Citrate esters in sunscreen formulations / Teresa Berninger in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 6 (06/2021)

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 6 (06/2021) . - p. 27-30 Titre : Citrate esters in sunscreen formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Teresa Berninger, Auteur ; Carolin Stern, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur ; Ulrich Issberner, Auteur ; Jochen Giesinger, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 27-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emollients Esters de citrate Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Jungbunzlauer reveal the efficacy of their citrate ester emollients in providing benefits for sun care product development. In sunscreen formulations, several components act synergistically to provide effective protection to the exposed skin. Alongside the UV filters themselves, emollients are particularly relevant to both effectiveness and consumer acceptance of the product. This is due to their influence on the solubility of solid organic UV filters, dispersibility of inorganic UV filters and skin feel of sunscreen products. Note de contenu : - Formulating sunscreens with organic UV filters - Solubility and efficient use of organic UV filters - Table 1 : Overview of properties of citrate esters - Table 2 : Maximum solubility of UV filters BEMT, EHT and DHHB in different solvents - Table 3 : Maximul solubility and regulatory limit of different UV filters in benchmark system (15% dibutyl adipate + 5% EHS) versus alternative system (15% tributyl citrate + 5% EHS). Usage rate refers to UV filter combination used to determine performance in silico. Solubility was calculated according to the following formula : amount solvent a* filter solubility in solvent A/100-filter solubility in solvent A) + amount solvent B* filter solubility in solvent B/(100-filter solublity in solvent B) - Table 4 : Composition of test formulations used for SPF and UVA-PF in vitro determination and sensory profiling - Table 5 : Composition of example sunscreen formulation with inorganic filters and triethyl citrate - Fig. 1 : Comparison of extinction between benchmark system and alternative system. An increased extinction in the UVB range is observed in the alternative system with higher EHT content - Fig. 2 : SPF and UVA-PF determined in vitro in different test formulations - Fig. 3 : Sensory profiling of test formulations with different emollients (Tributyl Citrate vs. Triethyl Citrate vs. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate). Values are means of n = 8 panelists. Asterices denote attributes which were evaluated as differing significantly between test formulations - Fig. 4 : Dispersibility of inorganic UV filters in different emollients. Scale bars denote 100 μm - Fig. 5 : Sensory profiling of sunscreen with Triethyl Citrate compared to commercially available natural-certified benchmarks. Values are means of n = 10 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36117 [article]

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