Correlation between sensory and instrumental characterization of developed sunscreens containing grape seed extract and a commercial product / Liudmila Yarovaya in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022) . - p. 569-587 Titre : Correlation between sensory and instrumental characterization of developed sunscreens containing grape seed extract and a commercial product Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Liudmila Yarovaya, Auteur ; Neti Waranuch, Auteur ; Wudtichai Wisuitiprot, Auteur ; Watcharee Khunkitti, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 569-587 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Caractérisation Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pépins de raisins Produits antisolaires Raisin et constituants Rhéologie Statistiques Texture -- Analyse Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : In the development of cosmetic products, sensory evaluation is an important step in determining consumer acceptance before it is released on a market but is often time-consuming and costly. However, correlating sensory characteristics with instrumental parameters using multivariate techniques is a potential way to facilitate the development of cosmetic products. - Methods : Sunscreen formulations varied in the content of grape seed extract (GSE) and ultraviolet (UV) filters, and benchmark products were characterized using sensory descriptive analysis and instrumental analysis. Principal Component Analysis (PCA) was applied to the panel's performance data to study how well the panelists performed compared to each other and to find an association between rheological and textural instrumental parameters of cream samples. Further, applying Partial Least Squares (PLS) regression analysis, the association between sensory attributes and instrumental parameters was analyzed. In addition, a preference for the sensory properties of the studied sunscreen products that are important for consumers living in Southeast Asia was assessed by PLS. - Results : In this study, both the sensory and instrumental properties of all tested formulations were described well by PCA. The practicality of PLS was confirmed by an established correlation between sensory attributes from the categories of appearance (glossiness), pick-up (integrity of shape, firmness, glossiness, stringiness), and after-feel (glossiness, spreadability, stickiness) with both rheological and textural parameters. Although the instrumental analysis could not completely replace sensory evaluation, a described method applying PLS can be used as an additional cost-effective and time-saving method during the development of cosmetic products. Moreover, PLS revealed that sunscreens with a light texture and glossy appearance providing smooth skin after-feel are likely to be preferred over the thicker formulations having a residual color appearance in Southeast Asia. - Conclusion : Until a universal model is created, the cosmetics developers and companies can apply a described method of determining sensory properties from the instrumental parameters of their own products. Future studies will be worth exploiting the applicability of the PLS regression model on instrumental datasets predicting sensory characteristics of other sunscreen products. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Chemicals - Preparation of grape seed extract - Preparation of sunscreen formulations - Sensory evaluation - Instrumental determinations - Textural analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Sensory analysis - Instrumental profiling - Partial least squares (PLS) regression analysis - Table 1 : Sunscreen formulations - Table 2 : Definitions of attributes used for sensory evaluation - Table 3 : Rheological parameters of cream samples derived through controlled oscillatory strain sweep and shear flow analysis - Table 4 : Textural parameters of cream samples - Table 5 : Partial Least Square regression model calibration and cross-validation for predicted and reference responses DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12807 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1unxmlYIYtQF3kJhZJge7WgK8qDm6fJIM/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38154 [article]

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Influence of wall slip, thixotropy and lubrication regime on the instrumental sensory evaluation of topical formulations / Febin Cyriac in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 271-288 Titre : Influence of wall slip, thixotropy and lubrication regime on the instrumental sensory evaluation of topical formulations Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Febin Cyriac, Auteur ; Tee Xin Yi, Auteur ; Pui Shan Chow, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 271-288 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Caractérisation Cosmétiques -- Analyse Emulsions -- Stabilité Formulation (Génie chimique) Rhéologie Statistiques Texture -- Analyse Thixotropie Toucher Viscoélasticité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Drawing parallels from rheotribology can be used to develop a robust instrumental protocol for non-subjective characterization, product development and design of topical dosage forms with desired sensory attributes. However, instrumental characterization of cosmetic products can be influenced by the measurement protocol, thixotropy, flow anomalies like shear banding or wall slip and nature of the film formed on the skin surface. In this study, we evaluated the influence of above parameters on the instrumental sensory evaluation of 12 topical formulations of different galenic forms. - Methods : Oscillatory strain sweep measurements (SAOS and LAOS) were performed to investigate the influence of frequency and wall slip on the material parameters. The textural attributes at different consumer touchpoints were evaluated by accounting time-dependent simulation of viscoelastic flow. Further, the influence of film thickness and sample drying on the tactile properties of the topical formulations were studied on a non-biological skin model using a sliding probe tribometer. - Results : The study shows that the flow properties of the semi-solid formulations depend on the timescale of the problem. A few formulations exhibited wall slip to varying degrees in the linear viscoelastic regime where the behaviour was found not to be characteristic of a particular topical dosage form. The material functions obtained from the Lissajous plots suggest that the non-linear flow behaviour of different galenic forms is least influenced by the boundary conditions imposed by the measurement geometry. The results were statistically analysed using principal component analysis where the attributes used for discriminating skin creams during pick up and rub out are found to be closely associated with non-linear rheology. The friction coefficient exhibited speed dependence where it formed different parametric group with rheological data depending on the lubrication regime. - Conclusion : The study highlights that correlations are possible amongst rheological, tribological and instrumental textural analysis data, which can act an impetus for the development of models to predict attributes that drive perception at different consumer touchpoints. However, the choice of instrumental settings, anomalies associated with rheological measurements and friction dependence on a number of parameters can influence the model prediction. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Methods - Tribological characterization - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Texture analysis - Rheological characterization - Friction measurements - Table 1 : Topical formulations employed in the study - Table 2 : Influence of measurement geometry and gap on oscillatory strain measurements. The result is the average obtained from two different measurements and the standard deviation is also shown DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12773 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/153UJUH9Ww_mnWp-W0LyLrvBPyHmMKB8X/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38130 [article]

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Texture des nontissés sous charge / Jean-Yves Drean in L'INDUSTRIE TEXTILE, N° 1298 (05/1998)

[article]  inL'INDUSTRIE TEXTILE > N° 1298 (05/1998) . - p. 43-45 Titre : Texture des nontissés sous charge : Un nouveau capteur Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jean-Yves Drean, Auteur Année de publication : 1998 Article en page(s) : p. 43-45 Langues : Français (fre) Catégories : Analyse d'image L'analyse d'image est la reconnaissance des éléments contenus dans l'image. Il ne faut pas confondre analyse (décomposition en éléments) et traitement (action sur les composantes) de l'image. Capteurs optiques Masse surfacique Mesure Nontissés Texture -- Analyse Index. décimale : 677.6 Tissus obtenus par des procédés spéciaux, quelle que soit leur composition : jacquard, feutres tissés et non tissés, tapisseries, tissus ajourés Résumé : Le moyen le mieux adapté pour mesurer les variations de masse surfacique des nontissés est l'absorption d'énergie et, plus précisément, d'énergie lumineuse. Note de contenu : - Validation du capteur : Source de lumière - Paramètres de mesure - Calcul de la masse surfacique - Dispositif de mesure : Sur le plan mécanique - Sur le plan logiciel - Analyse d'image Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38891 [article]

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