very common for people to feel some degree of dissatisfaction regarding their body image. In many cases, this is due to the presence of cellulite, originating in the subcutaneous adipose tissue as a consequence of adipogenesis and lipid accumulation. On the other hand, body silhouette is another common concern. Apart from the excessive accumulation of fat in some areas, the tone of underiying muscles decreases progressively with ageing or because of insufficient physical activity, contributing to body sagginess, especially in the arms, abdomen and buttocks. Biotechnological solutions, in the form of two cosmetic ingredients that can help to improve body appearance, are descrihed here. Note de contenu : - CIRCADIAN REGULATION OF LIPID ACCUMULATION - PHYSICAL EXERCISE, ADIPOSE TISSUE AND MUSCLE TONE - RELEVANT INGREDIENTS FOR OPTIMAL BODY CARE - EFFICACY OF THE ANTI-CELLULITE INGREDIENT : Reduction in the levels of nocturnin - Stimulation of lipolysis at night - Reduced lipid accumulation - Improved appearance of cellulite - EFFICACY OF THE BODY TONING INGREDIENT : Induction of adiponectin in adipocytes - Effect on muscle fibres - Silhouette redefinition En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1m3Dn4FCrjqAp6bLxV0EKAuYqJYDXObkC/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=27193 [article]

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Microbiota-friendly epilobium angustifolium extract regulates dandruff and sebum production via immunomodulation of the skin response to malassezia invasion / Estelle Loing in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016) . - p. 24-28 Titre : Microbiota-friendly epilobium angustifolium extract regulates dandruff and sebum production via immunomodulation of the skin response to malassezia invasion Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Estelle Loing, Auteur ; Joan Attia-Vigneau, Auteur ; Magali Borel, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 24-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antipelliculaires Cosmétiques Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The present paper reports the in vivo anti-dandruff and sebum regulating potentiel of an extract of Epilobium angustifolium. Results from in vitro and ex vivo studies showing inhibition of 5-alpha reductase activity, increased involucrin expression, reduced lipid synthesis, and protection of the epidermis from Malassezia-incruced morphological changes through a mechanism involving modulation of defensins (hBD2 and hBD3) and TLR2 expression, have been described in SOFW Journal 08/16. The anti-dandruff and sebum regulating efficacy of E. angustifolium extract (1.5 "Yo) were confirmed in a clinical study that mobilized 24 volunteers with dandruff and greasy scalp for 30 deys. At the end of the study, non-adherent and adherent dandruffs were significantly (p<0.0001) reduced by -54% and -48 % respectively and scalp sebum production was inhibited by -67 % (p<0.0001). ln a second clinical study, the anti-irritation potentiel of E. angustifolium extract (3 %) was evaluated on the forearm of 8 healthy volunteers, following lactic acid challenge. A strong and fast decrease in the appearance of lactic acid-induced erythema (-24 % at 30 minutes and -27 % at 24 hours) was reported following application of the extract on the challenged zones. In conclusion, E. angustifolium extract offers an efficient and innovative approach to dandruff reduction through immunomodulation of the skin response to Malassezia invasion. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis - Role of sebaceous gland activity - Stratum corneum dysfunction - Inflammatory response - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Epilobium angustifolium extract - Clinical evaluation of E. Angustifolium extract En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1x5cvCPt6zYPAwa7nbpThhSFEXuyeE4JE/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=27194 [article]

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Shielding against pollution for pristine clear skin / Liki von Oppen-Bezalel in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016) . - p. 32-37 Titre : Shielding against pollution for pristine clear skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Liki von Oppen-Bezalel, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 32-37 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Détoxication métabolique d'une substance Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Jojoba et constituants Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Peau -- Soins et hygiène Polluants atmosphériques Pollution -- Effets physiologiques Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Urban air pollution, caused by industry, vehicle fumes, cigarette smoke and other sources, is known to have a detrimental effect on our skin. With time, urban air pollution leads to early signs of ageing, including wrinkles, pigmentation spots, disrupted barrier, overall dryness and skin imperfections. Smog and air pollutants are not a single compound, but are rather composed of a highly complex mixture of molecules and particles that are both breathed into our lungs and absorbed through the skin. Combating these harmful effects can be done using multiple approaches : (2) Preventing the penetration of pollutants into the skin by reinforcing the skin as a barrier ; and (2) Detoxifying the harmful molecules that manage to penetrate the skin barrier by reducing inflammation, stimulating anti-oxidation and increasing healthy cell survival. IBR offers a combined approach to help protect the skin. IBR-Gapture®, an aqueous jojoba leaf extract, has been shown to strengthen and tighten the skin gap junction and connections, thereby reinforcing the skin‘s barrier. This shields our skin from the harmful effects of urban pollution by blocking the absorption of particulate matter into the skin. IBR-Pristinizer®, an aqueous Asteriscus graveolens extract, prevents skin damage from urban pollution by activating detoxifying pathways within the cells that neutralise absorbed particles and molecules. It has been shown to stimulate antioxidant and antiinflammatory functions in the skin cells and to protect cells from DNA damage caused by urban pollutants. Note de contenu : - SOLUTIONS : Preventing penetration by reinforcing the skin as a barrier - Detoxifying the harmful molecules that pass through the skin barrier, reducing inflammation, stimulating anti-oxidation and increasing healthy cell survival - THE MODEL : Cigarette smoke-induced cytotoxicity on normal human epidermal keratinocytes - THE MECHANISM OF ACTION PROTECTION ELUCIDATION FOLLOWING GENE EXPRESSION IN KERATIONCYTES - IN VIVO ANTI-AGEING IN SMOKING ENVIRONMENT AIM AND PRINCIPLE OF THE STUDY - STUDY DESIGN - ANTI-AGEING (ANTI-WRINKLE) : Primos - Skin colour (chromameter) - Skin hydration (corneometer) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KtNfJlnDa9H8ppW19kxCrKqG1W58Rpgm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=27195 [article]

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Advances in dry skin decontamination using absorbent textile materials / Fanny Knorr in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016) . - p. 38-42 Titre : Advances in dry skin decontamination using absorbent textile materials Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Fanny Knorr, Auteur ; Alexa Patzelt, Auteur ; Heike Richter, Auteur ; Martina C. Meinke, Auteur ; Maxim E. Darvin, Auteur ; Jürgen Lademann, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 38-42 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorbants et adsorbants Cosmétotextiles Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Peau -- Soins et hygiène Polluants atmosphériques Pollution -- Effets physiologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Increasing industrialization has led to a rise in airborne pollutants such as soot particles, which can adhere to the skin and cause a multitude of irritations and diseases. The removal or reduction of such harmful agents from the skin, i.e. skin decontamination, is a critical step in reducing the clinical effects of the noxious substances in patients. While for many agents, washing with soap and water is sufficient to eliminate the risks, this may be particularly problematic for particulate contaminants which adhere to and accumulate on the skin, and enter into the follicular orifices, where they can remain for extended periods of time. Research indicates that washing may in fact potentiate this effect. In the follicular ducts, organic or metal compounds adsorbed to the soot particles may induce local and systemic harm. In the present work, an overview is provided for the use of specific absorbent textile materials based on super-absorbing particles and nanofibers to remove strongly adhering liquid substances as well as nanoparticles from the skin. Note de contenu : - Decontamination of highly adherent substances from the skin - Decontamination of particulates from the skin En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yCSPEbhfDzyBJzff9aih3T-GhJCKkt_K/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=27196 [article]

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Sophorolipids - Biosurfactants with natural cleaning power produced through fermentation / Dirk Kuppert in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016) . - p. 44-48 Titre : Sophorolipids - Biosurfactants with natural cleaning power produced through fermentation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Dirk Kuppert, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 44-48 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biosurfactants Détergents Fermentation Sophorolipides Surfactants -- Biodégradation Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : Consumers’ increasing awareness of sustainable products that are safe for humans and that also have a reduced impact on the environment has also been responsible for the growing demand for alternative surfactants in laundry detergents and cleaning products. However, skin tolerance, for example, should not mean that compromises have to be made with regard to the surfactants’ cleaning power. Biosurfactants from the sophorolipid group, made from natural yeast through biotechnological fermentation, offer an unrivalled combination of outstanding cleaning power, extraordinary environmental and skin compatibility, enzyme compatibility and a sustainable raw material base. By developing a new efficient fermentation process that does not involve genetic engineering, Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH is now able to provide sophorolipids under the brand name REWOFERM® SL 446 in commercial quantities and with a consistent quality for laundry detergents and cleaning products. REWOFERM® SL 444 has a favourable ecotoxicological profile, is completely biodegradable, and also exhibits an extremely high degree of skin tolerance and enzyme compatibility. The good cleaning power of sophorolipids, especially on grease stains, can be used in many different applications, such as liquid detergents, cleaning products for hard surfaces, and dishwashing liquid. Consequently, sophorolipids meet the requirements for sustainable surfactants in terms of highly effective cleaning power, while still being mild to the skin and environmentally compatible. Note de contenu : - PROPERTIES OF SOPHOROLIPIDS : Ecotoxicology - Skin mildness - Compatibility with enzymes - USES OF SOPHOROLIPIDS IN LAUNDRY DETERGENTS AND CLEANING PRODUCTS : Liquid detergents - Cleaning hard surfaces - Diswashing liquid En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LEsSnDC1TvVyG0BdVQVa4KOe1IRxo1AL/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=27197 [article]

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Color measurement made easy / Björn Hotting in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016) . - p. 50-52 Titre : Color measurement made easy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Björn Hotting, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 50-52 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Colorimétrie Taches Textiles et tissus -- Lavage Index. décimale : 677 Textiles Résumé : A new camera based color measurement technology combines the best of two worlds, object assessment and accurate color measurement. Measuring multiple areas in one cycle speeds up the process and adding user friendly software allows unskilled workers to operate it. In the detergent industry standardized stains are washed and the change of their color is a strong parameter which is used to improve the product and create new formulas. In the same way that a red wine stain is washed out of a white shirt back at home. Note de contenu : - Diswash testing & sub areas - Accuracy - Barcode reading the coded test material - Customers & markets : Benefits - Skin colour measurement En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-nkCi52z3fIhf-orSUoT89kfJS0MPwfd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=27198 [article]

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Color - A flawless day at the sea foundation, CFS_004_02 in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 9 (09/2016) . - p. 60 Titre : Color - A flawless day at the sea foundation, CFS_004_02 Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 60 Note générale : Fiche formulation Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Fond de teint Formulation (Génie chimique) Maquillage Sticks cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This high-coverage foundation stick makes blemishes disappear. In spite of its high pigments load, it does not give a masklike look but provides an even and healthy complexion. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15REB-FWbzFEA7gHeScX_KazsLanAi0u5/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41013 [article]

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