Dermal delivery system of the future / Sandra Christian in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 6 (06/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 6 (06/2020) . - p. 8-14 Titre : Dermal delivery system of the future : Peptides steer efficacy to the point Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sandra Christian, Auteur ; Volker Krug, Auteur ; Alfons Hidalgo, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 8-14 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques -- Administration par voie cutanée Dermo-cosmétologie Encapsulation Franz, Cellules de Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peptides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Modern active based cosmetics are characterized by increasing demands on their performance. Therefore, the efficacy of cosmetic active ingredients plays a key role in the development of new technologies. Penetration and the release of the active ingredients in the skin are important parameters in this context. These challenges can already be met successfully with the help of dermal delivery systems, in which the active ingredients are usually encapsulated. The X50 Capsulesâ„¢ go one step further. By means of specific steering peptides on the capsule surface, it is possible to selectively transport the respective active ingredient to certain cells in the skin and thus directly to its corresponding site of action. The active ingredient is released inside the cell so that its full potential is developed where it is needed. The biocompatible and biodegradable capsule also prevents interactions between the active ingredient and the product formulation and protects the active from functional degradation on its way from the skin surface to its specific site of action in the cell. This selective and efficient approach can also prevent unspecific cell reactions as side effects and reduce dosages cost-effectively. Various in vitro and in vivo studies confirm the efficacy of this pioneering delivery system, which can revolutionize the efficiency of cosmetic active ingredients in a unique way. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Effect and efficacy - a small but crucial difference - Active availability selectively as far as the cell level - METHODS AND RESULTS : Proven increase of efficacy through improved penetration and specific cell bindings - One technology, many actives - X50 capsules as universal delivery system - Table 1 : Overview of the INFINITEC X50 capsules with various active ingredients, cell selectivity and cosmetic application - Fig. 1 : Schematic description of the X50 capsule structure and function as well as the "Schlüssel-Schloss-Prinzip" (lock and key principle) - Fig. 2 : Selective active delivery as far as the inside of the target cell - Fig. 3 : In vitro skin penetration studies of X50 capsules with and without steering peptides (Franz cell, OECD 428 guideline, fluorescence analysis) - Fig. 4 : Confocal microscope images of skin tissue cross-sections taken in the same time frame (in vitro skin penetration studies, Franz cell, fluorescent labelling of the X50 capsules). X50 capsules without steering peptides and X50 capsules with steering peptides - Fig. 5 : Cell selectivity of the X50 capsules with steering peptides for fibroblasts (in vitro fluorescence labelling) - Fig. 6 : Increased efficacy due to X50 capsules with steering peptides (fibroblast cultures ; quantitative measurement of collagen type I snthesis via ELISA assay) - Fig. 7 : Selected test results of the in vivo study on the reduction of expression lines (crow's feet). Before and after four weeks of application of the test product and corresponding fringe projections En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/18CcLCbGOZ3E1VKBzx7ts8uZVUDdOSEoJ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34222 [article]

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In vitro diffusion of plant phenolics through the skin: A review update / Gislàine C. Silva in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 239-261 Titre : In vitro diffusion of plant phenolics through the skin: A review update Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gislàine C. Silva, Auteur ; Rodney A. F. Rodrigues, Auteur ; Carla B. G. Bottoli, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 239-261 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Chimie analytique Cosmétiques -- Administration par voie cutanée Dermo-cosmétologie Diffusion (physique) Encapsulation Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Phénols Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Excessive skin exposure to deleterious environmental variables results in inflammation as well as molecular and cellular impairments that compromise its functionality, aesthetic qualities, and overall well-being. The implementation of topical administration of antioxidants and other compounds as a method for preventing or reversing damage is a rational approach. Numerous phenolic compounds derived from plants have demonstrated capabilities such as scavenging free radicals and promoting tissue healing. However, the primary obstacle lies in effectively delivering these compounds to the specific place on the skin, and accurately forecasting their diffusion through the skin can assist in determining the most effective tactics. Hence, this article provides a comprehensive analysis of recent literature pertaining to the in vitro skin diffusion characteristics of plant phenolics. The aim is to gain a deeper understanding of their behaviour when present in various forms such as solutions, suspensions, and formulations. - Method : The data on plant extracts and isolated plant phenolic compounds in vitro skin diffusion assays published over the last six years were compiled and discussed. - Results : Even though the gold standard Franz diffusion cell is the most commonly used in the assessment of in vitro plant phenolic skin diffusion profiles, a plethora of skin models and assay conditions are reported for a variety of compounds and extracts in different vehicles. - Conclusion : The presence of numerous models and vehicles poses a challenge in creating correlations among the existing data on plant phenolic compounds. However, it is possible to draw some general conclusions regarding molecular, vehicle, and skin characteristics based on the gathered information. Note de contenu : - PLANT PHENOLICS PERMEATION PROFILE : Isolated compounds - Phenolic-rich plant extracts - Table 1 : Micro- and nano-encapsulated plant-derived phenolic compounds diffusion assays and results - Table 2 : Plant-derived phenolic compounds physical–chemical features and diffused amounts DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12927 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14y2jjLMSwGzxzO5wsSiAk_Lptn_B0n7S/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40910 [article]

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Investigation of piroctone olamine delivery to the skin from single, binary and ternary solvent systems / Chun Fung Tang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024) . - p. 357-367 Titre : Investigation of piroctone olamine delivery to the skin from single, binary and ternary solvent systems Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Chun Fung Tang, Auteur ; Paul D. A. Pudney, Auteur ; Majella E. Lane, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 357-367 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antipelliculaires Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Administration par voie cutanée Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Pellicules (dermatologie) Perméation Piroctone olamine Produits capillaires solvants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Disruption of the protective stratum corneum barrier increases the skin's vulnerability to microorganisms and facilitates conditions such as dandruff. Dandruff is a disorder of the scalp that causes increased scaling of the SC and is associated with Malassezia fungus. Consequently, many anti-dandruff commercial products use anti-fungal active ingredients such as piroctone olamine also known as Octopirox (OPX). OPX is an active ingredient used in a number of topical preparations for the management of dandruff. The characterization of the physicochemical properties of OPX was previously reported. The aim of the present work was to investigate a range of solvent systems for their effects on OPX interaction with human skin. - METHODS : The solvents used in this study were propylene glycol (PG), diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or Transcutol® (TC), PG monolaurate (PGML), isopropyl myristate (IPM), caprylic/capric triglyceride or Labrafacâ„¢ Lipophile WL 1349 (LAB), PG caprylate or Capryol® 90 (CAP), isostearyl isostearate (ISIS) and Plurol® Oleique CC 497 (PIOI). The single solvent systems evaluated were PG, TC, PGML, IPM, ISIS and CAP. For the binary solvent systems, PG and TC were examined. Ternary solvent systems consisted of: PG, TC and LAB; PG, PGML and LAB; and PG, TC and IPM. The concentration of OPX used was 1% (w/v). Heat-separated human epidermis was used for 24 h permeation experiments performed under finite dose conditions; mass balance studies were also conducted. - RESULTS : For the six single solvents examined no permeation was evident. Skin permeation of OPX was observed for binary and ternary solvent systems. The highest permeation for all PG:TC binary solvent system ratios tested was from the PG:TC (75:25) system. For the ternary solvent systems investigated, highest cumulative permeation of OPX was observed for PG:PGML:LAB (60:30:10). Considering all systems, PG:TC (75:25) delivered the greatest amount of OPX through the skin. Although OPX is deposited in the skin following the application of neat solvents, higher skin retention values were generally observed for binary and ternary systems. - CONCLUSION : To our knowledge, this is the first study to examine the permeation behaviour of OPX for a range of single, binary and ternary solvent systems. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Solubility studies and solubility parameter calculation - In vitro permeation experiments - Mass balance studies - High-performance liquid chromatography analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Solubility parameter of single, binary and ternary solvent systems - Single solvent systems - Binary solvent systems - Ternary solvent systems DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12935 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wgn22cWyxcqjXAg9dHLP1fLp_udsevx_/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41338 [article]

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