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Titre : Dermal delivery system of the future : Peptides steer efficacy to the point Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sandra Christian, Auteur ; Volker Krug, Auteur ; Alfons Hidalgo, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 8-14 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides
Biomolécules actives
Cosmétiques -- Administration par voie cutanée
Dermo-cosmétologie
Encapsulation
Franz, Cellules de
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
PeptidesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Modern active based cosmetics are characterized by increasing demands on their performance. Therefore, the efficacy of cosmetic active ingredients plays a key role in the development of new technologies. Penetration and the release of the active ingredients in the skin are important parameters in this context. These challenges can already be met successfully with the help of dermal delivery systems, in which the active ingredients are usually encapsulated. The X50 Capsulesâ„¢ go one step further. By means of specific steering peptides on the capsule surface, it is possible to selectively transport the respective active ingredient to certain cells in the skin and thus directly to its corresponding site of action. The active ingredient is released inside the cell so that its full potential is developed where it is needed. The biocompatible and biodegradable capsule also prevents interactions between the active ingredient and the product formulation and protects the active from functional degradation on its way from the skin surface to its specific site of action in the cell. This selective and efficient approach can also prevent unspecific cell reactions as side effects and reduce dosages cost-effectively. Various in vitro and in vivo studies confirm the efficacy of this pioneering delivery system, which can revolutionize the efficiency of cosmetic active ingredients in a unique way. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Effect and efficacy - a small but crucial difference - Active availability selectively as far as the cell level
- METHODS AND RESULTS : Proven increase of efficacy through improved penetration and specific cell bindings - One technology, many actives - X50 capsules as universal delivery system
- Table 1 : Overview of the INFINITEC X50 capsules with various active ingredients, cell selectivity and cosmetic application
- Fig. 1 : Schematic description of the X50 capsule structure and function as well as the "Schlüssel-Schloss-Prinzip" (lock and key principle)
- Fig. 2 : Selective active delivery as far as the inside of the target cell
- Fig. 3 : In vitro skin penetration studies of X50 capsules with and without steering peptides (Franz cell, OECD 428 guideline, fluorescence analysis)
- Fig. 4 : Confocal microscope images of skin tissue cross-sections taken in the same time frame (in vitro skin penetration studies, Franz cell, fluorescent labelling of the X50 capsules). X50 capsules without steering peptides and X50 capsules with steering peptides
- Fig. 5 : Cell selectivity of the X50 capsules with steering peptides for fibroblasts (in vitro fluorescence labelling)
- Fig. 6 : Increased efficacy due to X50 capsules with steering peptides (fibroblast cultures ; quantitative measurement of collagen type I snthesis via ELISA assay)
- Fig. 7 : Selected test results of the in vivo study on the reduction of expression lines (crow's feet). Before and after four weeks of application of the test product and corresponding fringe projectionsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/18CcLCbGOZ3E1VKBzx7ts8uZVUDdOSEoJ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34222
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 6 (06/2020) . - p. 8-14[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21762 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 21814 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible In vitro diffusion of plant phenolics through the skin: A review update / Gislà ine C. Silva in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)
[article]
Titre : In vitro diffusion of plant phenolics through the skin: A review update Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gislà ine C. Silva, Auteur ; Rodney A. F. Rodrigues, Auteur ; Carla B. G. Bottoli, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 239-261 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée
Chimie analytique
Cosmétiques -- Administration par voie cutanée
Dermo-cosmétologie
Diffusion (physique)
Encapsulation
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
PhénolsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Excessive skin exposure to deleterious environmental variables results in inflammation as well as molecular and cellular impairments that compromise its functionality, aesthetic qualities, and overall well-being. The implementation of topical administration of antioxidants and other compounds as a method for preventing or reversing damage is a rational approach. Numerous phenolic compounds derived from plants have demonstrated capabilities such as scavenging free radicals and promoting tissue healing. However, the primary obstacle lies in effectively delivering these compounds to the specific place on the skin, and accurately forecasting their diffusion through the skin can assist in determining the most effective tactics. Hence, this article provides a comprehensive analysis of recent literature pertaining to the in vitro skin diffusion characteristics of plant phenolics. The aim is to gain a deeper understanding of their behaviour when present in various forms such as solutions, suspensions, and formulations.
- Method : The data on plant extracts and isolated plant phenolic compounds in vitro skin diffusion assays published over the last six years were compiled and discussed.
- Results : Even though the gold standard Franz diffusion cell is the most commonly used in the assessment of in vitro plant phenolic skin diffusion profiles, a plethora of skin models and assay conditions are reported for a variety of compounds and extracts in different vehicles.
- Conclusion : The presence of numerous models and vehicles poses a challenge in creating correlations among the existing data on plant phenolic compounds. However, it is possible to draw some general conclusions regarding molecular, vehicle, and skin characteristics based on the gathered information.Note de contenu : - PLANT PHENOLICS PERMEATION PROFILE : Isolated compounds - Phenolic-rich plant extracts
- Table 1 : Micro- and nano-encapsulated plant-derived phenolic compounds diffusion assays and results
- Table 2 : Plant-derived phenolic compounds physical–chemical features and diffused amountsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12927 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14y2jjLMSwGzxzO5wsSiAk_Lptn_B0n7S/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40910
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 239-261[article]