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Mention de date : 04/1999
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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierInhibitory effects of 150 plant extracts on elastase activity, and their anti-inflammatory effects / K.-K. Lee in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 2 (04/1999)
Titre : Inhibitory effects of 150 plant extracts on elastase activity, and their anti-inflammatory effects Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : K.-K. Lee, Auteur ; J.-H. Kim, Auteur ; J.-J. Cho, Auteur ; J.-D. Choi, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 71-82 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Ingrédients cosmétiquesTags : Antioxidant Elastase Hyaluronidase Inhibition 'Extraits de plantes' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The inhibitory effects of 150 medicinal plants on elastase activity were investigated. Among the 150 plants, six plant extracts (final concentration 1 mg/ml in methanol) exhibited more than 65% of inhibition of elastase activity. The inhibitory effects of six active plants, including Areca catechu (IC50, 42.4 μg/ml), Cinnamonum cassia (IC50, 208.7 μg/ml), Myristica fragrans (IC50, 284.1 μg/ml), Curcuma longa (IC50, 398.4 μg/ml), Alpinia katsumadai (IC50, 465.7 μg/ml) and Dryopteris cassirrhizoma (IC50, 714.4 μg/ml) on the activity of human leukocyte elastase, hyaluronidase and lipid peroxidation were examined. In the lipid peroxidation assay, using the TBA method, three of the six plants, including Curcuma longa (IC50, 45.5 μg/ml), Areca catechu (IC50, 51.0 μg/ml) and Alpinia katsumadai (IC50, 116.3 μg/ml) exhibited more than 70% inhibition at the concentration of 1 μg/ml, but only one plant, Areca catechu (IC50, 563 μg/ml) showed high inhibitory effect on hyaluronidase activity. The results suggest that medicinal plants showing several biological activities may be potent inhibitors of the anti-ageing process in skin. This property might be useful for application in cosmetics. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181638.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181638.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26493
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 2 (04/1999) . - p. 71-82[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Oxidative effects of cigarette smoke on the human skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Egawa, Auteur ; Yoshimaru Kumano, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 83–98 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimiluminescence
Chromatographie en phase liquide à hautes performances
Oxydation
Peau -- analyse
Tabac -- Effets physiologiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The oxidative effects of cigarette smoke on the human skin were investigated. A remarkable increase in the conversion ratio of squalene (SQ) to squalene monohydroperoxide (SQHPO) due to exposure to cigarette smoke was observed using a CL-HPLC (high performance liquid chromatography with a chemiluminescence detector) system. The results showed that cigarette smoke caused lipid peroxidation. We also found that the addition of chain-breaking-type antioxidants, such as oolong tea extract, inhibited the peroxidation. When cultured human skin fibroblasts were exposed to cigarette smoke, this increased the intensity of ultraweak chemiluminescence (CL), leading us to assume that cigarette smoke caused oxidation in cultured human skin fibroblasts. When the cultured human skin fibroblasts were treated with antioxidants such as glutathione, thiotaurine, hypotaurine and ascorbic acid there was little increase in CL, meaning that oxidation had been prevented in the human skin fibroblasts. We also exposed the human forearm to cigarette smoke and obtained sebum using cotton immersed in acetone in order to measure hydroperoxide levels by means of a CL-HPLC system. The exposure of skin to the smoke caused a dose-dependent increase in hydroperoxides derived from cigarette smoke. Further exposure of the forearm to cigarette smoke increased the intensity of CL, but pretreating the skin with antioxidants such as glutathione, thiotaurine and hypotaurine inhibited this increase. From these results, we concluded that cigarette smoke had an oxidative effect on SQ, cultured human skin fibroblasts and the surface of the human skin. The application of antioxidants prevented the cigarette smoke-induced oxidation. We consider that these oxidative effects on the skin could be a cause of skin disorders and skin aging. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181656.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181656.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26494
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 2 (04/1999) . - p. 83–98[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Stratum corneum barrier integrity controls skin homeostasis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Walter P. Smith, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 99-106 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Lactique, Acide L'acide lactique est un acide organique qui joue un rôle dans divers processus biochimiques. Un lactate est un sel de cet acide. Contrairement à ce que peut laisser penser son nom, l'acide lactique n'est pas présent uniquement dans le lait, mais également dans le vin, certains fruits et légumes, et dans les muscles.
L'acide lactique est un acide alpha hydroxylé, sa formule chimique est C3H6O3 et sa structure se reflète dans son nom systématique, l'acide 2-hydroxypropanoïque.
Perte insensible en eau
Rétinoïdes
Vieillissement cutanéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The stratum corneum water barrier controls structural and functional properties of both the epidermis and the dermis. Treatments which chronically disrupt the stratum corneum water barrier can induce changes similar to those seen with ’anti-aging’ treatments such as (-Hydroxy acids (AHAs) and Retin Aâ„¢.
Barrier disruption via daily tape stripping increases epidermal and dermal thickness, superficial and integral skin firmness, and improves skin surface texture. Modest or transitory disruption did not produce such effects. Similar results were observed with topical application of AHAs, retinoids or mild irritants after about 4-6 weeks provided such treatments resulted in prolonged elevation in TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss). Treatments that did not chronically elevate TEWL could also produce positive cosmetic effects, but such effects were in general restricted to the skin surface or epidermis. Irritation, which was observed with some treatments, was not solely responsible for the positive effects observed.DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.196562.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.196562.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26495
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 2 (04/1999) . - p. 99-106[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Brain Activation in Response to a Tactile stimulation : functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI) versus cognitive analysis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Bernard Querleux, Auteur ; G. Gazano, Auteur ; O. Mohen-Domenech, Auteur ; J. Jacquin, Auteur ; Y. Burnod, Auteur ; P. Gaudion, Auteur ; O. Jolivet, Auteur ; J. Bittoun, Auteur ; H. Benali, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 107-118 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Imagerie cérébrale' 'IRM fonctionnelle' 'Cortex somatosensoriel' 'Stimulation tactile' 'Peau humaine' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The aim of this study was to compare fMRI analysis of somatosensory areas activated by passive touch, to cognitive analysis of the psychological profile of human subjects. Methods. The study was carried out on 21 females, after informed consent. Two artificial textures (smooth and rough), and two natural textures (the skin of an operator modified or not by a cosmetic product), were applied on the fingers of the subjects. A period of imagination to be touched was also included in the study. MR images of the somatosensory cortex were acquired on a 1.5T MRI system during the different behavioral conditions. Series of images were first processed to compensate for the inter-frame motions and then activation was assessed with a statistical method based on conditional analysis. After the MRI protocol, each subject was interviewed following a questionnaire from which psychological descriptors were extracted. Results. 1) Activations were quite similar for all textures in the contralateral sensory areas 2) In the ipsilateral sensory areas, activations were more important in response to a stimulation with the skin of an operator than with artificial textures. The activation was even more important after application of a cosmetic product on the skin. 3) Imagination of the tactile stimulation resulted in an activation mostly localized in the ipsilateral cortex. 4) A PLS analysis assessed that 2 psychological descriptors, rationality and sensorial reactivity, were related to an activation in the contralateral cortex, while 2 others, imagination and sensitivity, were related to ipsilateral areas activation. Conclusion. fMRI and cognitive analysis allowed us to map the physical component of the tactile perception in the contralateral cortex. This study also gave rise to a better understanding of the activation in ipsilateral areas, which was found to be mainly related to the subjective component of the stimulation. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.198270.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.198270.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26496
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 2 (04/1999) . - p. 107-118[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : The influence of processing variables on performance of O/W emulsion gels based on polymeric emulsifier (Pemulen ®TR-2NF) Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Simovic, Auteur ; J. Milic-Askrabic, Auteur ; G. Vuleta, Auteur ; S. Ibric, Auteur ; M. Stupar, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 119–125 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsifiants
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Emulsions -- Stabilité
Polymères
RhéologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Pemulens® (BF Goodrich) are hydrophobically-modified copolymers of acrylic acid (Acrylates/C10–C30 alkyl acrylates) that could act both as primary emulsifiers for o/w emulsions and viscosity enhancing agents. The aim of this study was to assess the influence of different processing conditions (mixing equipment, speed and time of agitation) on the aesthetic characteristics, viscosity and physical stability of o/w emulsion gels based on the polymeric emulsifier (Pemulen TR-2 NF). This objective was achieved by applying a two-factor three-level experimental design at two sets: using a laboratory mixer and a disperser. Independent variables were mixing speed and time and dependant variables i.e. responses, were millimetres of oil phase separated after centrifugation at 3500 rpm in a laboratory centrifuge, and viscosity at shear rate 180 l/s. The responses were fitted into a second order model by means of a multiple regression analysis. For the samples prepared on the laboratory mixer it was shown that mixing time and speed produce a statistically important influence on viscosity, but not on physical stability: with increasing mixing speed and time the viscosity linearly increases. If we assume that greater energy input obtained by increasing the mixing speed and time produces a decrease in drop size and polydispersity and better developed gel network, then the optimal processing conditions will be at the point where maximal viscosity is attained. This result was in accordance with the centrifugation test – the best stability appeared when maximal mixing speed and time were applied, although this effect appeared not to be statistically significant. For samples prepared using dispersers no statistically important influence of processing variables on viscosity and physical stability was found. Additionally, emulsion samples prepared using the laboratory mixer appeared homogenous, while in samples prepared using the disperser, undispersed polymer lumps appeared. Based on physical characteristics of the emulsions, it could be concluded that the disperser is an inappropriate tool for processing the emulsions based on Pemulen polymers. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.183572.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.183572.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26497
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 2 (04/1999) . - p. 119–125[article]Exemplaires
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