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Mention de date : 08/1999
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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierInfluence of liposomes on the stability of vitamin A incorporated in polyacrylate hydrogel / I. Arsic in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 4 (08/1999)
Titre : Influence of liposomes on the stability of vitamin A incorporated in polyacrylate hydrogel Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : I. Arsic, Auteur ; G. Vuleta, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 219–225 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants
hydrocolloïdes
LécithineLa phosphatidylcholine est plus connue sous le nom lécithine.
Au sens le plus strict, la lécithine désigne uniquement les phosphatidylcholines c'est-à -dire un lipide formé à partir d'une choline, d'un phosphate, d'un glycérol et de deux acides gras (figure). Dans ce contexte, il serait plus juste de parler des lécithines, car il ne s'agit pas d'une seule molécule mais d'un groupe dont la composition en acide gras varie d'une molécule à l'autre. Ainsi, les lécithines vont adopter diverses couleurs selon leur composition : du jaune, pour la lécithine végétale, au brun, pour la lécithine de poisson.
Le terme de lécithine est aussi utilisé par extension pour désigner l'ensemble des phospholipides extraits du vivant (par exemple le soja), dans la mesure où ils sont majoritairement constitués de phosphatidylcholine.
Liposomes
Vitamine AIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Lecithin has an antioxidative potential that depends directly on the content of phospholipids. Purified lecithin with a higher phospholipid content exerts better antioxidative properties. Furthermore, due to its specific physico-chemical properties, amphiphility in particular, the phospholipid the largest portion of the lecithin lipids, forms enclosed membrane systems (liposomes) in the presence of water. Liposomes encapsulate hydro and liposoluble, pharmacologically and cosmetically active components. The relatively poor stability of vitamin A considerably limits its use in topical preparations. Protection against an oxidation process is the main reason for vitamin A encapsulation in the liposomes made from the purified phospholipid fraction (90% phosphatidyl choline). It increases the vitamin A-palmitate stability against the oxidation process caused by UV radiation. Lecithin used for preparing the liposomes increases vitamin A stability during UV radiation in pure liposome dispersion or liposomes with vitamin A incorporated in polyacrylate gel as a vehicle. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181682.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181682.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26480
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 4 (08/1999) . - p. 219–225[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : The mechanics of fracture of human hair Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 227–239 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Anatomie
Cisaillement (mécanique)
kératinesLa kératine est une protéine, synthétisée et utilisée par de nombreux êtres vivants comme élément de structure, et également l'exemple-type de protéine fibreuse.
La kératine est insoluble, et peut être retrouvée sur l'épiderme de certains animaux, notamment les mammifères, ce qui leur garantit une peau imperméable. Parfois, lors d'une friction trop importante, la kératine se développe à la surface de la peau formant une callosité. Les cellules qui produisent la kératine meurent et sont remplacées continuellement. Les morceaux de kératine qui restent emprisonnés dans les cheveux sont couramment appelés des pellicules.
La molécule de kératine est hélicoïdale et fibreuse, elle s'enroule autour d'autres molécules de kératine pour former des filaments intermédiaires. Ces protéines contiennent un haut taux d'acides aminés à base de soufre, principalement la cystéine, qui forment un pont disulfure entre les molécules, conférant sa rigidité à l'ensemble. La chevelure humaine est constituée à 14 % de cystéine.
Il y a deux principales formes de kératines : l'alpha-kératine, ou α-keratin, présente chez les mammifères notamment, dont l'humain, et la bêta-kératine, ou β-keratin, que l'on retrouve chez les reptiles et les oiseaux. Ces deux types de kératines ne présentent clairement pas d'homologie de séquence.
Chez l'être humain, la kératine est fabriquée par les kératinocytes, cellules se trouvant dans la couche profonde de l'épiderme. Les kératinocytes absorbent la mélanine (pigment fabriqué par les mélanocytes), se colorent et ainsi cette pigmentation de l'épiderme permet de protéger les kératinocytes des rayons ultraviolets du Soleil. (Wikipedia)
Matériaux -- Fatigue
Microscopie électronique
Microscopie électronique à balayage
Microscopie électronique en transmission
Rupture (mécanique)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Premature fracture and splitting of human head hair is cosmetically undesirable and at worse, unsightly. It is often regarded both by the hair’s owner and by others as indicative of hair in poor condition and attracts considerable expenditure on hair toiletry products in sometimes vague attempts to prevent or repair the damage.
This paper defines the mechanical events which underlie the fracture of hairs as they occur on the head and insofar as they satisfy the different fracture morphologies seen under the scanning electron microscope. Factors affecting propensity for fracture are considered. A significant conclusion is that hair ’strength’, as might be assessed by the consumer, has little to do with the tensile mechanical properties of the fibres but that bending and associated longitudinal shear processes are of much greater relevance.DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.186942.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.186942.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26481
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 4 (08/1999) . - p. 227–239[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : A clinical, biometrological and ultrastructural study of xerotic skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : N. Berry, Auteur ; C. Charmeil, Auteur ; C. Goujon, Auteur ; A. Silvy, Auteur ; P. Girard, Auteur ; P. Corcuff, Auteur ; C. Montastier, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 241–252 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cornéomètres
Cornéosomes
Lipides
Perte insensible en eau
Sécheresse cutanéeUne xérose est un dessèchement de la peau.
Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments.Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The purpose of this in vivo study was to investigate, non-invasively on human subjects, xerotic skin and its physiological evolution over time, compared to normal skin. Two groups of 17 female subjects were studied during the winter season, one made up of subjects with normal skin and the other subjects with xerotic skin. A clinical assessment and biometrological measurements of hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were performed on the same area of the external antero-lateral surface of the leg at the start of the study then after three weeks. At the end of the study, the ultrastructure of stratum corneum samples taken from the same area was examined by transmission electron microscopy.
Subjects with xerotic skin were selected according to their impaired cutaneous barrier function, reflected in a TEWL higher than 12 g/m Compared to normal subjects, they presented a hydration level more than 25% lower. After an interval of 21 days, no significant change in the hydration level or clinical appearance of the xerotic skin was observed. In contrast, the TEWL had decreased significantly (D − D =−3.6 g/m /h; p < 0.001) but still stayed higher than normal values. Changes in the ultrastructure of the stratum corneum were also observed in the subjects with xerotic skin. Unlike normal skin, corneosomes could be detected right up to the surface layers, accompanied by intercellular lipids in an amorphous form. These observations confirm the important roles played by both corneosomes and lipid organization in the cohesion/desquamation processes.
In the subjects with normal skin, the hydration level and barrier function remained unchanged during the three week study but an onset of skin dryness was observed, the mean clinical score increasing by +1.3 (p = 0.01). These results confirm that there is no direct relationship between TEWL and the severity of skin dryness. It appears that a clinical evaluation is more sensitive than biometrological measurement for describing early state of cutaneous dryness. This study highlights the importance of a regular cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical treatment during the winter to prevent xerosis apparition on legs.DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.196570.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.196570.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26482
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 4 (08/1999) . - p. 241–252[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Lipoprotein creams : utilization of multifunctional ingredients for the preparation of cosmetic emulsions with excellent skin compatibility Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Förster, Auteur ; Marianne Waldmann-Laue, Auteur ; Wolfgang Both, Auteur ; Claudia Jassoy, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 253–264 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Lipoproteines
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
RhéologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Lipoproteins are plant-derived surface-active biopolymers, which act as emulsifying as well as viscosity-enhancing agents in oil-in-water emulsions. Depending on the degree of hydrolization, lipoproteins are dispersible or even soluble in water. In the presence of low to medium polar oils, lipoproteins are adsorbed and align at the oil-water interface, whereas in mixtures with high polar oils the lipoproteins are repelled from the oil-water interface. The water-dispersible lipoproteins show higher interfacial activity than the hydrolysates.
Lipoproteins bear a negative electric charge in aqueous dispersions at pH 6.5, which is probably the reason for the stabilization of oil droplets against coalescence. Lipoprotein creams were characterized in terms of particle size, rheology, and emulsion stability against sedimentation, which was evaluated by a near-infrared sedimentometer.
After topical application, emulsion stability breaks down and an emulsion film is formed on the skin surface. Lipoprotein creams cause a distinct increase in skin pliability and skin moisture and show excellent skin compatibility. In a home use test the panelists appreciated the cosmetic and caring properties of the lipoprotein cream.DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.201639.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.201639.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26483
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 4 (08/1999) . - p. 253–264[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Determination of alpha-Hydroxy acids in cosmetic products by hugh-performance liquid chromatography with a narrow-bore column Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : I. Nicoletti, Auteur ; C. Corradini, Auteur ; E. Cogliandro, Auteur ; A. Cavazza, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 265–274 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acide alpha-hydroxylé
Analyse quantitative (chimie)
Chimie analytique
Chromatographie en phase liquide à hautes performances
Séparation (technologie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This paper reports the results of a study carried out to develop a simple, rapid and sensitive method for the separation, identification and quantitative measurement of α-hydroxy acids in commercial cosmetics using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). This method is successfully applied to the simultaneous identification and quantitative determination of glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric and citric acids employing a reversed phase narrow-bore column under isocratic condition and UV detection. The method is validated by determining the precision of replicate analyses and accuracy by analyzing samples with and without adding know amount of the alpha-hydroxy acids. The procedure is suitable for routine analyses of commercial cosmetics. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.196577.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.196577.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26484
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 4 (08/1999) . - p. 265–274[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : The effects of Areca catechu L extract on anti-inflammation and anti-melanogenesis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kun-Kook Lee, Auteur ; Jung-Do Choi, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 275–284 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Piégeage des radicaux libres' Hyaluronidase Tyrosinase 'Anti-mélanogénèse' Antioxydants 'Palmier à bétel' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Ethanolic extract (CC-516) from Areca catechu L was prepared and its various biological activities were evaluated, CC-516 showed potent anti-oxidative, free radical scavenging, and anti-hyaluronidase activity. Anti-oxidative effect of CC-516 (IC : 45.4 μg/ml) was lower than butylated hydroxytoluene (IC : 5μg ml), but similar to tocopherol and higher than ascorbic acid. Especially, CC-516 exhibited relatively high free radical scavenging activity (IC : 10.2 μg/ml) compared to control. CC-516 inhibited effectively hyaluronidase activity (IC: : 416 μg/ml), showed inhibition in vivo on delayed hypersensitivity as well as croton-oil induced ear edema in mice when it was topically applied. These results strongly suggest that CC-516 may reduce immunoregulatory/inflammatory skin trouble. Also, from the results, we have elucidated that CC-516 showed anti-allergic and anti-cytotoxicity activity. The whitening effect of CC-516 shown by the inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase activity with IC of 0.48 mg/ml and of melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cells. This study indicates that CC-516 is effective on anti-inflammatory/anti-melanogenesis, and can be used as a new agent for cosmetics. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.196590.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.196590.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26485
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 4 (08/1999) . - p. 275–284[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : The effects of Areca Catechu L extract on anti-aging Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kun-Kook Lee, Auteur ; Jung-Do Choi, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 285–295 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygièneTags : Elastase 'Anti-âge' 'Synthèse du collagène' 'Palmier à bétel' Inhibition Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The anti-aging effects of Areca catechu L extract (CC-516) on skin were investigate both in vitro and in vivo. The CC-516 has a high proportion of proline (13%) of free amino acid content. The inhibitory effect of CC-516 on the elastase exhibited 37 to 90% inhibition by 10 to 250 μg/ml concentration ; the IC values with 40.8 μg/ml for porcine pancreatic elastase (PPE) and 48.1 μg/ml for human leukocyte elastase (HLE), respectively. One of the effects of elastase is that it is known to reduce the number of elastin fibers at the level of the enzyme deposition. The number of elastin fibers was increased when we drift from the deposit number of elastase with 100 mg/ml of CC-516. CC-516 showed protection of elastic fiber against degradation by the enzyme in an ex vivo assay. The CC-516 increased proliferation of human fibroblast cell by 85% at 10 concentration, compared with control, whereas the increase by ascorbic acid was 50%. The collagen synthesis was increased by 40% at 10% concentration of CC-516. The treatment with CC-516 improved skin hydration, the skin elasticity, and skin wrinkles. From this study, we suggest that CC-516 can be used as a new anti-aging component for cosmetics. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.196563.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.196563.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26486
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 4 (08/1999) . - p. 285–295[article]Exemplaires
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