[article]
| Titre : |
Polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene tocopheryl ethers: a series of novel amphiphiles from tocopherol for functional cosmetics |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Young-Dae Kim, Auteur ; Bong Rae Cho, Auteur ; Kyoung-Chan Park, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2001 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 269-276 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Tags : |
'Polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene tocopheryl ether' Amphiphiles 'Functional cosmetics' Anti-oxidant Melanin Erythema Emulsion Vesicle 'Liquid crystal' |
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
A series of novel non-ionic compounds, polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene tocopheryl ethers [POP(n)-POE(m)TEs], was synthesized by a two-step alkoxylation reaction with ethylene oxide and propylene oxide of tocopherol. The resulting molecules have been demonstrated to have potential use in functional cosmetics. Both 1H-NMR and FT-IR as well as elemental analysis methods were used to characterize the structure. By virtue of an in-vitro peroxide value study using evening primrose oil, some POP(n)-POE(m)TEs demonstrated better anti-oxidative activity than DL- α-tocopherol. In-vivo human skin protection tests showed that pre- and post-application of some POP(n)-POE(m)TEs significantly decreased the melanin pigment formation and erythema development on UVB-irradiated human skin thus indicating that some POP(n)-POE(m)TEs have significant potential for in-vivo anti-oxidative activity and/or anti-inflammation effects. Systematic safety studies demonstrate that POP(n)-POE(m)TEs to be safe for use in personal care applications. The test results of technological and practical applications for functional cosmetics showed that some POP(n)-POE(m)TEs make stable emulsion as well as liquid crystal bilayer vesicles. Some POP-n)-POE(m)TEs were shown to make very fine emulsions with long-term stability at 40°C even in very low viscosity emulsions. The formation of liquid crystals in low viscosity emulsions was confirmed by polarized light microscopy. Transmission electron microscopy (TEM) for uranyl acetate stained solutions of POP(n)-POE(m)TEs confirmed the property of vesicle formation. These results indicate that POP(n)-POE(m)TEs offer an alternative approach in improving product property versus conventional cosmetic surfactants in terms of safety, stability, and chemical and biological effect for functional cosmetics. |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10688 |
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 4 (10-11-12/2001) . - p. 269-276
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