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The age-dependent changes in skin condition in african americans, asian indians, caucasians, east asians, and latinos / Greg. G. Hillebrand in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 4 (10-11-12/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 4 (10-11-12/2001) . - p. 259-266 Titre : The age-dependent changes in skin condition in african americans, asian indians, caucasians, east asians, and latinos Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Greg. G. Hillebrand, Auteur ; Mark. J. Levine, Auteur ; K. Miyamoto, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 259-266 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Skin  'Racial  differences'  Aging  Imaging  Epidemiology Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Understanding the similarities and differences in skin characteristics as a function of age, race and geography should aid in the development of skin care products that better meet consumers’ skin care needs around the world. Several studies have compared various racial groups for specific skin parameters. This study is unique for its inclusion of live different racial/ethnic groups (African American, East Asian, Caucasian, Indian Asian, and Latino), its large base size (3160 subjects), its wide age range (10-70 years), and the breadth of skin parameters measured (both visible features and biophysical characteristics). Using the same image collection system in all geographies [London, Los Angeles, Rome, Akita (Japan)], high-resolution digital images of the subjects’ faces were collected under controlled conditions and computer analyzed to objectively quantify the amount of facial skin wrinkling, hyperpigmentation and pores. Biophysical skin parameters measured included: skin color (L*a*b) on the forehead and upper inner arm; sebum secretion rate on the forehead stratum corneum capacitance on the cheek, forearm and calf; skin surface pH on the cheek, forearm, and calf and surface flakes on the calf. In addition, all subjects completed a structured questionnaire to gather information on host and environmental factors such as body weight, smoking history, menopausal status, etc. Descriptive statistical analysis of the objectively measured skin parameters as well as an analysis of the host and environmental factors significantly associated with these skin parameters are presented. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10687 [article]

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Polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene tocopheryl ethers: a series of novel amphiphiles from tocopherol for functional cosmetics / Young-Dae Kim in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 4 (10-11-12/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 4 (10-11-12/2001) . - p. 269-276 Titre : Polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene tocopheryl ethers: a series of novel amphiphiles from tocopherol for functional cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Young-Dae Kim, Auteur ; Bong Rae Cho, Auteur ; Kyoung-Chan Park, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 269-276 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene  tocopheryl  ether'  Amphiphiles  'Functional  cosmetics'  Anti-oxidant  Melanin  Erythema  Emulsion  Vesicle  'Liquid  crystal' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A series of novel non-ionic compounds, polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene tocopheryl ethers [POP(n)-POE(m)TEs], was synthesized by a two-step alkoxylation reaction with ethylene oxide and propylene oxide of tocopherol. The resulting molecules have been demonstrated to have potential use in functional cosmetics. Both 1H-NMR and FT-IR as well as elemental analysis methods were used to characterize the structure. By virtue of an in-vitro peroxide value study using evening primrose oil, some POP(n)-POE(m)TEs demonstrated better anti-oxidative activity than DL- α-tocopherol. In-vivo human skin protection tests showed that pre- and post-application of some POP(n)-POE(m)TEs significantly decreased the melanin pigment formation and erythema development on UVB-irradiated human skin thus indicating that some POP(n)-POE(m)TEs have significant potential for in-vivo anti-oxidative activity and/or anti-inflammation effects. Systematic safety studies demonstrate that POP(n)-POE(m)TEs to be safe for use in personal care applications. The test results of technological and practical applications for functional cosmetics showed that some POP(n)-POE(m)TEs make stable emulsion as well as liquid crystal bilayer vesicles. Some POP-n)-POE(m)TEs were shown to make very fine emulsions with long-term stability at 40°C even in very low viscosity emulsions. The formation of liquid crystals in low viscosity emulsions was confirmed by polarized light microscopy. Transmission electron microscopy (TEM) for uranyl acetate stained solutions of POP(n)-POE(m)TEs confirmed the property of vesicle formation. These results indicate that POP(n)-POE(m)TEs offer an alternative approach in improving product property versus conventional cosmetic surfactants in terms of safety, stability, and chemical and biological effect for functional cosmetics. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10688 [article]

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Hair Care : Benefit of Coconut Oil Relavance to Hair Damage Part III / R. B Mohile in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 4 (10-11-12/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 4 (10-11-12/2001) . - p. 277-280 Titre : Hair Care : Benefit of Coconut Oil Relavance to Hair Damage Part III Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : R. B Mohile, Auteur ; Aarti S. Rele, Auteur ; Yash K. Kamath, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 277-280 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Coconut  oil'  oil  formulations'  Additives  Penetration  'Tensile  strengths' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Coconut oil is used as a pre-wash conditioner as well as post-wash hair dressing in different parts of the world. Beneficial effects of coconut oil on prevention of combing damage on different types of hair has been established already by protein loss and water retention. In-vivo, half-head tests in salon confirmed these beneficial effects. Beneficial effects were also observed on uv treated, chemically (bleached)and thermally (treated with boiling water) damaged hair. The logical extension of that was to study why it happens. The study done using instruments such as Microfluorimetry and Time of Flight Secondary Ion Mass Spectroscopy revealed that coconut oil penetrates thru' the hair fiber, upto cortex whereas mineral oil does not penetrate at all. This was the mechanism of protecting hair fiber from adverse treatments. In this work, we have made an attempt to determine the tensile mechanical properties of hair treated with different hair oil formulations. The study has been conducted with two sets of samples collected from individuals who use coconut oil regularly (users) and those who did not use it at all (non-users). We have used pure coconut oil, mineral oil and various formulations of both thereof to determine the efficacy in improving hair strength. A statistically significant increase in the hair strength has been observed in the hair samples treated with coconut oil. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10696 [article]

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Study of Causal Factors of Dark Circles Around the Eyes / Masayuki Matsumoto in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 4 (10-11-12/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 4 (10-11-12/2001) . - p. 281-286 Titre : Study of Causal Factors of Dark Circles Around the Eyes Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Masayuki Matsumoto, Auteur ; Noriko Kobayashi, Auteur ; Osamu Hoshina, Auteur ; Shoji Hayashi, Auteur ; Seiichi Arai, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 281-286 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Dark  circles'  Eyelid  'Internal  canthus'  'Blood  flow'  'Laser  Doppler  flowmeter'  'Skin  color'  lightness  (L*)'  surface  temperature' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The characteristics of the dark circles were investigated using a laser Doppler flowmeter (LDF) and a chromameter. Regarding the blood flow, we found that the areas surrounding the internal canthus where the dark circles are frequently observed had larger blood mass and slower blood flow velocity compared to the other regions. Furthermore, this tendency is particularly evident in the superficial layers of the skin, and also in the lower part and the lateral part of the internal canthus. Our results suggest that naturally the blood flow in the areas surrounding the internal canthus tends to stagnate easily. Concerning the skin color, we found that the areas around the internal canthus tend to appear, particularly the skin color under the internal canthus had a low lightness (L*) value. There was a significant correlation between the differences in the blood mass (ΔMass) and the differences in lightness (ΔL*) in the lower part of the internal canthus and its adjacent regions. Furtheremore, compared to the person with less prominent dark circles, the person with prominent circles had larger differences between the lower part of the internal canthus and its adjacent regions in terms of the blood mass as well as the lightness. From our results, we concluded that retention of blood in the surface of the skin is a significant factor in the development of dark circles around the eyes. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10697 [article]

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Direct Determination of Lipid and Water Content of the Hair by Proton NMR Spectrometry / H. Adhoute in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 4 (10-11-12/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 4 (10-11-12/2001) . - p. 287-289 Titre : Direct Determination of Lipid and Water Content of the Hair by Proton NMR Spectrometry Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : H. Adhoute, Auteur ; M. Eugene, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 287-289 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : NMR  Lipid  Water  Hair Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Quantitative determination of the hydrolipid characteristics of hair has an obvious practical value to evaluate the efficacy of a hair treatment. The techniques currently available to analyse these parameters are generally complex and sometimes requiere long sample preparation. We propose a simple and rapid method based on nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectrometry. It consists of placing a small quantity of hair (about 400mg) in an appropriate tube, which is then placed in the spectrometer chamber. The NMR spectrum is obtained in several minutes and the resonaces derived from protons of H2O, CH3 and CH2 groups are analysed. This techni_que was used to evaluate hair regreasing kinetics before and after application of an anti-dandruff shampoo. the results obtained confirm the value of this technique to globally analyse variations of lipid and water content of the hair. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10698 [article]

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Cosmetics and quality of life - Look good, live better / Rosina Pelosi in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 4 (10-11-12/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 4 (10-11-12/2001) . - p. 291-292 Titre : Cosmetics and quality of life - Look good, live better Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Rosina Pelosi, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 291-292 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Psychophysiologie  'Approche  holistique'  'Cosmétiques  proactifs'  'Qualité  de  vie'  'Santé  mentale'  physique' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cosmetics undeniably enhance quality of life. From traditional to contemporary preparations cosmetics science continues to meet the ever-increasing demands of the consumer and the environment. The results of appropriate use of products such as face make-up, depilatory products, shampoos, moisturising soaps, shower gels and deodorants are not only aesthetically pleasing but contribute to psychological health by imparting confidence to the consumer and improving social desirability and acceptability. Environmental factors such as pollution and the disturbing increases in ozone depletion in the strastosphere have encouraged research and innovative formulation. Likewise the consumer push for a more holistic approach to better health means that cosmetic science can contribute to the ethos of human progress, culture, and a better quality of life. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10719 [article]

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